I tryed it but im not seeing any rotation Question ???!! does the bearings have to be free turning with out much drag ...I think i need to use better bearings ???
when i get it qa spin it turns 2 times then stops ....not good :(
I ll post a pic off my machine maybe by looking at it you can spot any design flaws
thanks
when I looked at the top pic i notice that the batter leads are connected to the same part of the shaft ... would this cause it to short?
hmmmm .... I think the coils are to far from the center maybe also :-\
Quote from: potatogunman on July 13, 2007, 10:47:31 PM
hmmmm .... I think the coils are to far from the center maybe also :-\
I think you're right. It's best to have the coil as close to the centerline as possible. :)
is there anybody thats use's Skatboard bearings? what is the I.D and the O.D of these bearings ? im hoping for a 3/8 I.D .... so I could use a 3/8 steel rod
Would Stainless steel rod work as well ?
Quote from: potatogunman on July 14, 2007, 08:37:54 PM
is there anybody thats use's Skatboard bearings? what is the I.D and the O.D of these bearings ? im hoping for a 3/8 I.D .... so I could use a 3/8 steel rod
Would Stainless steel rod work as well ?
Skateboard bearings are OK, but they're an oddball size to find shafts for. 3/8 is a good universal size to use. Bearings are easy to find and there are a lot of variety of shafts.
You don't want a steel shaft since it will distort the magnetic field. Aluminum is cheap and easy to use and is one of my favorites. Stainless would probably work but it's very expensive and unnecessary.
I take it back what I said about concentrating the windings around the center. :-[
I wrapped my windings a little tighter today trying to tidy up a bit and it made a big difference in the efficiency of the motor. The motor runs OK but drains the battery like a normal motor. I only got about 3 hours on a 9 volt where I usually get around 10.
So I spread out the coil so it was taller than the rotor magnet, which then restored it's original efficiency.
There is definitely an optimal wrap size for these motors. I don't know what it is yet but I'm going to try a few different configurations.
Ted
Well i stripped my newman machine down ..i m going to start over...this week im going to get some good high speed 3/8 I.D bearings and a Shaft.
i think i can score a psc of Stainless rod 316 grade for free.... i guess it would work seeing it dosent Magnetize....but it will conduct electric!!
back to the drawing board ;D
hello all!!! i ve finally made my neuman machine ive tryed wiring it up the same way as that schimatic on the replica page here is a drawing of how its run at the moment
is it right or is it operating as a regular moter
ill post a video tonight ;D
:o two seperate coils on the newman motor!? thats not my understanding, or is this a variation?
I meant electrically seperated.
sorry for the mix up at the moment the red coil on my drawing is disconected ,im just running the blue one, I will post a clip later tonight for you all to see!
so far my battery readings are --
7:00am this moning 1.388 volts
"now" 5:30 (canadian time) 1.265 volts
in 10 1/2 hours it consumed 0.123 volts on a D battery ;D
i wish my ipod could do that hehehehe ;D
Quote from: potatogunman on July 13, 2007, 10:45:42 PM
when I looked at the top pic i notice that the batter leads are connected to the same part of the shaft ... would this cause it to short?
Well, the picture above:
new5.jpg
is badly drawn.
It is only a principle circuit to show a commutator, not the real wiring.
The most simple commutator is a On Tap switch , which switches on
the coil at the same angle location inside the coil at every revolution
for a few degrees and gives it just a push this way to rotate on.
yess that is what im using a tape switch works great!!!
here is a clip of my replication
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8qXyvT2GnQ
Great work, but if you want spaghetti check out mine ;D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgjTShgptjU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgjTShgptjU)
I'll rate yours as soon as Youtube gets its act together and finishes maintenance!
very nice RunningBare !! Im still unsure that i have my wiring correct ? how is your wiring configured? i might have to change mine a bit . Can some one help me with the wiring ? much help needed thxxx
It looks like your commutator arrangement is incorrect, first off there is only one wire from battery to commutator, the other terminal of the battery
- goes straight to one of the coil connections.
the lead from battery to commutator should be directly connected to a conducting part of the shaft, then the other lead from the coil is placed against the part where you have the adhesive tape (I assume the tape breaks the contact while rotating), you should know that as the wire comes off the contact part onto the insulation tape that arcing will occure and will cut through the tape eventually.
Quote from: potatogunman on July 26, 2007, 12:06:55 AM
very nice RunningBare !! Im still unsure that i have my wiring correct ? how is your wiring configured? i might have to change mine a bit . Can some one help me with the wiring ? much help needed thxxx
great tip RunningBare!! i will try it ...as soon as i get back from work.. thanks for your help! :) much Appreciated !!!
this is what you mean right? ive tryed it but im not getting any charging yet .. maybe i need to make the coil longer?
Quote from: potatogunman on July 27, 2007, 01:01:26 PM
this is what you mean right? ive tryed it but im not getting any charging yet .. maybe i need to make the coil longer?
Have you changed the point at which the contact is made with respect to the magnets position? Timing is very important with these motors.
yes check out my video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3OXlos0cPc
is there another way to position the contact point with the black tape? ???
ive tryed a 9volt battery on this wiring configuration and it seems that at the start the magnet spins fast ,then at about 4 min in the battery starts to get warm
then its stops ??? at the start the battery read 8.70volts and when it stoped it read 8.60 ??? ...its has power but it wont spin it. but when i leave the battery to cool in starts back up again ??? any ideas?
Can you measure the current?
If the battery is getting warm and losing power then I would say the coil resistance is too low, how many turns of wire? can you measure the DC resistance of the coil?
Quote from: potatogunman on July 27, 2007, 09:22:01 PM
ive tryed a 9volt battery on this wiring configuration and it seems that at the start the magnet spins fast ,then at about 4 min in the battery starts to get warm
then its stops ??? at the start the battery read 8.70volts and when it stoped it read 8.60 ??? ...its has power but it wont spin it. but when i leave the battery to cool in starts back up again ??? any ideas?
the tube im using is 4"dia but im not sure how many turns, maybe ..150..200 with 20ga wire....i measure the resistance its is 004.8 ohms :-\ here's a video of my problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoQdZUILe8s
Hi,
you need much more wire in your setup.
The DCresistance should be around 200 to 300 Ohms
in your configuration,so try to get more wire and add it
onto your coil. Just use the same 20 gauge wire, but add a few
thousand windings until you get around 200 to 300 Ohms
DC resistance.
Then your battery also will not die.
Also try to place the tape on your axis onto a different angle,
so the spark will be bigger.
It depends on when you switch on ( fire) where the position of the magnet is
inside the coil.
Go for lower RPM and more sparking.
This will generate more back current pulses during the sparking and keep
your battery fresh.
Also you can then try to put an 1 to 3 Watt incandescent lamp in
series with your coil.
Woah!
If you intend running off a PP3 9 volt battery, then your coil resistance must be much higher!
9 volts / 004.8 ohms = 1.875 amps, thats wayyy over a PP3 batteries limit
I've got approx 720 turns of single core telephone wire on mine giving approx 23.3 ohms, I would not attempt to even put a PP3 on that!
As has already been pointed out, you need in my opinion at least 2000 turns, I think 20 gauge is a little thick, but you don't want it much thinner either as this will cause DC resistance to rise and most of the energy will be lost to heat dissipation.
Quote from: potatogunman on July 28, 2007, 02:22:24 PM
the tube im using is 4"dia but im not sure how many turns, maybe ..150..200 with 20ga wire....i measure the resistance its is 004.8 ohms :-\ here's a video of my problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoQdZUILe8s
i some how stumbled along your thred and i think it is awsome ok butt
i have given the newman motor generator much thought and this is what i think and for give me if it has been already covered some where he uses copper pipes in his big generator right so there are round magnets inside of it and the weight of the magnet helps to offset any restance torque it uses gravity aswell i thought that the magnets free ride inside the copper pipes and work similar to a gravity motor but agin this in my opinion
i have not built it but i spent some time in the past working out how it all worked or how it made sence to me
keep up the good work
is