Overunity.com Archives

Hi guys,

This is my first post so HI EVERYBODY! lol anyway i have been reading alot
on generating HHO and im really interested and wanting to give it a shot
using something similar ravzz/lawtons work.

Unfortunately for me im a novice when it comes to electronics and
im not machinist (actually a programmer) so find the actual electronic parts
is proving harder than expected (well online anyway).

The list in d14 is rather broad so im wondering if anyone could give me actual
part numbers of the electronics required for the DC pulse circuit as shown in
d14?

It would save me heaps of time if someone could  do this because then i would
know exactly what im looking for, for example it says 100ohm resistor, i goto
mouser, type that in and i get carbon film, metal film, meh i dunno which is
better worse for this circuit so yeah you get the idea if someone could list the
part numbers and/or suggest a site i can figure it out easily that would be awesome!

I dont think i will have a problem with circuit construction when i have the parts its
just getting them that is my main problem. I also thought this might help other electronic noobs like me

Thanks
Pete

Radio Shack should have what you need. I was just there picking up some 555 myself.

yeah im going to one of the australian alternatives on thursday night to see what i can find but this would still help as well

anyway i will see how i go on thur night

I posted the very list yer asking for somewhere on O U.  I'll search for it and post it here when I find it.

"Mouser invoice " ANd "keithturtle" should turn up somethin'

Turtle

found it at http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=2688.0;topicseen

Enjoy.  It took me two hours to sort thru them parts.

legend this is exactly what i was looking for,

i will check what i need from this list compared to the parts list

thanks again!!!! i have no idea what im doing but this will make it a little easier lol

Ya won't need everything on the list, 'specially the chip resistors (I don't know much, either) jes check against Dave's parts list.  The MOSFETS are comparable, but once you get to Mouser.com y'all can pick cheaper ones.

Turtle

ok went to shops think i got most of it but a few things i need to check

1.) The mF for the capacitors does that translate directly to uF?? From the guy at
the store it generally does?
2.) The black ring on a diode does that directly translate to the black line in the circuit
diagram? (So i can get it around the right way) Im guessing it does?
3.) The four pole 3 way switches, my four poles are all in the middle, the drawing
has 3 poles on top 1 in middle, does it matter which way i wire this up? Or does
it translate that pole D is the middle pole or something?
4.) The inductors, how do i got about winding them? What technique do i use etc?

Thanks again

SaintP;

1- usually.
2- I think so, the triangle points same as current flow.
3- It matters a great deal.  Use Ohmmeter or continuity check to follow the schematic.
4-Buy 'em if you can.   I built a winder but ain't used it yet, still not quite done.  Two keys in winding... keep wire tight, and even layers.   Might use thick CA glue at the end of each row then after it sets, start back the other direction.   Thaere a lot to it.   Spend some time researching it.   Otherpower.com has much on it.

Turtle

Thanks turtle,

Also withh bridges i am just using normal wire thats fine isnt it

Make sure it's heavy enough gage to carry max amp loads.

I never load a bridge at rating for more than a few seconds, and have a heat sink bolted to it.  Run a fan if ye git a big rise in temp.

Turtle

sorry maybe im using wrong terminology

umm i meant like a bit to link bits of the circuit together, on the diagram
its just straight black lines that arent components

so i just used copper wire to link them

does that make sense?

I use 22 ga insulated solid copper fer them.  Ah yes, "bridges" the components together.   Don't know the proper term myself.

Turtle

hmm dunno what gauge it is oh well if they melt it is wrong lol!

Hi,

I have been looking at the d14 page 7 circuit too.
I find it a bit too much, just generating some square wave functions, cause this curcuit will do the job better, and the price tag is very reasonable (http://cgi.ebay.com/PC-Interface-PWM-Control-Hydrogen-motors-and-More_W0QQitemZ280146686687QQihZ018QQcategoryZ78190QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem).

Only problem to me is that the guy doesn't ship outside the US.

Would anybody bee so kind to purchase 2 + 1 ditto kit (http://cgi.ebay.com/PC-Interface-PWM-Control-Hydrogen-motors-KIT_W0QQitemZ280146686719QQihZ018QQcategoryZ78190QQcmdZViewItem) of these and ship them to Denmark?

I'll pay up front, and extra for the inconvenience (I would pay extra shipping to Denmark, and put in extra for a curcuit for you).

Please leave a PM if you would do me the favor.

Thanking in advance
SwinG

hah that is pretty cool you would still need the inductors though im guessing...

bifiler hmm.. think i read somewhere in his stuff about this

might have a look for it again since i havent done anything with this yet
im still trying to understand it all...

schematic would be cool just to see how hard / easy it is!

QuoteI can find and post the schematic for mine, I think I added RS232 as well?  But you would need to get a programmer to program the PIC chip.  This I went 12F683 (8 pin with ADC, $1.20 range in the US)

That would be great  ;D
It would be a lot easier with a PCB layout too, but you can't have everything, can you  ;)
I would still need the PIC SW though. Is it possible for you to grab that, and send in a *.bin file or something? Don't know if you have access to a PIC programmer, to DL the SW. I'll find a way to program the bastard then  :D

What I need:

• PCB layout
• Parts diagram
• Parts list
• PIC soft ware

Actually I would rather have someone send me the circuit. It's a bit unfair to exploit a good souls hard works, isn't it?
Anyway, when I can't get it shipped to Denmark, I'm leaved with few choices.

Let's get these replications going  ;D ;D ;D


Thanks
SwinG

                   NEW UPDATED  D14-Sept '04

Posted a few minutes ago on radianth2o group

I've uploaded the updated attachment in Stanley Meyer Replication thread

:o               :o               :o


Gh. J.

so what about cutting of the steel tubes?

what do people use to cut the tubes angle grinders, bansaws, hacksaws, jigsaws??

and what is most effective in giving smoothest cut?

Y'all can use a chop saw or grinder, jes be sure to clean yer cuts good.   The heat will cause a disruption in the magnetic properties, mostly on 304, so annealing is recommented for the purist.

I've used both 304 and 316L in the tubes and plates.
316L stays cleaner.

I ain't that pure so I jes put it together after getting it all the same color and passivation.

Turtle

what is passivation?

Boiled in acid.   The process uses acid to remove any traces of Fe in the surface of yer pipes / plates.  Then when ye run 'em they don't turn brown.

Big in the food industry so SS doesn't contaminate food with traces of rust.

Iron cain'toxidise if it ain't there.
I use a one-step process and a chemical called citrisurf.

http://www.stellarsolutions.net/2050data.htm

SOak 11 min at 80-'C then rinse with distilled water.  Handle plates with gloved hands forever thereafter [no skin oils]

Turtle

oh ok so thats similar to the idea of annealing?

Pete

not really.  Annealing is a heat process, where passivationg uses chemical action to git rid of free Fe.  The heat jes accellerates it.  It would work cold, jes slower.

Annealing helps when, after "working" a piece, residual magnetic fields are eliminated.

Fe (free iron) is what turns the water brown and precipitates to the bottom.

Keith