I've been experimenting with 3x6mm disc magnets lately,
and have found that connected along their diameters and
fixed to a PC fan, it makes quite an effective spinning
device.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASVbgBCq57s
The motor powering the fan is a 12VDC .18mA running at 5V.
All of the magnets - 12 of them in groups of two are high-
powered Neodymium permanent magnets, and weigh in at probably
3-5x that of the fan by itself.
The ratio of total magnet power between the motor itself and
the ones I have attached is far in excess towards the latter.
I'm thinking of the weight & flux-strength of the magnets in
the motor versus that of the Neodymium spinners. The ratio is
so far in excess I will not even attempt a guess.
What I'm thinking to accomplish with this small project is
somehow winding a bunch of copper wire into a shape or shapes
that will be able to pick up a charge from the spinning
North-South-North-South top surface of the device.
Honestly I do not know what other parts (diodes etc) that I
may be in need of to get it working properly, but the concept
of overunity I'm getting at is to spin a proportionately huge
amount of magnets around pickup coils with a tiny DC motor,
thereby amplifying the output.
The power input is 5V 74mA... and so far, my attempts at
using a single small coil for collection of charge have been
unsuccessful. What I did was hook the ends of a small 6mm
wide coil directly to the leads on my meter.
My working knowledge of electronics is not exceptional by any
means, so for now I must rely on the probablility that I'm
going about some stuff completely wrong.
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!
Almost surprising the magnets stay in place. I think you want to turn your coil 90° from the way you have it - i.e. the bottom of the coil (or top) should face the magnets instead of the side of the coil.
All you can do is put bunches of coils around the motor's periphery.
You can use diodes preferably either germanium or Schotky
that have lower .2vdc pedestal voltages to put all the coils
in parallel boosting their current. Or you can run each diode
to a capacitor and stack up those boosting it's voltage or a little
of both.
Here's the rub, as you add coils and as you begin to put a load
resistor on them to extract electricity - you make the rotor
to harder to turn, ie you add a braking force to the rotor's
turning - As the motor becomes harder to turn that little
circuit inside the motor makes use of more input current or
else the motor slows down. The energy you use will almost
always be exactly balanced with what you get.
This is why generators are so extensively used...they can do
this balancing act with almost 100% efficiency. To see this
happening spread a few of the magnets around outside the
loaded rotor. The rotor should begin to cogging and the motor
using more energy. Exactly the same thing will happen with a
electrically loaded coil.
:S:MarkSCoffman
Ah... interesting.
Now what if one was to collect the back-EMF from
the motor, as well as the same from each coil,
and then rout all of it into the same location
as where the foward-current of the coils lead to?
Alternately, is there a way to collect back-EMF
from the motor and simply feed it back into the load,
thereby helping to speed up the fan?
The inside magnets aren't doing anything because they are too far from the coil.
1. All you need to do is to remove all of the magnets except the outermost 2 at both ends so it is balanced.
2. AIM the CENTER of your coil (NOT the side of the coil) ABOVE the 2 rotating magnets. The closer you hold the END of the coil to the magnets, the more voltage it will output.
3. The output will be AC which is fine. You should get enough output to light up a small flashlight bulb, or at least several LEDs in parallel.
.
This is where I'm thinking of going with it...
Having three coils to start out with so each
one collects a different polarity with the
N-S-N-S of the tops of the magnets.
mscoffman - I tested what you described, holding
some magnets close to the spinners to slow them
down and draw additional energy.
What I found was that the voltage stayed precicely
the same, while the current draw bumped up maybe
around 5mA - I was really slowing it down too.
The next step for me is to find some diodes to
work with, and a potentiometer to find the just
the right speed where the magnets are spinning
as fast a possible without flying away.
Move some of the magnets on the inside to additional outside positions
maybe like a square, hexagon, octagon. Actually you should alter the N/S
poles of each of these on the outside so the coil doesn't see one big
'N' or 'S' all the time. These additional "poles" will make your AC go
up in frequency per motor revolution.
Leds have a pedestal voltage before they turn on, so they
are not quite as good as pure loads as resistors are.
Ok, the motor control circuit can either increase current which
may be difficult for it if the voltage input is 5Vdc low. (your PS
supply should be regulated at 5Vdc). Or it has to let the motor slow
down. The generator function is proportional to RPM,s so it would
automatically cut the voltage, power and braking back as the rpm
drops. Allowing it to seek a steady state.
:S:MarkSCoffman
Hmm - in order to add additional magnets I would
have to retool it a bit to accomodate a large flat
disc to glue them on to. If I can get some preliminary
results tomorrow when I hopefully find some diodes,
then I'll have a go at it.
What I ought to figure out at this point is how to
change the resulting current output of the coils from
AC into DC.
I'm fairly certain there's a quick way to go about it,
but a bit of searching has left me without an answer.
Edit: Alright, I get it now - the diode IS what turns the
AC into DC by blocking half the waveform...
...
Quote from: geotron on March 21, 2010, 10:34:29 PM
Alright, I get it now - the diode IS what turns the
AC into DC by blocking half the waveform...
Actually, if you take the fan apart, you've probubly got a circuit board on there which converts the DC to AC or pulses the coils on the fan board so that they alternate polarity.
The fan assembly usually consists of a cheap plastic shell, inside of which there is a soft ceramic magnet ( ring shaped ) which has two north and two south poles n-s-n-s around the rim, or north on one side and south on the other if there are three coils on the fan board.
It's not really practical to have brushes on these types of fan because they're intended to be run for long periods of time, so they use a controller board to create induction ....
The fan blade housing had a flexible circle-shape
magnet that I removed with its metal ring form.
It was surrounding the outside of the inner assembly,
identical to the one I am now using to spin the discs -
...
I've obtained some diodes and assembled a small
test coil with one of them, and so far no results.
The diode is a Radioshack IN4005 with the following
specifications -
Foward Voltage Drop: 1.6V
Max. Surge Current: 30A
Foward Current: 1A
Reverse Current: 10uA
I've checked for resistance with my meter on the
assembled coil-diode circuit and its ok, so my guess
is the diode is of the wrong type.
My meter was set to the 10V range, and recorded no
movement at all no matter how close I held the coil.
That little rectangular black component is the motor control circuit
It's relatively complex inside and probably contains a Hall effect
magnetic sensor that can "see" the rotor magnetically so that
it can sense how fast to send pulses to the coils. A fan needs
to turn one specific direction and the coils are set up in an
asymmetric fashion to create that directional spin. The three
leaded Q1 is a final transistor that the control-circuit pulses
so that it itself does not overheat.
:S:MarkCoffman
Well, I'm certain now that I've obtained the wrong
class of diodes - looks like I'll have to order them. :)
As described in rukiddingme's thread on Schottky diodes,
it looks as if I'll have to go with either the rk44 or
bat46... or something equivalent.
Does anyone have a guess on what kind of voltage I can
expect to gather from the red coil in the pic? With the
1.6V diode on there, nothing registers so I'm thinking
that if anything is being collected at all it would be
less than this value.
With my meter set on 50VAC connected to a coil without
a diode there is nothing registering either, so in this
case it may be my meter isn't sensitive enough on the 50V?
Quote from: geotron on March 22, 2010, 07:48:58 PM
I've obtained some diodes and assembled a small
test coil with one of them, and so far no results.
The diode is a Radioshack IN4005 with the following
specifications -
Foward Voltage Drop: 1.6V
Max. Surge Current: 30A
Foward Current: 1A
Reverse Current: 10uA
I've checked for resistance with my meter on the
assembled coil-diode circuit and its ok, so my guess
is the diode is of the wrong type.
My meter was set to the 10V range, and recorded no
movement at all no matter how close I held the coil.
You need to use a Schottky Diode or the radioshack switching diodes - 1n4148 ( 0.563V drop ) the small glass diodes. Your current diode has an exceedingly high voltage drop.
They're cheap and have an acceptable voltage drop. 4-5 dollars for a pack of 100 if you're radioshack is well stocked.
That's as I thought - sadly my Radioshack didn't
have any 1n4148 diodes though, so I've been looking around
online and found a Toshiba 1SS389 at Mouser.
Mouser.com - Toshiba 1SS389 diode (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Toshiba/1SS389TL3FT/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtvcUztdGSumBMI6ZPBmDfq9Lu%252bHbVbBfo%3d)
It's got a sister diode that is a bit more expensive,
but has a 30V peak-reverse-voltage versus the 10V of the
previous one. I'm not certain which to get, or if both would
work equally well.... ?
Mouser.com - Toshiba 1SS416CT diode (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Toshiba/1SS416CTTPL3/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtvcUztdGSumBMI6ZPBmDfqHx3WJoRBUMA%3d)
Both have a .23V foward voltage, and are in Solder Pad form.
this diode has great properties, but it's ability to withstand reverse voltages is low, since you have powerful magnets, the reverse voltage should be pretty high with forward drop pretty low you may be looking at an expensive diode.
I would settle for a 1 volt drop and a 300 to 400 volt rating... you may tr the 1n4001 or 4003 and see what the voltage drop is, you could measure the voltage drop yourself ..just connect it in series with a 2k resistor and measure the voltage across the diode terminals. Use a AA source.
some ammeters have a diode tester tells what the voltage drop is.
hmmmm.....
This is a good idea ;D
How about a big magnet on top of those magnets then a lot of coils then big magnet again. its like sandwiching the coil with the magnets, of course magnetic field should be moving when fan is turning, well i think it can make excess energy . ;D
actually we can also put a setup from the top and place other at the bottom of the fan, and that is two birds in one bullet. ;D
Double sandwich in one fan. ;D
i think we can change the fan blade by a plain materials then glue the magnets there, well this is just a wild idea. ;D
;D
I went ahead and ordered 50 Toshiba 1SS369 diodes with
the following specs -
Reverse Voltage: 40V (max reverse 45V)
Average Forward Current: 100mA (max peak current: 300mA)
Forward Voltage: 0.28V at 1mA (typ), 0.36V at 10mA and 0.54V at 100mA
Total Capacitance: 18pF (typ.)
Operating Temperature: -40C to +100C.
Toshiba 1-1F1A (similar to SC-70 or SOT-323) Package
jadaro2600 - I hadn't read your post about the reverse
voltage before I bought these, so - I guess if they aren't
good enough I can eventually use them for something huh?
If 40-45V isn't enough, could I somehow wire multiple diodes
together to increase this value?
I went to Radioshack previously and got two varieties of
diode; one labeled IN4005(1.5V) and the other without a label
but having a 1.1V drop. I tried the 4005's and they didn't
do anything, but the other ones I haven't tested yet... perhaps
this is something I ought to experiment with.
Just for absolute clarity, this is what I am using
for my testing procedure -
Coil -> (+) goes through diode -> lead connects to meter
-> (-) connects to meter
---------------------------------------------
mscoffman - I've found a much larger 120mm fan, and by
your suggestion have begun positioning magnets onto it
in an alternating pattern. A bottle cap is glued onto
the center position, holding a used DVD as the surface
onto which the magnets sit.
Setting up my 50mm fan with dual coils for the N-S top
bottom arrangement... I'm thinking I should wire each
one with a diode VS wiring them together and using a
single diode.
interesting. It seems you ma be generating a low enough vollage to use the diode you purchased without much fuss.
There are also other properties of diodes, max reverse voltage is different from continuous reverse voltage and peak reverse voltage ..etc. You may be able to exceed this if the current on that voltage is low .. in other words, so long as your diode is running cool, everything should be fine ..you may be able to throw a thousand volts at it and not damage it or impede its performance ( correct load across the bridge, etc ).
Some of the cheaper components perform admirably better than their stated properties.. after all, they do go into millions of different devices.
I'm not quite clear if you have a bridge off your coil or not ... if you're having trouble, just reverse the polarity of the diode or flip the coil around and see what happens at the meter.
Well, I've recieved the Toshiba diodes, and honestly I can't
imagine them being any smaller. They're in a roll, and measure
approximately 2mm from end to end, including the metal leads.
I've done a lot of welding in the past, and have experience
soldering together LEDs, but these diodes are tiny... very
small, so I may have to find a different source.
I'll sharpen my soldering iron, and hope that the roll of
solder I've got isn't too big in diameter.
Anyone have any solding tips on these? They look like
they were meant to be used by a machine designed for the
sole purpose of connecting together itty-bitty parts.
It took a couple of tries, but I finally got resistance
on one of them. Its the one superglued to the cardboard
on the bottom.
I first glued it in place, then wrapped the wires and
gave it a second coat.
I'll slice it out and solder it into place a little later,
then recheck the continuity.
Quote from: geotron on March 27, 2010, 11:19:56 PM
Well, I've recieved the Toshiba diodes, and honestly I can't
imagine them being any smaller. They're in a roll, and measure
approximately 2mm from end to end, including the metal leads.
I've done a lot of welding in the past, and have experience
soldering together LEDs, but these diodes are tiny... very
small, so I may have to find a different source.
I'll sharpen my soldering iron, and hope that the roll of
solder I've got isn't too big in diameter.
Anyone have any solding tips on these? They look like
they were meant to be used by a machine designed for the
sole purpose of connecting together itty-bitty parts.
Well, you could do two things, get a piece of copper foil, and place the diode on it, heat it up from below and then touch the solder to the lead end above the heated area on the copper, then use an exacto knife to separate the foil between into two sections.
Or you could use the same technique with wire, and coil a length of it several time around the diode to hold it in the air stead, then solder both sides and then cut the cross linking to create the leads.
I think the foil idea may work better, if you have a steady way to hold either of them, heating the wire to be attached to a glow and bringing it together with the solder quickly may be your best option for this tiny size.
One hot wire, the solder and the lead all come together at once, basically.
If you have a blow torch, you could get a hook chape on one end, wrap a tiny amount of solder on it, and then heat this up to a glow, ..the would create a dropplet of solder on the hook end, just bring that into contact with the short lead.
time will be of the essence though.
Ok - the circuit is in place, and there is a definite
continuity...
...still not collecting a charge though. I've tried
multiple positions holding it as close as possible to
the spinning magnets, and not even a whisper of a
change on my meter.
I've got the alternating N-S pole magnets on a spinning
DVD, which I tried as well without success.
Could the problem lie in my coil? I gave it quite a few
turns, and its a fairly thin guage. It seems like even
a small coil would be generating at least something.
I must be going about some aspect of this the wrong way.
Either that, or I fried the diode in the process of soldering it... ?
Nearby I have a saved copper foil wrapper from a roll
of pH strip - at least it appears to be copper.
New diodes on the way soon - with such a miniscule surface,
I've already lost at least 3 in the carpet while attempting
to place them.
With my strip of copper I will construct another in time.
Try putting your magnets so that they rotate face on to the coil.
You can wind your coils on a cut off nail (not the greatest core
material). R60 welding rods is what bedini uses. This will give the
coil more inductance to capture magnetic field lines better.
:Mark
Well, it doesn't look good for these tiny diodes.
I'm going to have to find bigger ones for sure.
The 1N60 germanium diodes I've found have a foward
voltage rating of between .28 and .48V, so obtaining
these will probably be my next target.
My new coils will hence be wound on salvaged led
leads - I'm not sure how many winds would be suitable
for this scale... the magnets are 6mm wide, so keeping
their diameter under this value would probably help.
This one is going in a slot - no mods. Possibly
the most difficult item to join I have ever made
possible.. I can't decide.
Quote from: geotron on March 31, 2010, 12:51:01 AM
Well, it doesn't look good for these tiny diodes.
I'm going to have to find bigger ones for sure.
The 1N60 germanium diodes I've found have a [forward]
voltage rating of between .28 and .48V, so obtaining
these will probably be my next target.
My new coils will hence be wound on salvaged led
leads - I'm not sure how many winds would be suitable
for this scale... the magnets are 6mm wide, so keeping
their diameter under this value would probably help.
---
@geotron;
You could use a very high resistance resistor like 1megohm
and solder the diode across it's body. The 1 megohm will be
swamped out by the diodes resistance.
Try seeing if a magnet will attract a led lead...If it is not
magnetic, then most likely it will not increase inductance
of the coil...It should not hurt it either. If not magnetic
don't let the part that is sticking out impact your ability
to get the coil face close to the magnet face. The closer
the better.
---
Another interesting component might be to purchase an
audio transformer from RadioShack for @$2.99 USD. The one
with 8ohm primary and 1Kohm secondary Center-Tapped. In the
worst case you can use the 8ohm primary connected (use DVM
resist.) to your coil and put the led leads across the center tap
to either other transformer secondary leads.
This creates about a 1:50 AC voltage step-up. Equivalent to winding
50 times as many turns on your coil. I almost guarantee this will show
some light from the led. The diode (germanium is good) is not needed
right now with the led since the led is already a diode, one with a
2.25Vdc threshold or so. That's the problem, if your coil doesn't get
to 2.25V the led requires, it will not light at all. The transformer changes
the voltage equation but it preserves P=E*I power and isn't magic OE.
Good luck in your experiments!
:S:MarkSCoffman
Quote
Another interesting component might be to purchase an
audio transformer from RadioShack for @$2.99 USD. The one
with 8ohm primary and 1Kohm secondary Center-Tapped. In the
worst case you can use the 8ohm primary connected (use DVM
resist.) to your coil and put the led leads across the center tap
to either other transformer secondary leads.
...very insightful (!) If my local radioshack has them,
I will get one and hook it to my finished coil. I don't
understand what you mean by DVM resist -
------------
The legs of my LEDs are in fact magnetic, so no problem there.
Model EI-19 is the one I've got my sights on.
The datasheet - http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/XC-600128.pdf
At the radioshack item page*, all that it gives is the
model number, so looking at the Mouser.com datasheet I see
that on the chart at the bottom of the page it lists six
different impedances.
Radioshack - Audio Transformer EI-19 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254)
Are these all contained within the same EI-19 transformer by
use of different lead wires, or is each a separate item to
be purchased individually?
I'm not certain that I would be able to figure out how to
wire it up even with the part in hand - the six wires seem
like too many, and the Red-Yellow-Red-Blue-Yellow-Blue for
the one shown as 1Kohm-8ohm doesn't help me much.
I'll be reading up a bit more on transformers soon... as well
as electronics in general - interesting stuff!
Quote from: geotron on March 31, 2010, 08:32:40 PM
...very insightful (!) If my local radioshack has them,
I will get one and hook it to my finished coil. I don't
understand what you mean by DVM resist -
------------
The legs of my LEDs are in fact magnetic, so no problem there.
Model EI-19 is the one I've got my sights on.
The datasheet - http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/XC-600128.pdf
At the radioshack item page*, all that it gives is the
model number, so looking at the Mouser.com datasheet I see
that on the chart at the bottom of the page it lists six
different impedances.
Radioshack - Audio Transformer EI-19 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254)
Are these all contained within the same EI-19 transformer by
use of different lead wires, or is each a separate item to
be purchased individually?
I'm not certain that I would be able to figure out how to
wire it up even with the part in hand - the six wires seem
like too many, and the Red-Yellow-Red-Blue-Yellow-Blue for
the one shown as 1Kohm-8ohm doesn't help me much.
I'll be reading up a bit more on transformers soon... as well
as electronics in general - interesting stuff!
@geotron
The Mouser and RadioShack transformers may be built on the same
core but they are *not* the same transformer.
The Radio Shack does not have a CenterTapped Low Ohms 8ohms
winding. Only 8ohms total. Peoples comments say it is 1Kohms:8ohms
there is not an official specification listed. I believe what those people's
comment say. Can't tell what eact voltage step-up ratio is.
The most optimum overall Mouser is: 42KM001-RC Red-Yellow-Red,
Blue-Yellow-Blue. Both coils have CenterTaps unlike the RS unit.
The windings coming out on the same side of the transformer
are paired. I like the Mouser better but RadioShack
may be instantly available. The turns ratio is 9:1 not 50:1
but is still ok. The Mouser gives lots of different combinations
of leads so you can see which one works best.
DVM resistance mode. -> To measure the DC resistance of the
windings. The windings are not using the same gauge wire, Therefore
the resistance ratio and turns ratio are not 1:1.
Turns ratio and voltage step-up-down ratio is always 1:1
Just connect the coil in a circuit across the low ohms side and
connect the led across the high ohms side. You can use a transformer
either direction> The DVM will show you which leads are connected
to each other.
:S:MarkSCoffman
Xicon apparently makes one that is
similar - I'm uncertain whether or not
it is better than the 42km001-rc, but
the price is good, and I've been in
the planning stages of building a Tesla
Switch anyway, so I may just order a
small pile of them for good measure.
42TL013-RC at Mouser (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=42TL013-RCvirtualkey21980000virtualkey42TL013-RC)
If I can set up enough of the wound coils
around the magnet-cog fan, in addition to
experimenting with overunity I could also
use it for an interesting conditioned power
supply with the attached potentiometer for
perhaps a miniature Gray's Tube... ?
One way or another there's certainly got to
be a way to get this thing running on its
own... I've seen plenty of evidence that
overunity exists in videos here and there,
especially by Bedini, so this is something
that I'll rightly be sticking with.
Another technology that may be possible to
incorporate is from Searl. It bears somewhat
close resemblance to the spinning form of
a Searl Effect Generator, although lacking
the various layered materials.
If there was some way to copper-coat the
magnets and create layers on them in some fashion
similar to what Searl has done... lots of guessing
here, but fanciful thought can be the best kind.
I'm clearly out of my element theorizing on this,
but no harm in sharing I suppose.
-( My Newest Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfpTdFAh-iM) )- showing the various
effects of reducing the voltage with a RadioShack
potentiometer. The first one I purchased was either
a dud, or my use of it was incorrect and it broke,
or it hadn't been 100% in some way.
The new one is a 15 turn Cermet 271-342 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062307)
At first the change in speed is incremental, as I'm
using an almost normal size screwdriver to turn the
knob without having it slip out.
Towards the finish, I pause and spin the larger one
to help it along - it had come to a stop during the
introductory lowering of voltage.
The 1N60 diodes have finally arrived, so I'll be wiring
them onto my coils to collect front and back EMF. I've got
a 470uF 35V capacitor from Radio Shack, so this will
eventually become part of it as well... hopefully with
many siblings.
While on the subject of capacitors, I'm horrendously
confused by their designation as it relates to how many
amps they hold. 35V makes sense, but how the 470uF rating
translates into Amps X Volts = Watts, I've got no idea.
@geotron,
Joule = 1/2 * C * (V * V) where C are in Farads and V is volt.
Watt (hour) = Joule / 3600.
Groundloop.
In an interesting turn of events, I've found a substantial
use for this device as a commutator. In the video linked to
below, its quite dark but what I've done is attached a small
disc magnet to an aligator clip and temporarily secured them
close to the spinning magnets of the PC fan so as to vibrate
the alligator clip back and forth. The LED board is positioned
with its positive terminal to hit this clip as it goes about.
The Tesla Switch is my other main project right now, so I may
forgoe building the solid state timer device in favor of
something along these lines. My work will eventually continue
on the original goal of wiring small electromagnet coils to pick
up charge from the spinning magnets, but for now I think my
focus would be better used on constructing the Tesla Switch.
Magnet Commutator Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEuwG6zycVY)
-----
This will be my first attempt at soldering parts together
on a circular storage device... I'm thinking about a pegboard
instead, perhaps a thin layer of plywood.
With my coil wound and a couple of soldered test leads, I have
caught some kind of radiant event. Video is being prepared.
The video starts by showing the various parts involved,
but I have attached a quick diagram for legibility -
Radiant Event from Coil (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wB6BLxYIT0k) - YouTube
Firstly, I've got almost no clue as to what is actually
occurring - my best guess is that its a... return charge
flowing against the +3.3V input and sparking through the
junction. I feel a bit weird after having been near it,
kind of like being through a shockwave. The three LEDs are
just regular diodes connected together in parallel and glued
down with clear silicone.
If anyone is just watching the video as I post this, the quality
is said to improve with time as YouTube does stuff to it.
It turns out this 'charge' or whatever that was creating the
spark melted my 3.3V cable and disabled the entire power supply.
I have now disconnected it and installed a different one, this
time with 1N60 diodes... and the display has ended. ???
Where it is now sparking I have no idea... unless its being
built up as electricity in the ground around here and attracting
the danger of lightning. ?
The seemingly burnt out supply seems to have started working again.
Here I've recorded the event with the bank of diodes connected,
and a block of wood to help with the exposure.
Radiant Event from Coil (part-2) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RG_wdKrCl5U)
This is my big point of interest... without the
coil in place, the radiant energy that forms between
the contacts is not present, as well as if a 1N60
diode is used where the 3V supply begins. Where it
ends up in the case of using diodes has me confused.
This is a coil I pulled from a 15 watt fluorescent tube -
The two leads are mostly intact... one is a bit wobbly, so
I'll likely give it a bit of solder.
Ultimately what I'm going to see is if a large enough spark
can be generated to be worth collecting on peripheral copper
mesh or thin film.
The video demonstrates what is produced by 3.3V and my small
hand-wound coil built on the leg of an LED.
I'll be reworking the design so as to have one side of the
contact pointing right at the other like in a Gray's Tube, and
begin by using 12V.
It appears that a similar but lesser effect is produced with the
larger coil as shown, so I'll likely resume with my original goal
of surrounding it with pickup coils, or instead build another one
in its place for later testing on that theory and use this one as
a temporary oscillator.
The precise reason evades me as to how this effect was being produced
though with the small radiant gap event, so it will also be added to the
list of things for experimentation.