I am not an expert in electronics, but I wanted to share this experiment. I used a car automotive coil hooked to a small bifilar coil of wire to make hydrogen with two spoons. Normally, if you take the 20,000 volt spark plug wire and attach it to the spoons (electrodes) in distilled water, you do not get any hydrogen. The electric current is dissipated in the liquid and absolutely nothing happens. The car coil alone will NOT make hydrogen from distilled water. However, tonight I tried hooking up the car coil to a blocking diode, and after that, I hooked up a small 400 turn bifilar coil with a 3/4" opening in the center. The wire is 24 gauge and 27 gauge (Ideally I think the wire should be the same size but I had this laying around).
I used my computer as a signal generator, 25 Hz (not Khz) and I hooked up the stereo speaker wire directly into the spark module that came from the car. The spark module is triggered by about 1/2 a volt AC so you can use a stereo speaker wire to trigger it (just don't hook it directly to your sound card - just in case). For the first time ever, I was able to create hydrogen using two stainless steel spoons dipped into a glass of distilled water. I took my oscilloscope and measured the output between the spoons and I got an exact frequency doubling (50.00 hz exactly).
Now, I am totally shocked that this worked. I have tried over and over again to make hydrogen using a high voltage coil, but it appears that the pumping effect of this circuit makes it work. Since I am not an expert in electronics, I could be misunderstanding what is happening. Nevertheless I am going to keep experimenting because it does appear that I have found something.
- 22 volts total per voltage spike (NOT high voltage according to the scope)
- 20,000 volts does not work when used directly, it just gets dissipated by the liquid.
This is NOT an exact Stanley Meyer replication, but it uses the same principles that he developed. It is a good way to learn. If you have an extra car coil, I suggest you experiment! Apparently the automotive coil will work fine as a transformer in the VIC circuit.
List of specifics:
- 1984 Toyota Celica Coil With attached spark module
- Bifilar coil wound on radioshack plastic spool with 24 gauge wire, 27 gauge wire (400 turns) - air core (less voltage spikes with iron core)
- 1000 ohm 1/4 watt resistor on speaker wire coming from home stereo, car amplifer, audio output from computer.
- Free program called "SIGJenny"
- 50% mark space ratio, 25 hz
- 12 volt motorcycle battery
- Two stainless steel spoons - small
- 1 glass 1/2 full of distilled water
- Spoons are separated by one small piece of plastic zip tie, little less than 1/16" thick
- Electrical tape to hold spoons together
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.h2ofuelkits.com%2Fimages%2FVIC%2FMy_screen_shot_first_hydrogen_car_coil.jpg&hash=ce05bae15ef038d8ae1fe7385403c32c9983d91e)
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.h2ofuelkits.com%2Fimages%2FVIC%2FMeyer_VIC_replication.gif&hash=bcb1f1306d26da9bd2060523493af1f822f0c366)
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.h2ofuelkits.com%2Fimages%2FVIC%2FHydrogen_Resonance%2520copy.gif&hash=ec9c008cef5e089e8752d5ae48607f3543f979ef)
Hey supermuble,
can you please post a diagramm of the circuit ? It is hard to figure out in your pic, especially the orientation of the diode.
What is the power in here ? Can you reprot the threshold at which the gas-production started ?
Regards
Kator01
So I hope I was able to contribute in some very small way. I managed to destroy my computer sound card, and my Oscilloscope! My scope was brand new, and it's shot now. Being an idiot, I removed an alligator clip and the 20,000 volts jumped to the electrical connections, destroying everything in it's path! What is scary is that the voltage went through my car audio amplifier that was attached to my PC and it still managed to wreck my PC sound card - so much for protecting my sound card. IF YOU ARE GOING TO USE A CAR COIL - SOLDER YOUR CONNECTIONS. Don't be an idiot like me! I hope we have learned something at my expense! :o LOL
If you know how to be safe, then we can try this experiment again. Please do NOT use alligator clips! Solder the wires!
What is unusual in this experiment is that we are using pure Back-EMF to induce a 2nd Back-EMF spike. I don't know if that is what Stanley Meyer intended, probably not.
An auto ignition coil is obviously not designed as a normal step up transformer. It is designed for creating a spark, and that's it. It works on the principle of a sharp Back-EMF being created in the secondary coil by the immediate collapsing of the primary magnetic field. The only way you can collapse the primary coil is with the use of a condenser (capacitor) on the negative. When you switch the negative "OFF" which is done when the points open/or when the ignition module disconnects, then the negative wire must be able to discharge into a capacitor. This is what makes the field collapse quickly and this creates the Back-EMF in the secondary. The back EMF spike is VERY short duration.
The spark its self is actually only back EMF. If you put AC voltage or DC voltage (12 volts) into the coil, the back EMF spike is not created in the secondary coil and you don't get anything close to 20,000 volts, in fact, the spark won't even jump through open air. The condenser (spark modules have this built in) is responsible for adding about 10 times the voltage to the spark output. I have tested automotive coils with straight DC and I cannot induce a spark.
So we are doing something unusual. We are creating a huge inductive spike and pushing that into a bifilar coil, which in turn is forced to create another spike since that is what happens when you pulse an inductor coil with a sharp DC pulse. You get two pulses of the same polarity. So on my meter, this was apparent. I got 50 HZ from 25 hz, so I was inducing another Back-EMF spike as usual in the small bifilar inductor I was using.
Now there is a circuit diagram. It should be easier to replicate if you are crazy and foolish :)
(https://overunityarchives.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.h2ofuelkits.com%2Fimages%2FVIC%2FMeyer_VIC_replication_diagram.gif&hash=df2003a7597cd56b1d8906f72ca98da4f32488a7)
Maybe someone smarter than myself can figure out how much power I was using?
I was using 50% duty cycle, at 25 hz. The spark duration is 300 Microseconds. Voltage is approx 30,000 volts. Approximate amperage during discharge .03 to .06 amps on a normal ignition system.
The coil is connected directly (no spark gap) so more energy is being consumed than would be normally consumed by a spark plug right?
yup
just a little detail but your diode is facing the wrong direction.
:D Maybe that diode being backwards explains the low voltage on the scope? LOL
After reviewing my videos and pictures, it is obvious that the pulse step charging was working. From what I heard, people only get a few volts across the plates, because the voltage somehow does not go up as high as it should in "theory". Apparently my 22 volt spikes across the plates is actually pretty decent. Somehow it was step charging and working with the diode backwards. I am going to try to replicate the experiment again tonight. I've cleaned everything really well using distilled water as to prevent any electrolyte build up. This time I am going to try using 5 or more diodes in parallel from the coil going in the correct direction :)
I tried last night to make hydrogen bubbles using the same setup, but with a fixed duty cycle square wave. It didn't make even one bubble. Obviously the pulse frequency is very important to make the circuit charge the water.
Hi. Thanks for the input. ;D
I was experimenting tonight, and without a capacitor discharge on the coil, you get only about 10% power from the spark across a normal spark plug gap. Hook up a capacitor on the negative, and when it switches off, the capacitor is in a completely discharged state. The capacitor discharges the primary coil, producing more spark. This is a known fact at least according to my tests and the documented design of the automotive ignition system. Were you referring to a step up transformer or something that uses AC voltage input? Automotive coils use clipped DC voltage, that is on only for a fraction of a second, (2.0 to 5.0 ms) to be exact. On old vehicles with points, the distributor could reduce dwell time enough (on time) so they had to put in a large resistor to back down the current so the coil wouldn't burn up. At high speed the coil would run out of power since it was going through a resistor.
In my examples, when I say you need a condenser, I am talking about a car ignition system that uses two coils as a step up transformer, and the resulting spark is pure back EMF, and nothing else. No spark occurs when you first put power to the coil. When you disconnect the coil, a very small weak spark ensues. However, if you discharge the negative terminal of the coil into a cap, you get tremendous spark, at least 10 times stronger, or more. I know, because I've used every type of automotive coil there is and none of them work without a capacitor on the negative to discharge it faster.
The condenser does reduce the spark at the points because it provides a place for the coil to discharge as the points begin to crack open. If the condenser wasn't there, the points would arc pretty dramatically as the points were beginning to open just before the (off) period where the spark occurs.
I could be completely misunderstanding the principles, but I do know that the capacitor does increase spark performance dramatically. I like to learn new things, so I try to be open minded. If there is something I am missing, feel free to chime in.
I think I'm done using a scope on my automotive coil. The voltage is too high and I have to send my scope back to hong kong to get it serviced. So no more of that.
I have been trying to replicate my voltage pumping effect I had, and I haven't been able to get it. I have been able to make some hydrogen again by replicating the same experiment, and I did find that it works best with the diode facing negative (towards the ignition coil). I tried opening up the gap on the spoons and the hydrogen bubbles stopped completely, and I was never able to replicate the first experiment again. As it seems, I think you need a very very small gap with the spoons. I am going to experiment tomorrow by using a very small electrode, something even smaller than the spoon. The bubbles only seemed to come from one spot on the spoon anyway. In normal electrolysis, bubbles form on everything since it is driven by current, and the voltage field doesn't matter much. Well in my experiment above, the bubbles only came from the area of the spoon that was almost touching together with the other one. The very very tight gap (about 1/32" or less) produced a stream of little bubbles. The rest of the spoon's surface didn't bubble a bit. I am going to experiment more tomorrow and I'll post the results.
If anyone can come close to replicating what I did, let me know. So far it is proving very difficult!
Hi Art,
Thanks for the long winded response. I appreciate insight. It is enjoyable having new insight. Electricity is something that is difficult to learn without experimenting. Simply putting it on paper and reading a book is not the right way to learn. You need to read, put it on paper AND experiment. Some electrical engineers still don't believe that you can tap into an infinite supply of electricity. Well the truth is, it has already been done. So whether or not you believe it, it doesn't matter. It has been done, so experiments need to be done before giving up and saying it isn't true! Sadly, the most formally educated people are usually so indoctrinated that they cannot perform experiments because it is against their ritualistic belief system. These people could contribute so much if they could only think outside the box for just a moment.
Regarding an ignition coil, I have tested dozens of them. They only spark if you have a capacitor discharge on the negative. If you just disconnect the negative wire, the spark is 10 times weaker, at least according to my eye sight. The spark barely jumps a 1/16" gap without a capacitor/condenser. A transistorized ignition must still have a small capacitor built into the unit in order to produce the spark that it does because the principles haven't changed. If I am wrong, please explain how the new solid state ignitions can drain the primary coil just as fast as a set of points with a condenser.
Yes, rate of change is the key. Ignition coils charge for 2.0 to 5.0 ms on newer fuel injected cars with standard 12 volt coils. If you charge them longer than that, the engine runs exactly the same with no increase in spark performance, however the coil gets hot, and energy is wasted. This can damage the coil and the spark module over time since they are passing more current than necessary.
As far as replicating my experiment, I think you will find that it doesn't do anything. In Stanley Meyers speeches, he seems to indicate that you should use a more typical transformer that has 600 or 1000 volts and then use the inductors to restrict current (lots of windings) while multiplying the voltage. Whether or not he was telling us the truth, who knows. I have heard so many stories. I don't know what to believe, that is why I decided to start experimenting. Experiments can teach you what NOT to do. They can teach you the wrong way to do things, and sometimes that is better than sitting on our ____ and not doing anything.
I think with an automotive coil, we need to use a module that is a "DUMB" module. Dumb modules have no dwell control. They use the computer on the vehicle to limit dwell, or they use a resistor on the coil to limit power. When you hookup a dumb module on the test bench, they will overcharge your coil and make it really hot. But, they would probably function better in a circuit designed for a step up transformer with variable duty cycle. Dumb modules have variable duty cycle. They will charge your coil forever until you disconnect the trigger signal. The trigger signal would set the duty cycle - instead of the module setting it's own duty cycle/dwell.
An example of the module we need is a newer VW/Audi/BMW spark module made by Bosch. If you search google for "DUMB" Bosch spark module, you will actually find a lot of websites telling you where to find them. I don't know if the HEI is a dumb module or not. You may want to check. IN this case, we want a DUMB module!
I was working on something like you have there with the automobile coil, but removed the paint on the coil before the top of the coil; just enough paint removal and installed a hose clamp on it with that as my negative to the WFC and did not use any diodes. Big mistake. My oscilloscope went off scale when the probe got next to the high tension wires. and wound up with a damaged PWM.
Any progress??:)