SPARKS posted a Aether Votex Unit in another thread. I did a search & found a site where they claimed working units:
http://dallastexas.net/PinkyAndTheBrain/archive/
The following is a SAMPLE EXCERPT of 1 of the posts from that URL SITE above. Does anyone know anything about this?
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Here is a summary of the specs of my very crude duplication of Clifford Hazelton's free energy device. Two aluminum plate 6 inches in diameter and 4.25 inches apart. Alu plates are horizontal, flat. The plates are fed with a high voltage coil which puts out about 25 to 30 KV at one watt of power. That is very low power. It takes 15 minutes to charge a 25 KV capacitor bank that can be hooked to the supply.
For this experiment the capacitor bank was not connected. The HV supply has, as part of its construction, a HV fullwave diode bridge recitifier. The output from the bridge is connected directly to the Alu plates using jumper cords from Radio Shak. The HV supply was connected directly from the output of the bridge off the supply to the two plates. Luck would have it that I connected the right terminals to the top and bottom disk.
At this time I don't know whether top was + or minus. The torroid coil. I made it by taking a piece of 1/2 inch tubing, putting a dowell into it to make it rigid, and wrapped (very sloppy) a bunch of turns. I figure if it would work, sloppy was ok. I pulled the dowell out. Stuck a 2 inch piece of dowell into one end of the tube/coil and connected the other end into the other end of the coil. Voilla, a crude torroidal coil. Probably 75 turns of #28 wire on coil. The finished coil is similar to one of those SLINKY coil toys.
I put the coil into the aluminum disk sandwich on the bottom as that seemed to be where the wide end of the vortex would be from Cliff's discussion and the rolling ball experiment. Then connected a 1000 ohm resistor to each lead of the torroid coil using more jumpers. Hooked a voltmeter across the resistor with two more jumper to measure voltage. Actually tried two different loads, 1000 ohms and 165 ohms. Getting about 35 to 55 volts on the 1000 ohm and 70-109 volts on the 165 ohm.
Floyd Sweet just had a rotating Aether Vortex spinning between the 2 flat magnets. Edwin Gray had it spinning inside his special tube. Hubbard had it spinning inside his circumference of pulsing electromagnets. The TESTATICA Device has it spinning inside the two large cans. SM had it spinning inside sequentially pulsing control coils arranged in a Toroid. These are just different ways of accomplishing the same thing.
That is why SM's early TPUs wouldn't work upside down. When he flipped them over, the spin came to a gradual stop. That also coincides with what SM called the "INERTIA EFFECT". In essence, SM proved that Aether will only spin in 1 direction in the northern hemisphere. When flipped over, no Aether spin = no output. Neither SM nor Floyd Sweet really knew the relevance of the spinning Aether Vortex. Remember in one video where SM said "Now you tell me why it won't work upside down." Yes, SM is a Very Brilliant Man, but at the time he really didn't understand that the TPU output power was coming from the Aether Vortex.
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I guess this say's it all.
http://dallastexas.net/PinkyAndTheBrain/archive/00000530.htm
Hmmmmmmmmm, It sure looks like IT WORKS to me, according to this post.
http://dallastexas.net/PinkyAndTheBrain/archive/00000173.htm
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Here is the Main Site in case it was missed:
http://dallastexas.net/PinkyAndTheBrain/archive/
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The nice thing about this invention is that there are NO frequencies & NO Control Coils to worry about like there are with SM's TPU.
FATBIRD very exciting I saw this on another thread NOMEN LUNI i think anyway Its about SWEET and gives step by step instructions also TESLA one wire EXP ETC ETC great site also http://www.hyiq.org/Library/15-05-05.html Chet
Good points.
Thanks Ramset
Here is another post from this URL saying they had success. Notice the concern with the MIBs at the end.
http://dallastexas.net/PinkyAndTheBrain/archive/00000195.htm
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the HV power takes, at most, 5 watts then we got about 10X over unity.
To me it looks like it is working. So it appears to follow the load as Cliff said. I sent in a diagram to everyone a couple of days ago and that is what I used. If anyone is interested they can look at the diagram I sent. I also just downloaded an updated gif with most all the parameters.
That is about all.
So please, everyone keep your word to God and Cliff and Jerry so Cliff can get his new unit working and he gives us the go ahead to release the information. Remember, don't get greedy or we could all end up very dead. Just follow the rules Jerry Decker set up and we will get this out and the world will be a better place for everyone.
God Bless Us Everyone!
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I recall reading about an experiment that was submitted to a school science fare.
It involved 2 Al disks with HV applied and a steel ball rolled inside, this sure sounds like it's based on it.
I am not sure if you are right about vortex direction, I think you are hopefully mistaken but if not that may explain some of my failures at creating aether vortexes in the past.
I would note that aether moves at right angles to electric fields when it can and along magnetic field lines.
And as I guess everyone knows can be made to move with moving electric and magnetic fields.
What you may not know is that if you move it through things that disrupt the flow you create orgone. (orgonite, glass beads, pressed iron powder, though a guy did get himself struck by lightening with the latter)
I'd also note that not all electricity is the same even if the volts and amps are, some come with an aetheric component such as from various open magnetic circuit generator designs, but to get it to flow you must present an almost short circuit. (or reduce the electrical component without reducing the aetheric)
One last thing, if you have two aether streams move at right angles they (possibly depending on relative direction of flow) will amplify, in fact of you pass an aetheric current through coils they will generate aether flow at right angles, especially torus coils, pancake coils and conical coils. (a time varying aether flow might have a far greater inducing effect)
Had to try this!
http://picasaweb.google.com/vincemormile/CapacitorTPU?authkey=eUZ9z6FSrnI
Vince
Quote from: FatBird on March 27, 2008, 06:41:09 PM
Here is another post from this URL saying they had success. Notice the concern with the MIBs at the end.
http://dallastexas.net/PinkyAndTheBrain/archive/00000195.htm
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the HV power takes, at most, 5 watts then we got about 10X over unity.
...
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His claim is irrelevant.
Charge a capacitor at 10 v through a 1 Mohm resistance, you need a maximum power P=U?/R = 10*10/1000000=0,0001 W = 1 mW.
Now discharge the capacitor through 1 ohm resistance. This gives P=U?/R=10*10/1=100 W.
Woooh !!! I got over unity, I got a cop of 100000 :-))))
The guys is confusing power and energy!
Energy is power times time. As he didn't measure time his conclusions are erroneous.
Great Photo Setup Vince. I will post your photo here if it is okay with you.
Really brilliant use of that TV chassis to get 30 KV Pulsing DC. By the way, I noticed that on that thread, Cliff said that sometimes it took a couple of hours for the Vortex to start up. So you might want to try giving it more time.
They also mention in that thread that the Output Coil MUST have a Resistive Load attached for it to work. A 120V, 40 W Light Bulb should be okay.
Thanks.
Thank you for that idea Austin.
Here is a very interesting Aether TPU post:
http://dallastexas.net/PinkyAndTheBrain/archive/00000237.htm
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Got to chat a few minutes with Cliff and he ask me to pass this on to you all.
1. He will be back home and on the net again tonight about 6 to 6:30. He hopes Dan Y has the chat thingy running ok.
2. Suggested dry ice fumes blown into space between alu plates to perhaps see the vortex.
A few more gems from Cliff
1. He did remove the wire from the plates and then hooked back up and the device started up again. It certainly backs up the notion that the aether has momentum
2. The electricity is the same as we are familiar with. He thot at first he had DC but some of his friends seemed to think it is AC out of the device. Do there is some testing to be done here. I only tested for DC last night.
3. Basic experiment was 10 inch plexiglass tube with alu plates fitted into each end. Output from a neon sign transformer into a couple of rectifiers which would result in pulsed DC fed the two alu plates. Polarity is important. If the polarity is opposite then the vortex point will be down instead of the wide end and the coil at the bottom won't pick up the magnetic vortex. The Coil was inside at bottom and where Cliff thot the ballbearing would roll. He removed turns to get the voltage he wanted.
4. I neglected to ask if the coil was torroidal. We need to make sure we are clear with Cliff as he fully admits he is not an electronics expert. Also, torroid and vortexes have a lot of meanings to different people.
5. Yes, Cliff smoked the first unit. Connected the output into the ground and a bolt of plasma formed to cause a meltdown.
6. Don't worry Norm. We WILL share all! Assuming this device proves out we will be glad for the team effort. Synergism will get us there faster.
7. Please everyone, Tonight lets keep the excursions to other topics out. Ask Cliff pointed questions you have about the device. Specificity please!
Onward and upward,
Dan A. Davidson
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I agree that a PC CRT monitor circuit board can be used for its high voltage. You just need to attach a wire to that HV rubber suction cup fastened to the CRT. It is about 20 KV pulsing DC.
Cliff says TPU wires get COLD.
http://dallastexas.net/PinkyAndTheBrain/archive/00000454.htm
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There was a question about the coil in the plates moving around.
I attached some peices of tape on the bottom of the coil windings to hold it in place at several areas.
The wire was enameled in most cases, as I bought a roll of it at radio shack. There were probably at least a hundred turns. I would wrap it around something round (a broomstick worked) to get it its shape, but it did expand after being taken off. I had difficulty getting it to stay put, so I used tape at about one inch intervals to hold down one curl of coil to the plate.
The rest were held with the one, not exactly circular (Im nitpicking for clarity, but it was round...as close as I could get.) The first ones had the coil extended a little over the edge of the plate, about 1/3 of the width of the coil. When enclosed, the whole coil was inside the plate's edge. Worked both
ways.
Sometimes I put the spools that the wire came on in the center of the plates to hold them apart. 2 worked well. Sometimes I used a cardboard peice cut from a cereal box to hold it up. These methods were unsteady, so I finally enclosed it in the clear plexiglass tube that was 10" wide. It was a quarter inch thick, and I used a dremel to cut a 1/8 inch gouge, or inside cut, around the inside diameter.
I could then put the plates (9 3/4 inches) INSIDE THE INSIDE DIAMETER of the quarter inch thick plexiglass tube. This wass soon covered with a 10 inch dick of plexiglass, so that this "inside the tube" plate was covered at each end. The leads of the wire only came out about a half inch, and I had thick, brass "alligator" clips (flat jawed clamps, actually) attached to the ends of these leads, which I could hook to heavier wires that actually carried the current to the load. They were thin wires, and I had to be careful not to break them off.
As I sated, the plates were covered with the plastic disk, but I had a small hole in the center so that I could insert the high voltage input leads to initiate the device. I had to initiate the device with a load attached each time with the high voltage. The coil was essentially held in place (by the tape), and
I was careful to not jar it around.
One time I went to hook up the load, (before the HV DC initiation process) and the light on the instant heat soldering iron came on when the clips were attached to the plug leads. No outside power. It got hot. I had a heart attack!
I did not move it more than I had to, and it maintained this condition until I hooked it to ground, when it went poof... When I hooked it to ground, there were to brass rods that I had drilled a hole into the ends of. They were about 15" long. I put screws into the holes, hooked 12 guage wire taken from an old peice of flexible conduit, and tightened them down. I drove the rods into the Earth (ground was moist) and hooked up the clips. I wanted to see if the wires would smoke.(the 12 GA.) I knewthat
they would, and thought that my coil would be OK, as I had got very hot 12 GA. leads before, and nothing happened to the coil. But not so in this case.
The insulation burned off, they smoked and smoked, glowed red, and poof! The coil and the leads were engulfed in what seemed to be plasma, and just werent there. It made an arcing sound. I tried to smell for ozone, but only smelled burned plastic. The plexiglass was on fire (just a little) around the hole where the output leads came out.
I am not saying that I know what happened, guys, but I NEVER FOUND THE LEADS! I LOOKED AND LOOKED, BUT COULD NOT FIND THEM. TAKE THIS ANY WAY YOU WANT, BUT THEY JUST WERENT THERE. Now that I have said this, I will tell you a little more on the theory side, so you will KNOW THAT I AM TELLING THE TRUTH. I can tell you how to get the effect everytime, without fail... but it is a little more involved... I did not tell this part to the group, because it is something that I have not done, yet. I dont have the resources, and wanted to wait until I did.
I did not lie, though. The device can work exactly as I said, only it is "stubborn". You can achieve the exact same results... But this method would be more precise. I am sharing this because I trust all of you. This has not been done by me, BUT IT WILL WORK! EVERY TIME! If you think about it, you will see. This would take money and time that I dont have, so I will delegate it to the group... Who can do this first? I dont want money, I want to see it done. It doesnt have to be done by me. We have been a team, and lets keep it that way...
I now ask you to think about this... and do it if you can... If I am wrong, as J. Snell so eloquently put it, you will let me know... The temperature coefficient is not a random phenomena. I did notice that the lead clips, in retrospect, were cold on occasion... I am saying that I induced a state of lossless power transfer which only takes place , so far as we know, in a superconductive condition. These conditions are brought about by extremely low temperatures, as we all know. If I am, as I believe, causing a "sledding" effect between the plates, and tapping the aetheric vortex and magnetic flux simultaneously, then this is a condition that occurs under cold conditions.
What if the cold nature of Floyd Sweets device, and the one in mine, are caused by nature taking on the characteristics of a superconductive device because she has no choice? She must losslessly transfer the energy of the vortex to the coil, as she is forced to by by the coils placed dead center in the path. Will not back emf take great lengths to equalize itself?
If you squeeze a balloon to hard, it will break. I am saying that as the coil is placed in the path, nature manufactures the cold to make the process work, as she HAS NO MORE CHOICE THAN A BURST OF BACK EMF THAT WILL MANUFACTURE A HIGHER VOLTAGE TO ACHEIVE EQUALIZATION IN THE THREAT OF A COLLAPSING FIELD. (or, simply stated, squeezing the ballon and getting higher pressure) So this is it in a nutshell...
Picture a superconductive disk in a cold sufficiently cold environment... "levitating" over a magnet... Is this not a plate of higher potential, suspended over a plate of lower? (the magnet) The difference of potential develops from the magnet, and when it rises, the superconductive plate will spin. (Our vortex, but held open longer, and easier to tap!) The vortex's viscosity take free hanging plate with it...
Just as in my device, the more that you take, the more you will get... Only this would be a super capacitor... Put the coil in this cold environment, sandwiched between, maintain it, and you would get
unlimited power, just as in my device without the cold...
This goes a long way to explain why a thin coil was able to sustain the high output that melted wire much thicker down the line... You now know all that there is to know... no loss on superconductive
plates, no loss on this easy to catch vortex doorway to the aether, only loss on the output load which is what we want for transfer of power, but that would be down the line, in my girlfriends curling iron or something similar.
I know this works, as I have seen it. You have all helped me understand what I have seen. It remains to be proven (not for long, knowing you guys) whether this supercapacitor would stay cold on its own, provided the circuit stayed loaded, but only in practice. I know in my head and heart that it would...
The next step is to decide whether to keep playing with crude methods that do work if only temperamentally, or to really get this thing going in a big way. I have openly shared all that I have now, even my dreams and goals for this thing. Now the ball is in your collecive courts... any critique of the theory? And what should we do next?
Cliff
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Cliff,
I am following this thread only because of my work with pulse motors. I found that by putting a pickup coil loosely in the ckt but isolated, I can use a stepup transformer to give me up to 40 KV. This can be rectified by either half wave or full to apply to the plates. So I guess my question to you is.., does this aether effect happen for you on demand or does IT demand the perfect geometry?
Got me thinking!
Carl
Carl,
Please post a picture of your Coil - Motor Setup.
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FB
You'll find it in the Pulsed Motor section but here it is again.
If you can make it out, the coil and transformer are on the lower right. It could easily provide the pulsed HVDC for those plates.
So what happened with this device? Did everyone give up? The thread you linked us too is from 1998?
Would still like to know more about the particular setup as it sounds like there may be some potential there.
Carl
This is an interesting device. It is like an oscillator with the inductor inside the capacitor. The capacitor and inductor therefore are magnetically coupled.
@Sparks
HUH?
The pic is my pulse/Bedini SSG setup and I'm picking off the BEMF for charging two batteries. It merely keeps two batteries fully charged and yes I then rotate the supply to the charge. What I was saying was this. By simply putting a steel (hollow core) pickup coil near those spinning magnets I can produce anything from 1V to 20V which in turn would feed the step up transformer. Transformer low turns side being fed by coil, High turns side produces a HV wave form. Since the topic of this thread is Cliffs' Vortex and it doesn't require high power, I was just wondering out loud if this HV could be used to create the vortex? Of course it would be rectified before hitting the plates.
Carl
@Casman
Sorry I was talking about Cliff''s setup. I posted a picture below of what I think it is configured as.
@sparks
Sorry.
That is the configuration I got out of it also. There is mention of possibly putting the coil on an angle inside the plates. Will get the disks soon as I can as I REALLY want to play with it.
Have read many of your posts with interest.., keep it up.
Carl
I was reading this thread and wondered if a piece of coax cable would do the trick for the upper and lower plates? hummm...
Hey Guys:
I've been playing with this thing since I first posted my setup. I've tried both polarities on the plates and let all the different setups run for almost 2 hours each. My coil has been centered between the two plates, touching the bottom , and also touching the top. I've tried different spacing between the plates from 1'' to 6". I've installed all kinds of loads from a resistor to various bulbs of all kinds of voltage.
I STILL GET ABSOLUTELY NOTHING OUT OF IT, NOT EVEN A FRACTION OF MILLIVOLT.
Here's hopping you guys can do better !
Regards
Vince
I've read through those 1998 posts and it seems like no-one has had much success. I would offer a slight change to get the ball rolling.., Spiral a pancake magnet wire on to at least one plate and feed the HV to it. Thinking it might help get the vortex started. Has anybody tried this arrangement?
Carl
Quote from: starcruiser on April 02, 2008, 02:13:25 PM
I was reading this thread and wondered if a piece of coax cable would do the trick for the upper and lower plates? hummm...
[/quote[/size]
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Please elaborate on that StarCruiser. Do you mean keep wrapping the coax around in a circle?
Thanks.
.[/color]
I was wondering if the plexiglass should be around the whole setup. Could the polycarbonates be acting as a semiconductor? SMs' early tpu's had polycarbonate discs in them. This would make it necessary to have plastic between the plates and the coil. I think it is necessary to create a machine that uses energy input to create a low energy area and capture the energy going in and out to perpectuate the low energy area and drive the load.
The dc pulse energy keeps on creating a positive charge within the tube and the plastic won't let it back in so the coil is the only way in. I stripped down an old monitor yesterday and was using the flyback to power up a couple of aluminum plates. This voltage is dangerous! I reversed the coil and put the highvoltage on the bottom (too close to a metal bench) and arcs started flying out of the receptacle the monitor was plugged into.
@Fatbird, yes in a loop over and under the wire torrid, not around it, then pulse from one end only, directional charge flow is what I was thinking. Orientate the coax wire loops (like a loop antenna) over and under the torrid like the aluminum plates. You could try hooking up the wires from the same end or to opposite ends (different wires of course) and see what you get. Just something that came to mind while reading this thread. I would like to try this but do not have the time due to work right now. So I thought I would share the idea...
Quote from: FatBird on April 03, 2008, 04:54:55 PM
Quote from: starcruiser on April 02, 2008, 02:13:25 PM
I was reading this thread and wondered if a piece of coax cable would do the trick for the upper and lower plates? hummm...
[/quote[/size]
============================================================
Please elaborate on that StarCruiser. Do you mean keep wrapping the coax around in a circle?
Thanks.
[/color]
Quote from: sparks on April 03, 2008, 07:03:20 PM
I was wondering if the plexiglass should be around the whole setup. Could the polycarbonates be acting as a semiconductor? SMs' early tpu's had polycarbonate discs in them. This would make it necessary to have plastic between the plates and the coil. I think it is necessary to create a machine that uses energy input to create a low energy area and capture the energy going in and out to perpectuate the low energy area and drive the load.
The dc pulse energy keeps on creating a positive charge within the tube and the plastic won't let it back in so the coil is the only way in. I stripped down an old monitor yesterday and was using the flyback to power up a couple of aluminum plates. This voltage is dangerous! I reversed the coil and put the highvoltage on the bottom (too close to a metal bench) and arcs started flying out of the receptacle the monitor was plugged into.
================================================================
Good points Sparks. Maybe you are right, that the Plexiglass tube keeps the Aether in & helps it to spin?
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you could use a 12vdc car ignition coil to generate your HV... couple that with a early GM control module and viola! you have a simple HV generator with the use of a signal generator/oscillator.
this can help?
http://jnaudin.free.fr/cstack/index.htm
@Wings
Nice link. :) It is alway necessary to seperate charge or potential energy from mass. The inherent charge of the mass creates a roadway for the energy pulse. A superconductor is created by constructing a very ordered smooth energy road with the inherent charges of the superconductor mass all facing the same way. Plastics form electrets which is basically a carbon crystal with alignment of molecules within the solid structure so that electric dipoles exist within the plastic. Something like an electrical permanent magnet. (Ever notice the static you can get on a piece of plexiglass) The magnetic field created by pulsing the aluminum will penetrate this dielectric easily. So we get a high voltage building up on the plexiglass with a pulsed expanding magnetic field from the aluminum. Aluminum unlike copper sets up magnetic domains like iron. Take two magnets and a piece of alumium and you will notice that the aluminum damps the magnetic interacton between the two magnets.
Very nice web site Sparks.
Thank you for sharing.
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Vince, How is your TPU setup going?
Anything positive yet?
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I gave up on the high voltage TPU! I tried all kinds of different things, including different coils but got nothing out of it.
I'm working on a combination "Thane Hiens" magnetic coupling drive motor /rotating magnetic field toroid that I have been thinking about.
I'll post it when I get some time to put it together.
Regards
Vince
Cliff said the output kept going even after he disconnected the HV.
Please check Patent # 4,897,592. I tried to upload it to this post, but it was refused due to it being over 50 KB. If someone can post the Patent, please do so.
http://Pat2PDF.Org is a really nice place to search for patents.
It looks like said patent has a lot of similarities to the TPU described in this thread.
Comments welcome.
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This is interesting from:
http://dallastexas.net/PinkyAndTheBrain/archive/00000063.htm
===========================================================
The applied loading on the stressed system is through the output coil. This coil does not load the plate charge, ie: the electric field. It loads the vortexing magnetic field which is perpendicular to the static field. That is how the plates maintain their charge - the charge is used to create the
conditions for the vortex to form, it is the magnetic vortex that is loaded, not the E field between the plates.
By loading the vortex, as it is trying to make a 'connection' between the two charged plates, the capacitor dielectric (vacuum) is held in a constant state of imbalance and therefore the capacitor is maintained in a constant state of charge. It's that simple!
Cliff tells me that the tornado between the plates is not something you have to create - it happens naturally in a charging capacitor. The trick is to apply a load to this tornado and watch nature compensate by increasing power to the vortex to overcome that applied load. Beautifully simple.
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Right Jim, that is what Cliff said.
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That's what Cliff said.
@Fatbird
SM's tpu is looking more and more like Cliff's. Cliff's kicked the ambient magnetic field out of the core of the ring and the magnetic field outside of the ring flows into it like a hurricane.
Good point Mr Sparks.
There are definitely similarities.
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Is there anybody out there working on this?
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Ok. Thanks.
Can you post some details on that.
Please post a schematic so we can see what it looks like.
Thanks.
Thanks Dave.
The WindHexe/Vortex Shear Effect
==========================
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxuM7xWL5RQ
"Winhexe" is even on Wikipedia.
The vortex shear effect, the shear musical effect in the video, wow, almost eerly frightening, don't you think?
Vortex traps for water using rare earth magnets exist, trulky marvelous: would give a mechanism for the surspecial feedback effect noticed by some enthusiasts. Addiong to the mix magnetic shielding and/or geometric arrangements of electrcial circuits (energy circuits by Catt, anyone? look at the shape power factoid on rexresearch.com), one gets frightful effects at the doorstep :O) Truly marvelous enhancements are just a wiff of wind away, pretty dangerous ones but so mighty powerful it is indeed mind boggling. Oughta' boggle the right way, eh! ;O)
Okay, thanks MinEth3r.
Has anybody tried this out yet?
If this is new to you, please go to the very FIRST Page ever posted on this thread for more details.
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2 thoughts.
First is that Torsion theory is really if you read up on it about these vortex structures created by rotation in a material vacuum (aether).
And positive the negative charges should create such effects, also the pulsing kinda makes sense too due to something else they state.
So really Torsion is just an aether vortex theory.
Second, it was probably created by one of the people involved with this device, and I can't recall if this was mentioned already but there was a guy who took this same setup with the plates and the HV and put a ball bearing and found it rolled in a circular path on the bottom disk.
IIRC it was presented as a science fair at a school.
aether22
nice to see you on the board
Chet
Quote from: FatBird on July 16, 2009, 08:32:49 PM
Has anybody tried this out yet?
If this is new to you, please go to the very FIRST Page ever posted on this thread for more details.
Back when this was first posted I phoned Dan A Davidson and sent him the .gif that is posted here.
He told me that he did not know anything about the device and he had never worked on it.
As far as I know he is a reputable FE researcher so I don't know where the picture came from.
Does anybody know how to contact cliff directly.
Didn't Vance on this thread try the device pretty well exactly as pictured with no results.
Thanks GSM
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Hi All
Has anyone tried to arc the HV feeding the top plate yet? If not, try it, I got a 24v 2watt and 75watt bulb on the output of coil in paralell. Using a digital meter 1000volt range it reads overvolts only when connecting the top plate to a wire moving between the HV and ground. I suspect it is only picking up stray RF as no illumination can be seen. If the DC has to be pulsed, what frequency is best? Ive built an oscillator using an old line transformer from a 14inch TV and can change the frequency easily. It seems to charge the pate and nothing much happens. Does the time of day have any effect on this one?,or are we not getting the full story. If the aether can be stirred the marks tpu will operate based on the faraday machine at least in principle. If a working device has been made, can you find the time of day, date and where it was done? Just incase the ionospheric conditions have a part to play.
thanks steve
http://www.disclose.tv/viewvideo/29990/Dr__Steven_Greer_The_Promise_of_New_Energy/
Quote from: Mk1 on September 17, 2009, 02:56:05 AM
http://www.disclose.tv/viewvideo/29990/Dr__Steven_Greer_The_Promise_of_New_Energy/
@Mk1,
Thank you for posting this link. Exciting promise.
Rosphere
Let's see a calculation that will convince you the numbers are bogus.
He claims an output of between 70 and 105 volts across a 165 ohm resistor.
Let's say the output is 100 volts
Then power is: 100^2/165 = 60 watts !!
His output resistor is only rated for 5 watts !!
Do you know what that means? Instant smoke.
So he does not report this, and this makes me think something is fishy with this experiment and/or the measurements.
EM
Quote from: EMdevices on October 04, 2009, 08:48:10 PM
Let's see a calculation that will convince you the numbers are bogus.
He claims an output of between 70 and 105 volts across a 165 ohm resistor.
Let's say the output is 100 volts
Then power is: 100^2/165 = 60 watts !!
His output resistor is only rated for 5 watts !!
Do you know what that means? Instant smoke.
So he does not report this, and this makes me think something is fishy with this experiment and/or the measurements.
EM
@EM,
You were able to listen to the whole thing?
I had to expel my lunch after only five minutes. I tried to continue but gave up when he said he has seen things (OU devices) but didn't supply any details.
My failure to continue was probably due to some similarities with me ;D
Here is a nice 105 Page Free Energy Handbook:
http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Chapter1.pdf
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This is the part of Overunity forums that leads me to believe that nobody playing with this stuff has exhibited any knowledge with cold electrical output. The reason I say this is because cold electricity does quite the opposite as conventional power does with an impedance. If we take the hairpin circuit and we throw in a 200w bulb on it's output, it will not light no matter what we do. If we feed that bulb with a 40 awg wire, it will illuminate some. If we take the same setup and add a 100w bulb, the bulb will light so bright you will face temporary blindness. Take the 40 awg wires away (by the way are unburnt because there is NO amperage running within them) and add 12 awg wires to the 100w bulb. The bulb will NOT illuminate. Add a 20 watt bulb and there will be so much energy running through the filament that it will light, arc and blow the filament. Install a 40w bulb and it lights again to cause blindness.
The moral of the story is the resistor you speak of with cold electricity running through it will produce more of an output if the resistance is higher than it were lower, but, it won't matter what the wattage rating is because this power is not accumulated from the circuit's input, it is an energization through it's impedance and it only illuminates by the vibration of the electrons in it's filament caused by it's input frequency and higher resistances of either the bulb or it's feed wire size. There will be no current at all in the circuit, however, the bulb will light at higher levels than that of high current or forced current conventional electricity which is wasteful energy. We can illuminate 50 bulbs with the hairpin circuit at the correct impedance, and, the higher the impedance, the more energy drawn into it's output with no effect on it's source. The source remains the same, we just need the same amount of energy for initiation of every process with no differences. The only differences I have witnessed were the input's amperage levels of maybe 16ma would be reduced to 12 ma at hv's of 5kV to 15kV depending on the transformers used.
This means that those conventional equations may be useless with any type of cold radiation that is drawn in from the environment, even if the output may seem to be conventional, the effect needs to be duplicated first to see what really happens. Determination can not be made by a simple equation unless we compare apples with apples. Your circuit formulas are like comparing an apple to a maple branch.. Not even being a fruit... You may as well try the circuit first before shouting out formulas that may not even apply here.
I can only recommend that you build it then, and tell us how well it went. If it works, make a few units and sell them at cost price to a few of us on here so we can confirm this.
I'm not trying to be rude, but I have made countless crap that was supposed to work but never did. It turn out that 99% of this sort of garbage is someone great idea that in their minds should work, and they pretend it worked, with the hope that others will replicate and hopefully get it to actually work.
Eat, Sleep, Build
@ dezeinstein
Can you do a YouTube video to show us an example?
Thank you.
.
As a newbie, it's easy to assume that you know what you're talking about. How about some proof to back it all up.
We've heard theories till the cows come home. But, no self runners, as yet. Nor a replication of a TPU, that works.
Quote from: dezeinstein on April 19, 2016, 04:57:24 AM
This is the part of Overunity forums that leads me to believe that nobody playing with this stuff has exhibited any knowledge with cold electrical output. The reason I say this is because cold electricity does quite the opposite as conventional power does with an impedance. If we take the hairpin circuit and we throw in a 200w bulb on it's output, it will not light no matter what we do. If we feed that bulb with a 40 awg wire, it will illuminate some. If we take the same setup and add a 100w bulb, the bulb will light so bright you will face temporary blindness. Take the 40 awg wires away (by the way are unburnt because there is NO amperage running within them) and add 12 awg wires to the 100w bulb. The bulb will NOT illuminate. Add a 20 watt bulb and there will be so much energy running through the filament that it will light, arc and blow the filament. Install a 40w bulb and it lights again to cause blindness.
The moral of the story is the resistor you speak of with cold electricity running through it will produce more of an output if the resistance is higher than it were lower, but, it won't matter what the wattage rating is because this power is not accumulated from the circuit's input, it is an energization through it's impedance and it only illuminates by the vibration of the electrons in it's filament caused by it's input frequency and higher resistances of either the bulb or it's feed wire size. There will be no current at all in the circuit, however, the bulb will light at higher levels than that of high current or forced current conventional electricity which is wasteful energy. We can illuminate 50 bulbs with the hairpin circuit at the correct impedance, and, the higher the impedance, the more energy drawn into it's output with no effect on it's source. The source remains the same, we just need the same amount of energy for initiation of every process with no differences. The only differences I have witnessed were the input's amperage levels of maybe 16ma would be reduced to 12 ma at hv's of 5kV to 15kV depending on the transformers used.
This means that those conventional equations may be useless with any type of cold radiation that is drawn in from the environment, even if the output may seem to be conventional, the effect needs to be duplicated first to see what really happens. Determination can not be made by a simple equation unless we compare apples with apples. Your circuit formulas are like comparing an apple to a maple branch.. Not even being a fruit... You may as well try the circuit first before shouting out formulas that may not even apply here.
That's: 60W @ 12mA / 5KV: 180W @ 12mA / 15KV: 80W @ 16mA / 5KV: 240W @ 16mA / 15KV.
Therefore assuming good impedance matching, that equals some bright lamps even without the cold electricity!
@ dezeinstein
Can you do a YouTube video to show us an example?
Thank you.
.
Just stumbled upon this topic... If these claims hold true, did anyone tried to actually "close the loop" and use a fraction of the output power to feed the HV source input, thus self-maintaining the device in operation (while extracting some energy for external use...)?
If start-up is an issue, one could use a buffer battery which starts up the HV source and gets charged while the device generates power. It could be easily proven if the flow of energy is in the desired direction (or the battery could be subsequently disconnected to keep the setup "clean" of any "externally measurable" power sources).
BTW, does anyone really knows where does this energy come from? Is it similar to a ZPE extraction tentative?
It looks extremely easy to build - and if it works, I would be baffled that no one could do this (much!!!) earlier... or did they?? I would be tempted to build one myself.
All the best,
Catalin