Please post all here.
A Fisher and Paykel Smartdrive motor out of a junked washing machine makes an excellent
415V AC generator to couple to the RV for producing up to 1.5KW of power. I can also be stepped down to produce 240V or 110V.
http://www.sustainability.ofm.uwa.edu.au/__data/page/83884/FP.pdf
Instruction on how to modify the wiring is there.
Also here: http://www.randysworkshop.com/
Hi Ash,
Has anyone in the RV community managed an over unity set-up using this?
Rich
Hi Rich,
No sorry, no one has tested these yet, i have three here and am ATM looking at getting them re enforced for the RV, Hector has an idea to put them where the fan went as a loop whilst Freq driving a generator.
As far as RV OU goes, the most creditable source and report we have is the Neon switcher done by an open sourced engineer in France, (this can still add to that system to produce power) He has reported it being able to charge a secondary battery with no reflection to the battery driving it, (self running).
The Neon switcher has been posted a few times and is an easy circuit to replicate which clips the peak sine waves off the resonance. Still you need a suitable generator to produce power even if getting that circuit done.
I find this to be the cheapest PM Gen to use ATM.
"As far as RV OU goes, the most creditable source and report we have is the Neon switcher done by an open sourced engineer in France, (this can still add to that system to produce power) He has reported it being able to charge a secondary battery with no reflection to the battery driving it, (self running)." ~ Ashtweth
@Anyone
Anyone know of any report with actual data and numbers and measurements and test methods on this report of overunity? I looked at the one reference Ashtweth gave but found no real "report" that said anything more than the claim itself as he states it above. The clear implication "(self-running)" says to me that the rate of charge on the one battery would need to be greater than the discharge rate of battery running the RV. So I wonder if the loop was actually closed and it actually self ran?
It seems like there should be something somewhere that talks about how much free energy was delivered to the battery and at what rate and how it was shown that there was no reflection to the other battery. It sounds like Ashtweth is telling us that this person was getting free mechanical torque and also producing a net positive electrical energy from a self-running machine. That it would not only self-run but would forever charge batteries that were swapped around.
Is Ashtweth the only information source on this incredible claim and is the statement of the claim itself the totality of the report? Anyone have anything from any other source on this matter? Maybe something directly from the fellow making the claims? I'm really very curious.
I can't ask Ashtweth directly because he won't speak to me or acknowledge me but it seems like this is an important claim and it should be explained in more detail with some data and all that. Anybody else have info or agree we need this clarified better as a claim?
Humb
@Hamburger, humblebee, Humbugger
I'm a vegetarian.
So, I do not waste my time posting in some 'meat-eating' forum. They, of course, do what they want.
My question is: What the f' heck are you bl..dy doing here?
Do you think the 'OU' supporters are so stupid?
Best?
Have you ever lived through a blizzard or hurricane? When water is needed and your well does not come because of no electricity and no fuel is available for the generator you soon realize a TRUE answer is needed and not a politically correct debate. I understand him and everyone that survived through Katrina would as well. Results are what is needed, not incorrect measurements or "just a little more tuning."
A real device is needed, Hum understands this.
Rich
P.S. I was a vegetarian for 8 years...
And i eat 10% ORGANIC meat and train 4 days a week at the gym.
Rich what is your Question?, there is no political debate here, if you have a genuine question i am happy to answer and provide reference, all references are provided to the materials posted in this thread and in the compilations, unless any one wants to suffer the same fate as you know who, i suggest you keep your skepticism, incessant drivel and lack of LAB tests to your self thanks.
Hi Ash,
I have no quam with you, but when someone posts and attacks a member that is abit harsh but is obviously highly intelligent and knows what to look for..... I don't appreciate it. The beauty of an o/u device is it should be just that...o/u. When numbers do not add-up we need to accept this and move on. I would never be acceptable as a supervisor because in my job results are not desired, they are demanded on a daily basis. If I do not produce, or explain why a trouble was not cleared in a timely manner then I lose my job.....simple as that. Once you've entered into that mind set for 7 years you come to a new understanding of what is expected...there is no gray area any more. When hundreds of millions of dollars depend on your job being performed right, you try your best and you can bet I will make my equipment work one way or another with no customer ever knowing he was very close to loosing all communications in a given area with millions of dollars on the line in stock market as well as bank data being lost.
We have to get a free energy device or the world is simply doomed by polution and slavery to the energy industry, that's all....nothing much really at stake.
Just keep on trying Ash, I promise I will buddy!
Rich
EDIT
What earned your friend the status has gone over your head, so dont make the same mistake Rich.
All references have been provided and measuring techniques, as you have not researched them and or verified them/disproved them the lab, you will earn yourself the same status by me, to those that do it wont really matter , you may be able to find the advice you need with out my help,
It doesn't really matter to me, the RV is may not for you[those referenced] and is certainly is not for your Friend who tries to explain OU by conventional theories and does not build a thing to disprove it.and cannot read the references, this is the last post of this nature i will be answering.
http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,2487.msg47406.html#msg47406
Read this it seems this friend cant read and back up what he says.
Any Genuine Questions may either be sent to me off list , where i can directly report from the engineers who did the tests and circuits and or here. Thanks.
please stay on topic, i have sent your request to some RV engineers i know, mean time you have a solution posted here
http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,3229.0.html
Quote from: oouthere on September 10, 2007, 10:25:00 PM
Hi Ash,
Has anyone in the RV community managed an over unity set-up using this?
Rich
Rich, the idea I have is to couple this Gen to the RV where the fan went and
FREQ drive it.Couple another F and P motor to the shaft under load loop back the Gen where the fan is.
F and P------RV-----coupled F and P gen-Load
If any thing i expect it more efficient then any motor Gen for that price, more Freq driving of the RV and this efficient Gen needs testing.
"As far as RV OU goes, the most creditable source and report we have is the Neon switcher done by an open sourced engineer in France, (this can still add to that system to produce power) He has reported it being able to charge a secondary battery with no reflection to the battery driving it, (self running)." ~ Ashtweth's exact words from this very thread
So...lots of hateful put-downs and some open threats to other members of ostracism and an unspecified "fate" that Astweth apparently has the power to mete out to the unfaithful. Shades of the Inquisition! Believe or be punished! Accept what I say without question!
Plus three descriptions of members' personal diets past and present and Ashtweth's weekly workout schedule...and his accusations of others going off-topic!
No answers to the simple straightforward totally on-topic questions: "I wonder what he means by "(self-running)"? Is there an actual report? Is there any corroboration? Anyone heard about this from another source?".
Can anyone offer any further information on this "reported report" of a "(self-running)" rotoverter?
Humbugger ~ On Topic and Still Curious
Other suggestions are the Ecklin Brown magnetic interrupter Gen to couple to the RV Prime mover.
@Ashtweth
Over in the old thread on the Chas gravity wheel, you requested anyone find for you the Stefan post regarding resistor loads. Here it is.
http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,2487.msg47830.html#msg47830
Humbugger
"Hi all
Thought of this the other day - it should be simple - just attach a
nice no-load alternator/generator to the wheel of a small lightweight
trailer, stuff it with batteries and tow it behind an electric
car...throw some solar panels on top too to keep the rain out and
disquise andything OU.....
ciao"
I don't want to take credit for this really cool new idea. It comes from Doug Konzen aka Konehead over at the EVGray Yahoo Group. I can't seem to get any good info over there about these "no-load alternator/generator" things he refers to, though. Seems like if you could get one of those, there would be lots of neat ways to run it, seeing as how it poses no mechanical load and apparently puts out as much power as you like.
Does anybody know where to get plans or buy one of these special new generator/alternators? What's the story on these? How do they work? What determines how much power you can get out of them if not how much work you put into the shaft? Is this for real? I gotta have one!
Linda
G'day Linda,
Just ask Robert Jackson, he knows where to find them. Pity he does not tell us where we can buy one.
Hans von Lieven
Hans, Please let it go let's not judge or criticize anymore it is non productive. I don' t want to compete against you. This negativity drains me. Robert Jackson
mramos
I am not sure if you tried what I had suggested but if you did not then you can not say it does not work based on what you posted you tried with your fan. Throwing random caps at something does not do anything. You had stated you used a ?standard? cap value you thought most RV?s used. I have not read this whole thread to see if you tried my advise or not. Reading your last post I would guess you have not. You need to find the proper cap value for your particular motor in a minimum of .5uf steps. There is not a universal cap value. Power savings with these systems is the first step. Posting something does not work when you essentially tried nothing. I posted what I have done and it works every time on the motors I have tried.
Unless you tried a cap bank, you are writing the whole thing off without trying it. Like the guy who built ?Phil?s circuit?, he altered it then said it did not work. How do you guys expect to build anything that ?works? if you can not build it the way the ?inventor? of something said to do it?
As far as the RV:
I think many people have the wrong idea what the intentions of this machine is for and what it is supposed to do. Just like people building the Bedini ssg. Bedini said from the beginning it was not supposed to be more then a one to one charger, plus mechanical. People don?t get OU from it then write it off. Hector and most information I have studied, the RV is a progressive system. First, get a three phase motor to run on 120vac single phase. Adjust for lowest power consumption. Second, Hook up an equivalent motor one to one. Get it to generate at it?s maximal VxA without bogging down the prime mover. For both of these steps you NEED a switch able cap bank for each motor. You have to adjust BOTH cap banks as if it was ONE unit. Then you should have a VIRTUAL power in the alternator of 10 times (or more) then the REAL power input. A magnet will dance 4? or more from the alternator. That?s it. Now, the part that takes work is to take the power off the alternator without affecting the resonance. In other words, non reflective to the source. You can do this at peak voltage 0 current or maximal current 0 voltage. Rectify and dump into caps and use it for what ever you want.
OR you put a load on the alternator. MATCH the source to the load or load to the source. If you have 400vac @ 7.5 amps (=3000 watts Virtual) you need a load rated at 3000 watts. Fire up the RV and get it generating, flip the switch and the light bulbs come on. The RV does not even know the bulbs are there.
I know, the Humdingers here are going to tear me a new a new one. That?s OK. I know what I have seen on my work bench. Most people are so stuck that this stuff does not work they don?t even try (properly). RV is a tool for learning how and what radiant energy is per Hector. All of the neon circuits, Phil?s circuits, inverters etc etc are to go beyond what the RV was intended for. If you can not do the basics, how can you advance? Just having an RV plugged in and running, no alternator, my electric bill has dropped by 25%.
Jason
Jason,
You say that just by having an RV motor plugged in (I assume 24/7) you cut your electric bill by 25%. Are you telling us that the RV with no alternator attached is supplying back more electricity to your local circuit than it uses or have you coincidentally turned off your furnace and skipped laundry and bathing this month?
Also, you talk about running 3KW of lamps with the RV "not even knowing the bulbs are there". Are you saying the RV draws nothing or very much less than 3KW while doing this? Are these things you have done yourself or just heard others claim?
These are pretty astounding claims. How about some video and some good technical details? First clarify exactly what you are claiming, please. Then show us how you did it, if you can. That would get a lot more interest than just talk. Anyone can make bold claims; it's demonstrating them that counts!
Linda
This is probably one of the more simple OU replications you can do...........if you realize how it works.
All this is in its simplest form is a tuned parallel LC tank circuit, consisting of only two components, a capacitor, and an inductive coil (the motor)
We all know that when an ac signal goes through a capacitor, the capacitor provides some resistance, the higher the frequency, the less resistance.
Inversely (litterally) a coil provides resistance to an ac signal, but the resistance gets Higher when the frequency increases.
when you get these two "resistances" to match, (look up inductive and capacitive reactance or impedance) then you have a condition where the theoretical impedance is infinite. This means that you have very little power flowing through the circuit to keep it in oscillation. This is why you cannot just throw any old cap in there.........well actually you could, but then you need to vary your frequency until you find the right one, but if you want it to run off of a set frequency, and you have a set inductor, then the only variable you have to play with is your capacitive value, and it would be a miricle indeed if you happened to throw the right one on. If I were you I would buy an inductance meter, measure the inductance of your motor, visit this website....
http://www.lautsprechershop.de/tools/index_en.htm?/tools/t_p_schwingkreis_en.htm
input your inductance, and find out what capacitor will give you resonance at 60hz
not so hard.......(says the guy who has never built one, but is very familiar with the concept and its application in other OU devices.)
if you are accidentally hooking the cap up in series with the motor, you could see more of a power draw, since it acts like a short circuit, rather than high impedance
Just one notice here, Jason referred to 3 phase motors in his text above and you ,mramos, reported failure with your 1 phase pump motor if I recall correctly. So I think Jason or someone else might explain the know-how in that case as well because as I understand, RV mode is much easier to get for 3 PH than for 1 PH motors. The reason is 3 PH motors have 3 coils and one can serve as a coupling coil to the other two coils that are resonated as a high impedance tank circuit. This is missing in case of the 1 PH motors so maybe an (impedance) transformer is needed also.
Gyula
you dont need that calculator, I just found it by typing, "parallel LC circuit calculator" or you can look up the formula on wikipidia under the RLC or LC ressonant circuit. There are tons of sights out there, you could try searching also under "tank circuit calculator"