DISCLAIMER: WARNING! HIGH VOLTAGE. LETHAL DANGER FROM ELECTRIC SHOCK. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REPLICATE. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. INFORMATION PROVIDED ONLY FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. THESE VOLTAGES AND CURRENTS CAN KILL YOU!
In starting this new thread, I must ask that you limit discussion only to the Kapagen device and Kapagen replications, to Kapagen building instructions, to Kapagen theories of operation, and the like.
If you want to discuss other non-Kapagen devices, please go to this thread: Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze
What is a Kapagen? I believe the term was coined by J. L. Naudin http://jnaudin.free.fr/kapagen/replications.htm (http://jnaudin.free.fr/kapagen/replications.htm). A Kapagen is a working over-energy device which is easily replicable. It has already been replicated by several experimenters.
However, the voltages and currents involved are highly lethal. If you don't know what you're doing, stay away. This is no place for novices. If you touch the wrong thing, you can easily die from an electric shock.
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/9862/kapagendevice.gif (http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/9862/kapagendevice.gif)
To see full size image of the schematic, please click on the above link.
We need more detailed information, including videos, on how to build the Kapagen device, for example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xGGhcHmIK4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xGGhcHmIK4) D.I.Y. Kapagen
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=keIBU5F3jwo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=keIBU5F3jwo) Test of the New V3 Kapagen
Cheers
Hi. IMO you should have left "Theories" out of the thread title - there have already been about 175 pages of theories in the other thread! Also, maybe stating that the Kapagen is easy to replicate is overstating things as it also implies that Naudin's performance stats are also easily reproducible - the posted results thus far suggests this is not the case......
My attempt has just left me confused and awaiting another MOT to compare-and-contrast with my current one, sometime next week hopefully. I did however have another play today and having already blown almost 10 light-bulbs (no GDT's, they're on order...) I decided to sacrifice another one today to observe it's demise. Using a 220->110V AC step-down transformer to drive my 800W, 230V MOT and with a 50 Ohm heater element in series with said bulb, sure enough, its all too brief life (about 1sec) was the result of internal arcing - quite pretty to watch!!!
Quote from: Sprocket on June 27, 2010, 06:48:15 PM
Hi. IMO you should have left "Theories" out of the thread title - there have already been about 175 pages of theories in the other thread! Also, maybe stating that the Kapagen is easy to replicate is overstating things as it also implies that Naudin's performance stats are also easily reproducible - the posted results thus far suggests this is not the case......
My attempt has just left me confused and awaiting another MOT to compare-and-contrast with my current one, sometime next week hopefully. I did however have another play today and having already blown almost 10 light-bulbs (no GDT's, they're on order...) I decided to sacrifice another one today to observe it's demise. Using a 220->110V AC step-down transformer to drive my 800W, 230V MOT and with a 50 Ohm heater element in series with said bulb, sure enough, its all too brief life (about 1sec) was the result of internal arcing - quite pretty to watch!!!
Have you seen the TomB-455 Kapagen Replication? He shows you exactly how to build his version. It's awesome.
And JLN has come up with a new spark gap technology on his Kapagen, v3.3. I refer to it as the PlasmaCloud.
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/5933-kapagen-theories-replications-winding-diagrams-circuits-schematics-kapagen-only.html#post101232 (http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/5933-kapagen-theories-replications-winding-diagrams-circuits-schematics-kapagen-only.html#post101232)
Yes, I saw the video - it's quite good. Thing is, on the surface this thing should be simple to replicate, both in materials and results, but as has been pointed out, few have achieved JLN's results! A very interesting tit-bit came to light in the other thread regarding the input voltage - apparently Naudin was getting standard COP < 1 results until he 'tuned' his input voltage be means of a variac. If true, then there will continue to be less-than-stellar results from replicators as few would have variacs - I don't for one! Then again, someone pointed out a cheap dimmer-switch alternative that is rated to 10A which should be enough.
I'm still waiting on GDT's & a replacement MOT...
Quote from: Sprocket on June 28, 2010, 07:43:57 PM
Yes, I saw the video - it's quite good. Thing is, on the surface this thing should be simple to replicate, both in materials and results, but as has been pointed out, few have achieved JLN's results! A very interesting tit-bit came to light in the other thread regarding the input voltage - apparently Naudin was getting standard COP < 1 results until he 'tuned' his input voltage be means of a variac. If true, then there will continue to be less-than-stellar results from replicators as few would have variacs - I don't for one! Then again, someone pointed out a cheap dimmer-switch alternative that is rated to 10A which should be enough.
I'm still waiting on GDT's & a replacement MOT...
Variac's standing for Variable AutoTransformers are actual quite
common in electronic's Labs and not all that expensive, very robust
and especially reasonable priced if one can find a used one. Monster sized
variable transformers are used in diesel electric locomotives as
CVT Continuously Variable Transmissions because they automatically
preserve the Power function while varying the voltage and current
proportionally. Auto transformers are a tapped coil with the low side
connection in common and so do not offer ground isolation. Because
they function with whole utility sinewaves, they don't require any other
devices to be energy efficient. They were extensively in TV shops
because when parts of the CRT TV would blow internal fuses one could
bring the power up slowly and trace down the overload before the fuse
could blow out again.
:S:MarkSCoffman
I've wanted a variac for years but couldn't justify getting one as the cost/probable-usage equation just didn't balance. States-side, new variacs are easily available, used ones plentiful & dirt-cheap and (if memory serves) the kicker, the delivery charges are very reasonable - not so on the other side of the pond! I sporadically trawl Ebay looking for a 220V bargain, and was even out-bid on one occasion, but I'm still variac-less. Actually, a few months ago I was pricing what was available from China. One company sells brand-new 15-20Amp 110V models for about $200. Delivery wasn't bad either I think. (again, if memory serves) Alas, no 220V models. These are far, far rarer and usually demand a premium price...
Instead of buying an expensive Variac, try using an inexpensive Light Dimmer, the kind that control Ceiling FAN MOTORS.
In my locale, they can control about 10 AMPS, and sell for about $7. That is much cheaper than a variac.
.
@Fatbird,
A Variac can't be compared with a light dimmer!
A light dimmer cuts off the sine wave where a variac keeps the sine wave only lowers the voltage with a dimmer the voltage stays the same buts cuts it short!!!
Of course a $7 Dimmer can't be compared to a $90 Variac. I never said it could.
BUT, Don Smith said a Dimmer WORKED FINE for ALL of his O/U Coil Devices. See point #2 below.
My point is that why not try it for only $7. It works for Don. The trouble with negative guys like you is Nit Picking & fault finding. Instead of finding fault, why not GET BUSY building, helping, & contributing?
.
variacs on ebay
saw a few for less than $20
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=variac&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_odkw=variac&_osacat=0&bkBtn=&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313 (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=variac&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_odkw=variac&_osacat=0&bkBtn=&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313)
cheer
Quote from: FatBird on June 30, 2010, 09:34:56 AM
Of course a $7 Dimmer can't be compared to a $90 Variac. I never said it could.
BUT, Don Smith said a Dimmer WORKED FINE for ALL of his O/U Coil Devices. See point #2 below.
My point is that why not try it for only $7. It works for Don. The trouble with negative guys like you is Nit Picking & fault finding. Instead of finding fault, why not GET BUSY building, helping, & contributing?
.
QuoteCan I get a dimmer for my neon sign? You may order your sign with a dimmable transformer for $35 extra (per transformer). These transformers have a knob next to the on-off pull chain which allows you to adjust the brightness of the neon sign. If you already have a sign, you must order a new transformer with the dimmable option ($55 for the transformer + $35 for the dimming option = $90 total cost). You can then replace your current transformer (must be done by a qualified electrician) and then dim your neon sign. Note that our dimming transformer is self adjusting and will replace other transformers rated up to 10,000 volts.
It is important that you do not use any other dimming device (such as a light dimmer you can buy at your hardware store) as it may damage your transformer, cause your neon sign to fail, and possibly create a fire hazard. Your neon sign requires special dimming circuitry (to limit the current but not the voltage - most commercial lamp dimmers simply limit the voltage) which is contained in these dimmable transformers. See our NEON ACCESSORIES page.
See reference: http://www.jantecneon.com/Frequently-Asked-Questions.html#dimmer (http://www.jantecneon.com/Frequently-Asked-Questions.html#dimmer)
Cheers
http://neonsignfactory.com/transformers.aspx (http://neonsignfactory.com/transformers.aspx)
:)
The best (lowest input power) I could get was 707 Watts lighting 18 x 100 watt light bulbs without using a variac. Not bad but far from romerouk and Naudin.
I measured my power usage with a Kill-O-Meter connect to Mains over 30 feet away from my device.
When I first turned my Kapagen on it used over 1100 watts and the lights were approximately 50-60% bright. After playing with this for a week I got the power usage down to 707 Watts and the lights were at least 90% bright. I did this comparison by having one 100 watt light bulb connected to Mains sitting next to one of my light bulbs from my Kapagen. I agree it's not scientific but it was good enough for me to tell the difference.
I did find that dimmer switches and amp restrictors used more power then they were worth so I removed my amp restrictor.
But the most important thing I found was that the ground rods/connections/Earth was the biggest factor in lowering my power usage. I replaced my copper tube with construction grade grounding rods, applied water to the ground around my ground rods. In my area there is 6-12" of top soil and then under that it's all sand. Sand doesn't hold water very well.
Using Carbon rod and Copper for the spark gap lowered my input power usage by 55 watts.
Here are some pictures:
http://u2ecom.com/kapagen/
DonL
New metered measurements!
http://jnaudin.free.fr/kapagen/kapagen33pio.htm
Quote from: FatBird on June 29, 2010, 09:24:23 PM
Instead of buying an expensive Variac, try using an inexpensive Light Dimmer, the kind that control Ceiling FAN MOTORS.
In my locale, they can control about 10 AMPS, and sell for about $7. That is much cheaper than a variac.
i tried that and it no effect on the mot, so i hooked it to the out put right b 4 my load and still nothing. i think these dimmers only drop voltage 30 percent. not enough to effect a kapa gen
.
Don't know if anyone still looks at this thread, but if so, I was wanting to know if an oil filled capacitor for a kapagen application requiring a: 8mfd 2kv 35khz capacitor would do, or would something do better? Needs to supply 8kv with a max load of 20amps.
Quote from: Haan on November 16, 2011, 02:51:14 AM
That page states that Power out/Power In = 96%
It makes one wonder why we're talking about 'over unity'.
The common misunderstanding associated with this Kapagen device is simple. People assume that the device is designed to take the variac input and supply the power via this method, but if you look closely the device is not designed to operate continuously on this source. The whole point of the ground connections, which Naudin does incorrectly, is to provide the potential difference needed to make the device operate minus the variac.
Making a device which takes power from the variac and runs some bulbs is comparable to adding bells and whistles to something which actually does the same thing you claim, this something would be the variac which could easily run the bulbs without the device. Naudin takes and places the ground connection appropriately and then states the ground was dry so he provided some water to help. Wrong.
If you want to know why this works so well apply the principles of the theories behind its operation all of which go far back. By burying a radiator, the accomplishment is to take water a relatively poor electron donor by itself, surround this with a metal enclosure, which readily donates electrons to things, place this in the ground, where a source of electrons is available but difficult to remove. Then place another ground some distance away which only connects to the ground. All of these things have one thing in common they are excellent conductors. The thing they did not have in common which you introduced is the potential difference in the line. You now have a difference in water vs. soil and the ability for the water to remove the electrons needed from the metal which will regain them from the ground as needed and they can travel (potentially) to the other ground connection which would provide you with the first part.
Next, you know you need some existing power source so you use a variac to some outlet. you also know you need something which will further amplify the output once it the variac power source has been turned off, so you use a transformer. You already know this circuit requires the use of the capacitor to function correctly, so in it goes. You also know that you now need something which will pull from this capacitor as needed and will subsequently provide some sort of output so you already know the theory of inductance is well understood, and a mutual inductor combined with a ferromagnetic core would allow a unusually high magnetic field to be developed, and therein the source of output need to light the bulbs, etc...
Finally, you put these together, and turn on the variac, and the bulbs light, what a neat trick, but you have accomplished nothing but make a LRC circuit, assuming the R-value provided by the inductor is present.
The idea behind this device is to start it with external power source and set up transmission of power, and a magnetic field. Then you turn off the variac and the idea then becomes much more clever, it will run without the variac, as supplied by the difference in potential which you created by using variant ground sources. If you put two pieces of wire into the ground by themselves, and plug it all int and run the variac well then you wasted your time even making the website.
I hope this clearifies, why such a thing is beneficial, and why you should stay away from the Naudin site, they did not complete the design as Kapadanze did, nor did they intend on making it work as designed to do. This would draw a great deal of negative attention to their company and they leave it to you do discern the differences in design, by making subtle hints about the ground and the water, etc...