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Energy from Natural Resources => Electrolysis of H20 and Hydrogen on demand generation => Topic started by: CarbedNotch on January 18, 2008, 10:26:36 PM

Title: best way to wire your electrodes
Post by: CarbedNotch on January 18, 2008, 10:26:36 PM
I'm thinking about using my mig welder to weld SS wire to bottom of the electrodes. What have ya'll done?
Title: Re: best way to wire your electrodes
Post by: CarbedNotch on January 21, 2008, 01:52:36 PM
Here is what I came up with:
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi75.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi283%2Fcarbednotch%2Fcells016.jpg&hash=8157d567ee67184d8e982356e4865e0038d5e7a0)
Weld whatever you like pm me
Title: Re: best way to wire your electrodes
Post by: CarbedNotch on January 21, 2008, 04:21:35 PM
Would it make a difference if I welded the wire in the middle of the tube instead of right at the bottom?
When I hang the tube it hits a higher pitch resonance when you tap it 3/4 of the way up whereas the bottom makes the least noise.... Just a thought.
Title: Re: best way to wire your electrodes
Post by: HeairBear on January 21, 2008, 11:51:47 PM
copied from here... http://www.geocities.com/teeley2/chimeart.html


Nodes of Fundamental Frequency

     When a chime is struck, it vibrates along its entire length in a sort of standing wave, but it's movement is so small you can't see it with the naked eye except on very large chimes. The wave has a mirror image of itself so it crosses itself at two specific points on the chime.


     These spots are 22.4% from either end. It is here that there is virtually no vibration and we call these places the nodes of fundamental frequency. It doesn't matter which node you use to drill your holes, either node will perform the same way. This means that if you suspend your chime from this node, you will not dampen the vibration and you will get a longer, more sustained sound.

Try this experiment to show how important the location of this node is to the sound your chimes will make.

       Hold a chime (or any piece of pipe, tuned or not) about halfway way down with two fingers. Strike it near the bottom with something like a screwdriver handle. Strike it a few times to help remember the sound. Now slowly let the pipe slide downward while continuing to hit the pipe at the bottom. Do you notice how the sound changes? The note begins to shorten as the pipe slides down again. The place where it reaches its longest and most resonant, is right at the node and it will be 22.4% from the top.  Isn't it great? Instead of a short bong!, it becomes a rich bonnnnnggg! Virtually any metal tube behaves the same way. After you've tuned your wind chime lengths, then can drill your holes for hanging and get that full sound with all the chimes. Just multiply each length in millimeters by .224 and place the holes that distance from the top.

       For example if your pipe (after you've tuned it) is 380mm, multiple it by .224 to get 85.1 mm from the top. Drill there. The same calculation is done for each chime in turn. You can see that the points will be different for each length. It may look a little odd but if you want that expensive chime sound, this will give it to you! Remember, drilling 22.4% from the end will give you the most resonant sound. Now you know the secret of those who manufacture expensive chimes.

      This calculation works for chimes down to about one half an inch in diameter, but with pipes or rods smaller than this, the frequency gets so high, it matters less where you drill the hanging holes. That is why those little rods and pipes of the small, cheap chimes are often hung from holes drilled at the top, all the same, about one quarter of an inch or so. Unfortunately, some manufacturers of the higher priced chimes also drill the holes near the tops and the quality of sound suffers.