Hi Everyone,
I have put together a section view of the Everyman HHO Cell for you.
The basic premise of this cell is that it is built entirely from off the shelf components, and the small amount of work required from you can be accomplished in minutes with basic hand tools. You can assemble one in 15 minutes once you get the hang of it.
This cell has not been built or tested, I had just enough parts lying around to work out what was needed. This is not designed to be the most efficient cell around, it is designed to be achievable by anyone.
It uses a mixture of plastic and 316 parts and other commonly available materials. You will normally be buying the parts in multiples in quantity's more than you need because of the nature of the components. This will mean you can be self sufficient for years with very little relative cash outlay.
Once built and tested you will know its Amp draw at a certain electrolyte level, and then you can link the individual cells in series to control the voltage across the gaps.
If your going to mount it in the engine bay then you want polypropylene for its high temperature capability, if your going to mount it in the back then nylon should be ok and cheaper.
The electrical connections are made by jubilee clips to the outside and then you can slip a spade connector over the tail of the clip.
Once assembled the entire cell can be covered in heat shrink tubing, just be careful not to melt the plastic fittings.
Loctite or Boiler Sealant is used on the threads to seal. Careful not to use permanent Loctite if you want to be able to reuse the plastic components.
I have put up a view of the neutral tube to the side to show the vertical hacksaw cut that must be made to ensure that there is a path for the HHO around the O-rings. This is essential. The neutral tube is slid into place inside the outer tubes and held in place by the O-rings, I have tried this and it works really well.
Hydraulic tube clamps are perfect for mounting, just be careful you get the right size because ¾ pipe is not ¾ inch OD. Check ZX55 specifications as they list the actual pipe OD and get a tube clamp to match.
The reservoir and bubbler are formed by the Riser and the hose tail is the hose connection point, this also acts as the pressure release valve in case of a flashback. Multiple cells can be connected to a single HHO feed via Y or Cross hose tail connectors.
You can add a dedicated bubbler to the system if you want.
The barrel nipples can be got in up to 6 inch lengths in Schedule 40, normally only 3 inch in Schedule 80. If you buy the pipe you get 6 metres and can cut your own nipples to custom length using a hand die. Here is a really good vice at a really good price:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cmv140-multi-purpose-cast-iron-vice
Here are some links:
http://www.pipestock.com/pp-threaded-fittings/
http://www.airlines-pneumatics.co.uk/webcat/search.asp?searchwords=hose+tail&Submit=Go
http://www.zx55.com/shopexd.asp?id=2200
http://www.zx55.com/shopexd.asp?id=4612
http://www.zx55.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?tc=Y&id=6&cat=Pipes&app=Stainless%20Steel%20Pipe%20-%20Seamless%20S80S
http://www.allorings.com/material_selection.htm
http://www.nylonalloys.co.uk/
http://www.inox.ie/acatalog/HoseClamps.html
http://www.inox.ie/acatalog/Penny_Washers.html
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0727705
You guys are going to have to run with this if you like it, it is not something I am currently working on. Hope that helps :)
RM :)
Looks good i will check the link you provided tomorow
Thanks for the info i like the design!
How the HHO exit the tube if ring/nut block the exit (inner tube)? from your drawing the exit seam blocked, not from the outside pipe but more from the inner and in between
So pipe is submerged in water the way you see it?
Hi TheOne,
The washer has slots cut into the edge, the same principle as the neutral tube. This allows the HHO and electrolyte solution to circulate. Apologies, I forgot to mention it before.
This is a dry cell design with the liquid locked inside the device, the interior of the cell is the reservoir, and the non conducting tube above is the bubbler. The electrolyte is filled to an inch or so below the hose connector at the top.
RM :)
Make sence..
I have other question, the outside pide if not used for hho we dont lose some effiency i think we can have some hho from the outside from the same cost of energy also how the cell get filled with water from a reservoir
Sorry for the question hehe
No worries about the questions...
Yes your right if there was liquid on the outside of the stainless pipe then yes you would produce more Hydrogen, however this would require an extra housing to contain the liquid and complicates the design.
With the cell in its current form it is very easy to mount with non conducting tube clamps. Also I needed access to the outside of the cell to make the electrical connection using jubilee clips.
The other point I should mention is that the number of neutral tubes is very easy to change by your selection of pipes used. Study ZX55 as on every page for each pipe it gives the dimensions of the pipe specification, the ID, the OD, and the wall thickness. Your lucky that they list this information now, when I worked all this out years back it was not there and I had to calculate it all manually. Use the resource it is very valuable!
Always aim to have the outermost pipe with a thicker wall thickness, this will ensure you always maintain structural integrity of the system. The neutral tubes, being thinner, will disappear first indicating it is time to replace the corroded parts of the cell.
The reservoir is the cell itself, you simply connect a tube to the hose connector and fill the cell using a funnel and a measured amount of liquid, pre mixed with electrolyte.
If I get the time I will try and work out for you what pipes will give the best system using 1.5mm section O-rings.
RM :)