Rotoverter Initial Idle Results

[oouthere]

@oouthere

some things are not clear to me or you are making it unclear.

To resolve and clarify:

1. only thing that has to be tuned for resonance is Prime Mover with its mechanical load.
If Mechanical Load is changed, you allso must change capacitance to achieve resonance

Actually, you start first by tuning the PM and then you tune the alternator.  The alternator is tuned by using a similar cap bank as the PM.  The alternator cap bank is placed between any two legs of the three phase alternator.  You tune the alternator to the highest sustainable voltage without bogging the PM.  The three phase alternator will not produce any voltage or current without the use of the cap bank.

Sorry, I'm probably not that good at explaining myself.

Rich

what is mechanical load ?

Mechanical load is your alternator with electrical load attached. More electrical load , more mechanical load
for Prime mover.

2. You can allso achieve resonant points of prime mover if you build variabile frequency inverter 12VDC to 120V60hz-400Hz/220V50Hz-400Hz.
first set "mechanical load" at desired level (4-5 times the input should be - Input is 1/3 or 1/4 of max power of prime mover) then find resonace with inverter set at 50Hz/60Hz and vary capacity - when found leave it. after that try with changing freq for further tune.

3. Only after you find resonance with mechanical load and "desired" max Opower/Ipower ratio then you proceed
making circuits for aditional extraction.

Prime mover in rotoverter is Asyinchron Induction three phase motor.

Igor

[oouthere]

Guys, I know we are all learning and probably the slowest of all is me.  I ran across another document on the RV and apparently where I took my readings from the alternator is where you tune your load in series with the cap bank.  The load must a resistive load (i.e. light bulb, heating element, etc).  From my current understanding you take your best amperage/voltage tuning from the alternator and adjust your load to fit.  I had 414VAC @ 5.1 amps so I'll probably need 5 parallel strings of 4-100 watt bulbs ran in series.  Plus perhaps another parallel string of 4-25 watt bulbs to closely match the 2111 watt output.

I'm starting to understand this a little better now, but a lot of the RV documentation is redundant and cumbersome to rumage for the "glimmer of gold."   So my next step will be to make-up the light strings and see how that goes.

Rich

[wattsup]

@oouthere

I call the RV doc a Vulcan Mind-Meld. I think some of the doc was made with more of an intent to impress people by totally mixing them up. Some of the jargon is so repetative. But hey, that's the way it is.

Tuning is esentially done on both sides of RV. Like pulling on an elastic band. If the alternator is tuned to higher amps, this may slow the PM that then has to be tuned, that then makes the alternator turn faster, that then has to be re-tuned, etc, until you get to a point were both sides are at their best performance under the circumstances.

If you have a heating element, hair dryer, or other apperatus of know wattage, just use it on the load. Don't try to get the alternator fully loaded yet. Try to just get out a little more than your are putting it and write down those parameters. You can then quickly repeat the test and take it from there. Hope you have a hand held ampmeter.

I think your set-up has good potential for OU.

[oouthere]

Hi Wattsup,

I read that the RV will act differently on different days...I just verified that.  My previous best alternator output was 2,111 watts but today with the exact same switch settings is 420VAC @ 8.7amps which is 3,654 watts.  Well, I just bought 2,000 watts worth of bulbs to match the previous load but with the increase of output it is not enough to sustain the cap charge.  I was hoping to show an o/u condition today but.....

At any rate, this is the most interesting project I have taken (i.e. Joe Cell, Wankle magnet motor, Gary Effect motor....)

Rich

Editing in more info....the PM also used a little more power, 121VAC @ 5.4amps = 653.4 watts.

So the "inside the alternator" cop is 5.9 and it's only a matter of tuning it to the load at this point.