Bruce's Discovery, Tesla's Missing Link for his Unipolar Generator!

[Bruce_TPU]

The inside leads going out should be wound in the same direction as the coils.  I think this would be worthwhile and is an excellent idea.  If there's no radial portions, then you should eliminate the back torque, but you may also eliminate the voltage/current.  This is my only issue at the moment, otherwise your idea is really interesting and has me thinking.

GB

Hi GB,

Winding them in the same direction as the coil shouldn't be too difficult.  I just need some connectors and probably about 11 feet more wire to connect per lead.  It should be interesting.  Eliminating the voltage and current would not be good, though...lol.  But, I think having the black iron oxide between every single coil should help to draw in the field lines.  We just need the wire to break the field lines one time and we have it.  When I picture it in my mind, I can see it doing that... (I hope I'm right!)  If it indeed does, this may actually produce a COP >1.  I think also, that how I end up driving it, will make a huge difference as well.  I have barely begun to work on that.  Thanks GB!!

Good evening ALL,

Coils are dry, and sanded.  And now all five are stacked (picture below) with their leads labeled.  Total thickness of the stack of five coils:  1.25 inches!     Ahh... I love it when a plan comes together!  I place a N42 one inch magnet in front of the stack, for perspective.

Time to begin to wire them up, in series, and to bring out the inner leads, pancake style.

Cheers,

Bruce

[PYRODIN123321]

  thnx for your input folks, there is def some cool things going on with these type motors

[Sprocket]

Great thread, I eagerly look forward to your updates!

As an aside & perhaps some comic-relief to others, I had a play with the concept - my 80mm pancake is made from ribbon cable, the 2 neo mags are 40mm x 5mm N42.  Power is tapped off two bits of copper tube mounted on a plastic shaft - all basically held together by magnet attraction, super-glue & the grace Of God!   If there was any power that is - I get nothing, zero, zip that I can measure on the 300mV scale of my meter!  Oh yeah, the gizmo is spun up by that 12V DC motor hanging precariously from the vice!  The plastic bin-lid is to stop the lot slamming into the metal table legs when vibration shake the thing free from the drill chuck, up around 3000rpm (pics shows it spinning at about 2800rpm)

I guess I should have started with a plain copper disc!  All good fun.

[mscoffman]

Great thread, I eagerly look forward to your updates!

As an aside & perhaps some comic-relief to others, I had a play with the concept - my 80mm pancake is made from ribbon cable, the 2 neo mags are 40mm x 5mm N42.  Power is tapped off two bits of copper tube mounted on a plastic shaft - all basically held together by magnet attraction, super-glue & the grace Of God!   If there was any power that is - I get nothing, zero, zip that I can measure on the 300mV scale of my meter!  Oh yeah, the gizmo is spun up by that 12V DC motor hanging precariously from the vice!  The plastic bin-lid is to stop the lot slamming into the metal table legs when vibration shake the thing free from the drill chuck, up around 3000rpm (pics shows it spinning at about 2800rpm)

I guess I should have started with a plain copper disc!  All good fun.

Three things;
(a) you need a uniform magnetic field covering the whole coil disk.
(b) The brushes need to be on the periphery the coils.
(c) The green wire is crossing the magnetic field to get to the
  outside of the magnet. This is a no-no. It should go up through
  the center of the coil.

If you fix these things and get some iron wire used in fastening
air conduits inside of buildings and insulate it, you might also try
a coil made from that.

:S:MarkSCoffman

[gravityblock]

@Sprocket:

All of your wires need to be on the same side of the magnet and the diameter of your pancake coil is too large as MarkS Coffman suggested.  Reduce the pancake coil to the same diameter as your magnet (The coil can be slightly larger than the magnet, but keep them close to the same size as possible).

You can always use the nickel coating on the neo magnets as a substitute for the copper disc.  Then attach two wire leads to the probe of your voltmeter and measure the voltage between the center and outside edges of the magnet.

I would suggest to first place both wire leads that are attached to your probes at the center of the magnet, then move one of the wire leads slowly to the outside and take note how the voltage increases as you move towards the outside edge of the magnet.  Once your on the outside edge of the magnet, then continue slowly to the other side of the magnet.  Your highest voltage should be at the Block Wall where the poles meet.  As you cross this line to the other side of the magnet, then your voltage will start to decrease (It will decrease towards 0 as you move to the center on the other side of the magnet).

You can easily increase the voltage in a HPG by stacking magnets to create a large cylinder magnet, then extract the current between the center of the magnet and at half the length of the cylinder on the outside edge.

Reverse the direction of rotation and note how the polarity changes.  Once you do these quick and simple tests using just the nickel coating on the magnets, then you will have a good idea on how the pancake coil should be used.  Please keep us updated on your tests and results.  You have a good start.

Thanks, 

GB