Magnet Motor from Argentina, part2

[CLaNZeR]

Hi kukulcangod 

I do not understand what you mean when you as what am I using for the inertial force?

It is probably me being thick again!! 

Glad you like the design though. I need to re-design my web site and section it off because it has now too many pictures on just one page, when I do the Torbay section I will post all the Gcode files(Milling machine format) and dimension files so people can have a go at building it themselves.

Regards

Sean.

Hi All:

Sean the design is so convenient , you can regulate everything,  being see through also lets you see  more accurately how to do so.Is just an exquisit design.

I really hope it works that way , but what are you using for inertial force? what type of flywheel?, I think that is also a critical part, in your design I see that it can be a rised wheel which will allow you to keep seeing the adjustments.

Is definitely a good sign that is running as expected at least by hand, can wait to see results,because with ceramics I'm arranging the magnets like yours ,hopefully this time they will be strong enough to run the flywheel, and also will proof if we have a runner or not.

Thank you for posting your great work , is very inspirational

Good Luck

[attack duck]

 " I am going to cut out some wheels, but would love to find a supplier of small 12-14mm wheels that have a small 3mm bearing"

   Hi Sean, why couldn't you use a non-flanged bearing as a wheel.  This one is very
close with a 1/2" OD and 3/16" ID.  If you really want minimum friction, this one would
do it!  Kinda spendy tho!  Stainless steel/ceramic hybrid.  Could make all the difference
between working and not!

http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=product&id=2854&n=SR3C-2RS_#3

                                          Glenn

[CLaNZeR]

Ouch 16 of those becomes expensive. Also I wanted to stay away from steel bearings as they are close to the magnets.
I have used brass everywhere so far and the only steel in the whole machine is the main center bearing.

I have sourced some 15mm Solid Acrylic Rod that I will chop up for wheels and then lathe some brass rod down to create the bush inserts for the center.
Also I reckon if I say chop the 15mm wheels to say 6mm thick and then lathe them down on the outside to say 2mm will create less friction on the contact point with the top hat.

Thanks for the link though, handy for other things.

Regards

Sean.

Hi Sean, why couldn't you use a non-flanged bearing as a wheel.  This one is very
close with a 1/2" OD and 3/16" ID.  If you really want minimum friction, this one would
do it!  Kinda spendy tho!  Stainless steel/ceramic hybrid.  Could make all the difference
between working and not!

http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=product&id=2854&n=SR3C-2RS_#3

                                          Glenn

[kukulcangod]

I meant the top hat has to be heavy for it to pick up enough momentum to overcome any frictional forces, allowing continuous rotation.

Cheers

[CLaNZeR]

I have setup a link at http://www.overunity.org.uk called Other Torbay Replications and populated the page with photos and movie links from the two Torbay threads in these forums.

If I have placed your images up on the site and you do not want them up there, then please let me know and I will remove, just thought it would be nice to collate the pictures from this huge thread into one place.

Thank Gawd for WIFI in hotel rooms!

Regards

Sean.