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YEP I FINALLY STARTED A THRED FOR NEO ZAP ..

AND MY ARC REACATORS 814 ... AND THE OTHERS THAT ARE TO COME ... 

HERE I WILL LAY OUT THE ENTIRE SYSTEM ... 

IM BUILDING A SINGLE UNIT TO LITE AT LEAST 1 60W LITE BULB ...  I WOULD EXPECT MORE FROM A SINGLE UNIT ...  BUT IT WILL LITE A 60 WATT 120VAC BULB TO FULL BRIGHTNESS..

60 W WAS THE LARGEST I EVER TRYED TO LITE ...  IM NOT SAYING IT WONT LIGHT HIGHER WATTAGE BULBS .. IM SURE IT WILL ..  BUT I NEVER TRYED TO ...

MATERIALS

1 COIL LOW INDUCTANCE ON A FERROITE RING ROD WHAT EVER ...
2 NEOS
1 CARBON ROD ..
1 ADAPTOR
ANY WHERE FROM 12VDC 1 AMP TO 30VDC ... 

AND THATS ALL FOLKS ....  A LIGHT BULB ... LOL

SURE IT USES POWER ...  SO WHAT !!  ;D



DO NOT USE IRON ....

IT WILL SELF DESTRUCT ... 

YOU CAN USE IRON AT THE RIGHT FREQ BUT I LIKE MY THINGS TO RUN FAST AND IRON IS FAR TOO SLOW ... PLUS IM NOT A BIG FAN OF ALL THE HEAT ... LOL

NOW WHY DOES RICHARD WILLIS .... USE OIL TO COOL THE COILS ...  LMAO !!!!   

I HAVE NOT FIGURED THAT OUT MY SELF YET ... 

I GUESS HE DOSENT KNOW AND THE DRAGONS DEN GAVE HIM 1 MILLION IN FUNDING ... FOR WHAT? SOMETHING HE DOES NOT UNDERSTAND!!!!

LOL LMAO

IST!

I HAVE HAD GOOD RESULTS JUST USEING THEASE AS MY COIL ..

THEASE ARE FROM A MAGNATRON FROM A MICROWAVE ...

IST

CASE AND POINT IS ... ANY PEICE OF FEROITE AND ANY WIRE WILL WORK JUST FINE ... 

NOT TOO MANY TURNS THO ....  ;)

IST,

thanks for the info...can you supply a shcematic by any chance..... im curcious as to "where" the bulb is connected.

i tried my bulb in parallel across the coil, it lit, but only dimmly, no where near as bright as yours, so im guessing that i do not have the bulb in the same place as yourself.

Thanks again

David. D

i will be adding schematics soon ... 

i have taped both sides of the neos b4  as showen in the 60w video ..

but i had a real nice plasma ball going in that video

but i have also taped the carbons ...  1 from each side ..   so it can only flow to the bulb ..

also the faster it runs the better .. 

i have been trying to find better spark gaps ..

xee2 just suggested spark plugs...   ;D

im a have to try em !

your most welcome !! 

W

i have decided to start slow insted ... 

it is hard to let the beast run wild and keep from burning things out ......    so do to my laque of any funding ... 

i will compleate it as i aquire the more delicate parts to fully build the arc reactor properly ...

but until then i will use it fully controled ..  still let it run wild but in short pulses ...  same can and will be done with the ist sg 36 rof

and now you can use steel core coils   but now this is touching on 2 freqs ....  no NEED FOR PERFECT RESOSNANCE ...   in fact if you find it .... it will blow up your toys ...

so lets stay away from that ... 

for now  ;)

im almost done moveing ...  most things are not around me so much so i will use what i have found in my packing process ..  i have a peice of  bronze weilding rod ...  it makes a super blasting sound ..  but it melts if ran in peroids of time ...  so we dont wanna do that .. but i found some things i will use to hold the diffrent spark gaps i will build

ill post pics of all the parts ...

ill build and assemble it tonight

for the carbon rods i found 1/4 " head phone jacks to work well and i got a bunch of them .... 

so yea just an up date ...  that i cannot properly build the arc reactor  right now ... verry soon tho ..

ist

ok back at it ..

ingridents

a mot  MOT= MICROWAVE OVEN TRANSFORMER 

and i got my sparker unit almost done ill add some pics  of this entire setup 

same deal as the arc reactor but we will control this one ..  and not let it get too hot ...

a 12vdc realy a pulser fet driver curcuit ..

and ill add more to it soon including some neos to zap .. and a bulb socket to test with ..

pics ...

ist!

here is my you tube video of this driver circuit at work ...

ist!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBjN0wO05-w

agin there quite a few ways this unit as showen can be configured to operate ..

1 way im considering is take the colapse from the relay send it throuth the gap to a full wave bridge then to the mot ...

or ....  honestly many ways ...

if i keep the colapse cold probally no heat at the the gap then ....  if i use hot power with a few amps ...  than it will run hot at the gaps and the unit should be wired a little diffrently .. this will work too ..  but in this unit it must be pulsed   the relay in that configuration should run slow ...  slow pulses at close to the speed that the core material can handle .. 

the first way ... the relay is required to run fast ...   i know the colapse of the relay can power the mot as it has blowen fets on me in the past .. so ill work out all the details ...

and post as i go as i do

right there with ya IST, got my MOT & realy & 555( at the moment its hooked up to a mosfet, but can switch over np's )........lets goooooo 'disrupt' some.

David. D

Quote from: rave154 on August 08, 2009, 09:47:12 PM
right there with ya IST, got my MOT & realy & 555( at the moment its hooked up to a mosfet, but can switch over np's )........lets goooooo 'disrupt' some.

David. D

im verry happy you came to join us here bro !!

you have a verry intresting video on youtube ...  ;D

awesome work ....   i must say!!!!

well lets build her!!  and video demo the entire unit once built ...

W

btw     my relay is dubble pole dubble throw ...  cuz we can do npn and pnp mechanical switching with it if we build it accordingly ...   to do this we must protect the relay i have melted down relays in the past same way the carbon rods glow bright red ...  so how about a bridge off the switches ... so it can not back flow to the relay  ;D 8)

i look at my unit and i come up with toooooo many ways to build it ... this has always been a problem of mine and i cant draw schems well at all ... 

im useing an irf 840 ... mosfet   it is a npn unit  so it is much the same as the jt ...  in the way i recover from the fet it has built in recovery as i was gonna use a 12vdc battery controled by a freq genny ... by original design for the bords ... i have built ..

so the fly back off the relay was to recharge the driveing battery .. but

we will complicate things a bit to iron out the buggs  ;D

this is what i think i may well do with this unit ..   i will use the driver as showen it is a pwm circuit but off the fet i put a bridge ..  to a cap so

this is what i see happining in my mind in a single pulse to this part of the system

the fet turns on at the rate we choose from the pot and the cap  this is doing only neg switching to power the relay coil only .. when we turn off the fet the relay coil inductive flyback back flows right back to where it came from ... 

ok so now as soon as we turn on the unit the engery flows to switch on the relay but if we have a bridge rectifier on the input \ return flyback ...  ps across the fet ....  and a recovery cap .. 

then it wil turn on the relay as well as fill the cap to the driveing voltage .. of the unit ..  now when it shuts off it flys back but can not return to the leds and is only allowed to fill the recovery cap to a much higher voltage .. basiclly you tell it where to go ...  much the same a portection on the bedini only redirrect to a cap ...  wich will have a bleed off diode from the cap back into a recovery battery ..  this can run with 1 battery or 2 as in the ist 808 sky coil ..  or the tesla switch ...

same same then when the 1 gets low flip it to the other that is recharged and just flip the recharge diode as well ...  so bedini ..  this is the RELAY COIL ONLY FREQ GENNY AND FET THE LOW VOLTAGE END OF THE CHAIN ...

this will offer self chargeing  continual or perpetual driveing source ..   and protection from the spikes that can harm the driveing gear..

now basiclly the same on the relay contact side of things but we will use high amp rated bridges on this side and we will pulse pnp and npn in sync on the higher amp end ...  the mot input and spark gaps ... since i have choosen both pos and neg in sync  i will likely reverse the rods on the spark gaps accordingly so that the bronze will remain colder at all times in both dirrections ..  and the carbon can get hot ... it will not affect it as i have seen it still loves to work ...  then we could add neos in the gaps in the proper oreintation  or we can quench the gaps as tesla did ..

sooo many ways ...  for now i will work on the relay unit the low voltage side ..

i had to replace a led in the board as a kick blew it up some time ago ...  so it needs some mods nothing is perfect at first crack and that was the first unit i built aside the bread board ... i have built many the exact same as this board ....  they apear to work well ....

we will  get the low end recovery down first tho ..

ist!

IST,

im not sure exactly which video youre referring to, i did have one also of me putting a 12v 100mA bulb in a glass of water while the HV from the ignition coil was across it, but i took it down in case young-uns saw it and thought it was kewl and tried to do it.

i have 4 identical 30A, SPDT auto relays here ready to go.

i got NEO's up the wazooo ( that didnt come out sounding right ! ), 2  MOT's, 4 ferrite donut magnets from the micros, bulbs, and transistors etc galore, the full works.....lets do some disruptin.

sorry for the multiple post here but i forgot,

i also have....
YUASA 12V, 7AH batts x 2
12V, 1.2AH batts x 2
APC 12V, 7AH batts x 2 ( but these are "dead", 5V on each or so, going to try to bedini them back to life today ) x 2
2.1KV caps x 2
15uF 450V AC cap ( motor starter )
220uF 400V ( from CRT board )
47uF 450V cap
4.7uF 450V cap
various caps assorted ( and resistors of course ) the full range
2N3055 x 9
TIP2955 x 4
BD912 x 3
BFY51 x 2
2N2222A x 4
2N5551 x 2
2N5401 x 2
IFR540A x 5
IRF740 x 3
also opto-isolators to hand
555's galore

mag wire, 20, 24, 28, 32AWG
8 breadboards
3 DMM's, 1 analog MM,1 analog ammeter(15A) and a scope.

just listing these in case you come up with any ideas but dont have a specific component to build it, then i can always throw it together on this end.

awesome bro your rock and were gonna rock this plannet called earth  ;D ;)


ist!   ;D ;D ;D ;D

i also have 4 of those curly thick wire thingies from the magnetrons which i saved, was gonna throw em away but i thought " nahh...i might just use em for something"...strange how fate works sometimes.

im itchin' to get to work on this.

im working on it bro ...

basically all my pwm curcuit is..... is a verry basic forced freq  jt with 1 single coil all im doing is rectifiing the fly back on the relay coil dumping to a cap ....  than back feeding into the driveing battery or tesla switch style driveing batteries  depending on configuration you choose

bedini  sm bla bla bla many many have used this trick in the past   wich tesla discovered...  and was understood by the old cultures ..

ok so i think it may be best with npn fets to only scoop the free stuff not use the on cycle to fill the cap ..  maybe a push button that FILLS THE CAP FIRST ...  to the driveing voltage ..

this seams to suit my usage ...  that way i took from the driveing battery enough to fill the ou cap to the the driveing voltage first then the first and following fly back will compound in that cap untill there is enough PUSH to feed back into the battery ....  ;D  and honestly with the push button i never took a thing from the battery i only shifted it to a cap and still have it on reserve ..

dont get me wrong the coil consumes power i dont care bout that tho ...

so it will return more and we will put it to work rechargeing batteries ..  this is only my driveing coil for my mechanical switches to switch high current!!

;D

william 

cant wait to see a vid /  schematic * drooling*

IVE BEEN DRAWING ERRRRRRR

here is the 555 pulser im useing in my controller

1 555
1 470 resistor
1 led
1 100k pot
1 10 uf cap

ill add the  the fet in the next drawing

if anyone wants to build this with me and post pictures ...  that would be great !!

i found this to work well for me so far  and its simple just a pain to draw ... tho

ist!

IST,

here is the PWM circuit that i use, its basically the right hand half of the Dave Lawton HHO PWM circuit, works nice because it allows control of both frequency and duty cycle.... but..whatever works to get thing sparking.

i will just have a cup of tea to wake up properly, and then i will knock up your circuit quickly.

well something happened to my unit ...

dont know what it just keeps poping 555's so ... 

yea

i guess ill build a new one i was hopeing this unit was working as the rest are moved already ...

if i can still find my bread board ill whip up a new one make a video and post the pictures on the bread board .. 

basically all i think we need for this unit is a small simple pulser .. just to turn off and on the relay thats all recover to recharge source .. 

but phase 2 is a bit diffrent more like the arc reactor .. lol

ist

rebuilding


i cant seem to find a 10 uf cap i wanted it to pulse slow ... got lots of 1uf...  but not 10  :(

ill keep looking tho

i think the fet needs playing i was gonna use a bridge where your diode is but you could simply take the diode off the source  and add it to the coil so it fires twice ...  ;D where it flys back into the fet the diode grabs it and rectifies it  but we might need a revrse polarity hook up on the other end of the coil  cuz it will be pos pulse ... 

so in effect we use a npn pulse neg to the coil after  we cut the flow it flys back cold ... we rectifiy
it in the diode  then we get a higher voltage positive pulse that can be used on the same coil ..

tic bang   tic (-) bang = cold then diode = hot higher voltage ...  dump to coil . or cap and recharge

bang = returning kick 

the pattern would be      - r+ - r+ - r+                               rt= returning pos

now we can do the same with pnp switching ...  and get cold ac ... unrectified ...   ;D 8)

i have a feelign the 555 is popping cos of a kick somewhere getting back to it.

if its any help, i have another 555 circuit, feeding to an opto-isolator, which in turn fed to an ignition coil, which ran lovely, no HV problems getting back to the 555 at all, completely isolated from it.

FOR WHATEVER REASON ALL MY CHIPS ARE NOW OFFICALLY BLOWN ...

THIS IS WHY I HATE THIS GARBAGE ..... 

IT IS CRAP ....  BUT THATS ALL THEY EVER SOLD THE PUBLIC!!!!

SO ILL BUILD IT BETTER  :P

HAHAHAHA

take a moment,

take your moment,

man up,

then just do it

(time's a wastin )

here is another way it can be done same thing ... 

use a relay bell or buzzer in line with it ...

that will work ok for iron core units ..

i might just do this ...  for this unit for now and just tap off it

when i get moved ill put the controller on it ..

well i will play with a self buzzing relay for now and test the gaps and the neo zap

ist!

ok, i just burned my way through a couple of 555's... finally got my sound card signal generator hooked up to my opto-isolator...linked to a 2N3055....so now im ready to go...with complete control over the frequency and duty-cycle.

i have been haveing bad luck to day with units... 

yikes ...

but

insted of all the electronics crap  this is what i have been working on ...  ;D ;D ;D

seams to work well so far ...

this is to control my relay 2 smack the mot then the neo   

i am useing a NEO ZAP SPARK GAP  ON THE RELAY  COIL TO SWITCH AS A CONTROLLER ... ILL HAVE TO FIND A BETTER WAY TO DO IT BUT THIS WILL WORK ALSO TO RECHARGE THE SOURCE ...

I NEED TO MOUNT IT TO SOME KIND OF GAP THING I WAS ONLY PUTTING THE MAGNET IN THE ALIGATOR CLIP AND TOUCHING THE COIL ON THE RELAY ... 


it does seam to do the trick

ist

keep goin IST, whatever works.....even if its clunky as hell....as long as it works......even only sporadically.....as long as it works...

IM ACTUALLY REALLY SURPRIZED ...

I MANAGED LAST NIGHT TO BE ABLE TO CHANGE FROM REAL SLOW FREQ TO REALLY HIGH FREQ FROM MY SIMPLE NEO ZAPPER RELAY CONTROLLER

IT IS NOT MOUNTED YET

BUT MY NEOS DONT BURN UP NOW NOR MY SPARK GAPS IM ONLY TRYING TO RELPACE THE CRAP DIGITAL JUNK ...  WITH A MECHANICAL  NEO ZAP TO CONTROL THE HIGHER AMPS

SO FAR SO GOOD

W

hi guys, i am new here i like this thread, good work I.S. regarding your 555 chips and a circuit, i am also following a thread at energetic forum by the name of cop> 17 rosemary...... there Aaron and others are also working on a 555 circuit with high frequency, low pulse cycle with the option of recharging the battery also etc..
note : main stresssss they are giving on is a mosfet which is not avalanche proof for super results .
hope it helps

thanks guys ... 

today in my travels i found a HUGE comunitator  ;D   

i will make it into a mechanical rotary switch it is about 3.5 " across and about 48 contacts

maybe more ...  i need to take it apart yet ...  but i was kinda thinking of splitting it into 4

like speed bumps ...  lol 

ill add the picture when i get it apart ... 

i know it can handle high power it came from a 220vac 10 amp motor 2 hp

and well  we will see ooooo  soooooo soooooon  8)

ist!

i took some pictures of it ...  theres more like 96 or something like that contacts at lest  4" across

ist!

Sounds like an interesting experiment.
About the chips burning out.

Years ago I fired up a neon sign transformer with 2 wires hooked up to produce a Jacobs Ladder effect.
I had a brand new digital meter sitting on a desk 10 feet away, and it was turned off, with the leads connected.
The neon sign transformer puts out 12kV at 60mA.
At the corner of my eye I suddenly noticed a cloud of smoke coming from the meter.
I quickly turned the neon sign transformer off and checked the meter, it was fried.
I had just bought the meter a radio shack and it was still under warranty, so I took it back and got a new one.
But I never tried playing with the neon sign transformer since.
If it can do that to a digital meter which is designed to measure voltages, what could it do to a computer or other equipment?

If you put the circuit into a grounded metal box it may solve the problem of burning out chips.
I may try this experiment too.