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Overunity Machines Forum



Self-Runner NS Coil Pulse Motor Live Video Stream. It's been going for months!

Started by lasersaber, September 01, 2010, 09:59:28 PM

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0 Members and 18 Guests are viewing this topic.

Pirate88179

Quote from: Magneticitist on October 09, 2010, 11:37:52 AM


the explanation of hot air rising with force is even a bunch of BS to me..



That is just a simple example of gravity at work.  The cold air, which is more dense and therefore heavier sinks which displaces the warmer or hot air and forces it up.

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen

Rosemary Ainslie

Hi Iota.  The 'drift' of electrons in a typical electrolytic interaction - is usually associated with the separation or 'joining up' (don't know the technical term) of atoms in a molecule.  There is no 'isolation' of an actual electron to move in it's own preferred direction.  It moves within the atomic structure towards wherever it is that it can compensate for it's own valence imbalance - is how I understand it.  But I'm so much a beginner in this that I really should not comment at all.  And nor would I if we could get some chemist to enlighten us.  Those that I have asked have not given me any kind of answer - and, latterly, I see they don't even post anymore on EF.com.  So I'm stuck.  I wish there was a qualified chemist on this forum who would engage.

Meanwhile - I also need to know if Laser's wire is galvanised with 'zinc'.  I'm not even sure of that.  Laser?  Please, if you read here, could you advise us.  I'd also be very glad if you could give us the diameter of your coil - at first winding - and then, if possible, the number of 'layers'.  Maybe we can find out the resistive values from the length.  I'd like to give it a go.  The hope is to get to some kind of numbers that we can at least roughly estimate the wattage dissipated.  If you've already given us this - then apologies for asking for it again.  If anyone has picked up on these values, please post them.  Or just point me to where I should be able to find this.

Kindest regards,
Rosemary

IotaYodi

QuoteI only built 2 of them and only one had 2 layers of windings, the first one was a single layer.  None of them had a secondary.  I never got that far. Sorry for my bad memory.
Your memory has to be better than mine. lol!
I guess its safe to say the bulk of power is in your mag block and carbon rod.

QuoteMeanwhile - I also need to know if Laser's wire is galvanised with 'zinc'.
If he said galvanized Im quite sure its zinc. Im curious on the iron carbon content which he probably doesnt know. Ive never seen those specs on galvanized wire for fencing.
What I know I know!
Its what I don't know that's a problem!

Pirate88179

Iota:

I don't know what Lasersaber did but when I went shopping for wire I took a neo mag. with me.  I tried many types of "iron" wire and settled on a non-galvanized wire that was really attracted to the neo.  I did the same with my core.  As it turned out, a galvanized spike had very great attraction to the mag. way more than any other type of rebar or anything else I could find.  So, that is what I used on both coils.

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen

IotaYodi

QuoteAs it turned out, a galvanized spike had very great attraction to the mag. way more than any other type of rebar or anything else I could find.  So, that is what I used on both coils.
Thanks Bill! From previous research on rebar I found its mainly made from scraps and has a higher carbon content thats probably not suited for electromagnets. There are different grades but Ive seen it stated the chemistry is not uniform also. 1018 steel is still the cheapest lower carbon high iron Ive found. I still believe this is what NS had in his bolt.
You can check the remanence of your spike or other metal by holding it close to a monitor. You dont really have to put it directly on. Even with a magnet Ive tried on my old monitor it creates a pattern that stayed. When I turn the monitor off and back on its gone. This is a regular crt and not lcd. All you need to do is put a magnet on the metal then take it off and check it. To de-polarize use the opposite pole of the magnet and put it on about the same amount of time as you did the original pole. Ive taken laminated electrical steel cores from motors and there is no remanence at all. Impressive stuff. 
What I know I know!
Its what I don't know that's a problem!