Captret - Capacitor and Electret

[ibpointless2]

I've been playing with types of liquids in the water captret.I've added salt to one and the cell lost most of its voltage and soon died. I've added baking soda to one and it did increase the voltage, I'm leaving that cell shorted out to see if the plates get destroyed like they do in aluminum battery. So far the baking soda added to the water has not affected the water captret in any negative way, it still produces good voltage even when shorted out for a long period of time. The plates still look good and besides a lot more bubbles the water captret with baking soda seems to be working fine.

i've also tried car 50/50 antifreeze since it has the same stuff as regular capacitors have. With antifreeze it doesn't make a good battery, but makes a great capacitor. Simple by using antifreeze instead of water with the water captret makes it into a capacitor. And since i can make capacitors i can now make captrets, and i can add as many captret layers as i want each producing there own voltage.

This goes to also prove that i was right in assuming that all capacitors are batteries, its the liquid that they hold between the plates that makes them capacitors first and batteries last, but switching that liquid can make it battery first and capacitor last. Since the capacitor itself is a battery this could explain the self charging we see on captret circuits.

[shylo]

Hi Ib been reading lots here ,I tried to duplicate your cell alu foil on the  outside of water bottle, alu foil on the inside, around the circumference ,filled with tap water,  and a central post "alu" submerged in the water. It read nothing on my meter. This was posted back a few pages but maybe I did something wrong.Would it be too much to ask for a detailed drawing of the design, I can't watch videos ,half the time these pages won't even load..........thanx for any input ...shylo 

[ibpointless2]

Hi Ib been reading lots here ,I tried to duplicate your cell alu foil on the  outside of water bottle, alu foil on the inside, around the circumference ,filled with tap water,  and a central post "alu" submerged in the water. It read nothing on my meter. This was posted back a few pages but maybe I did something wrong.Would it be too much to ask for a detailed drawing of the design, I can't watch videos ,half the time these pages won't even load..........thanx for any input ...shylo

How about a how to video?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDusf5sjb2M
This video is the updated version 2.0, i believe the one you're talking about is the old one. The new one is much simpler.

[ibpointless2]

I was checking on one of the water captret batteries that i have shorted out for over a week now and notice somethings are different. The plates have not disappeared or been damage, quite the opposite the negative plate has expanded full of water. Quite a bit of water is missing too. I don't know if the water is evaporating or if the water is being consumed but ill test it by placing plastic wrap over the top of the cup. If water vapors start appearing on the plastic then i know its evaporating but if none do and the water level goes down then we are consuming the water.

And after been shorted out for over a week it still produces voltage, actual more than the new ones. New ones are around .150 volts and this shorted out one is around .260 volts.

[ibpointless2]

I’ve spent most of the day trying to get the water captret to output more voltage from one cup. I’m still baffled at what I’m getting.

So far what I know is…

Usually the thin plate is positive plate and the thick one is negative plate.
From what I’m seeing Plate size doesn’t affect voltage but the bigger the plate the more amps.
The only thing that comes close to raising the voltage is having one plate, the big thin one, fully in the water and the small thick one barely touching the water.  But this is not linear. What I mean by that is if I have both plates completely in the water and I start to slowly raise the small thick one it won’t slowly raises in voltage. It will go up and down and when you get to the end where not much is sticking in the water the voltage will go up. So if the small thick one is half in doesn’t mean that it’s producing half if it was barely touching the water, it either produces a lot less or sometime a lot more than what the barely touching the water gives. It is this random voltages that baffle me; I can’t find the best way of doing this to get the best voltage out.

One thing I noticed about the plates that are in the water is that they’re holding water. When I squeeze the water out of them they start giving more voltage until they fill back up again. The big thin on is not affected by this but the little thick one that is folded with many flaps holds quite a bit of water and squeezing the water out gives the cup more voltage but as soon as the plate fills back up it returns to normal. It’s like the water is attracted to that one plate.
When I replace one plate with a new never been used plate the voltage will go up but slowly go down to about normal voltage of one cup. Removing that one plate and flipping it will sometime raise the voltage and sometime drop it. Once again it creates what seems to be random voltages.

Since Plate sizes and mass of the plates were really no help I started to play with different liquids.
My control â€" Regular water gives me about 140mV
Vinegar and corn syrup is about 20mV
Olive oil and car antifreeze is about 0 to 10mV
Sugar water was about 100mV
Baking soda was about 60mV
Water placed in the sunlight was about 130mV
Boiling water was about 33mV
Boiling water left to cool to room temperature was about 120mV

I’m quite flustered that I can’t seem to find a way to get a better output voltage of one cup. The only proven way I’ve seen voltage and power increase was in the big water captret hook in series and given a load, and with that load voltage increased and so did power.
So knowing all this I tried to make smaller ones. It seemed that all I need was aluminum plates to be touching water and it would seem that but that’s not true. I’ve tried separating two plates with a paper towel that was soaked in water, and for some reason didn’t perform as well as two plates sitting in water. For some reason the big bulky current design works best. Having the plates sit in the water of the plastic cup gives the best voltage.

To sum it all up…

-Bigger plate size means more amps and the thickness determines it polarity in most cases.
- The Plate size, mass, layers don’t give a good way of determining if you’re increasing the voltage or decreasing it.
-Nothing physical is giving me any clue as to it increasing the voltage.
-Moving the plates up and down doesn’t give a linear power produced. Moving the plates up will increase the voltage but at certain spots also decrease it too. For the best voltage out put it best to have the little thick plate barely touching the water, but even this can decrease voltage in some plates.
-It’s like the plates have a mind of their own.
-You can’t layer the plate between paper towels in hope to making a more compact design to output more voltage in a compact way. The plates seem like they need to be surrounded by the water.
-Water seems to work best out of baking soda, sugar water, vinegar, cooking oils, and car antifreeze.
-The plates fill up with water and squeezing the water out will give better voltage until the plates fill back up.
-And the only way I see power or voltage increasing is letting the cup sit shorted out or given a load for few days.  After a few days the plates may be full of water but still produce over the normal voltage.
-Also I would like to add that one of the cups that have been sitting shorted out for over a week has lost quite a bit of water. I don’t know if it evaporated or if the water is being consumed, or even if it’s being used to fill up the plates.