I have been getting ready to build A Bedini motor
I thought I had a few schematics of the circuits but could not find them
It turns out most of the circuits I have seen are on U tube.
Is this a workable basic Bedini circuit?
I modified a basic JT drawing to make this schematic
Are the start dots on the coil the same in a Bedini as in a JT?
gary
@resonanceman,
Something like this will run your motor.
Groundloop.
Quote from: Groundloop on April 30, 2010, 06:31:30 PM
@resonanceman,
Something like this will run your motor.
Groundloop.
Thanks for the schamatic
It looks very well done and complete.
I see I was pretty close.
You have a pot and a resistor where I just had a resistor.
You drawing also has a neon....... I was going for as simple as possible so I left that out.
I am amazed at how close it is to a JT
I have no experience with Bedinis but I imagine alot of my experience with JTs will help.
gary
Edit
I missed the grain of wheat bulb
That is something I have not seen before.
I am guessing it is acting like a resistor .
It hit me a little earlier that the parts on a board are almost the same for a Bedini as for a JT
For the most part the only differences are how things are connected
That makes it a little easier.
I have several JT boards already made up.
gary
@resonanceman,
The neon bulb is there to protect the transistor
against over voltage. If you disconnect the charge
battery then there is a high risk of blowing the
transistor.
The small bulb is like a RPM regulator on the motor.
The resistance in the bulb will vary with the
transistor base current. When the rpm increase
then the base current will be higher and the bulb
will "burn" more energy and the end result is that
the base current goes down again, thus keeping
the RPM stable.
Your JT experience will help. If you motor will not run
then just reverse one of the coils. Don't use Neos
on the rotor, use ferrite magnets. All north out. Also
get the coil as close to the magnets as possible.
A good rotor is the front wheel of a bicycle. Remove
the rubber tire and glue or use strong tape to hold
the magnets onto the wheel.
Good luck with your motor.
G.
good luck !
ist
Quote from: Groundloop on April 30, 2010, 07:16:23 PM
@resonanceman,
The neon bulb is there to protect the transistor
against over voltage. If you disconnect the charge
battery then there is a high risk of blowing the
transistor.
The small bulb is like a RPM regulator on the motor.
The resistance in the bulb will vary with the
transistor base current. When the rpm increase
then the base current will be higher and the bulb
will "burn" more energy and the end result is that
the base current goes down again, thus keeping
the RPM stable.
Your JT experience will help. If you motor will not run
then just reverse one of the coils. Don't use Neos
on the rotor, use ferrite magnets. All north out. Also
get the coil as close to the magnets as possible.
A good rotor is the front wheel of a bicycle. Remove
the rubber tire and glue or use strong tape to hold
the magnets onto the wheel.
Good luck with your motor.
G.
Groundloop
Thanks for the advice .......I will follow it.............well for a while at least.
Well actually probably until I get a rotor spinning.
:)
I am here to experment .........I have LOTS of ideas......some of them are things I wanted to do with a JT but didn't have the power.
Just curious do you know why NEOs should not be used?
I am thinking that they are to powerful and make it hard to not over rev the rotor.
If that is the case I want to use NEOs as soon as possible.
I was planning on making a rotor with N and S up.......( EDIT secondary rotor this is not the primary bedini rotor ) and putting a few coils around it.,....... this should make a fairly normal alternator....... It should help limit speed similar to the way you described the grain of wheat bulb limiting it.
One thing I want to avoid is cutting the input to limit speed.
I want to limit speed by extracting power.
I have added an attachment ... i don't remember where I found it but it looks interesting.........except the reed switch part........reed switches suck when it comes to reliability......
Page 2 has a scope shot of a signal......I want to make pulses like that with no reed switch.
I also wonder why no one is using both poles of the magnets........other than the over rev problem.......
I read that black iron oxide is as close as we can get to ferrite .......I have some on the way.......my epoxy resin got here 2 days ago.
I think it will make a better core than nails........it may take some experimenting to get the right density.
I plan on making a C core and trying to tap both poles.......with luck I should come close to doubling the power out.
I also plan on trying to make a large toroid for JTs.......but ......it is iron powder.........so I will be lucky to make one as good as I could buy.........but I can make them bigger........that may have some value.
gary
have fun ..
waste of time
ist !
Quote from: innovation_station on April 30, 2010, 08:28:51 PM
gary do you want to build a motor?
if you do i will work with you public i have a fully duplicatable design that is self running ..
and if you want to build it i will build it with you public ..
useing a basic bedini controller but my motor is NO BEDINI LOL
its wayyyyyyyy better ...
regards ..
just push the thing ... : )
find some old vcrs ...
you can build it for cents ..
ist
the axel in this design is stationary only the wheel spins has 4 vcr bearings in it .. verry high rpm like 30 000 plus
with this design you can even build the rotor of wood ..
and groundloop
HAVE YOU EVER BUILT A MOTOR WITH NEOS ..? IF THE ANSWER IS NO WHO ARE YOU TO SAY DONT USE THEM ?
btw gl a bicycle wheel is USELESS! I RECCOMEND A SMALL WHEEL ... speed ! you want high volt high freq from your aux coils then rectify it .. to a cap
i say go CORELESS IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH WIRE ...
PS forget the reed switch they just blow up .. or wear out in time .. : )
never mind the low voltage welding incidents you will have and suddenly weld the reed contacts ....
if done right you can do it with an aa ... a welding incident that is ....
and if you mount the rotor vertical .. gravity is on your side ....
hummmmmmm
IST
I have seen a bedini made with a VCR head on U tube........it was very fast.
I have a pretty good idea of what I want to end up with.
I am shooting for a fairly small multi rotor design
I am thinking of using a plastic tube for an outer housing........PVC water pipe ........or acrylic tube if you have the money and want to show it off.
I am thinking if the rotors are well made and on a keyed shaft....... I only need one trigger rotor.......... I can add as many power rotors as I need.........of course I will need a alternator rotor or 2 ( to keep the speed in check ) ........ I am thinking there will probably be a set ratio of power rotors to alternator rotors........
The fan motor mods showed me that you can use separate coils .
going coreless is an interesting idea........ it seems with a Newman motor the idea is to mostly make big coils..... what about one magnet on a rotor........and one coil on each side of the rotor?
The magnet would have to have N on one rotor face and S on the other.......but I was planning on doing that anyway.......for many reasons.
If the coils were about 3/4 of the size of the rotor .........but one side of each placed near the Axel it might just work like a Newman...... the coils could be pretty thick
The coils could also be closer to the rotor than with a normal Newman.
I am thinking that a coil that goes around the shaft.......then just past the outer edge of he rotor disk would be ideal.... squeezing the coil into a line ....... then putting a line of magnets from the center of the rotor disk out to the edge.......
I agree on the higher speed thing............but I don't have any VCRs laying around.........and I don't plan on anything like 30000 RPM
In general a small disk turns faster without flying apart....... I was thinking 6 in dia max........4 in may be better.
It depends on what parts I find to make it.
gary
play with it see what ya get ..
i just released my self running unit today ..
: )
it is also a neo zap switcher/ ampliflyer too
lol
has 0 transistors ... just push it ...
lmfao!
ist
look at this super basic toy .. lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wf3MH1Bb3uU
: )
notice the sound of my motor toward the end of the demo ...... listen hard to the sound ...
i just love that video lol
i show how to make your motor accelerate ... while under load .. hummmmm
the load can be the motor its self ... hummm it climbs in rpm while makeing a sparkie sound .. hummm it is feeding back after the transistor ... HUMMMM A GAIN ....
via burnt out 33 ohm .. wich i made glow red hot in the demo b4 that one : )
Quote from: innovation_station on April 30, 2010, 10:53:55 PM
play with it see what ya get ..
i just released my self running unit today ..
: )
it is also a neo zap switcher/ ampliflyer too
lol
has 0 transistors ... just push it ...
lmfao!
ist
look at this super basic toy .. lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wf3MH1Bb3uU
: )
notice the sound of my motor toward the end of the demo ...... listen hard to the sound ...
i just love that video lol
i show how to make your motor accelerate ... while under load .. hummmmm
the load can be the motor its self ... hummm it climbs in rpm while makeing a sparkie sound .. hummm it is feeding back after the transistor ... HUMMMM A GAIN ....
via burnt out 33 ohm .. wich i made glow red hot in the demo b4 that one : )
IST where is this 0 transistor thing?
Your bedini does go very fast .........personally I would not trust any kind of tape for holding a motor together......It might work great for proof of concept but it will eventually come apart........at 30,000 RPM that is not a good thing.
After watching your video I am thinking that my design should be able to hit speeds like that..... if I go for the 4 inch dia rotor
With a bigger rotor it would be harder to reach those speeds and more dangerous.
I saw you had another video with that same motor describing a self running motor. I did not see a video with the completed motor....... did you make it?
If you did any work on it I would like to hear about it.
What you described was alot like my plans.
```````````````````````````````````
No response about why NEOs should not be used for bedinis.
Does this mean that no one here knows ?
gary
Hi Resonanceman I have used neos for a long time now with no problem.
that video you watched GOES WITH A HOLE SERRIES THE IST MINI POWERSTACK
YES I HAVE FULLY EXPLAINED MY DEVICES !
MY DEVICES ......
IT IS ASWELL MY DESIGN AS PER A LONG TIME AGO .. I POSTED A PICTURE OF THE DESIGN ... QUITE SOME TIME AGO ...
NONE THE LESS
my powerstack has quite A FEW TECKS IN IT ...
btw it is best you do your own thing ...
: )
the rest of my unit wont be public for some time ... : )
perhaps you should try things b4 you run your mouth ...
my tape works well
: P
william
I started to play with that motor yesterday .. with coils i have LAYING AROUND ...
it is built with the switcher disc on the back of it now ... it does not wobble ... anyway .. as per yesterdays expairments .. so far useing coils i had .. it will not run on 2vdc ...
hence a freqcon so i pulled in a big old tv for parts ...
: )
Dn't know where to post, so write it here. For 3 years long watching at OU site, I'm asking self and others: Did anyone never try to build the device for household needs? All I could see here are only some models of BS. But it's well known that Bedini use the generator, one produce 10kw for his lab.
Quote from: watcher on May 17, 2010, 03:22:53 PM
Dn't know where to post, so write it here. For 3 years long watching at OU site, I'm asking self and others: Did anyone never try to build the device for household needs? All I could see here are only some models of BS. But it's well known that Bedini use the generator, one produce 10kw for his lab.
Well, the device itself has been built. It is called the "Bedini 10 coiler".
You can Google and You-tube with this string to find out how people
are coming along. I would much rather build a two stage battery pack based
on the biggest deep cycle acid/lead storage batteries one could find and
carefully buffer that output into a modern electric automobile LmNh battery of
26KWh. A line interactive 100KW instantaneous AC inverter and switch would
finish up the system. Only 1.5KW continuous power is require for the average
household current electrical needs. Because the battery pack has a high cost
currently, but is dropping rapidly, I doubt many folk have gone all the way yet.
The acid/lead storage battery needs to be only a couple KWh so it would
be economically replacable since that is where the power most likely is generated.
:S:MarkSCoffman
The Bedini group say not to use neos because of excessive magnetic drag and therefore a need for higher input power at motor start.
The whole point is that the magnets are only a trigger, and the collapsing magnetic field is what creates a route-in for ZPE, apparently.
I'm not sure if a larger magnetic field collapse results in more ZPE-in ...
Gary.
@All
I Received this e-mail from: Yahoo "Bedini Monopole 3 Group".
This is an idiosyncratic device and it's construction is somewhat
embarrassing but it was done 3->4 years ago. Contrast it's
implemention with that of the Anton Electrolyser. :-[
---
> From: "rickfriedrich" rickfriedrich@yahoo.com
> To: Bedini_Monopole3@yahoogroups.com
Ok folks,
I showed these videos a few years ago to some of you on the advanced groups. I
wanted to finish this and let Tony film it but I never got around to completion. So I
figured on this Memorial day I would finally post to Youtube my crude videos of the
first mobile monopole.
This was built around 2005 or 2006. I didn't have any money so this was a piece of
work. I even cut the magnet slots on the free aluminum ring for the rotor with a
miter saw! I found chips for the next year in my shop. I never got it balanced and
so I can't let it idle at full speed. I had some switches on the side to turn it down.
Here is what I wrote a few years ago when I showed it:
"I decided at the last minute to do this and was late getting to the end of the line
so you see me trailing behind at the end of the Parade. But I did pass by everyone
two times. Got some really interesting looks as you can imagine. The kids bent over
backwards to see. The old men just rambled on about their old stories of how they
knew of how to get free energy, etc. A real conversation piece."
"This is the longest test trip I have taken. Resting voltage was the same after as it
was before starting. This mower sat all winter with batteries partially discharged
and was just started up today. Running time today was around 2+ hours. Two 11W
bulbs and two 7W bulbs were all parallel at full brightness (36W total). Also parallel
to the base resistor bulbs are three paralleled 47ohm resistors (very hot) and 96
2w 47 ohm resistors on each base of each transistor. That is a lot of wattage in
resistors going for 2 hours while I drove a mile and also sat for some time as I was
getting ready to go."
"As John just said in the new video, when you load down the monopole the amp
draw is less, and the charging is good. This is what I have found on this and all my
setups. This thing just crawls in top gear like the Newman motor because I am only
half way done. But it can go up big hills while total weight with me is 850 pounds.
Primary coil is not adjusted for best torque, resistors are probably too low as all the
neons are on constant, caps are way too low uf because I have not had time to
put the new 120k uf caps in place of the 4k uf ones. No feedback to the front, just
96 SSGs in parallel going to caps triggered by one diode firing one huge SCR on the
negative side. Lots of losses in the knife switch and front wire clips. This is also
belt driven so there is also lots of losses there. Also rotor is not balanced. Etc.,
etc."
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T607u4pwPk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiwygpqjqAk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RtappklQVg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Hirb0JUxiE
I'm sure this is going to cause a stir!
This is what I did after a year of learning this technology. So what have you done?
I am sorry to say that I never finished it, but maybe I will someday. I looking at
bigger cars these days... if anyone knows of an old Porsche with no engine I may
just...
Happy memories today!
Rick
---
Aforementioned Web link;
http://potentialtec.com/
:S:MarkSCoffman
Hi folks, Hi Rick, thanks for posting those videos. What is powering the wheels of that tractor, a standard electric motor of some kind? Also, somewhat sad that people didn't seem very interested, more interested in commemorating those passed on from engineered wars. Anyway thanks for all of your work.
peace love light
Tyson
Gary:
I used very strong neos on my first Bedini replication and it turns the vcr rotor very, very fast and charges well.
But, my replication of the Jonny Davro no bearing one magnet Bedini replication turns about 16,000rpm and charges better and it is much more simple to build. Check out his videos on Youtube, or mine, for his design.
Neos work the best on a SSG because there is more of a magnetic field to work with. You just need to make a precision adjuster like I did (see my videos) so you can set the space between the coil and the rotor very accurately. No drag then.
PS I can and have run my Bedini from my earth battery so I think it is pretty efficient.
Bill
@All,
Web link to video of an end-to-end Bedini 10 coiler setup;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVQ4ZXHnp8Y
This guy is using an inexpensive 200watt utility interactive inverter as the load
which is about 5x times too low to power his entire house, but it demonstrates
the concept.
:S:MarkSCoffman
Nice vid.
I can't help, though, but to be impressed by high-frequency, pulsed battery-chargers. They seem to have the same effect as the Bedini circuit, including longer operational life after 15-30 cycles.
I'm trying some small-scale home experiments just pulse-charging and it's a nice graph so far.
Gary.
My Bedini can be used solidstate:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtY0bAyZiHc