Advantages of earth batteries
1. FREE ENERGY
2. Long Life needed.
3. The collection of earth ether energy and conventional (which is an electroplating effect in this case).
4. Free Energy day or night
5. cells are replenished by outside weather, etc...
6. System can be scaled up or down, to get as much power
7. A great source of free energy for the poor countries that do not have any light source. each family can build to their income. The more money spent on copper the more power! The more Neon or bulb lighting.
http://energy.spiritworld.info/free_energy_systems.html?earthnrg.html
http://energy.spiritworld.info/free_energy_systems.html?http://energy.spiritworld.info/earthnrg-capacitor-project.html
If the cells are made correctly they don't have to be buried in the ground. ;)
-Bruce P.
I tried this, mesured 0.8 V with a multimeter on one cell, but the Amps are really too weak to get something from it.
Even by adding more cells, I couldn't get more Volts, or more Amps.
I could not even lit a LED.
Did someone try this and got usefull results ?
Hi sam,
I try this too 2 -3 years ago and could also not get better results, one reason is that the earth needs to be moist at all times, and to put them in series is another story, where I am located the soil is mostly totally dry except during the reany season and the humidity is also 80 % of the time verry high, what is contrceptive to, thats why i stopt the experiements in this direction.
greetings
walt
I just hope somebody had better results than me. However where I live, the soil is often wet, but it doesn't change alot the results. :-[
It was also very painfull to dig deeper than 1 meter. So I digged diagonally to try to fit the 1.5m cell in a hole.
By the way, I tested various size of zinc rodes. Surprisingly, with a smaller surface I got 0.2 V more than with a big zinc rode. :o
Just to mention an interesting point. Depending on where I digged the cell I could get different Volts.
I could notice a link with Hartman knots. With active Hartman knots, I could reach 1 V. Elsewhere, I got between 0.6V and 0.75V.
Did someone make a link with Bio-energy/Hartman knots and related topics ?
hi sam,
there is a direct connection between the positiv ( copper) and the zinc. in order to get more out the copper allways seams to be in a ratio of more then 1:60 to 80 in regards to the surface area. if the zinc surface area is bigger then the voltage will go down between 0.15 and 0.4 V.
I did even build a copper square canal type with the size of 8 X 10 X 36 inches, with a 3/8 square zinc bar it brought about 1 V and 10 mA but only if I hold it wet if it is dry it only whould be 0,4V and 2 mA.
it is not worth the effort for me.
greetings
walt
not to mention the fact that the result is a pile of zinc oxide. Good for sunscreen....
take a look
more..
When I was in the navy, one of the things we did as gas turbine engineers was corrosion control through zinc anodes. There were plates in the bilge and other places where moisture(and especially salt water) might accumulate. As we took advantage of the ocean waters for cooling we placed annodes in the coolant lines to forstall the corrosion of our cooler tube bundles.
One such instance that comes to mind is the cooler for our Allison Gas turbine engines that we used for power generators. Once a month we would replace a string of annodes that screwed together to form a rod. Depending on the particular ocean we were in and its salinity, our anodes were corroded. Most times severly. I remember a significant loss of zinc over the course of one month, and this is where my misgivings about earth bateries comes from.
How much zinc is lost per unit of power in these earth bateries, and given the cost of zinc what does that translate to as far as dollars per unit of power. If there is something I am missing, such as that you have an anode that works without the resulting corrosion, then that would be a breakthrough indeed and I would definately be listening.
I don't want this taken as a rant against further research into the principles of earth bateries, merely an illumination of the actual problems. They work, to be sure, but they are relatively short lived for the materials necessary. Conventional bateries have been more developed over the years(mainly, I believe, because portability has been a major selling point for the industry) and by unit of material sacrificed, are more reliable and more efficient. Could the same be done for earth bateries?...I am sure of it. Is it worth it?...that is the purpose of the questions above.
Yes, there does exist an alloy that does not corrode as fast as zinc. It is a zinc/aluminum alloy that I use in my ion-valve diodes to
generate electrical power. Is anyone paying attention?
-Bruce P.
Paying attention?.....raptly....
Bruce, it occurs to me that your alloy might be applicable to the earth bateries, but does slower corrosion in an earth context mean less current?
The oxidation is a byproduct of ion exchange is it not? and so the rates of both must be related. Do you have any energy value to oxidation rate numbers? I also understand that the alloy you use is not the only unique thing about your bateries, so it would stand to reason (which is why I hesitated to jump to the conclusion above) that just because it works in your case, might not mean that it is more suitable for other applications where your other materials are not used. Thanks for bringing my attention to this.
Again, in the absence of your battery system, would your alloy in a simple burried configuration allow for a better earth battery, or does the reticense to oxydation indicate a slower transfer of current?
Thanks Bruce
Kysmett,
I do believe that there is something that goes beyond oxidation. The alloy and graphite couple forms a diode and whatever energy oscillations that are occuring at the junction muust be rectified. It is correct that my ion-valve diode offers a very good environment to produce an optinum amount of electrical current but the chosen alloy/graphite couple should also work well buried in the ground if what you are after is an earth battery.
-Bruce P.
Bruce,
I wonder, do you have any extra sets of these? I would be more than willing to perform analysis of current versus decomposition when used as an earth battery. I would, of course, be willing to use whatever burried configuration you think would be optimal, if that is of significance at all. And I can compare it to the decomposition rates of standard copper/zinc earth batteries. It would be a simple matter of total power/change in weght.
Thinking about this further, the oxidation of different materials would result in dissimilar wieght changes for the same unit of oxidation. So in this light I propose that we discuss a setup that would present a fair comparative study. Once we finalize this we can talk about getting it done. I admit that I want to look in this direction for answers, but the more I think about it the more difficult it is for me to nail down how to conduct a fair study. After all, it comes down to unit per molecule oxidized doesn't it, which would be misrepresented by weight, as zinc is heavier than graphite, which is different from any other alloy chosen.
Any ideas?
Kysmett
Hi Kysmett,
The way I would go about analyzing this is the cost per watt-hour. The only hard part
is to decide what is the lowest useful cell voltage (i.e. the voltage where you stop
measurements). Since a resistive load can be used, the power calculations are easy.
If you build an earth battery let me know. I will help with measurements. To bad my
landlord won't let me dig up the yard!
--
Everyone click on an ad!
http://www.nuenergy.org/alt/nu_energy_sodium_chloride_valve.htm
Okay then. Lets decide what the low end for useful voltage is. What would be the smallest valid load application? Garden LED's? Full lamps for the walk-way? Any ideas?
all sorts of LED lightning.
Depends on how much power you can draw.
Build the cells bigger and you can draw more power and use high power LEDs.
Quote from: Kysmett on May 13, 2005, 10:31:56 AM
Okay then. Lets decide what the low end for useful voltage is. What would be the smallest valid load application? Garden LED's? Full lamps for the walk-way? Any ideas?
Well, 0.4 volts would make a good cut-off. Most of the transister boost circuits that operate
LED's will stop working below 0.4-0.35 volts. I don't know what the voltage per earth battery
cell is, but build enough cells in series to give a reasonable starting voltage, say 5-6 volts.
For the load resistor, something in the range of 30-100 Ohms and rated at 5 watts would be
reasonable. Then you need to periodically measure the voltage across the load resistor. Use
the voltage measurement to calculate the current and you then have one current, time point
to plot on a graph.
At the end of the test, integrate to get the area that is below the data points on the graph. The
area will be equal to the batteries Amp hour rating. If you supply the data I'll write the program
to do the integration of the data. :)
Okay, sounds fair. There is only one other variable. Soil quality. I don't have the resources to conduct periodic soil quality and moisture content tests throughout the experiment. If we are willing to forego that, I will start gathering materials.
Quote from: Kysmett on May 17, 2005, 04:12:07 PM
Okay, sounds fair. There is only one other variable. Soil quality. I don't have the resources to conduct periodic soil quality and moisture content tests throughout the experiment. If we are willing to forego that, I will start gathering materials.
Hi Kysmett,
I don't think repeated soil quality or moisture tests are too important. What should be done though, is
find a location where you don't think soil moisture will change much during the experiment. Once the
battery is buried it might be a good idea to cover the area with a plastic sheet to help prevent any
moisture change. Saving a dried sample of the soil from the area would be a good idea too.
Well, I'm sure there are some other things that can be done to make this a good experiment, but
they can be hashed out later. ;)
I have a problem when i connect them in series to get 12 volts
With one battery (copper pipe and zink rod) i have 1.1 volt add one battery in serie i have 1.8 volt and add third i have only 2 volt my maximum with 10 battery is only
2.2 volt
you have them too near to each other.
You have to insolate them from each other, otherwise
the moist ground builds a shortout for the voltage,
although you would get higher currents due to higher
metal surface...
I have put 1 feet between each pipe (battery)
Sorry for my bad english!
It is possible to repalce paint by tape
Just isolate them in plastic boxes filled with wet sand and then put them in series...
Which is the lifespan of this system?
This is a chemical reaction between copper and the zinc which gives electricity?
Earth Energy batteries remind me of something that I read recently in the jnl labs group about getting electricity out of trees.
I tried it and got 1.03 v steady. Never got to meassure the current though. No time.
I was wondering if anyone in this forum has heard of this or may be tried this.
The experiment is simple, one nail on the tree and a 1/4" cooper pipe about 12cm into the ground.
Would be nice to hear any comments ...
Quote from: adrian on January 18, 2006, 08:13:00 AM
Earth Energy batteries remind me of something that I read recently in the jnl labs group about getting electricity out of trees.
I tried it and got 1.03 v steady. Never got to meassure the current though. No time.
I was wondering if anyone in this forum has heard of this or may be tried this.
The experiment is simple, one nail on the tree and a 1/4" cooper pipe about 12cm into the ground.
Would be nice to hear any comments ...
Into the tree a nail of steel and a cooper pipe into the ground gives a galvanic element. I do not believe that this is good for the tree.
These people seem to be on the earth to tree path as well. http://www.magcap.com (http://www.magcap.com)
rensseak,
I have my doubts too about how bad that could be for a tree.
Regarding the galvanic element, that was my first thought after I found out about this but then I took a look at http://www.magcap.com/pdf/faq.pdf (same site that Msclay24 sent as reference) and thought that somehow there must be something different.
I think that it would be worth to experiment how much power you can get out of single tree without killing it. Differente types of trees, different sizes.
I tried this concept also in a plant in a mid-sized flowerpot with a paper clip and the same cooper piping buried only 5cm and got .35v, no fluctuation.
Well, it is probably just a galvanic cell and the tree will die later on..
Also they still use NiCadmium batteries which should be avoided and better
NiMH Batteries should be used...
not very healthy...
I really wonder, if they have really tested the degredation of the
electrodes over time yet...
Stefan,
It is my capture capacitor effect. I have recently proven that it is definitely not a chemical effect. A wire doesn't need to be connected to a tree to obtain the energy from the earth's radiant energy field. Plates capture the energy much more effectively than stringing a wire to a tree because there is more surface area. I will be revealing more about this in the upcoming weeks. I might even offer a product.
-Bruce P.
Would the plates be placed around the tree?
Do trees have some effect in channeling this radiant energy?
Adrian,
The wire to the tree is one capacitor plate and the earth is the other plate. The tree contains water that draws energy to the wire/earth capacitor.
No, they are special capacitors that draw the energy to themselves. Trees are not required. M sodium chloride valves are another modification of this effect... http://www.nuenergy.org/alt/sodium_chloride_valve.htm I am now using large metal plates with a non-conducting liquid. I have confirmed that T.H. Moray used these types of capacitors in his radiant energy receiver.
-Bruce P.
You uses which kind of metal plate, copper, soft iron?
How much voltage and amperage from this system?
This is possible to have a plan?
Is your ion valve to be sold?
This is possible to have a plan?
thanks for the info :)
http://www.site-city.net/internett/softnice/tech/free_energy/free_energy_from_the_earth_plans.pdf
http://www.site-city.net/internett/softnice/tech/free_energy/homemade_battery_plans.pdf
:)
Hi-
Couldn't get either web link to work.
madwizard the link does not work. if you have downloaded the file please post here.
thank you.
Ok.
Hope this works then.
great it works! :o
When I put plates of copper/soft iron in the earth(I don't use zinc-too reactive with the soil).I only got voltage readings for one cell,But I had 4 cells connected in series.So I only got like .80(point 8) volts for the series of 4 cells.So whats going on here?It turns out that to get the higher voltages your cells must be electrically isolated from each other.Then you can add the voltages and power those leds like you want to.A clue to what was wrong with my setup came from two sources.
One was an experiment where the guy set up foam cups(about 4) of earth on a counter .stuck electrodes in the earth,added water,hooked them up in series and powered his leds.Another source was where I saw a design for a 12 volt earth battery.The copper tubes were sealed with a rubber coating,the zinc electrodes were stuck inside the copper tubes.Then the six cells were hooked up in series to get 12 volts.So I suggest that you isolate your cells then hook them up in series
I think think plastic bottles cut in half would do the trick when you stick them in the ground (like 1 liter plastic pop bottles).I think you should go north to south with them.Hopefully this info will help someone here.triffid
@ All:
You guys should join us over at earth battery experiments topic. We are getting pretty good results over there in using the teluric currents of the earth. I am up to about 2.4 vdc and 9.0 mA and can light 3 leds. (2 flashing and 1 constant) from a single cell. The more experimenters, the better. We are now exploring coil arrangements as Stubblefield did back at the turn of the century.
Bill
Has anyone tried to solder a aluminum can. It doesn't work you can't solder aluminum.
Sid
check out this video... http://www.youtube.com/v/hWnMReMXq5Q&hl=en&fs=1
And this video....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mq9ZKDKDclY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mq9ZKDKDclY)
Bill
why can't we use something like this for free energy? http://www.rexresearch.com/moray3/beyond.htm
i've heard that this thing will attract too much electricity and if you're close by you can get electrocuted and can die, not only that but the system will self destruct by exploding?
so why not have some kind of fuse implemented to this design? or can't you just ground the system if there's too much electricity coming in? this way things will be under control?
EDIT - i have attached a picture for you guys to see the basic design.
also one pole should probably be North and the other South
another great video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAPGlaMHOhQ&feature=related
Quote from: FreeEnergy on August 29, 2008, 11:56:42 PM
another great video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAPGlaMHOhQ&feature=related
this video got deleted! did anyone save it to their hard drive? i didn't get the change to save this video :(
Hi!
I downloaded the pdf file some time ago. I tried to post it but the site regulations does not allow a file bigger than 1500kb or something like that. The file is 57+mb
Is there any other place you can upload the file and the people that needs it can reach it?
Please advice.
Jesus
Upload it to here http://www.mediafire.com/
Hi!
I made a mistake on the size of the file. I dont know how I read 57mb. When I checked the size again a few minutes later, it was 1.98mb. Accept my apologies for that mistake.
I will post the pdf to: http://www.mediafire.com/ If I can post there.
Jesus
Hi!
The link to the pdf file is: http://www.mediafire.com/?fyxwwy2tqnb
Enjoy!
Jesus
"When I put plates of copper/soft iron in the earth(I don't use zinc-too reactive with the soil)."
>>I bought plans from a particular mail order outfit that dealt with free energy years ago in the States.
What I did in a large vacant lot was: Start with the push-in-the-ground wire-and-paper advertising sign supports made of annealed (soft) steel wire. (Cheap and very common in America.) Then I found commercial aluminum pallet binding wire having an American wire gauge of around #2 gauge.
The important thing was that the metals be different on the Periodic Chart of natural elements. That the steel was sometimes rusty was no problem.
The wires were pushed into dry ground, alternating Al (aluminum) and Fe (iron) more than 15 feet (about 4.75m?) apart. Copper wire connect all the Fe wires in series to each other. Al wires were connecter the same way, but not connected in series or parallel to the Fe wires. This made each a distinct circuit. A copper piece of pipe was hammered into the ground for an electrical Earth Ground.
Whether either the Fe or Al end of the wire or the other Al wire (I don't remember if the iron or aluminum was positive---this was 20 yrs. ago) was connected to the copper ground it registered 1 volt at once on an analog Radio Shack voltmeter. After 2 hrs. time, the reading was 2 volts, whereas the whole circuit should have been grounded.
Thomas Edison was an early pioneer in DC earth battery work with possibly several Patents to his credit. There were also other researchers. U.S. patent 329,724 "Electric Earth Battery" describes one such device.
http://www.pat2pdf.org and http://www.google.com/advanced_patent_search ...
will allow you to download the patents.
--Lee
the_big_m_in_ok
Thomas Edison was an early pioneer in DC earth battery work with possibly several Patents to his credit. There were also other researchers. U.S. patent 329,724 "Electric Earth Battery" describes one such device.
Furthermore,
http://www.google.com/patents?id=JbRkAAAAEBAJ&pg=PA2&zoom=4&dq=patent:155209&ie=ISO-8859-1&output=html
...describes U.S. Patent #155,209, which uses buried alternating zinc and copper rods connected electrically by wire in series to operate typical electrical devices in use at the time the patent was issued.
NOTE:
http://overunity.com/index.php?topic=6919.0
...has the description of several natural saltwater-and-different-metal types of batteries that work the same as what I give above. Both my battery and these saltwater ones will need to have their metallic electrodes periodically. They don't last forever, so low cost materials are definitely the way to go.
--Lee
the_big_m_in_ok
Here is a video of me lighting an 18", 15 watt tube from my earth battery:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fV-xjRy3I4
Check out my other earth battery videos there. I have lit 100 leds from this same set-up.
Bill
My earth battery lighting 200 leds:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLzdHRovnbo
Bill
Great stuff Pirate!
Im curious as to how much you paid for that 5 pound block of magnesium. The metal itself is not cheap.
Thank you. Yes, it is not cheap or, I have not found the right source for it. I payed about $45.00 US for that block. A friend of mine told me that I could have bought a lot of AA batteries for that. While that is true, all of those batteries would be dead one day, and hopefully, this will continue to work. Only time will tell. 2 years ago, I paid about $20 US for my carbon rod so I have about $65 tied up in this new set-up here total.
Bill
A buddy of mine on Youtube posted this and asked me to bring it to your attention:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mxa_G4X8Y7k&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mxa_G4X8Y7k&feature=related)
He did not film this and it is in some language I do not recognize but it is what appears to be an earth battery, joule thief, spark gap (Jeanna will like this) and God knows what else and they are lighting about a dozen incandescent bulbs from it.
It is a 7 part series (the link above is for part 1) and maybe someone here will be able to figure out what they are saying. It is very interesting to say the least. I can't quite figure out what they are doing even though I recognize some of the components.
Bill
Quote from: Pirate88179 on June 27, 2009, 03:10:47 AM
A buddy of mine on Youtube posted this and asked me to bring it to your attention:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mxa_G4X8Y7k&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mxa_G4X8Y7k&feature=related)
He did not film this and it is in some language I do not recognize but it is what appears to be an earth battery, joule thief, spark gap (Jeanna will like this) and God knows what else and they are lighting about a dozen incandescent bulbs from it.
It is a 7 part series (the link above is for part 1) and maybe someone here will be able to figure out what they are saying. It is very interesting to say the least. I can't quite figure out what they are doing even though I recognize some of the components.
Bill
On one of the videos there was this site address. but I cannot make it work from the place I live:
http://perpetualmotionholder.com/
Jesus
Quote from: nievesoliveras on June 27, 2009, 07:58:17 AM
On one of the videos there was this site address. but I cannot make it work from the place I live:
http://perpetualmotionholder.com/
I have edited the source code of the page. There is absolutely nothing refering to other pages. This site seems to be empty.
Quote from: exnihiloest on June 27, 2009, 08:30:22 AM
I have edited the source code of the page. There is absolutely nothing refering to other pages. This site seems to be empty.
Thank you @exnihiloest !
To enter today have been a victory. Every time I tried during the day I could not.
I think that the information that was inside that site was deleted and used to sell that airplane that is advertised there instead.
It is a pity that situation.
Jesus
the_big_m_in_ok said:
Quote
>>I bought plans from a particular mail order outfit that dealt with free energy years ago in the States.
What I did in a large vacant lot was: Start with the push-in-the-ground wire-and-paper advertising sign supports made of annealed (soft) steel wire. (Cheap and very common in America.) Then I found commercial aluminum pallet binding wire having an American wire gauge of around #2 gauge.
I found the plans I had bought posted on this thread: Reply #40, Page 5, "free_energy_from_the _earth_plans.pdf"
What I had was probably an earlier version of the plans, having bought them about 8-10 yrs ago. Then, with what I had, I modified the information to give me the results I had on Reply #55.
Hi all ,remember reading about placing the rods at different depths , look up your local magnetic declination/inclination and bury the rods according to it, that’s why nathan stubblefield lived on the side of a hill if I remember correctly, it also probably wouldn’t hurt to line them up according your local magnetic variation/deviation in north south terms also.
All brilliant stuff, good work by all.
Regards ,
Robbo
Robbo:
I have been telling folks that for years now...about the alignment. You are totally correct. Sure, a lot of times they still work but, to maximize the output, I have seen firsthand what good alignment on the north/south meridian and bottoms aligned to the dip angle for the area can do. Below is a video of me lighting 400 leds from my electrodes-supercap-joule thief circuit:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agqKEed7AOI
I can also light a 48" tube. I will be making more videos soon. I have a number of videos there showing what my EB set-up can do.
Bill
I have posted this in the other earth battery topics but I don't know if it has been posted here. This is a fantastic site that has a calculator to figure the magnetic declination and dip angle for any area on the planet. You just type in your info and it tells you what you need to know:
http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/geomagmodels/IGRFWMM.jsp (http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/geomagmodels/IGRFWMM.jsp)
Bill
Pirate88179, both your work and logic are brilliant, have you ever done a video walk through of that camera mod for your lights? , I have a low understanding of electronics but an fascinated by this facet of your work, I will start building that circuit when it makes a bit more sense ( not that you haven’t explained it well enough it’s just that I’m slow )
Respectfully yours,
Robbo
Robbo:
Thank you for your kind words. Just remember, I am not inventing anything here, I am just replicating and combining others previous work.
I have not made a tutorial on the modified Fuji circuit but, that is an excellent idea for a video. I have not figured out how to add still photos in my videos but I am sure my software can do it. That way, during the video, I can insert good close-up shots of the circuit board. It is really easy. I don't know all that much about electronics really, I am still learning here but, when I made my Fuji circuits, I knew even less. If you know how to solder, which is not hard, you will be set.
There are 2 different Fuji boards out there and I have only had success with the AA board. (they also make an AAA board) But, Jeanna in our group, found out how to tell which type is which by the outside of the camera so you can tell before you buy one. I will dig out all of that info and hopefully make this video soon.
Very good idea and I thank you for it.
Bill
Its a pleasure Bill , I have some research on earth batteries as well , I was into it a few years back when I lived out of town and had the room , I'm in the city now and have to settle for cells ;) , I did have a go at hooking an Ariel to one , the next day there was melted stuff everywhere so I take it that it works , it was over winter and I can't say it didn't get hit by lightning but.........
A friend's dad gave me some what looked like cheese cloth with a waxy finish , he said it was all the rage back when ppl built their own radios and stuff , but I have never seen any for sale , its what I used for the insulation , I saw a motor cycle that required a battery to run start while connected to it , it was funny as the guy with the bike said I was mad for believing in such rot ;) the look on his face is burned in ( all ways gives me a laugh ).
A point I wish to make to fellow members is that the oxide created on decomposition of the zinc is reclaimable , the best way I know of catching this is to wrap the zinc in moist felt ( think billiard table) it will last for years buried and holds any oxide that may build up. The felt also dose something with the way the ground “touches “ the zinc more contact area or something like that .
Formula : add a small quantity of carbon powder to the zinc oxide heat to 450 â€" 600 c â€" bingo!!! carbon dioxide and pure zinc , done in a solar oven to so it’s a clean process.
Something I was told but never tried was to use water in a rubber tube to join the rods in stead of wire , the guy that told me this had a roll of it , really flexible not like the small hoses on cars more like something medical , I will try and get the name of it .
Robbo.
HI Bill Have can you put a switch before the pos wire goes to the coil and quickly turned it off and on ? to see if the voltage out of the coil increases any disenable manner , I’m thinking a crystal radio and its antenna here
To quote from Wicka ( that great source of truth ;))
“ The long wire type antennas often used with crystal radios are Monopole
antennas. To receive signals from this type of antenna, a ground reference is
needed to provide a place for the antenna signal electricity to flow into and
out of. Because crystal radios have no other source of power than the electrical
power they receive from the antenna, the grounds for crystal radios must be much
better than those used by amplified radios.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crystal_radio#Attempts_at_recovering_RF_carrier_pow
And ,
The antenna
"A monopole antenna is a type of radio antenna formed by replacing one half of a
dipole antenna with a ground plane at right-angles to the remaining half. If the
ground plane is large enough, the monopole behaves exactly like a dipole, as if
its reflection in the ground plane formed the missing half of the dipole"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monopole_antenna
has anyone tried using half of an electric motor ( every second winding ) with
the above connected to the rest ? , sort of like that John Bedeni fan thiggie
that charges batteries and keeps you cool for nix , was just wondering if this
would be a way of doing it , they used a 100 foot or something like that of
arieal and seem to have been able to know what they would get from it .
So one long vertical wire in the air and another buried at the ¼ wave length
blah blab blah , and as the power is coming from the ether anyway and its in
Wicka we are not breaking any thermo dynamic laws laws , or twisting any noses ;)
Doesn't this ether power recover/recharge as quick as you can flick the circuits , to quote again : " Although crystal radios are designed to detect AM, they also frequently detect FM fairly well which is in the 100 MHz range." hmmm ?
seems that way with a crystal radio.
the faster you flick that switch the more you get ?
And could post a link to a quick schematic of how you are doing an earth cell just want to see if you are doing as we were .
Robbo
Hi robbo,
I don't know about the rest of it, but yes,
when you flick the switch you will get more.
In a changing magnetic field the electricity flows through a wire.
If the changing magnetic field changes faster, you get more.
If the magnet crosses the wire more times (a coil) it gives more.
what else?
There are more things, but those 2 are what I am using all the time in my work with the joule thief and earth battery experiments.
thank you,
jeanna
Youtuber oglundasotarn has a "Dirt Battery" connected to a joule thief driving 3 white LEDs.
;D
http://tinyurl.com/nxp2er
If you are a farmer and has land available, you can save a lot on your electricity bill.
A typical earth battery produces 20 milliamps and 1.5 volts. If the farmer build 50 earth batteries side by side with a spacing of 1 meter from each other, and connect the earth batterys in paralel, on 50 meters he has 1 ampere extracted from the telluric currents induced be Earth's magnetosphere (according to Wikipedia).
If the farmer build 500 batteries connected in parallel, in 500 meters he will have 20 amps.
If he connects 10 of that "20 amps cells" in series, he will have 15 volts.
Since earth batteries are not so expensive to build, and can last for a lifetime with just some low cost maintenance, it may make sense for a farmer to build this array.
He can further rationalize the system by creating different sets of Earth batteries: some with more volts and less amps (to supply things like lighting) and others with less volts and more amps (to supply personal computers, for example).
"If the farmer build 500 batteries connected in parallel, in 500 meters he will have 20 amps"
I mean, he will have 10 (TEN) AMPS ;D.
In reallity with a huge 1000 x 2000 metters array he can have 150 volts x 40 amps!
If the wires are 2 meters above the ground, you can have a crop bellow the wires.
Unless the eletromagnetic radiation kill the plants...
OK, I need to ask:
Has anyone managed to connect two earth batteries in series and proved that the volts of each battery were added?
Has anyone managed to connect two earth batteries in paralel and proved that the amps of each battery were added?
Quote from: Rapadura on February 21, 2010, 08:27:01 PM
"If the farmer build 500 batteries connected in parallel, in 500 meters he will have 20 amps"
I mean, he will have 10 (TEN) AMPS ;D.
In reallity with a huge 1000 x 2000 metters array he can have 150 volts x 40 amps!
1 sq. mile = 3,097,600 sq. yards.
2000000 sq. meters is almost that.
You'll need a farm or ranch in the country for this to be feasible. Most people don't have that kind of money or wherewithal to build or manage such a system.
--Lee
Quote from: Rapadura on February 21, 2010, 09:55:31 PM
OK, I need to ask:
Has anyone managed to connect two earth batteries in series and proved that the volts of each battery were added?
Has anyone managed to connect two earth batteries in paralel and proved that the amps of each battery were added?
Hi Rapadura I did two earth batteries and connected them in parallel and yes it seems that amperage will double. My earth batteries are not very efficient I can say but I'm noticing increase in voltage everyday. If one make them according to many guys did here in this forum they will acquire much more than I did cause I only used copper and aluminium in mine and one of them put a little steel wire.
Thanks
I hope some day someone posts a video on YouTube showing a 45 watt fan running at maximum speed, powered only by an array of earth batteries.
That should be cool!
Quote from: madwizard on May 28, 2006, 03:48:14 AM
http://www.site-city.net/internett/softnice/tech/free_energy/free_energy_from_the_earth_plans.pdf
http://www.site-city.net/internett/softnice/tech/free_energy/homemade_battery_plans.pdf
:)
how come i can't open the first file? i'd like to try this experiment but everytime i download it kept saying that the file is damaged and cannot be opened. thanks.
Quote from: winn1971 on June 28, 2010, 09:25:06 PM
how come i can't open the first file? i'd like to try this experiment but everytime i download it kept saying that the file is damaged and cannot be opened. thanks.
That file is:
http://www.site-city.net/internett/softnice/tech/free_energy/free_energy_from_the_earth_plans.pdf
Alright, the file is gone. I see a blank white screen. This is probably the reason:
http://fliiby.com/file/247453/q8gzttlqru.html
Someone complained about copyright infringement.
--Lee
Quote from: the_big_m_in_ok on June 28, 2010, 10:22:49 PM
That file is:
http://www.site-city.net/internett/softnice/tech/free_energy/free_energy_from_the_earth_plans.pdf
Alright, the file is gone. I see a blank white screen. This is probably the reason:
http://fliiby.com/file/247453/q8gzttlqru.html
Someone complained about copyright infringement.
LATER REEDIT:The second time I tried it, the error message said, in effect:
"The file is corrupt and cannot be repaired."Same thing in the end.
--Lee
Lol
I guess im getting banned but you cant build a earth
battery like mine unlimited ac dc and amps and
I got arrested for it and its now smashed
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzQVpsMllrc&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Hi Cletus,
Can you please show us your earth battery pulling a load, like an LED or Fluorescent? I have yet to see your batteries do any work. Maybe I haven't seen all your videos? Anyway, if you have a video where you are pulling a load with your set up, I'd like to see it.
Blessings,
Littlechristgod
@all
The file Free energy from the earth plans I got, is posted for the benefit of all at:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=436
Jesus
No im sorry I can not demostrate the load
not because I dont want to but because the earth
battery is now smashed
but even if i rebuilt it I dont know how to
build the electrical circuit to demonstrate
what you want because the ac and dc
were exact same without seperating the
dc with a jouel theif type circuit
the they swap perfectly you do have to start the flow
Im working on the house grid now since i discovered
tesla 369 charged the earth grounding rod
eliminating the need for the battery
although its cool and good for places with no
power grid you can get free energy
by plugging a dc iphone charger into the wall
go from neutral to ground you have 30
volts free
a higer watt dc charger gives you
move volts go thru the car coil gives you
more watts i think i discovered a burned out
nicad converts the dc and ac opposite
exactly but its only been 10 min i need equipment to test
but think about it like this when a battery dies
it does not stop taking energy from
the alternator it is converting the energy to ac
that ac is then going to the ground the frame and
back thru the air so the energy is always flowing
the dc nicad to the wall flows ac thru perfectly
to the razor and dc from the ground rod
so there is essentialy no loss well thats the
story and im sticking to it till I prove it wrong its working
so how does a dewalt 19 volt battery transmit
120 ac thru it theres no short i ohm it out
Hi cletushowell can you please explain more when you said: by plugging a dc iphone charger into the wall go from neutral to ground you have 30
volts free a higher watt dc charger gives you more volts go thru the car coil gives you more watts.
Interesting if this is true.
I will try plug a iphone charger or any dc charger
in your combining ac and dc on neutral
side oscilating it with the black power side
between the neutral and ground is 37 volts ac or so
on a 5 v dc charger your not using power
step the dc up to a say computer charger you get stuck
at 60 v ac the oscilation of the hz
take that to a car coil it transmits wireless inside the coil
some how reverse the points its overlimit ac
unlimted energy
so 60 volts unlimted wireslessy on the
neutral
now go 120 to three car coils
bridge the post take six wires to
a motor run it now you have
120 and 60
but also dc two my coils fried
my system is down it was powering a drill
and radio its combining the hz in the coil
essentialy filling the gaps in the hz
its pretty complicated to explain heres the videos
i made my own ground using my square wave
Check out this video on YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYJaYEIEgaw&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Check out this video on YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjADPX-q1tg&feature=youtube_gdata_player
email me direct if you have questions
they get mad when i post here
ch@helpuflip.com
question here
i made a pot scruber battery like lidmotor did in the yard worked good..
then i had two scrubers left so i found a plastic coffee container and put them in it..
copper on bottom and dirt then steel one then dirt.. but i mixed some iron filings with my dirt before i put it together..
then came plain tap water.. city water.. nothing in it no salt no nothing..
voltage check = 0.45 volts normal
amp check = 5.4 ma's normal
so i put 2 more ounces.. water
15 mins later no voltage.. nothing.. but
the container is warm to the touch.. ??
i told my wife she felt it and said whats causing that..
is this normal ?? it is starting to get a little kooler..
first time i ever mixed iron to my dirt before..
any clues .. please
robbie
Robbie:
I am not clear. Was your can buried in the ground?
Bill
Quote from: kooler on September 25, 2010, 11:16:34 PM
question here
i made a pot scruber battery like lidmotor did in the yard worked good..
then i had two scrubers left so i found a plastic coffee container and put them in it..
copper on bottom and dirt then steel one then dirt.. but i mixed some iron filings with my dirt before i put it together..
then came plain tap water.. city water.. nothing in it no salt no nothing..
voltage check = 0.45 volts normal
amp check = 5.4 ma's normal
so i put 2 more ounces.. water
15 mins later no voltage.. nothing.. but
the container is warm to the touch.. ??
i told my wife she felt it and said whats causing that..
is this normal ?? it is starting to get a little kooler..
first time i ever mixed iron to my dirt before..
any clues .. please
robbie
Heya Robbie
OK, get ready to switch the mind to the 'organic' side man. ;D
What are your feelings or beliefs on Orgone/Orgonite? I think what you MIGHT be sensing is not true 'thermal' heat (as registered by instruments) but a organic interaction between your nervous system and the 'organite mix' within the can which is emitting FIR (and then translated by your nervous system as heat). It explains why you are not reading any voltage.
There is a TRUE science behind it that is not well understood and very difficult to tap.
Regards
E-Goose
Quote from: kooler on September 25, 2010, 11:16:34 PM
....l
so i put 2 more ounces.. water
15 mins later no voltage.. nothing.. but
the container is warm to the touch.. ??....
any clues .. please
robbie
In the winter the hardware store sells handwarmers.
These things have some very simple ingredients and iron powder is one of them.
You added water.
These are sealed and when air mixes they turn hot.
When they stop working they smell a little like rust.
Maybe you have found the secret ingredient mix for hand warmers?
I realize this is not an answer.
...more like another question.
jeanna
jeanna
it was potting soil.. so it might be something they put in it ??
so what i found out about this setup is don't put iron or steel filings in your earth batterys..lol
it is now dried out abit and it putting out a worthless current..
0.226 volts
0.23 ma's
the container was 78.5 degrees ( i checked it with my laser heat gun)
oh well maybe i will get lucky my next adventure..
robbie
Robbie:
Check out Lasersaber's topic. he has told us to ignore the volts and mA's and only look for the magnetic properties.
He has been running his motor for months now with a coil that has little or no voltage output, but generates a good magnetic field. Maybe yours does too?
Bill
Hi All, I am new to the site but I already feel I owe many of you a word of thanks... This has been a long term interest of mine and recently a passion, and the work and due process happening here is truly amazing and inspiring.
A near term project I wish to look into further tweaking are the Earth battery outdoor grids. I am an electrician living North of the Arctic circle and this may play an interesting role in this system. Much of the housing here incorporates steel piles that are driven 60+ feet into the permafrost. I can very easily Hilti electrical grade copper rods 10 feet into the ground which would reach the permafrost too.
My electrical theory is severely lacking but this is something I will be remedying very quickly, I used to mess around with 555 timer circuits and bread boards as a kid and I know I have a flair to fast learning and independent thought... I have found a TON of information on this board and many thanks for that, I expect near zero sleep for weeks to come... What effects if any do you think permafrost and being so far North may have on this system, any thought ideas or suggested reading will be appreciated too.
Quote from: kooler on September 28, 2010, 11:55:24 PM
jeanna
it was potting soil.. so it might be something they put in it ??
so what i found out about this setup is don't put iron or steel filings in your earth batterys..lol
it is now dried out abit and it putting out a worthless current..
0.226 volts
0.23 ma's
the container was 78.5 degrees ( i checked it with my laser heat gun)
oh well maybe i will get lucky my next adventure..
robbie
Hi Kooler this was really cool that the container was 78.5 degrees. This can be used as a heater. That was a metal reaction type between copper and iron with filings.
Nice find thanks for sharing.
Quote from: lust4life on August 18, 2011, 04:52:43 PM
My electrical theory is severely lacking.
If you don't know this, you may find it useful:
http://www.free-energy-info.com/
Particularly Chapters 12 and 16.
Paul-R
For some reason i never lose interest in these things.
If enough of us had enough of them, energy would be a non-issue....
But alas, i did not revive the original Earth Battery thread to reminisce....
Rather i would like to discuss a new application.
We know we can charge capacitors with this technology.
What i propose is possibly dangerous, could be worthless may be worth exploring....
But for now, let us engage in thought.
The earth has a calculated capacity of 710 microfarads.
This may seem like a lot but i assure you this is trivial.
With my personal collection over the past decade since i last lost my lab,
combined with that I inherited from TK upon his retirement....
I am sitting on 7.3 MegaFarads
So 710 micro is nothing in the scheme of life.
Let us imagine a circuit, an C-C resonator.
One side being our array of capacitors adding up to 710uf
and the other side the earth.
We charge our side using earth batteries over however long that takes.
Then let it oscillate for however long it is willing to do so.
Noone interested in building an 'Earth Ringer'?
I[size=0px]nterested? Yes[/size]
[size=0px]Committed to build? No. . . [/size]
yes please let us see what it is thanks