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Everyone wants a complete parts list and everyone seems to have problems sourcing one part or another so the goal here is to complete a parts listing with the RomeroUK-Dynamo parts list.

Yes it is bare right now I need to go thread fishing to fill what is already known but any addons will be accepted so long as they are RomeroUK-Dynamo not the Muller version.

Lets leave Muller and his design out if this discussion we already know whom is accredited for the original design I think the addition of his name and design will only add more confusion.

Here is the list I have compiled.

Please maintain the same format while updating.

Download the .txt document edit it then reupload it here!

Thanks for making this Thread,
RomeroUk:  could you please list the semiconductors involved and IC s if any
Thank you v much

Parts I have ordered so far for the new build.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280544165606&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROUND-BRIGHT-MILD-STEEL-BAR-30mm-DIA-x-500mm-LONG-EN1A-/160559436733?_trksid=p5197.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%252BDDSIC%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D200483819019%252B270303908644%252B280671794575%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D9015277603306153476
I got it 30mm diameter so I can put it on my lathe and cut it to make sure it fits perfect on the bearings and SPROCKET CARRIERS.

https://www.hkcm.de/product_info.php?hkcm=engineering&products_id=7381&mwst=on&des=off&dna=0&fav=&adia0=&idia0=&hig0=&amass=&bmass=&hig1=&arad=&irad=&hig2=&wink=
I bought 16 and I will have them 2 togheter to make the same 8 in total.

Bearings I already have

http://www.plasticonline.co.uk/acrylic-sheets-discs/acrylic-discs/black-acrylic-discs/10mm-black/10mm-black-acrylic-disc-300mm-dia-/prod_274.html?notice=1
I bought 3 so I can glue them together to make 3cm thick.

Mosfets are going to be used now, not sure what type yet. I have about 50 irfz44 but that is the last to worry.
Mosfets drivers - I have about 8 TC4422

Cores and coils are going to be built here. Not ordered yet but I bought parts here before.
http://www.falconacoustics.co.uk/audio-inductors-ferrite-air-core-iron-dust.html

people can also buy existing stock coils just to use the core

More to come...

I guess my point is in order to replicate something we must have full out specifics on the said thing we are replicating.

Otherwise we will have a variation and not a replication.

The light is the only thing that I can see which is not important in this device and the threaded rod should not matter either.

But the size and types of bearings are needed.

Other specifics are needed as well but I thank you for all of the info so far it has been in depth but is missing some key things.

I live in the US actually so sourcing parts here will be a bit different then the UK probably cheaper too.

Why try to replicate something we don't know works yet? It don't make since to me we are trying to replicate the already working device.

We need the information you sent to your local laser cutters the prints or whatever it was that you gave them so that we can replicate all the acrylic parts that you had milled !

The pictures are nice and fancy and so forth but without precise prints or measurements it will not be a replication. We need all of this information. Every last bit of info down to a T in order to replicate something we have to be very concise this is a precision machine there is very little tolerances if any you have said it yourself.

Quote from: infringer on May 08, 2011, 07:34:03 PM
OK so we need to wait then for your new build to take place?

No way, don't need to wait but people can decide if they want a small or a large version

I will stop asking you questions for a while let me try to sort some more out in time.

I am trying to compile the list of parts and where to buy them.

For the already working device once I have a working device and I am able to prove to myself it works
I will be attempting to upscale as I said I do have stuff to scale this thing up ;)

The video is very convincing but if this is intended to be replicated then some additional information is required.
I have been looking around to find some type of description of operation and possibly a schematic but there seems to be nothing.
This leaves way to many missing details for any replication. It's obvious there is some timing circuit and a DC to DC up converter but no description of how it it used or why.
Can someone draw a schematic and give a theory of operation and how it achieves OU?

This has kind of already been done somewhat but missing a lot of information...

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=469

This was the attempt to explain away and give proper sizes and schematics of stuff.

Thanks Infringer, I now have the concept much clearer.

I'm thinking that Romero later in the main thread changed that he was using 1N4001 diodes rather than 1N4007.  I'll see if I can find it but in the mean time you might want to check or put a question mark on that item in the list.  I also think Schottky diodes would be a much better choice but am waiting on some opinions from the guru's in the main thread as to an exact item number and if they think this change could have any negative effects on the setup. 

Hi infringer, Romero  and ALL

Thank you very much for all the extra details and your sincere efforts, its great we have got  trusted engineers like Rod and Ron on it immediately to report before some one can come in and claim a hidden battery in the black case etc and distract. This will be very interesting my friend will work with Rod and see if we can produce the same effect.

Ash

Hello to all,   Starting a new job this week and will begin helping with making any design drawings and Plotfiles so we can replicate this.   Defining the theory is hugely important in that this research is fine tuned later after others replicate Romero's working device.   This is not science fiction but indeed science following physics that have yet to determined to the project group forming.   Island life changes has set me back for over 4 months now and the daily struggle is improving some what, therefore I will make a build on this when we correlate all the proven parts and materials lists.   I am more than happy with the progress many have made in working devices.   Way to go!, your hard work shows admirable results and I congratulate you all.  ;)

Hi All,
I had another look at what ferrite rods
are offered on Ebay.

The most availabke ferrite rods on Ebay are
the types from AM radios like
8 mm or 10 mm in diameter.

But they are much too long.

Is there any easy method to cut them to a wished length
without destroying them ?

COuld this be done with a glas cutter or a pipe cutter tool
or better using some kind of saw ?

If a saw works, what kind of saw would be best ?


Here is again the link to the cheapest Ferrite rods on Ebay:

When I make SMPS, the ferrite cores for the transformers are often not available with the air gap I need, Often air gap = 0 is the only option.

I tried several things, but the only thing that works for me to create the desired air gap without destroying the core, is to use diamond cutting wheels.

I have got a set with 6 wheels for a Drehmel type mini "drill" diameter 20 mm, width 0.55mm for less than 20$. These work well in the ceramic ferrite material, and can quite easily cut the ferrite to obtain the air gap I need.

Using larger machinery is problematic, because the most accessible (and affordable) hobby tools are not sufficiently balanced, so the big and heavy diamond cutters "hammers" the ferrite so it cracks.

Just my 2 cents.

Eric

Quote from: hartiberlin on May 12, 2011, 05:43:11 PM
Hi All,
I had another look at what ferrite rods
are offered on Ebay.

The most availabke ferrite rods on Ebay are
the types from AM radios like
8 mm or 10 mm in diameter.

But they are much too long.

Is there any easy method to cut them to a wished length
without destroying them ?

COuld this be done with a glas cutter or a pipe cutter tool
or better using some kind of saw ?

If a saw works, what kind of saw would be best ?

Clanzer uses what looks like a Dremel Saw in this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZoRd8MV5qI

maybe I'll try to make the coils rods in this way:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4NBR0cl0b8

http://cgi.ebay.com/5-lb-Black-Iron-Oxide-Fe3O4-Used-Thermite-/280351919842?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item414646cee2

http://cgi.ebay.com/Great-Planes-Pro-Epoxy-Finishing-Resin-9-oz-GPMR6049-/360353787875?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e6c26fe3

Peter Lindemann's quote:

QuoteThis method was developed by the late Bill Muller for his motors. Make a frame or mold of the exact size of magnetite core you wish to cast, and line it with a material that will allow you to get the core out after it sets up. Make sure the end plates are made of .125 inch plastic sheet. Mix your magnetite with a slow curing, high temperature resin. Mix as much magnetite into the resin as possible while it is still malleable. Fill the mold and place the end plates on each end, and then place a strong, NEO magnet on EACH SIDE of the mold. The NEO magnets should be at least as large as the magnetite core you are making, and should face each other in the attraction mode, so that all of the particles of magnetite line up, and TOUCH EACH OTHER as the resin sets. This also aligns the magnetic domains in the iron so they are all parallel in the finished core.

Any other method yields very poor results.

When the resin is set (24 hours), the magnetite disc should be able to magnetize up to at least 2500 Gauss and operate with a very narrow hysteresis curve. It will be a complete "non-conductor" so "eddy-currents" will be very low.

Bill Muller used these cores in his motors as a cheap substitute for Metglas Cores. They have many of the same high-speed switching characteristics, but their magnetic permeability is much lower.

That is it. No more questions. Good luck.

Peter

Quote from: tysb3 on May 18, 2011, 12:59:15 PM
maybe I'll try to make the coils rods in this way:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4NBR0cl0b8

Looks like Metglas offers free samples. Might be worth trying it out. :)

http://www.metglas.com/products/page5_1_2.htm (http://www.metglas.com/products/page5_1_2.htm)

Aphasiac. 

Quote from: Aphasiac on May 18, 2011, 06:24:07 PM
Looks like Metglas offers free samples. Might be worth trying it out. :)

http://www.metglas.com/products/page5_1_2.htm (http://www.metglas.com/products/page5_1_2.htm)

Aphasiac.

if I understand, they distribute product not in the shape but in the weight. you need to heave tools for shaping the rods

Quote from: tysb3 on May 18, 2011, 12:59:15 PM
maybe I'll try to make the coils rods in this way:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4NBR0cl0b8

http://cgi.ebay.com/5-lb-Black-Iron-Oxide-Fe3O4-Used-Thermite-/280351919842?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item414646cee2

http://cgi.ebay.com/Great-Planes-Pro-Epoxy-Finishing-Resin-9-oz-GPMR6049-/360353787875?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e6c26fe3

Peter Lindemann's quote:

What would the affect bismuth would have as a core or maybe something to help? you can levitate things with it and magnets....

Hi,

Does anyone knows what is a small magnet used on the side of rotor?
Diameter, lenght, grade, ..

and where to buy cores with fast shipment in EU?

Thank you for yours answer in advance.

I suggest that the driving part adopts the H bridge structure more convenient.

Parts list file format is the best form of EXCEL.