Hi everyone,
I finaly decided to join this forum. Why? This look like the best one on Newman Motors replication and testing. I work on these radient energy devices with my son-in-law (water cracking and Bedini motors are what he thinkers with) who handles the electronic side and the testing of our replications. I am a retired diesel mechanic who loves to build unusual things. Earth batteries are in my next experimental projects.
I did my first replication last year and my second one is just done and getting ready to build the axial flux alternator to be coupled to it. I was impressed with the first prototype as it runs at about 6,000 rpm on 18 volts and .025 amp. We ran it on the scope and with a few tweaks, we got near 7,000 rpm out of it. Not much torque but plenty of speed with very nice bemf.
The second replication is much better on torque as the magnets are much stronger on a larger rotor (8 1"x1" cylindrical neodynium N50 on a 9" rotor) and the 2 coils use 41,000 feet bifilar awg 31 with a 5.68 kohm resistance). Turning by hand produces peaks in excess of 180vac so the bemf are violent and will saturate a spark gap easy if no caps is used. With a battery bank producing 108 volts, the motor uses .007 amp and run at about 60 rpm with nice torque. I just bought a power supply that has a range from 0-350v to make it easier to match power supply to coil voltage needs to obtain the 200 rpm needed for the alternator. I use the Newman commutator with 24 sectors, 12 + and 12 -. This should go to the lab soon for testing.
So, count me in for helping around,
Michel
The other side of the motor.
that looks really good, welcome to the forum. :D
My first prototype.
Hi Michelinho,
Welcome to the club.
Very very nice and impressive motor.
Did you see any 'OU' behavior?
You should be able to charge some batt. or
to not deplete the running bat or to get it self running
(unless for a while). Should you not?
Mine is very cheap and shabby.
It works anyway (No 'OU' noticed, though :)).
I have something more serious in hand.
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffreenrg.info%2FNewman_Type_Machine_Rep%2FMyNm1_small.jpg&hash=b5ce0ad04ff5cbffd35323aba8a604bd8a92a240)
BTW: no I did not build it after having drunk the bottle! ;D :P
Best
Thanks,
The motor runs well as I am still in the initial phase of the whole project. I still need to increase it's speed to a minimum of 200 rpm for the axial flux alternator. The only way to achieve it is by raising the input voltage to about 230/250 volts.
The variable power supply will allow me to do that and have it test under the oscilloscope. The recovery circuit will be added after the initial tests and retested for comparison. Then it will be time to design the final power supply probably from a cheap 12v/220-240vac inverter as a starting unit then with a 1:1 transformer, rectifying bridge and the rest neatly enclosed in a box with external connectors.
The electronic section is handled by my son-in-law as my knowledge is limited partly because I never had a need for it. I am not looking for OU but wont spit at it if occurs.
The Newman Motor secret is mainly in the commutator and it is also the first thing most replicators sidestep for simplicity reason with reed switches and relays. Its other secrets are the larger the better (for both coil(s) and heavy magnetic rotor(s)) and high voltage to supply the large coil(s).
Hat's off Joseph Newman.
Michel
@Michelinho,
Just an half baked idea:
With such elaborated machines you should be able to close the loop.
Why not connect your second motor to you first motor.
This first motor could, for example, charge a capacitor and
you should be able to close the loop after having
"grid-fed" your first motor for a short while.
Jan Louis Naudin was able to get his Newman motor
self ruining during 5 minutes. http://jnaudin.free.fr/html/nwjlself.htm (http://jnaudin.free.fr/html/nwjlself.htm)
You have 2 advanced Newman's motors so you should be able
to perform better. That is all I wish you.
Best
Hi NerzhDishual,
I have already contacted Jean Louis Naudin about my first contraption as it showed an unusual effect causing it to accelerate to 6,000 rpm without a close loop in the motor. The ground was connected to one side of the coil and the positive from my power supply to the main shaft, the motor with a small initial push started accelerating. I froze the design until we got it on the scope and analyze the results, from there with a few tweaks we got another 1,000 rpm on top of it. I sent him a video of the effect and he could not hint me on why it was acting that way but we found out not long after.
As closing the loop with the initial motor, it is not a good idea because the current version of the motor can do it alone with this commutator and I am building this unit for continuous use so the simpler the better. My 1st law for the project is "Keep it simple" and the second "Can be fixed with pliers and wire". The electronic components will be optional, not mandatory for every day use.
The V2.0 of the Newman Motor has enormous BEMF and that I tested crudely with wet fingers on the coil's connectors. Turned by hand at about 100 rpm, I can hardly hold them there as it feels like the old 15kv ignition coil. When energized with the battery pack, I just can't hold them on as my arm is jerked off from reflex.
The axial flux alternator that I am designing will have 3 magnet rotors and 2 stators for energy production and possibly a high voltage subsection just to energize the motor but that is still in a planning state. It is of the usual air core design as used in current DIY windmills. One thing I hope to do is couple their magnetic fields to gain efficiency but that might be tough to accomplish as the resultant magnetic ball will be hard to visualize even with our Gauss meter.
It's far from done, many hurdles ahead still.
Take care,
Michel
P.S.: The image show the V1.0 Newman Motor in generator mode turned by hand, the signal is unusual and pointed us to the solution.
***The time stamp is not right on the picture, the clock function was not set on the camera.***
@Michelinho,
Obviously, your are far more advanced that me in all these kind of Newman's motor matters.
I wish I could be able to build a "Little someting" that would "'merely" self run...
I'm a follower of the Shadoks's wisdom that asserts:
"The more it fails, the more chance of success".
Private Joke ;D
Best
Hi NerzhDishual,
QuoteObviously, your are far more advanced that me in all these kind of Newman's motor matters.
My understanding of the Newman Motor comes from hundreds of videos (thanks Ray0energy) , forum browsing, reading everything available for the last year and many brainstorming sessions with my son-in-law. Still it has many more deep concept secrets to uncover.
I have a box full of paper with ideas and sketches filling all sides. ::)
Ex: for the multi-segment commutator, a few hours of research, a month of sketches and a few hours to put it together. When you get the idea of how something work and you can visualize it in your head, the execution is easy. Visualizing a multi-segment commutator, specially the Newman's one is not apparent. His patent description of the commutator is good but it doesn't tell all, that part I am proud to say I decoded it but the final merit belongs to Joseph Newman who might not be with us for long as he is now acting like Mayer before his final departure. Great guy fighting a rotten system.
QuoteI wish I could be able to build a "Little someting" that would "'merely" self run...
Don't ever feel sorry for yourself about not getting OU or a self runner because very few have. It is the cherry on the cake but certainly not as filling as the cake. Trying has a lot more merits IMHO. Always have a paper and pencil handy, inspiration and creativity is not something you command. I designed my V2 Newman Motor in bed loaded on painkillers (2 herniated discs)2 days after coming home from the hospital.
Take care,
Michel
Quote from: Michelinho on August 02, 2008, 06:16:27 PM
Hi everyone,
I finaly decided to join this forum. Why? This look like the best one on Newman Motors replication and testing. I work on these radient energy devices with my son-in-law (water cracking and Bedini motors are what he thinkers with) who handles the electronic side and the testing of our replications. I am a retired diesel mechanic who loves to build unusual things. Earth batteries are in my next experimental projects.
I did my first replication last year and my second one is just done and getting ready to build the axial flux alternator to be coupled to it. I was impressed with the first prototype as it runs at about 6,000 rpm on 18 volts and .025 amp. We ran it on the scope and with a few tweaks, we got near 7,000 rpm out of it. Not much torque but plenty of speed with very nice bemf.
The second replication is much better on torque as the magnets are much stronger on a larger rotor (8 1"x1" cylindrical neodynium N50 on a 9" rotor) and the 2 coils use 41,000 feet bifilar awg 31 with a 5.68 kohm resistance). Turning by hand produces peaks in excess of 180vac so the bemf are violent and will saturate a spark gap easy if no caps is used. With a battery bank producing 108 volts, the motor uses .007 amp and run at about 60 rpm with nice torque. I just bought a power supply that has a range from 0-350v to make it easier to match power supply to coil voltage needs to obtain the 200 rpm needed for the alternator. I use the Newman commutator with 24 sectors, 12 + and 12 -. This should go to the lab soon for testing.
So, count me in for helping around,
Michel
DAMIT THAT IS BEST MOTOR I HAVE SAW EVER! I have seen many replications but this looking best! I will definetly do my replication like yours. Thank you much! Hope you get your motor run well. And you use same wire gauge as like I ordered (32AWG) Nice one!
Michelinho,
Just because my professional interest - what kind of those playwood setups did "accelerate to 6,000 rpm without a close loop in the motor" ?
*** Please precise appr. rotor dimensions *** and ***how many turns your "coil" has *** , *** what was used voltage ***
Perhaps we can see this well spinned rotor separately?
Kind regards,
khabe
Hi khabe,
QuoteJust because my professional interest - what kind of those playwood setups did "accelerate to 6,000 rpm without a close loop in the motor" ?
The V1 Newman motor I did had this setup:
Motor tested: Joseph Newman
2 coils oval shaped of 2500 tr of awg 32 (non bifilar)
Resistance of the coils: 294 ohms each
2 x 3"round Alnico 5 magnets mounted on a ferrite coupler.
0.25" shaft on ball bearings
Input voltage of 18.7 volts at .025 amp. (Also 2 x 9volts batteries in serie or 1 x 9v would also work fine)
The 2 coils were mounted very close together with the shaft going through the center. I was testing different commutator models and at one time, I left the power supply on while changing one I finished testing. While preparing a different commutator I turned the shaft to try to visualize the firing point and the motor started turning with the - connected to one end of a coil and the + was on the axle like for a tape commutator. The motor took about 30 minutes to go from 300 rpm to about 4,000 to 5,000 rpm. It took about an hour more to reach around 6,000 rpm. The phenomena that produced the acceleration was that a coil strand was very close to the shaft and the bemf pierced the insulation and was arcing on the shaft closing the loop and acting like a commutator with a dirty signal. That promots more and stronger bemf and cause the motor to amplify the effect.
That is why it was reproducible with a small contact on one brush being a small length of awg 32 wire with a contact enhancer (stabilant 22a). I have a video (8 meg) showing the effect that Jean Louis Naudin reviewed but I won't post it on YouTube, if someone wants to have a look, just supply me with a place to send. I didn't know at the time what was causing this enigma. I packed the motor, sent it to my son-in-law that tested the unit for a whole week on the scope and with a few of his brilliant ideas he got another 1,000 just changing the brush to a tiny size and a little bug juice (Stab22a). Tiny dirty contacts arc and act like a pulsed supply.
Thanks Careica. I am lucky to have the funds and tools available for my little project (I still need a lathe ;D ). I have a lifetime amount of junk and all the time in the world to play with these contraptions.
Take care,
Michel
P.S.: The plywood is Birch Russian made plywood, it is affordable and extremely well made with no air bubles in layers and the layer count is higher making it stiff even in 1/4" thickness. Every piece of wood used is sanded and coated with Varathane Crystal water based Diamond finish (dries in 30 min). Easier to clean and does the wood waterproofing.
Thank you very much for meticulous overview,
What is this you used to measure RPM?
My main interest was how you can get so high RPM when coil has avesome number of turns - awg 32 - its 0.2 mm, 0.032 mm2 of area ... 538 ohm/km.
I use this size wire very often ... but only when stranded 24...240...400 strands and lenght for wire per "coil" seldom exceed 12m .... but not about my motors we are speaking -
- unbelievable kV of yours - 6000 RPM/ 18.7V - means that kV=321 when 2500 turns of 0.2mm wire ??? Shorts via shaft could explane something but not all ...
Obviously magnetic flux is very weak - does not go deep through windings, why not to use Neodymium magnets - all possible shapes an sizes available?
Design of rotor still unclear - 3" magnets have very serious weight, it must to be very well balanced ... but all mounted on the plywood disc ??? and 0.25" shaft !!!
Thats because my serious concern about your own security as well as life and health all attendees in test room - I hope you have helmets for all crew included witnesses.
Best wishes,
khabe
::)
Quote from: khabe on August 05, 2008, 03:56:23 PM
Thank you very much for meticulous overview,
What is this you used to measure RPM?
My main interest was how you can get so high RPM when coil has avesome number of turns - awg 32 - its 0.2 mm, 0.032 mm2 of area ... 538 ohm/km.
I use this size wire very often ... but only when stranded 24...240...400 strands and lenght for wire per "coil" seldom exceed 12m .... but not about my motors we are speaking -
- unbelievable kV of yours - 6000 RPM/ 18.7V - means that kV=321 when 2500 turns of 0.2mm wire ??? Shorts via shaft could explane something but not all ...
Obviously magnetic flux is very weak - does not go deep through windings, why not to use Neodymium magnets - all possible shapes an sizes available?
Design of rotor still unclear - 3" magnets have very serious weight, it must to be very well balanced ... but all mounted on the plywood disc ??? and 0.25" shaft !!!
Thats because my serious concern about your own security as well as life and health all attendees in test room - I hope you have helmets for all crew included witnesses.
Best wishes,
khabe
::)
Well, I ordered my 0,2mm 1kg bobin weeks ago, still not comming :D But, what I have count, that from 1g of coil I get 3,6meters coil length. Because, site say that in that bobin is 3,6kilometes of coil. I have also couted, that 360 meters of coil give me 197 Ohms. First time, I tought to have 250 Ohms coil BUT I should use as many kilograms coil as possible, to get even better results. So I think to wind first 250 Ohms, try it whit 12V 7Ah Lead-Acid Battery, which should be best voltage when 250 Ohms, then I will double amount of coil and get 500Ohms and doulbe voltages to, put 2x 12V 7Ah L-A Batteries in series = 24V etc. And ofcorse, if I will get that OU, which make batteries recharge themself it could be good.
When impedance measured in hundred of ohms then no way to speak about getting any useful energy - you can get great figures on your voltmeter, nice figures and funny curves on the screen of oscilloscope - not much more. I do measure the impedance of my motors/generators in Milliohms - of course those are not overunities - just hight efficient machines.
Anyway - high interesting attend closely to what you are doing,
I hope success for you,
khabe
Wow! Very nice setup. Can you describe the torque on your second version with more detail?
Hi carbon_cc,
Sorry I can't say much about torque because I am still running it at about 40% of its input potential. I expect to run it at 250-300 volts and so far I limited it to 108 v but still I get good torque. My current power supply only does +/- 18 volts with center tap so too low for this version. I bought a high voltage variable power supply from Ebay that does 0-350 v but it is still at my US mailing address. I had to connect all my lead acid batteries in serie to get that 108v.
When I get it, I'll do a little test for torque mesurement, hope I know someone who has a digital scale, mine is an old lab one with a set of Standard Weights.
Safe day to you,
Michel
If the torqe is good at that voltage shouldn't you be able to mechanically gear up/down the altenator to 200 RPMs?
Hi kahbe,
I played with rc models and modified motors in my cars. That was a fun part of the rc trill. Shimming magnet back to move them a few thousand on an inch closer to the rotor, almost at the point of touching. Those are high power electrical motors.
The Newman Motor is different. It is a high efficiency engine, not because of it strong torque low, because of it input/output ratio of energy consumption. The drawbacks of the Newman motor are numerous and also the reason why it is not pick up my the mainstream industry. It has to be BIG and HEAVY to make any significant work but most of all, its rotational speed is and will always be to low for most motor application. That I don't deny.
The Newman motor will never compare in every day life to the small high efficiency electric motors available today and most other OU contraption out there. That's not why we try to make them work.
Now, for fun let's do the impossible...
Michel
Hi all,
I will try to address a few posts that I did not respond to or did not answer at the time.
kahbe
QuoteObviously magnetic flux is very weak - does not go deep through windings, why not to use Neodymium magnets - all possible shapes an sizes available?
Design of rotor still unclear - 3" magnets have very serious weight, it must to be very well balanced ... but all mounted on the plywood disc Huh and 0.25" shaft !!!
The neodynium are very powerful magnets but I did not have any at the time that would fit my design.
Yes the rotor needs to be balanced and to a few gr. I made a jig with 2 parallel rails and from there achieved a good balance.
The plywood is used in the construction of the frame, the rotor has a 1/4" shaft with a ferrous coupler to which the magnets are glued. The magnets have no chance of coming off in normal use. When I made the video, I protected from fly off.
Careica
QuoteSo I think to wind first 250 Ohms, try it whit 12V 7Ah Lead-Acid Battery, which should be best voltage when 250 Ohms, then I will double amount of coil and get 500Ohms and doulbe voltages to, put 2x 12V 7Ah L-A Batteries in series = 24V etc.
As you raise the voltage, the coil will produce a stronger magnetic field and the bemf will get very strong. Protect your coil to prevent a burn through (High BEMF that jumps in the coil and burns through wire insulation). Also try inserting a cap between your coil terminals, that will tame your bemf and give you additional rpm. You can also recover them a la John Bedini, his recovery circuit is easy to add.
Take care,
Michel
Quote from: Michelinho on August 07, 2008, 09:59:34 PM
Hi all,
I will try to address a few posts that I did not respond to or did not answer at the time.
kahbe
The neodynium are very powerful magnets but I did not have any at the time that would fit my design.
Yes the rotor needs to be balanced and to a few gr. I made a jig with 2 parallel rails and from there achieved a good balance.
The plywood is used in the construction of the frame, the rotor has a 1/4" shaft with a ferrous coupler to which the magnets are glued. The magnets have no chance of coming off in normal use. When I made the video, I protected from fly off.
Careica
As you raise the voltage, the coil will produce a stronger magnetic field and the bemf will get very strong. Protect your coil to prevent a burn through (High BEMF that jumps in the coil and burns through wire insulation). Also try inserting a cap between your coil terminals, that will tame your bemf and give you additional rpm. You can also recover them a la John Bedini, his recovery circuit is easy to add.
Take care,
Michel
Ok. How do I protect my coil from burning while hight BEMF spices? ;D
Hi Careica,
You can do it many ways. Neon bulb, capacitors and diodes are used. Check a few of RayOenergy videos, he shows how it is done. I leave my son-in-law do the electronic part, I just tell him what I need to do and he mix in how to best do it, sometimes with the only parts we have handy.
I use a spark gap http://czshengshi.manufacturer.globalsources.com/si/6008810216674/pdtl/Surge-protector/1003159320/2-electrode-Switching-Spark-Gap.htm (http://czshengshi.manufacturer.globalsources.com/si/6008810216674/pdtl/Surge-protector/1003159320/2-electrode-Switching-Spark-Gap.htm) and a 4uf 220vac capacitor in parallel across the coil or coils in series.
Hi all,
I miss this post...
The power supply has been checked fixed and improved.
The little Newman V1.0 went through hell... ;D
QuoteJ'ai fait des tests sur ton petit newman et mont? jusqu? 130v et jusqu'? 130 mA.
It was signing under 130v and upto 130ma, high rate of spin. Though little critter.
Take care all,
Michel
Hi all,
I started to build the alternator for the Newman motor V2.0. I simplified the design as time is getting short and my back keeps me from working for extended periods. I am also building a few prototypes of the Nathan Stubblefield cells so I may not have much time to roam the forum but I will still monitor a few times a day for questions or suggestions.
The final design is set and the rotors and stator are done with the exception of the coils. It is a dual rotors with 16 magnets ( 1 1/2" X 1" X 1/4" neo) on each and with the stator in 2 parts that I will be able to remove and fix if need be without dismantling the whole unit. The stator will slide in from the side and will be held with small aluminum tracks. I am not found of dismantling the rotors fighting with the bunch of magnets and risk injury. My coil winding jig is done and only need to split the magnet wire on two spools before starting.
The 12 coils will be bifilar awg 18 of about 90 turns which should give a nice output at low rpm. I already have my high power diodes and a few heatsinks to hold them, they are the type used in a Delcotron 100 amps. And today, my charge controller Xantrex C60 with the digital display panel came in, that will be used to start and stop the Newman according to the batteries charge.
I am taking pictures as I go along and will document the final kit and as all my kits, they are based on wood so no special machining is needed.
Take care,
Michel
This post tree is not being ignored. Keep it up if you have the strength and persistance. I have this post being watched with email notification.
Hi all,
Some news from the lab, the Newman V2.0 is undergoing tests and it looks like I will get the speed I need but I'll have to setup carbon brushes and a good recovery circuit as the bemf are saturating the spark gap at over 150V. I may need to mod the commutator according to my needs.
On the other front, my alternator is coming along well, I molded the coils in the frame and just need to connect the bifilar and output wires. The rotors are all done and just need the magnets to be set in. It's starting to look good and assembly should be this week.
Take care,
Michel
Re Hi all,
The rotors are almost ready, I just set the magnets and I might paint the steel discs tomorrow for a nicer finish.
Take care all,
Michel
EDIT: The pictures are before and after the magnets were installed. Each one of those have a 86.7 lb pull so I will be careful not to pinch a finger or two. Work safely as always.
Hi Michel,
looks very nice your alternator and Newman machine.
Keep up the good work.
The trick with the Newman motors is to
use many battery cells, best Lead-ACID or NiMH in series to get the voltage
very high , so the current draw from the batteries is very low.
So, if you want to have a Newman motor, say with 10 Watts mechanical power output,
you need to get around 100 mA current draw and 100 Volts battery supply voltage.
100 mA is still a bit too high for the current draw, so if you work cautiously and
know how to handle High Voltage DC system, you can also go to 1000 Volts
battery supply and 10 mA input current.
But if you want to use a Newman motor for an electroscooter (as I want to build it soon)
or for another vehicle, you should better stay around 100 Volts for safety, although 100 Volts
DC can also already kill you...
As the Newman motor produces free electrons at the sparking commutator by oxidizing
the graphite electrode, these free charges will recharge your battery within the BackSpike
and the batteries will last much longer, as if you had drawn 10 Watts DC current from your
batteries.
So the overunity effect will come into the batteries and the Newman motor can be operated much longer
on the same battery charge energy than a normal DC motor operate.
So using a Newman type motor will finally make electrical vehicals
very practical as the recharge interval will be greatly reduced.
So driving 150 miles with your Newman type electroscooter instead
of just 20 miles with normal DC motor electroscooter with one charge will
be a big difference...
Regards, Stefan.
Hi Michelinho,
do you make test for overunity with your Newman motors?
What you can say - overunity or not?
Hi altium,
No test for OU done yet, it is still not running at it's peak efficiency. My son-in-law is testing the big Newman while I build the alternator that it will have to run at 200+ rpm. The voltage will have to rise up to the challenge and I hope it is not higher than the power supply peak capacity of 500vdc@0.200A. I may end up building a Faraday cage for it with High Voltage signs. ;D
As soon as he is satisfied with it, we will couple it to the alternator and see where we stand. I might have to build a bigger unit. ;D
Take care,
Michel
Hi all,
Short update with a few pictures of the alternator which is almost complete.
Take care,
Michel
Very nice looking!
We will waiting for news from you...
;D Your replication looks and sounds great. I just finished the mechanical working on my version 2 and started building a miniature motor that I will try to incorporate into my electric scooter for charging. My second version has great speed and torque...I may even need to get new bearings. I used 2 coils. One is bifiliar and one isn't. I connected the non bifiliar with one of the bifiliar to crate my gen coil and the other bifiliar wire is my motor. I tried several combination's and this was the one that produced the best overall results. As soon as I get it tested I'll post my results. I have a short video of the version 1 on youtube. Check it if you like. Do you have any video of yours running? I'd like to make a smaller version of the commutator and have been rolling ideas in my head for clandestine construction. I think I could make a pcb in the config of the commutator and mount it on some heavy backing...maybe lexan? what do you think?
I'm a self educated and very careful electrician. Any help anyone can throw my direction is quickly placed into my treasure trove. Even though I'm still having some problems fully understanding the circuit...I keep trying!
here is the link to my youtube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nm781gw9VYg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nm781gw9VYg)
Keep up the excellent work!
K
My Newman motor version 1
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi35.tinypic.com%2F2q0oto0.jpg&hash=538619ffe8071155f07b573be7aa422d1ed0be12)
Hi Kzip,
Thanks, I have a video of the Newman V1.0 but it is not posted (If you have an email where I can send it minniemouse@linuxmail.org). I checked your video, nice replication and very neat setup. When you get the V2.0 on youtube, post a link for us.
If you want to use the Newman to recharge batteries, I highly recommend that you use a multi segments commutator as it will give you the same level of bemf with more charging pulses.
I have to change my design and go to the 2 contacts commutator setup as over 150Vdc, the bemf are much too strong. The Newman will drive the alternator and will not be used to recharge the battery bank, the alternator will do that. To get the rpm I need, I will need to raise the potential much higher than 150Vdc
QuoteI'm a self educated and very careful electrician.
Pretty much like me as I do plumbing, electricity, mechanical work and other stuff. My son-in-law keeps telling me my brain is not too messed up with the crap they show in school. ;D
My work go slow lately as I have to live on painkillers and the new batch mess me up too much for safe working. Here is the latest update on the alternator, pretty much finished with only the two terminal blocks to screw on and varnish the whole thing. On the second photo, I spinned the alternator by hand to light up the 12v pilot light so I could capture it actually doing work. Looks promising.
Take care,
Michel
I have an idea for constructing a commutator.
The idea occurred to me before I looked at your commutator construction but I looks like you have done something similar. I'd like to see where you are shorting out on your com...I think I see but would like clarification please
Just a thought to run by you and the OU community...
How about the idea of making a PCB commutator? circular with the multiple contacts that start very narrow in the center and widen at the circumference? this was the commutator could be adjusted closer to the center or edge to increase or decrease the contact time? I though of mounting a copper plate on the back side for strength and conductivity??? ...all bones tossed my way will be chewed thoroughly:)
Still waiting for your vid...did you get my email?
Peas,
Kevin ;D
Hi Kzip,
The commutator uses a firing section followed with a blank section then a wire acts as short and then there is a blank space to allow the brushes to exit the short wire. So Firing-Blank-Short-Blank then all over again. The short is one wire that is threaded all around the commutator (on mine), it is used to reset the coils to zero potential before the contact is turned on again otherwise the flow could meet some bemf ringing leftover (in a multisegments commutator, J.N. uses 20 segments on his big motor).
I would not try a PCB commutator as it would be too lite duty for what I will use the Newman for but for testing purpose it would do fine. I use copper tape, the one used for Tiffany lamp making, it is about $10 cdn for a roll of 36 yards (about 33 meters), it is easy to install, quite long lasting and it can be remove in no time for a new setup. It will even resist carbon brushes for a few weeks.
Take care,
Michel
EDIT: No email yet.
Nice work Michel. Maybe I should be asking you these questions? :o
Have you checked the magnetic fields of the coils during alternator operation?
0c
Hi Oc,
No, I did not check the magnetic field. I just made a new rotor for it and now redoing the commutator. When I am done, I will try to get the measurements with my son-in-law Gauss meter.
Take care,
Michel
Hi everyone,
I just finish the new commutator for the Newman motor. I was feeding it with my HV power supply and it did run smoothly from 150VDC to 435VDC (~100 to 400 rpm) which is the power supply max output, the neon (250V) was shinning bright. I just love the smell of Ozone from the high voltage. :)
I will make more tests later.
Take care,
Michel
Hi all,
A few pictures to show the new rotor and commutator. I adjusted the brushes today and the motor is running smooth. I even got the power supply to feed in ~460VDC and 0.034A giving now around 500 RPM. The torque is not bad, enough to turn the alternator to about 200 RPM but if I put a load, the motor slows to a crawl. The motor is definitely not strong enough.
Take care,
Michel
2 more pictures of the commutator. You see the point where the polarity reverses.
Michel
Hi,
nice design,
but you need to make a bigger blank section,
where your commutator reverses, so that the no current flow blank segment
is bigger than the width of your comutator brushes.
This way a better spark will form and you will get a better kick to propell the magnet.
Also your magnet seems to be only one small magnet at the end of each rod ?
Maybe get some more magnets into it, so you will have more torque.
Try to concentrate on the Back current spike power, which will recharge
your power supply, cause this is the real overunity energy.
The mechanical output will be probably below 100 %.
So better use some lead acid batteries in series to power the motor
and see, how long it will run on the batteries.
P.S: Try different
commutator angle current reverse switch positions versus the rotor position inside the coil.
This way you can optimize the mechanical output versus the electrical spike current
output or vice versa.
Quote from: hartiberlin on March 11, 2009, 05:04:47 PM
Also your magnet seems to be only one small magnet at the end of each rod ?
Maybe get some more magnets into it, so you will have more torque.
I agree. Plus you may need to make your rotor wider and longer with more magnets. In the case of the rotor, I believe bigger and stronger is better. The closer you get your strong magnets to the coil the more flux lines your coil will have access too. That should improve your torque. The only downside would be arcing from the coil to the rotor, I believe...
Hi all,
The brush holder for the coil brushes is adjustable +/- 45 degree from TDC. It can be adjusted with the motor running. It is on a round wood bushing sitting around the shaft bearing. The commutator blank spaces are 1.5X the width of the brushes and should not short out.
The 2 magnets are N48 1"X1" Neodymium with 87.6 lb of pull. The clearance between the magnets and the coil is 5mm. The rotor is made of carbon steel with a weight of 2lb.
To get more torque, beefier magnets would be needed but also a thicker magnet wire coil setup. As is the motor runs with 460VDC and 0.034A after tuning the motor/brushes setup. I don't have enough lead acid batteries to go that high in potential.
I will make a small alternator for the present motor and see if I can get as close to COP=1 as possible.
Take care,
Michel
P.S.: It will be easier to build a new motor than to mod this one. I don't feel like unwinding about 50,000 feet of awg31 magnet wire...
Michelinho said:
Quote
...I did my first replication last year and my second one is just done and getting ready to build the axial flux alternator to be coupled to it....
>>Hi all,
Michelinho has interesting photos unloaded to the forum, but my question is:
Is the schematic available for uploading or otherwise being rendered in ASCII keyboard notation?
Newman's patent, or application, #WO8300963, had a basic schematic in the drawings. I had thought of trying to replicate it inexpensively with a 20" box fan arrangement similar to his patent/application or the Muller motor/generator.
Newman's work is shown on http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk (in .html)
--Lee
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