Hello everybody,
I've just finished my project. A solid state free energy device based on Akula+kapanadze coil and ZVS driver.
Photos: https://www.facebook.com/marinescu.adrian.100/media_set?set=a.704454936252305.1073741828.100000634149553&type=3
Videos: https://www.facebook.com/marinescu.adrian.100/media_set?set=vb.100000634149553&type=2
Hope you like it :))
Greetings from Romania
Well, it certainly has everything an electrical Free Energy device needs: A jumble of loose wiring, colored clipleads, a couple of cheap DMMS.... and a BATTERY.
(And no valid measurements of input and output.)
Carry on! Let me know when you are running your home's electrical needs from your device.
The device powers a light bulb 105W Halogen and the batery is chargedat same time...
Please accept my apology.
It's just that I've seen many devices just like this, lighting up bulbs and charging batteries, and they never have turned out to be "real". They are either measured incorrectly or they are downright fakes. The jumbled construction, the lack of clear schematics and the reliance on test equipment that isn't up to the job, and might not be used properly.... all of these are common in claims of this nature. So whenever I see a new one, seemingly repeating the same old, same old things, I tend to be a bit cynical.
You do realize, I hope, that lighting up a "105 Watt" bulb does not mean that you are dissipating 105 Watts. And it has been shown over and over that pulse-charging a battery can actually ruin the battery if it's not done properly. The battery looks like it's getting charged up, but it is actually reducing its overall energy storage capacity, even though the terminal voltage (open circuit) might seem to be increasing.
Do you have an oscilloscope? Have you been reading the excellent thread from Poynt99 on making proper power measurements?
Unfortunately, I don't have an oscilloscope...Give me an alternative, please.....
shows a schematic....
The schematic is attached.
Quote from: xhacks on January 24, 2014, 08:18:18 AM
Unfortunately, I don't have an oscilloscope...Give me an alternative, please.....
There really isn't one.
You are dealing with a system that produces fast pulses and spikes with fast risetimes. There is also a lot of "reactive power" circulating in the coils/capacitors of the circuit. This means that power measurements made with voltage and current measuring DMMs don't always tell the whole story. But with an oscilloscope, you can do several things. You can measure at various points in the circuit, you can look at how one signal affects another signal, but most importantly you can make simultaneous and instantaneous measurements of voltage and current. Multiplying these instantaneous values together yields a real power curve that accounts for all phase shifts and other subtle effects, to give a true power reading. This can then be integrated over a suitable time period to give an accounting of the _energy_ flows in the device. Power is not energy and often, increases in peak power, shown on DMMs, can be misinterpreted. Peak power levels can increase even though there is no increase in actual energy. Proper use of the oscilloscope can take care of these problems and allows one to make a true accounting of input _energy_ versus output _energy_.
Inexpensive, surplus analog scopes can be used and can give results just as accurate, sometimes even more accurate, than modern digital scopes. The advantage of the digital scope is that it does a lot of work for you, very fast. But you can do the same thing with an analog scope, a camera, and a spreadsheet, it just takes longer.
The oscilloscope is truly the "king of test equipment" and every laboratory that works with electronic circuits should have, at the very least, a 2-channel analog scope with 20 MHz bandwidth or better, a Function Generator that goes up to 3 MHz and produces the usual waveforms, and a frequency counter.
Thank you for posting your device.
If you could remove the battery totally once the circuit starts and keeps going then, we can open up the wine bottle!
Quote from: xhacks on January 24, 2014, 09:57:33 AM
The schematic is attached.
гениратор.jpg (http://www.overunity.com/14229/free-energy-device-romania/dlattach/attach/132575/) , in the first post.
:'( :'(
Quote from: MasterPlaster on January 24, 2014, 10:25:05 AM
Thank you for posting your device.
If you could remove the battery totally once the circuit starts and keeps going then, we can open up the wine bottle!
Assuming, of course, that there isn't any trickery involved, and that the lab isn't under a high-tension powerline, and etc. and etc. I'm not accusing the OP xhacks of anything, but I do believe that similar devices have been faked in the past.
I'll wait to open my wine until good, repeatable measurements are made on a circuit that can actually be constructed.
What if I try with this: http://www.ledametrix.com/oscope/oscope02.gif
and this: http://www.zelscope.com/screenshotwav1.jpg
Can you teach me how do I read the measurements.
Cheers,
Adrian
Quote from: xhacks on January 24, 2014, 11:10:19 AM
What if I try with this: http://www.ledametrix.com/oscope/oscope02.gif (http://www.ledametrix.com/oscope/oscope02.gif)
and this: http://www.zelscope.com/screenshotwav1.jpg (http://www.zelscope.com/screenshotwav1.jpg)
I was thinking of suggesting Winscope which is free and is a similar product -
( http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Prac/winscope.htm )
but didn't because these software scopes are limited by the frequency response of the sound card - not much at all. You need to be VERY CAREFUL about connecting up or you will blow the sound card.
But it is a start and always useful for other projects
Quote from: xhacks on January 24, 2014, 11:10:19 AM
What if I try with this: http://www.ledametrix.com/oscope/oscope02.gif (http://www.ledametrix.com/oscope/oscope02.gif)
and this: http://www.zelscope.com/screenshotwav1.jpg (http://www.zelscope.com/screenshotwav1.jpg)
Can you teach me how do I read the measurements.
Cheers,
Adrian
Yes, Paul R is right, a sound card scope is nice for very low frequencies but I don't think it would be suitable for your project. It also puts your sound card at risk, so I don't recommend it for experiments with high voltage or spiky signals. You could always try one, just to get the feel for using an oscilloscope, but I definitely wouldn't plug directly into a motherboard-based sound system. Get a cheap but separate sound card so you don't ruin your whole computer sound system if something goes wrong.
You might check out the "Best oscilloscope choice" thread for some tips on inexpensive scopes. Yes, I'll be glad to help you read the measurements once you are ready to make them. There are other posters here who are more expert at power measurements, who may also help out.
Nice work xhacks. I can't seem to see or find any videos though on your facebook page. Can you post them on youtube or somewhere else?
You can check them here e2matrix: http://www.youtube.com/user/marinescuadrian1999/videos
When I will raise my money I will buy an oscilloscope, and I will let you read the measurments...
Till then I will try to remove the battery and add a huge capacitor to check if can self loop, without a battery...
Adrian,
That is wonderful.
Will you be sharing schematic and coil details ?
Regards, Penno
Quote from: penno64 on January 25, 2014, 02:45:07 AM
Adrian,
That is wonderful.
Will you be sharing schematic and coil details ?
Regards, Penno
THE SCHEMATIC IS ATTACHED!!!
Thanks Adrian, I had previously downloaded the schematic but whilst I can determine what most components are, I am having problems with others.
Lets see -
TL494 set for 50Hz and 50% duty cycle.
T1 & T2 are both 2n3055.
12v Battery to the right side of diagram via 4700uf capacitor.
Feedback from L5 via 75w bulb into 220 -> 12v transformer through bridge then 4700uf and up to feed 2 x 2200uf buffer caps.
L1 & L2 unsure ? maybe ?024,0 turn and .01mm
L4 & L3 ?????? 500 turn 00.3 mm
Ground (earth) via centre of main coil.
Left bottom corner -
T3 & T4 are both tk805 driving a TBC (flyback) then into I think a high voltage Bridge rectifier via a 100k and spark gap
On DC side into 470uF HV cap I think ?
I then think another adjustable spark gap then into L3. Uncertain what is written next to L3 with arrow pointing to it.
Same for arrow pointing to core.
What are K1 and K2
Well, how did I go.
Regards
K1 and K2 are relays, and switches
Cheers,
Adrian
Thank you Adrian, Penno
May I ask, where in any of the videos, and thank you for those, are the flyback and 220 to 12v transformer and spark gap and all these caps and relays ?
I can't determine anything in these videos but a coil, a bulb and a battery :(
Translated image attached
Thanks so much for that, Penno
No problem...:))
Hi,
is this your schematic?
As i found exact same schematic on a russion forum. it was Ustanovka10kw, who posted the schematic and his video.
http://realstrannik.ru/forum/48-temy-freeenergylt-antanasa/134698-ustanovka-10-kvt.html#185968 (http://realstrannik.ru/forum/48-temy-freeenergylt-antanasa/134698-ustanovka-10-kvt.html#185968)
could you please explain?
Regs,
D.J
salut
why russian translation?
Adrian also
If you actually have an OU / Free Energy device with electrical input and output, there is a relatively simple way to prove it, without an oscilloscope. You just need to build two identical units and run one from the output of the other one, and run the first one from the output of the second one. Once the loop is started, remove all batteries and stand back.
I will try 2 build 2 devices as TinselKoala said....:))
@xhacks
for the first evaluation it would be sufficient to know the volts and amps at the battery and the bulb.
If the results are promising, I would use a step-down transformer parallel to the bulb a fwbr and a voltage regulator (that work like pwm/like used in cars and don't dissipate heat) to loop the device.
First you must be sure that the power drawn from the battery is much lower than the power dissipated by the lamp at a given voltage of the lamp. First lets assume that you have a sine wave at the lamp. Btw I don't see the HV-Part , the spark gap...
Buy a Chinese made DSO 2090 PC digital scope for 100 to 150 $ on Ebay. (Relatively cheap and I'm happy with it).
1) Use channel A in for voltage across input.
2) Use channel B for voltage across shunt in serie (to measure current) calculate I by Ohms law (I=U/R): measure R with an
Ohmsmeter before.
3) Use Math function, multiply A*B you get a curve C who is real power non Bullshit power factor.
4) Then to know how much energy is consumed do an integral over a period of time.
5) Use trapezoidal rule (easy: just add the area of trapeze) or Simpson method (difficult need higher math because second order calculus. (Look at Wikipedia)).
6) Or just look at the area under that C curve it's usually enough.
7) Above zero line = positive power (consumption), under zero line = negative power (recharging battery or production)
If Positive = Negative, it will be equal to 0 then you may have some reactive power inside it (like a coil under AC)
8 ) Goto 1 but with the oscilloscope at the output.
9) Compare P-Out/P-In ratio.
10) If > 1 then you got OU.
11) Before all that learn how to use a scope.
12) End.
13) Hope you got OU and good research !
Hello Adrian,
thanks for presenting the device you made. As others have said, it would be interesting to clearly see all the components of the circuit and also provide a clear description of how the main coil (transformer) is wound.
It would be great if you could take photos of all the individual components when you build the second one.
In order to establish whether the device actually charges the battery while running the device, I want to present two ideas:
1. Use a bigger battery (for cars or trucks). If you run the device from such a battery, it is easier to determine whether the battery is actually recharged.
(Test battery-voltage under a normal load before and after running the device).
2. Connect a small load (low watt car lightbulb) to the battery while running the device. Connect that load to the battery in parallel to the device.
If the voltage of the battery still rises, while powering that other load....
... well, that would be great.
Thanks again.
Thank you oscar.
I will make another video, with your idea.Till now I haven't started to build another device because I don't have enough modey to buy all the components again. I found a program to make money but I have to let my computer always on.
If you can all make a account to boost my account to get more money
Here is my affiliate link: https://api.coingeneration.com/auth/new/626664
Thank you all
hi
did someone replicate this one from forum?
regards zcsaba77