Hello every one. I am excited to announce that my second motor, with 26 awg wire, and a slightly modified commutator is working perfectly. No over unity because I am using such a thin gauge wire. but I believe this motor to be very very efficient. And yes I have a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdw3DAVuLbA
I believe I am getting over 2000rpm. I will get an amp meter, and a tachometer soon.
While the video was uploading I ran an off video test. The test ran for only 50min because it killed a battery. Only one battery got hot, and the machine slowed way down. I replaced the bad battery, and even added one more and it started up with out a problem.
I am so excited to have a working motor. Thanks to every one who offered advice.
I hope you liked the video.
Cheers.
I am going to ramble a bit here. Because I don't have an analog amp meter right now, I want to try to calculate some numbers. Please let me know if I have done something incorrectly.
With my current commutator, there is 6 pulses per revolution.
I think I am getting at least 2000rmp's. This is 12,000 pulses per minute.
12,000 / 60sec is then 200Hz.
200Hz then means, each pulse is .005 seconds or 5mSec.
would the current be 1/200th of total non-pulsed current???
if it is then with 150v/57ohms of non-pulsed current is 2.63A.
1/200th of that is 13.16mA.
Would this mean I am using 1.97 watts of power???
I believe I read that 9V batteries have 625mAh (milli-amp-hours)
Does this mean my current set-up could/would run for 47 hours??? That is if I don't kill a battery during that time. ;)
if this is true, this is not bad at all. Again let me know if I have my math right or wrong.
Cheers.
I tried to run another 1 hour run. Before the hour is up, one of the batteries started getting hot, and the motor slowed down. I believe I am doing things right if I am killing batteries. ;D
So now I need a source that can handle the back spike. or figure out how to capture it.
quick update: I made a 3min video, technically from a different angle, and I wanted a video that got quicker to seeing the motor running, and not have to wait 5 minutes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6qLiAeyPng
If you have any questions, please ask.
Hello everyone. sorry that its taking so long since my last post. But I have finally acquired an analog meter to measure the mA. It has been along time since I have had to use an analog meter. But I did measure 80 to 95mA. The voltage while running was 115v. Batteries are very depleted. Motor only runs for 30 seconds, and then begins to slow down due to lack of current. but currently this means my motor is using 9.2 to 10.925 watts. This will be greater with fresh batteries.
I am working on a new commutator. Being made out of a small bicycle wheel rim (no tire on it).
Ok, I will do my best to document the construction of my next commutator including pictures. I missed a couple of opportunities to take some picture at the very beginning, but I am not to far into, just like 3 steps into it. Pictures speak better than words...
I've found placing a suitable capacitor across the leads of the ammeter will provide more accurate results.
My second Newman motor has been completely disassembled, to make room for motor #3. I will continued to post my progress of building motor #3 in this thread, but when I am finished (which may be a while), I will start a new thread.
But motor #2 is now no longer available. ;)
Hello everyone. Here is a small update, so you all know that I am hard at work building my next motor. Below are some pics of me building a really big commutator out of a child's bicycle wheel rim.
Pic #1: my setup for soldering the wires to the copper segments.
Pic #2: my soldering skills ;)
Pic #3: 20 segments ready to go on the commutator
More pics of my commutator being built.
Pic #4: Putting copper segments on wheel. Using a spacer piece for exact placement
Pic #5: Showing spacer piece removed.
Pic #6: Done puttting copper segments on. Worked out exactly as planned with the spacer piece.
I will be adding short-out segments tomorrow, plus other stuff.
Here is what have done so far today Friday March 5th 2009:
Pic #1: I don't know the actual name for the disks, so I will call them the power couplings since that is where power is connected or contacting.
Pic #2: Copper superglued to the power couplings
Pic #3: Showing gap that needs to be soldered
Pic #4: Showing my soldering skills ;) Just a little bit is needed.
Pic #5: Power couplings superglued to the wheel's hub.
And the adventure continues...
Progress update:
See the wonderful pictures. :D
More picture to come later tonight
Ok, more pics for you all. Did not get much more done. Did not get much time to work on it today. Tomorrow I will spend much more time.
Enjoy the Pics, I hope they help someone....I can hope.
Progress update:
3rd picture has some important information in it.
Am I providing enough info?
Quick update. Only one picture of my "frame" for the next winding. Currently planning on one pound of 30 awg wire on each side.
Just a very quick update: I have the second half of the winding frame done.
Wire should be here by this weekend, I hope.
Quick update: The two spools of 30 awg wire arrived today. This will take me a while to wind them. I am working on a winder of sorts, to help speed it up. But this will still take some time. I hope to have this done by the end of March.
Well its dinner/supper time. Had my wife take some pics while I was winding the wire.
Arrrrgh. I have suffered an equipment malfunction. The aluminium frame I was winding the copper wire on came apart. I was using glue from a hot glue gun, but the glue could not hold up with my winding apparatus. Switching to an apoxy. This does mean that I have to un-wind what I have done so far. Oh well. I thought there might be problems with the glue. Time for bed. Good night....
Ok, done un-winding the broken frame. Now using apoxy this time. Should hold a lot better. Ok back to working on it.
I finished winding one half yesterday. Here are some pics.
Here is a few more pics taken today (3-13-2010)
Keep up the good work, things look nice.
Hi detrix42
Following with great interest,as I am sure many others are,nice to see you are going well, inspite of your set backs.Good luck.
peter
Update: Almost done!!!! Going faster than expected. I have even done a preliminary test of applying voltage to the coil directly for a few seconds to see if it will actually turn. Yes it does, although a bit slowly. The rotor is heavy, plus the wheel/commutator, but it still turns. I am certain that it will gain speed as it goes.
Anyways here are some more pictures from today:
Just so you all know, I should have motor #3 done tomorrow. I have plans on making two videos. The first will be a full explanation of my motor and my view on Newman's theory. This will be as long as it takes. The second one will be of the motor running, showing me taking measurements. So keep an eye out for my next videos.
Also, thanks for the kind/encouraging comments. :D
Hey awsome construction work best commutator i seen yet, but i think you really should of used a wooden frame instead of a metal one, newman says that no magnetic materials are aloude in the motor except the magnet stack on the shaft.
I used aluminium because it is not magnetic. I also had to use brass nuts and bolts since the glue was not strong enough. There is no magnetic interference with the aluminium or the brass. Thanks for your input though.
Also please note, that once I have finished building this motor, I will start a third thread for a discussion of it. I should be done this morning, I only need two more things from the hardware store. So a new thread will be started soon.
Quote from: detrix42 on March 15, 2010, 09:01:52 AM
I used aluminium because it is not magnetic. I also had to use brass nuts and bolts since the glue was not strong enough. There is no magnetic interference with the aluminium or the brass. Thanks for your input though.
Also please note, that once I have finished building this motor, I will start a third thread for a discussion of it. I should be done this morning, I only need two more things from the hardware store. So a new thread will be started soon.
If you run into commutator weight problems, I would recommend using stained glass foiling tape. It is copper ribbon with an adhesive backing ( copper tape ) ..and may make things a bit easier for setting up brush contacts.
http://www.diamondtechcrafts.com/default.aspx?page=itemView&itemsysid=186031 (http://www.diamondtechcrafts.com/default.aspx?page=itemView&itemsysid=186031)
Quote from: jadaro2600 on March 15, 2010, 06:21:46 PM
If you run into commutator weight problems, I would recommend using stained glass foiling tape. It is copper ribbon with an adhesive backing ( copper tape ) ..and may make things a bit easier for setting up brush contacts.
Thanks. I do use that copper tape. See my next thread on my third motor. Actually in this thread (reply #24) there are pictures showing the copper tape on the base board. Right now it will turn, but there are other issues keeping it from turning.