Begginer advice needed

[nathanj99]

Thanks Tinselkoala! Great advice. Great video. What battery's do you recommend? Flooded cell car batteries? Are the small batteries in alarm systems any good, I guess as they are sealed they are gell.

Oh, here's a big one. What about coil shorting. How could that be applied to a vertical bicycle wheel? From the circuits I have seen you need a coil to power the mosets and then a couple of hall sensors, which would need mounting maybe to pick up small magnets on the side of the wheel.

Nath

[TinselKoala]

Thanks Tinselkoala! Great advice. Great video. What battery's do you recommend? Flooded cell car batteries? Are the small batteries in alarm systems any good, I guess as they are sealed they are gell.

Oh, here's a big one. What about coil shorting. How could that be applied to a vertical bicycle wheel? From the circuits I have seen you need a coil to power the mosets and then a couple of hall sensors, which would need mounting maybe to pick up small magnets on the side of the wheel.

Nath

The batteries I'm using are SLA, Sealed Lead Acid, 12 volts 5 A-H capacity. I have six of them, they are originally made for UPS computer power supplies. I imagine that the alarm system batteries are about the same type. I use them for various purposes and frequently discharge them down to 11 volts open circuit. I guess they are three years old, maybe older, and all six are still working quite well.

Most people who work with Bedini charger systems seem to use flooded Lead Acid car battery types, I think.  I don't have the room, and I don't want the evolved hydrogen gas and spillage problems that unsealed batteries cause. Plus those things are dangerous. Your mileage may vary of course. I charge mine with an automatic automotive battery charger, Penske #7061261, which takes them up to about 13.5 v open-circuit and floats them there. It works far better and faster than any Bedini charging system I've tried.

As far as your question about "coil shorting" goes... I'll need more information. Often you will see a diode connected with anode to the negative side of a coil like for example a relay coil, running back to the positive side of the coil with the cathode of the diode. This "shorts" the inductive collapse spike or some would say "recirculates" it in the coil itself. This may be advantageous for some types of pulse motors. I don't  know enough about the particular scheme you are talking about to comment further. If you can show a schematic and give details of the rotor I'll see if I can understand what's going on, or supposed to be going on.

I've got some Hall-effect triggered pulse motor demonstrations in my video collection. Here's a photo of one of them, and a schematic of another one. These use "latching unipolar" HE sensors. Ratiometric sensors could also be used, with an op-amp comparator stage to adjust response.

[nathanj99]

Cool. At the end of the day, I'm not interested in battery charging. I am after an output which could be more useful, such as powering lights etc etc . I will take a look at your videos in a bit.

[nathanj99]

I have the fast diode and capacitor as stated by tinselkoala. Tge neon goes out for a few seconds whilst the capacator charges but once it reaches 90v it does not seem to discharge. I read a steady 90v across it and the neon starts flashing again. Is this right?

Thanks

Nathan

[Low-Q]

Hi

I am using the following circuit for a drive coil on a bendini sg wheel. When the drive coil runs the neon comes on to, unless I adjust the variable resister down close to zero. Can anyone explain this to me please?? The rpm of the wheel is much higher when the variable resister is adjusted with the neon lighting.

Thanks

Nathan

My advice:
This is the "Gravity powered devices" section. Please route your post to the proper section ;-)


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