Pulsed Electro Magnetic Hydro Electro Lytic Pump and System Architecture

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Pulsed Electro Magnetic Hydro Electro Lytic Pump : PEMHELP

Pulsed Electro Magnetic Hydro Electro Lytic System : PEMHELS

(Press CTRL (-) to zoom out, and CTRL (+) to zoom back in)

The image of the Disc stack shows the electrical connections and the insulating spacers.

All connections are made through the insulated secondary shaft, with connections placed at 180 degrees to each other.

2 connections for DC+
2 connections for DC-
2 connections for Negative Plate Pulsing (DC+)

DC+ and Negative Plate Connection needs to travel out to the edge of the disc and parallel to the shaft.

DC- connection can just be made along the line of the conductors in the Secondary Shaft.

The Capacitor Bank was for Pulsing individual coils with each coil having its own Capacitor and Slip Ring and Timing.

The coils would Polarise a Neodymium Ring Magnet on an Oilite Bearing and create Electro Magnetic Pulsed Polarisation within the Cell.

The Relay Contactor in this system replaces the Capacitor Bank for Negative Plate Pulsing.

The Relay Contactor is wired to DC+ only in Parallel and diverts a burst of electricity and polarises the Pulsed Negative Plate to DC+.

This drains the DC+ Plate causing it to Pulse also.

The DC- Plate is always on and should stay stable.

The DC+ Plate is always on but fluctuates.

The Negative Plates are turned on and off.

A Resonating Cell is created.

The Relay contactor system only requires one slip ring as both Pulsed Negative Plates are Pulsed DC+.

The Magnetic Timing Ring controls the Relay Contactor and the Diversion Load Duration.

The Maximum possible system Amperage and Voltage depends on Relay Contactor Specification and Electrolyte Heating.

Amperage and Voltage for Cell Pulsing is set by PMA Speed and PMA Specification.

The entire system is controlled by Input Voltage to the DC Motor and Magnetic Phase Angle Timing.

This is only two of the possibilities for Pulsing this Cell. There are many others

Rob Mason

P.S. A good place for people who like magnets:

https://www.hkcm.de/?hkcm=engineering&mwst=on&prof=off&dna=home&des=&osCsid=50ee68d843b8f326dbacab5c99f52cfd

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Correction to Image:

The DC- Line should not have been included to the Relay Contactor circuit as the DC- is hard wired through the DC- Current Slip Ring direct from PMA. The DC+ is also hard wired to the DC+ Current Slip Ring. The DC+ Relay Contactor is a timed power take off wired in Parallel. Similar to a SPDT Switch (Single Pole Double Throw) with phase angle timed switching.

RM

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HELP Device construction tips:

The HELP can be constructed in a similar way to a Dry Cell.

The central circular housing could be a piece of plastic tube such as:

http://www.theplasticshop.co.uk/polycarbonate-tube-40mm-od-to-250mm-od-3569-0.html

Max size is 250mm diameter which should be big enough to make an efficient pump. You could use acrylic for this as it is cheaper, available in larger OD, and will be reinforced with polyurethane casting resin.

Two side plates with holes placed around the edges to accept bolts. These bolts would need to have accurate spacing tubes sheathed around them. The centre of the two plates would have holes cut to accept and mount the secondary shaft seals.

The seal between the circular housing and the side plates could be as simple as an O ring which you can buy off the shelf to match the circular housing dimensions. They are about £30 GBP each at 250mm diameter so it may be cheaper to cut your own from a sheet of gasket material with a scalpel using the circular housing as a template.

Once the housing has been assembled as described and torqued to compress the housing seal, side plates are fitted along the square edges to enclose the space. Polyurethane fast cast resin can be used to pour into the chamber and will set holding the central housing permanently in position and reinforcing the structure. It will also create a permanent mount for the circular housing seals.

This is the resin I have always used:

http://www.tomps.com/shop/polyurethane-fast-cast-resin-p-129.html?osCsid=2ip47k15isl9ghp3h07c7449u2

The slow version is better for this as the thickness requires keeping exotherm to a minimum. Polyurethane is good to 70C but if you require a higher operating temp then ATH Aluminium Tri-Hydrate could be added as a filler which would increase the temp of the resin to 80C.

http://www.tomps.com/shop/ath-aluminium-trihydrate-p-263.html

The secondary shaft can be made using a length of polycarbonate tube with the OD equal to the housing seal ID. There must be a gap between the secondary shaft ID and the primary shaft OD to accomodate the threaded rod conductors.

The primary shaft will need its own insulating sheath that is interference fit or slide fit and then loctite in position. This is what the slip rings are mounted on.

The slip rings can be laser cut out of PB2 Phosphor Bronze plate. The parts that conduct with a threaded rod bolted to the ring are what will slide fit around the primary shaft insulating sheath. Cut-outs in the slip rings will allow the conducting rods from the opposite polarity slip ring to pass through. Both rings can be identical and mounted out of phase.

When constructed the gap between the secondary and primary shaft can be filled with fast cast resin, or alternatively RTV heat resistant silicone. Fast cast will probably be ok as I expect the temp to stay down as 2V 20A will probably be a good power rating for this cell.

The DC500 PMA when spun slow enough (200 RPM ish) will generate a low voltage and relatively high amperage, in the region of 2V 20A. This will require a reduction pulley ratio from the DC motor. The pump will need to spin at 2000 RPM or faster to generate efficient pumping of the fluid and the pressure we require.

The DC motor can probably be fitted direct drive to the pump at 1800RPM or 3600RPM depending on the motor you choose but it must be high torque to drive both the pump and the alternator with a substantial pulley reduction.

You may be able to find a better alternator that will produce 2V 20A at a higher RPM and make less pulley ratio reductions.

If you use off the shelf hubs they do not have holes to accomodate direct inline connection from the threaded rod at the slip rings to the disc stack. An earthing brade could be used to complete the circuit from the threaded rod conductor inner mounts to the disc stack outside the hub dimensions. This is not ideal but will work. If you have the ability to machine your own hubs then an insulated connection could be machined straight through inside the load bearing hub mounting holes.

The discs are mounted on a hub and taper bush:

http://www.technobotsonline.com/shafts-and-adaptors/taper-bushes-and-hubs/1210-taper-bushes.html

http://www.technobotsonline.com/shafts-and-adaptors/taper-bushes-and-hubs/bf-bolt-on-hubs.html

As the primary shaft is completely insulated from the circuit the hubs can be directly mounted to the shaft via the taper bush to grip and the keyway to transmit drive.

An insulating disc is laser cut from plastic to provide solid mounting in compression between the disc stack and the end hubs.

The discs are laser cut with a gap between disc edge and circular housing of 1-1.5mm, the six hub mounting holes being over sized to accomodate a slide fit plastic insulator sheath. The center hole of the discs is over sized so as to isolate from the primary shaft with a slide fit plastic spacer over the shaft. The fluid  inlet ports are standard Tesla design. All conducting holes are slide fit to transmit or oversized to isolate with a plastic spacer tube.

Plastic spacers can be found here:

http://www.nylonalloys.co.uk/

Magnetic timing can be accomplished with a magnet and a hall effect sensor controlling the Relay Contactor. Alternatively an opto-interruptor with a timing disc may be an easier way to prototype a timing circuit, as the signal is controlled by a phase angle cut out of the disc. Discs could be accurately cut and swapped quite easily, altering the pulse duration.

316L is recommended exclusively for this design. All conducting bolts, lock nuts, discs and primary shaft because of corrosion.

I will try and hand draw a custom slip ring when I have the time for those of you not sure what I am describing.

I appreciate all of the sites I have linked to for components are UK based but I am just trying to give you an idea of how to construct a HELP quickly and efficiently for minimal $. Shop around in your own countries

Hopefully this will be of some help to you all...

Rob Mason