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The Lynx Joule Motor/Generator is designed to run, do work, put out more voltage than it consumes, and be able to charge back to its own battery.  (It doesn't create free energy)  I have just started experimenting with this circuit, and am finding some interesting things that it does.
Timing is a whole area to explore.  I am sure as I play with this I will get the thumping sound out of it.  Right now the bearings are wood which wont last long.
I toyed with not using a commutator to switch on the transistor.  I tried LED to LED reciever and a LED to LDR.  They both sort of worked but would have needed to be amplified and they consume 40-50 ma.  Both light sensor circuits barely turned on the transistor.

The Joule Motor concept is similar to a Joule Thief in that it utilizes the flyback to do something useful.  In this case a second coil is given a burst of energy right near BDC.  On the second half of the rotation the magnets spin past the coils inducing a current.  This motor will generate disconnected and just had turned.  I haven't even figured out what the timing of the voltages and currents are in relation to the power pulses.

Unfortunately this isn't a super easy thing to make.  But you can pretty much see the basics.  Getting a commutator and brushes right was the most time consuming part.  By now you have figured out I like aircore coils.  There is no cogging in alternators and motors, and no losses to heat in the iron core.  There is no reason this wouldn't work even better with Neo magnets.  Neos are self defeating with a Bedini motor , but with this motor it would be a benefit.

I don't expect anyone to rush out and replicate this.  I would like your thoughts on what the interaction between the power cycle and generator cycle might be, and how it could be optimized. 

My thinking has been that if Over Unity is possible it will need to come from a borrowed external source of energy into the system.  That is one reason why I have been playing with Joule Thief circuits, Magnets, Bedini Motors, and now this Lynx Joule Motor/Generator.  This is the first DC motor I have seen that puts out more voltage than it takes for a given rpm.  Classic Joule Thief stuff that keeps us interested.

I will upload a video tonight.  http://youtu.be/1gWZchP8-Hk (http://youtu.be/1gWZchP8-Hk)

QuoteThis is the first DC motor I have seen that puts out more voltage than it takes for a given rpm.

How are you measuring? Do you use an oscilloscope?

You can make excellent self-lubricating wooden bearings out of a wood known as "lignum vitae" which you can sometimes find as scraps in hardwood lumber stores (flooring, etc.) It's so dense that it doesn't even float in water.

Nice work.
This reminds me of the window motor from a few years back.


But this needs to put out more average voltage and current than it uses to be useful.


Do you see an increase in battery terminal voltage?
Can it be run for a long duration?  If so you could check the capacity of the 9v battery with a battery analyser.
example: Ripmax Peak Prodigy pro.


Some small non-sealed ceramic bearings would help, the type used in RC models for the gearboxes/bel housing.

Team,

No! drive battery voltage does not increase as the motor runs, nor does output amperage exceed input.  I know with some fine tuning the timing can be optimized.  The nice thing, compared to the Bedini motor/charger, is that with load the power doesn't drop, meaning this motor has torque to do work and still the output voltage remains higher than input.  It will run for quite a while on the 9 volt, but I haven't been scientific.

I don't have an oscilloscope.  I can pretty much guess what is happening and I can hear it.  The only thing I haven't studied very well, is what is taking place on a coil leg that is being fluxed by a passing magnet while the coil is energized.  Is the induced voltage additive or subtractive? 

The generated output is there even without the AC through the rectifier.  So evidently the zener diode is allowing positive current to flow back through the coils to the battery positive.

I ordered some axially magnetized Neo magnets which will allow me to bring the coils very close.  The cylinder shaped magnets have a 1/4" ID hole that I can use for a shaft and then use proper bearings.  The commutator will be a brass eccentric (adjustable).  The brush will be a single spring steel wire (adjustable dwell angle) and the shaft will complete the circuit for triggering the transistor.

I will just take this as far as it goes and see if the motor can be made to be hyper efficient.  Its kind of silly to take 9-12 volts and charge a 9-12 volt battery.  But if ever there was a way to get close to Unity this is the route I would take.  Borrowing some energy from a magnet.

Reed switches, mechanical commutators... will cause problems sooner or later. Some people believe that the noise and jitter of mechanical switching systems is necessary for the effect they are seeking. I don't. Mechanical systems will always freeze up, short out, become unreliable and noisy. There is an incredible amount of engineering effort in the mechanical commutation of a simple DC hobby motor, for example, and they still wear out and need capacitors to lessen wear-increasing arcing at the commutator.

You can trigger your 3055 with an inductive pickup coil wound into your motor coils, or next to them, or, my preferred method, a good Hall effect sensor switch that gives a clean sharp TTL pulse transition for its output. You can get these from Allegro Microsystems (digikey) for a couple of dollars and they are well worth it, for the trouble they eliminate when used right. A simple mounting arrangement and you have full control of timing and dwell, without the jitter, unreliability and lack of repeatability of an improvised mechanical commutation system.

However, if you feel that the mechanical system is necessary for your desired effect, a good reed switch, properly protected from arcing, placed in the right spot, will fire your transistor and will be better than a brush-commutator system or a cam-interrupt system.

A mechanical means of activating the transistor was my last choice.  Since this was a weekend project and using scraps I was limited.  Also, I didn't know exactly what the timing needed to be.

I am not sure a trigger coil within the main coil will be precise enough.  The transistor needs to switch on and off at a precise point in rotation.
Also there is a lot of stray magnetism so my efforts with a magnetic pickup were foiled.

The main coil needs to fire just after TDC and can remain on or be pulsed for part or most of the rest of the rotation to BDC.  The timing of turning off the transistor dictates when the flyback will occur. The flyback coil can be timed as an attraction force just before BDC, or a repelling force just after BDC.  This is responsible for the "sound" you hear in the video.  The flyback is like a kick.

Now, this is the part I haven't studied enough:  When the flyback coil fires current will flow in the coil.  At that very moment the magnets are inducing a current to flow in both coils.  It would be best that this flyback current direction is the same as the induced current.  Since we can orient and time the flyback either way we should pick the best setup.

I am only so good with the left hand rule.  And since this is an aircore the coil legs are fluxed as the magnet passes the leg, not the center.  So actually there are eight AC generator pulses per rotation if it isn't being powered by DC.  When powered there are maybe only 7 AC generated pulses.

Hi Lynxsteam and  Ou dot Com People,

I agree with MeggerMan: this looks like a Bedini/Cole Window motor.
This 'Lynx Joule Motor' sounds like a simplified one.

BTW: IMO, simplifying thing is more complicated that making it more complex as
it needs more creativity. Is it not?
I would bet that, with some modifications, this 'Lynx Joule Motor' might be able to
run on cap only...

--------------------------
About the Window motor:
A guy named 'Mike' had build such a modified motor and claimed to run it on capacitor only.
http://peswiki.com/index.php/OS:Modified_Bedini_Cole_Window_Motor (http://peswiki.com/index.php/OS:Modified_Bedini_Cole_Window_Motor)

I replicated this device as accurately as possible.
I even used this 'Crouzet Relay'.
http://freenrg.info/Window_Motor/Crouzet-Relay.jpg (http://freenrg.info/Window_Motor/Crouzet-Relay.jpg)
This motor has a bifilar coil and another 'monofilar' one:
http://freenrg.info/Window_Motor/L1-L2_L3_Coils.jpg (http://freenrg.info/Window_Motor/L1-L2_L3_Coils.jpg)

It worked very well but with a battery!
Anyway, while 'chopping' this battery with a Reed Relay I was able to
run my motor without (apparently depleting the battery) and this
without any 'intentional' circuitry.... Go figure... :o
 
You might consult my very shambolic web folder:
http://freenrg.info/Window_Motor/

At this time, my "'replicative' motivations" were huge.
Now, I'm a little bit  fed up. :-[

Very Best from Brest,
Yann

Lynxsteam: 

QuoteI will just take this as far as it goes and see if the motor can be made to be hyper efficient.  Its kind of silly to take 9-12 volts and charge a 9-12 volt battery.  But if ever there was a way to get close to Unity this is the route I would take. 

Good for you, Lynx!  You're off to a great start IMO.   I'd like to see where you take this.  Thanks for the clear and interesting videos.

The non-symmetrical motor and the Bedini motors have renewed interest lately.  Perhaps a bit of a horse race?  we'll see.  I'm pulling for ya, Lynx.

  LynxSteam:
  Thanks for showing us your new motor set up.
 
  I have a question about the idea of running the "no transistor" circuit using just plain leds, not the 12v or the 110v store bought bulbs ones. Just the common everyday smaller 3.6v leds, mounting many of them in series using 12v with your inverter type of coil set up, but using NO transistor. Do you think that it can be made to work like a 12v Jtc, but without the transistor. Would it work that way to light many leds? I know that transistors are cheap, but, IF it can be made work without them, that would be interesting also, and easier to build.

The window motor is a lot like the Bedini ssg.  Except it has an additional generator coil.  It can be a two pole rotor or multi pole rotor.  It has a very short pulse duration triggered by a separate coil as a magnet passes.  I like it because it is not steel cored.
I looked up the asymmetrical UFO motor design and it is very intriguing, but very much like a typical wound steel cored motor.  I am not clear on the "witch" and the unidirectional flow of DC.  It sounds right, but I am not sure electrons care which way they go.
Perhaps a fault with the design I am proposing is the long duration "on" time of the power coil.  The other fault is the need for some type of trigger, commutator or switch to turn on the transistor.
There really is no need to make an expensive clunky motor unless it is remarkable in some way.  That's what I am exploring.

Hall effect sensor commutation, then, will be the most precise and adjustable method. You just need to find the right place for the Hall sensor, and perhaps use a Schmitt trigger stage or CMOS inverter to square up the drive pulse. The Hall sensor can be used to fire a monostable 555 timer to give pulse width control. So you vary the sensor position for timing and the pulse width for dwell, or just use the edge of the Hall pulse to trigger the 3055.

Most of what's shown here may not be relevant to your project; I just wanted to show the use of the Hall sensor.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90rMGmskqXQ

Thank you TinselKoala,

I will try a more sophisticated triggering on the next build.  This weekend I will work on a machined version with much closer coil to magnet arrangement and strong cylindrical Neo magnets on a stainless shaft in proper bearings.

Here is what I think the cycle looks like through 225 degrees rotation.  Hopefully you will see any mistakes in current flow direction.  It is very confusing in 3D.  I don't remember where I tapped the AC.  This diagram reveals that it makes a difference.  I know that the motor runs faster with the generated voltage feedback.

solution without connector ?

coreless, brushless, sensorless, controllerless DC pulse motor based on transistor oscillation

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vOviGW3gFo&feature=plcp (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vOviGW3gFo&feature=plcp)

Very nice use for the Zener Diode.

Very impressive video.  That type of motor works well and is related to the Bedini SSG and Window type motors.  Any time you trigger the transistor with the stator coil you get a quick pulse of voltage to the drive coil.  The faster it runs the more power you use.  These types of motors aren't very torquey, so while they go around you can't drive much with them. 

I am trying to do something a little different.  I want to power the drive coil for a certain amount of the rotation, use the flyback, and then see if some of the induction that would normally occur can be used to amplify the voltage.  In order to do this the induced voltage and the spike have to be in phase.  Also I am hoping I can use the induced voltage run back through to help speed the rotation.  It is probably another goose chase.  But so far the results have been interesting enough and surprising enough to keep me going.

DC positive stays positive until it passes back to the battery and across the plates.  It can be on its way to the negative side and still do work.  There are two sources for current: 1.  The battery and 2. the induced current from magnets passing the coils.  It takes work to move magnets past coils and the power out is always less than the power in.  But at least I am able to get higher voltage out than in, and I can back charge the drive battery.  Now if I can demonstrate this motor is efficient that would be an accomplishment.

I lit a 120 volt LED off the BEMF that would normally go to the charge battery in the Bedini SG by spinning a bearingless 1" neo sphere inside a Spiral bifilar, The circuitry inside the Lights of America 7 watt LED, converts the BEMF from the 12 volt 400 milliamp input @50k, into 70 Lux units of power. This is the first time I've been able to measure the BEMF accurately.
This equals about .o % of the input. Not enough to generate any meaningful EMF in the secondary power coil. I would look elsewhere for an explanation for the acceleration, like the effect connecting a charge battery to a Bedini rotor, or Lenz delay.

I have built a new motor, and narrowed in on the schematic.  The AC comes off the secondary flyback coil and goes to a bridge rectifier.  Lots of weird things occur and I can't even repeat some of the experiments because I don't have the equipment to control variables.  The most interesting things are:
If the battery voltage is higher than the zener diode breakdown voltage things get interesting.  Start up and it runs along, then connect the positive from the BR and the rpm shoots up and the charge on the cap shoots up above rating.
Also if I connect the negative of the bridge rectifier it slows the motor down noticeably and running gets rough.  Take the negative lead off and the rpm goes shooting up.
With the volt meter hooked up to the bridge rectifier, posiitve lead to battery, voltage on the battery will increase while running for awhile and then settles.
Overall, I don't see anything breaking laws of physics (but I didn't expect that). 
My preliminary thought is the flyback is getting amplified by the passing magnet and has more than a whisper of ma.
There are times where I think "wow".  And then a few minutes later I see battery voltage drop and I say, "yep".
Overall, I do see about 250 ma drawn from the battery, 25 ma going back if I measure with amp meter, and yet when i am done with 10 minutes of running battery voltage can be lower or higher.

Here's today's video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EztG45B-qr0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EztG45B-qr0)

Apply torque to the drive shaft, and the battery will drain at the same rate it would without the recovery loop and speed up effect. The same thing holds true for Thane Heins's Lenz delay circuits. He can charge the source battery while the vehicle's coasting. Looping the a.c. BEMF from the secondary is actually increaseing the the hysterisis loop in the primary, causing Lenz delay. This causes a speed up that can actually send power back to the source battery with no additional load while ideling alone but nothing more.

@LynxStream,
Two Zener diodes, rated zero to x hi-voltage, reversed from each other on each end of the secondary, looped to the primary, may produce the same desired phase shift acceleration effect from the capacitive nature of the inductor. 
   

One Zener, an inductor choke with a ferrite core and a shottky diode at the return end to the power coil. Coupled with the Hall effect and power transister combination. I plan to try this Tuesday. I think this kind of simple tunable retarder may alter the way power is generated by the magneto effect of the spinning magnet rotor, and cause a Lenz reversal, propeling the spinner. I'll be be back with my results. The way you wired  the Zener was inspiring to me, thanks.

 

I finished the frame for my twin Spiral Joule Motor. I mounted a nice 1" tube spinner on precision ball bearings and attached a timing wheel with several small trigger magnets.in a wooden photographic box. Tomorrow, I plan to shop for and install the Hall effect, and Zener diode for my first replication test.
One Spiral is Quadfilar. The spinner accelerates when a tailored LED light bulb load is applied directly to the high voltage a.c. output. I believe this speed up effect is a cosequence of Lenz delay, and that Lynxstream may gain additional propulsion, from a multi wrap trifilar power coil with a bifilar series wraped output coil interlaced.
I imagine how a spinning neo sphere might store recovered road power as a flywheel battery, to replace the dead $3k NiCadHy in my Honda Insight Hybrid. An alternator that could charge while running could hydrolyze HHO, and srore it in an onboard compressor tank, as a second lightweight "battery". The Insight's clean air sensor shuts the gas off to the injectors completely in favor of the less noxious HHO.

The acceleration was coming from a mistake I made.  I had mistakenly wired the secondary so that it kicked the motor over on the other half of the cycle.  What this did was made it so that when the main coil fired through the transistor, the voltage dropped slightly under 12 volts and the zener didn't conduct through the secondary.  When the transistor switched off there was a flyback spike and with the voltage now over 12 volts the zener would conduct a little and the motor would kick over the other way.  Rectified AC is over battery voltage in this way.
So in essence the motor will run very fast when voltage is slightly over 12 volts, and slow down when voltage drops below.
I was able to keep the motor running for quite some time in this mode with voltage hovering between 12.02 - 11.99 volts.
Is there extra energy in surplus of input?  No, but if you count the torque at the shaft it is a very low draw motor.
Perfect timing helps quiet the motor.  Transistor on at 10-15 degrees ATDC, and off at 10-15 BBDC (before bottom dead center).

I will try putting a 12 volt zener in front of the primary coil to keep voltage right at 12 volts and see if this smooths out the running.  Excess voltage will hopefully back charge the battery and not just go to more amps in the motor.

Hopefully you can build on this concept and discover some more interesting things.

Also, I can draw a much simpler to build setup for anyone wanting to play with this.

QuoteAlso, I can draw a much simpler to build setup for anyone wanting to play with this. - Lynxsteam

That sounds good to me, Lynx!  would appreciate it.  (I'm working on two other builds at this time also, non-moving, but would like to try your latest stuff and learn from it!)

Nice work Lynxstream!   I haven't read this whole thread but the first thing I noticed was what you mentioned about it putting out a higher voltage than what is required to run it.  That is exactly what is going on with UFOPolitics Asymmetric motors over on EF in case you might have missed it.  Member UFOPolitics is very advanced in motor research and has been doing work with them for many years, has patents on some of his work and is now putting together info on Asymmetry which is somewhat related to Tom Bearden's work and of course Tesla is very much involved in his inspiration.  His dual commutator motor does put out a higher voltage on the generator end than it takes to run it.   You might find some things of interest there.   I believe he designed servo motors for aerospace and I think it's great he's sharing all the info he has found.  A very altruistic sort too who is totally open source.   Just a warning though if you decide to visit the thread as things went haywire for a day or two due to some naysayers/agitators who I would say were like babies compared to the amount of knowledge and experience UFOPolitics has but they seemed to think they knew better so you can imagine the fireworks that followed ( hhisg + kiafb = fireworks )  LOL  if you read the whole thread you may understand that equation but don't worry it's not important to the motor work.  Thread here:  http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/11885-my-asymmetric-electrodynamic-machines.html

Thanks for the tip.  I have watched that thread at the energetic forum.  I am very familiar with those motors.  My passion is to see what can be done with aircore coils.  There is no iron or steel in the motors I am playing with except the stainless steel shaft which is non-magnetic.  Eddy currents in steel can be avoided and mitigated but cause heat.  Heat is wasted energy unless you want heat.  Its tough to run 3 amps through a tiny steel cored coil and not make things pretty hot.  30 awg wire is good for 1 amp so I am not sure how long these motors will run on 3 amps.  The Joule motor runs on 250 ma or less.

I will post another video soon just to show how the Joule Motor runs when tuned.  It runs very cool and smooth.  I am trying all sorts of weird things with earth grounding, antenna, running loads off the high voltage.  I haven't found anything like Over Unity, but still quite fun.

Now I am using the mistake I made with the secondary firing through on the second half of the cycle to my advantage.  I upped the resistor on the base to 400 ohms and still can't slow the motor down.  Charge on the capacitor across the bridge rectifier runs between 12 and 45 volts.

The other weird thing is the motor runs fine on less than 12 volts even though my theory about the 12 volt zener says the secondary shouldn't have much power.

Hey Lynx

I noticed in your motor vid that the batt starts at 12.55v, but once you started the motor and you got it to jump to a higher rpm, shortly after starting, the meter went up to 12.6.

What was it that you were doing that made the motor speed up/voltage up, at the time?

Something happened there. ;] Cuz if anything, while the motor was running, we should have only seen a voltage drop. ;]

Mags

Magluvin,

I think what happens is the capacitor is charged up from the last run sometimes and when I hook up the battery to the motor that charge feeds back to the battery in a quick charge. 

Timing is everything with this setup.  Now I am not using the AC feedback at all.  Just the basic circuit with a bridge rectifier/capacitor in the power line.  The AC now comes from antenna and earth ground.  This is like alchemy.  I have no idea what I am doing sometimes, just trying things.  This is sort of the electron pump idea.  If the DC is pulsing across the capacitor I am trying to siphon some energy from a 50 ft antenna and a solid earth ground.  If the capacitor is bouncing back and forth like a timpani drum I am trying to pull in charge from air and ground.

I definitely see a very slow decline in battery voltage while running, but when I check the battery resting voltage it can be higher than starting voltage.  I think this is significant because if you ran a screaming RS motor for five minutes you would see a decline in battery voltage and a hot motor.

This closed loop Hall effect spinner circuit of Lidmotor's returns back spikes to the source capacitor:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=729qGYl7pTw (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=729qGYl7pTw)

Lidmotor inspires me to try new things.  I love his videos and his easy style.  (We are both sailors)

I can easily light led's run fans, etc off the Joule Motor.  I have made a lot of Joule Thiefs.  They are fun and amazing.  But, I have moved past that.  A Bedini motor uses the magnet to trigger the transistor to push the magnet away and the flyback is a high voltage spike.  But the trigger coil doesn't do much other than trigger the transistor.

Naively, I am trying really hard to do something more amazing in my experimenting.  I love a challenge.

The challenge is to fool the motor rpm into running fast enough to put out a higher voltage than the source battery.  To do that we need to have the magnet spin past the coils and in such an orientation to run on top of the flyback charge voltage.  Also, timing the induced current so that the it flows through the other coil back to the battery in a way that increases rpm.

I wont succeed in achieving OU, but I will exhaust this line of experimenting and maybe something will come of it.

Here are the instructions for making this Lynx Joule Motor as simple as I can make it.  Feel free to use your own scraps and techniques.  Avoid using metals, even aluminum which will cause the magnetic field to drag.
You can trigger the transistor in other ways, but the magnetic fields are pretty strong.
Neodymium magnets would be better but aren't necessary.  Any ceramic magnets will do for experimenting.
When you come to the point of orienting the coil leads, just hook up a 1.5 volt battery straight to the coil and see which way the magnets move.  You can mark the magnets N/S and see which way the field is oriented.  Solder the coils to the circuit.
Remember with air core coils the center will act as a pole when energized, but when induction occurs it is only when the magnet pole aligns with a leg of the coil, (not the center of the coil).
Adjust the base resistor (33 for high amp draw, 400 for low amp draw, 1k potentiometer would be ideal))  for the best speed and lowest amp draw.  You will be looking for a point at which the battery drain while running is near zero. 
Fine tuning the transistor on and off time and base resistor value is fun!

Self inductance and capacitive reactance in output coils produces Lenz delay propulsion in the prime mover. A spontaneous charge appears in the output coil that blocks incoming current flow, then permits it. Experimenters have been backlooping BEMF to the primary coil to add power to the input pulse with no success. I don't know of anyone who has tried to direct back spike power to an output coil to increase inductive reactance, and perhaps Lenz delay propulsion. This was the theory that I postulated to help explain Lynxstream's non- understood acceleration effect.

I am currently testing my theory useing Lidmotor's Hall effect circuit. The experiment would involve wraping Lidmotor's Maggie Hi-Voltage bifilar, then run a 3 volt Zener diode from the pnp transister collector to Maggie's hot lead. Spinner r.p.m  must be past Maggie's Lenz propulsion threshold. Switch the back spike circuit on and re-measure the r.p.m.  However, my experiment no longer appears to be on topic here, so I'll resume with it on a new thread. Thanks for helping with the idea.

Synchro1

I look forward to your experiments.  I hope to learn a lot from what you are doing.  As you say, my "non-understood acceleration effect" is just that.  I don't understand a lot of what I do.  if people knew how many crazy things I try they would laugh.  Its only when I find something interesting that I start diving in to understand.

Please drop in on this thread once in a while and tell me more about Lenz Delay Propulsion.  I have so much to learn.

I did a video showing some of my experiments with tuning.  I know batteries are an unreliable source of data, and that voltage doesn't mean much without amps.  This video is just so you can watch what I am seeing and hearing.  I think it may be possible to tune this motor to operate with very little voltage drop. 

I don't trust my amp meter.  It shows between 100-275 ma draw, and 25 ma back to battery.  But I think these numbers are averages and not a good picture of what is happening.  I wish I had the test equipment you guys have, but this is a side hobby for me.

If I get the motor tuned right, the battery voltage stays about the same run after run.  This video is going to be really boring for those outside the field of our research, but I posted it so you can see what it looks and sounds like.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQyakQ3HPsM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQyakQ3HPsM)

Lenz's law states that when a moving magnet passes a wire coil, it induces a current that causes an opposition magnetic field to appear in the output coil. The output coil's induced opposition field repels the passing magnet creating drag. A "two pole" rotating magnet spinner causes the output coil's poles to shift from one side to the other side of the coil. Lenz propulsion phase shift occurs when the spinner rotates a little faster then the output coil can switch it's poles; For a 1" spinner around 20k with bifilar series wrap. Less r.p.m with multiple rotor magnets, Heinz's d.c. motor 2.7k. When a coil charges, the charge blocks any further input.

Coil capacitance, is a consequence of self induction, and directly proportional to the Lenz delay phase shift. The output coil's Capacitive reactance, slows the output coil's ability to shift it's poles fast enough to sustain the drag lag: Thus, This slowing reactance allows the high speed spinner to edge out in front of TDC, catching a push. Something is causing your motor to speed up and act like it's perhaps dealing with a phase shift of some kind. I'll get back with my test results and a video.

Thank you for the detailed explanation.

There is no way this motor will approach that high of rpm speed.  I may be hitting 1000 - 3000 rpm.  The only other thing to consider is that these coils are not iron cored.  Each leg is fluxed in turn by the passing magnet.  Each leg is about .375" wide.  So there are actually eight ac pulses per revolution (2 poles, 4 legs of coil).  The center of the coil is a dead area when the pole is align on it.  The other thing which should be considered is that these are aircore coils and so there is no saturation, and the only magnetic field collapse is when the transistor turns off.  Otherwise the rise and fall of induced voltage doesn't create any kind of sudden collapse. 

Perhaps with this many ac pulses occurring at 1000-3000 rpm the effect may still pertain.  I can definitely hear a harmonic pulsing as the motor runs.  It correlates with the voltage and charge on the capacitor.  As the motor turns faster amp draw goes up slightly, then voltage goes up, motor slows amp draw declines and the cycle repeats.

Keep teaching us if you don't mind.

Two things stand out in this video. One, the 22k threshold r.p.m. for the phase shift: Two, the nearly 5lb thin wire bifilar of many wraps. This output coil maximizes self inductance and capacitive reactance. The coil's natural self power storage capacity, aided by the ferrite core, retards changes in the coil's fields.
The Joule Motor charges an aircore coil with hi-voltage backspike at 90 degrees, then after another 270 degrees of null activity, generates a.c. current. My theory is that the backspike begins to charge the secondary coil to a higher level then it's natural potential, increasing the reactive capacitance. This may be high enough to lower the threshold r.p.m. to Joule Motor speed.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASbXw3RkAHA (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASbXw3RkAHA)

Place a diametric ring inside the core of a bifilar output coil, and Lenz delay can be achieved. The reason differs; Instead of capacitive reactance retarding the output coil, the powerfull magnet field  creates the interference.

Hi Lynxsteam!!!

You project will continue ?

Hug!

Team,

I am not working on the Joule Motor.  I am back to working on getting an efficient Wind Turbine kit ready for DIYers.  I think NickZ, Synchro, Joule Seeker and others will morph this area of research and find some interesting discoveries.  I do stay tuned to what you guys are doing.

I have been working on wind power for over two years at least.  The latest is a kit that you put together at a price that beats the cost of an equivalent solar panel.  I am testing a MPPT controller right now with a prototype wind turbine. MPPT stands for  "maximum power point tracking".  Wind power is a tough nut to crack because the output is wild AC and has to be tamed into a useful form of DC or AC.  This MPPT has several operating modes which can be easily adjusted, puts out charts and graphs, data logs for two weeks, and can run the power back into the grid.
The turbine is silent and can be mounted on a boat, RV, cabin or in the yard.