For various reasons, i decided to build the pyramid frame without welding.
One of the reasons is increased flexibility (for making experiments or to simplify transport).
First we make the base, which is quite easy because there are only nice 90 deg and 45 deg angles.
Step 1:
Mark a 45 deg angle on the ends of the steel pipes and cut them:
Step 2:
Drill some 4 mm holes into the tubes to mount flat steel angles (they are 120 x 120 x 20 mm):
Now it looks like this:
The finished pyramid base:
Now we will prepare the side tubes.
Step 3:
Mark 54 deg angles as shown in the picture. This gives the lower ends of the tubes. Cut the tubes at the marked lines.
Step 4:
Mark 39 deg angles at the other ends of the tubes. This will give the upper ends.
After cutting, it should look like this:
splendour ::)
Step 5:
Make slots at the lower ends of the tubes, parallel to the cutted edges, approx. 3 mm from the cutted edges, and 3 mm wide.
The width depends on the steel plate you will put into this slot (described in the next step).
For cutting the slots you could use a wire saw with tungsten particles (is used for cutting tiles).
Step 6:
Put a piece of steel into the slot, as close to the outer edge of the tube as possible.
(it's better to drill the hole after this) ;)
Mark the steel at the outside of the tube (on the side which is closer to the edge of the steel tube) and cut it on the marked lines.
Then put it into the slot again, and make the marking for the 4 mm hole which should be 15 mm from the tip of the tube (see picture):
Step 7:
Make a M5 thread into the 4 mm hole, so that a M5 screw (M5 x 32 (use M5 x 40 and cut it to 32 mm)) fits into it:
Side view (the screw should have a right angle to the cutted edges oft he tube, and be 15 mm away from the outer vertical edge):
Step 8:
Drill a 5 mm hole into the base frame at the diagonal, and 15 mm from the corner (measured on the diagonal).
If you use the same flat angles as i used, you can use the 4 mm hole which is already in the angle to center the drill. :)
Now you can mount the side tube to the base with the M5 x 32 screw:
The connection is of course not as stable as a welded connection, but it is sufficient to easily support the weight of the side tube.
When all tubes are mounted, the stability will be more than sufficient. :)
Tomorrow i will make the connections at the top of the pyramid, this will be more easy than the connections to the base. ;)
excellent idea... :)
but how to do with the top ?...
Quote from: titof on December 14, 2007, 03:26:06 PM
excellent idea... :)
but how to do with the top ?...
I will use small steel plates and screws to fix them together. Will do it tomorrow and then post the pictures. 8)
I don't planning to use the 3/8" tube at the top for hanging the converter on it. I think this tube is not necessary for the function.
There are many other ways to mount the converter, either by hanging it on the top, or placing it on a rod connected to the base plane.
Well done. Perhaps I'm going to use this method as doors in my house are not as wide as welded pyramid is. On the apex I will mount a small metal or rather copper pyramid shaped cap. This cap will smooth the apex tube joints and perhaps improve the energy flow.
Skywatcher
Excellent idea! Well done!!
very nicely done.
just a question how did you come up with the angels? what are your side lenght and your hight?
greetings
walt
Quote from: Walter Hofmann on December 16, 2007, 05:22:22 AM
just a question how did you come up with the angels? what are your side lenght and your hight?
The angles i mentioned in my description are fitting quite well. The exact lenghts of the pieces is more important for the result as the angles.
There are some small gaps at the top of the pyramid, but i think that's not very important (look at the pictures in the following posts).
Now the connection of the tubes which will form the top of the pyramid:
First drill holes on 2 sides of the top ends of the tubes, as shown in the picture:
Mount two of the side tubes to the pyramid base so that they can touch themselves at the top.
Make the joining element out of a thin steel plate of 30 x 20 mm, bend it slightly in the mid, and cut the edges as shown on the picture.
Move the tubes so that they are touching themselves at the top, put the joining element on the inside of the two tubes. and mark the holes through the holes in the tubes using a permanent marker. Then drill the holes (i would recommend 4 mm, depends on the screws you want to use).
After drilling the holes, the joining element should look like this:
Mount the two tubes together using the joining element.
The result should look like this (seen from outside):
...and from the inside:
Repeat the last steps for the remaining two tubes.
Then the frame will be finished. ;D
Hi skywatcher
what is the finished hight of your frame from the base to the toP? I tell you why My side's have a lenght of exactly 1000mm from the base of the pyramide to the top center and I only got the base angel at 46 degree on the side pieces.
greetings
walt
The measurements are:
Base lenghts: 1005 mm
Outer edges of the side tubes: 995 mm (but they are slightly rounded at the top, otherwise they would be 1000 mm)
Height (including base frame): 725 mm
I know, the height slightly differs from the theoretical 707 mm, but so i'm more close to the 45 deg angle for the edge tubes. ;)
Hi skywatcher
very nice manual for building welding free pyramid thanks a lot. Only pity that I somehow overlooked this thread during my build. I could do at least the base better. Bellow are some pics from my frame it is not as elegant as yours but for me it's sufficient. Frame is not that relevant as long as it has right dimensions right?. Mine: height 70,5cm Width:96cm Edge:96,5cm. When I place rigips dimensions should be 1m for edges and base width. After finishing it I would suggest for other people to better weld it to get faster frame for experiments. Measuring, drilling takes its time. You may make mistakes and then it is difficult to correct. When welding you can still use hammer to correct it :)
MT
Quote from: MT on December 19, 2007, 06:01:56 PM
Measuring, drilling takes its time. You may make mistakes and then it is difficult to correct.
You are right. But if you can disassemble it, you can modify the frame without building it completely new.
And you can disassemble it to save storage place if you need the place for other things. ;)
This is very important if you only have an appartment and no empty garage etc...
Now, after correcting some minor mechanical inconsistencies ;) i can also show a picture of the top of my pyramid:
Hi, I have building and experimenting with pyramids and their energy for over 30 years. Yours is origional, well made, portable and of course very strong. But the angle for pyramid energy is 52 not 54 degrees. Was the previous post a typo and you ment to say 52? Have you seen the geometry that proves its beauty? I will attach a eligant gif file to so why it is 52 degrees. no big deal, minor change. Again - very well crafted project!
yon
the easiest way to build a pyramid, is this:
bend the sides of a copper foil rectangle, so that the middle becomes a triangle.
zip tie together 4 triangles, through holes punched in the "wings".
you can even stack many "triangles" on top of each other, to thicken each side. as long as the holes on the wings line up.