laptop project

[mattcallaghan]

hey all, i have been looking at alot of youtube video's for example   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppts4R-031U&feature=related  and im looking to make something similar, tho my knoledge is limited, i need all the help i can get, im looking to fun my latop via something like this through the battery pack, im unsure what id need, if any1 can list things id need n where to get premade coils etc, or if any1 has freebie stuff they dont mind sending ill pay postage if needed, also have alot of stuff here iv pulled out of things over the years, capacitors etc, any1 willing to help i can take pictures n send what i do have n see what can help me n what cant...

also if possible id like it to be push started with no input power, i dunno if thats more complicated or what, also if any1 has 4 magnets i can have ill pay postage, i just dnt wanna wait till may to get them from hong kong

again thanks for any help

matt

my email is matt_callaghan@live.com.au if im unresponsive within 24 hours plz email me so im aware some1 took notice of my post, thanks

matt

[WilbyInebriated]

hi matt. putting a pulse motor between a power source and a laptop is probably not a good idea. laptops like a stable supply. running a pulse motor with 'no input power' (for any appreciable amount of time) has yet to be done as far as i am aware.

if you want to do a pulse motor i would suggest a 'simple' load to start with, like an incandescent bulb.

if you want to do a lowpower laptop i would suggest 'rolling your own' with:
a raspberry pi http://raspberrypi.org
a sd card
a keyboard
a display
4 AA, C or D batteries (for the power supply)

optional:
a small solar panel?
a hand cranked charger? (based on what you learn from building a pulse motor)

[mattcallaghan]

hey wilby, thanks for the input, tho i was looking at the charger the input is 100-240V @ 50-60Hz (1.7A), but the output is only 20V @ 2.0A so if i was wondering if a small pulse motor with no or minimal input would be able to sustain the output?

my understanding is if i match the output input isnt a problem, and i was thinking of doing a larger scale 1 with a few extra coil collectors, wondering how many (aprox) would be needed and also where if anywhere id be able to buy coils, also looking for magnets still if anyone has any they are willing to part way with, i also have a huge capacitor out of a microwave, wondering if i should keep or chuck it, reading up on it online people r saying there extreamly dangerous, am wondering if thats just a safety precaution or if there unstable or what

thanks again for ur input wilby and thanks to any aditional help given

matt

[Magluvin]

Hey Matt

Those numbers of 100v-240v @1.7a and 20v @ 2a seem off   can you check again?

Lets say you input 120v x 1.7a = 204W   and 20v x 2a = 40W.  That is a loss of 164W in the power supply alone. The numbers gotta be wrong.

If I were going to approach this, I would try for charging the big cap at the input of the power supply/charger, as you have the range of 100v - 240v to work with, where the 20v side would need to be critically regulated. And your power supply does that job well, so I would not want to rebuild that, when we have that already. ;]

I would swap out the rectifiers that the normal(120-240v) power is rectified with and use schotky fast diodes to capture the spikes easily to charge the cap, as the originals are not fast. You will have to remove the input inductors also as they wont allow the spikes from the motor to get through. An it might be a good idea to leave the spike suppressors in the input circuit, for the power supplies safety. If they go bad, short out, then you know you have reached a limit as to how high you spikes can be.

I would definitely experiment on another supply first, before you mess with the laptops supply. Like start with a cell phone charger, the kind that are 5v out usb. Then you can get one of those small rechargeable usb batteries as a load to experiment with.

If you can get that running, then you are on your way. And a lot cheaper if you screw up. ;]  The input section of these supplies are very similar, just a difference in the parts power handling and capabilities. But voltage levels should be near the same for these parts in each supply.

The input caps of these supplies are usually 300v -400v, so your pulse motor can spike near or below 400v into that cap to try an uphold the caps 100v - 240v and be safe. If, that is, if you can manage to keep the input cap at or near 240, then the current needed will be lowest. If you aim for 100v, you will have to deliver more current, to maintain power (watts) required to run/charge the laptop.

Mags

[mattcallaghan]

i just checked it the numbers are correct, and i am considering a small solour pannel but i believe there expensive as, and atm im near broke, so kinda wanting to do what i can to get maximum results


thanks for the input magluvin i happen to have a power suply for the laptop spair, the cable leading to the laptop broke, i was just too lazy to fix it, im sure that would work fine as a test, have a crappy laptop that uses same suply can test it on

also would a solour pannel like this help?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180850925867+#ht_2466wt_944

it ends in 10 mins so i dunno if u can view it ill paist the specs

   
5w 12v Mono solar panel easy use charger waterproof for battery car,camp,marine

Material: Monocrystalline

Pm: 5W

Voc:  20.23v

Isc: 0.32A

Vmp: 18V

Imp: 0.28A

Max System Voltage: 1000V

Test Contion: AM1.5 1000W/M2  25  0°C

Dimension: 39cm*16cm (15.4inch * 6.3inch)

Gross weight: 0.5kgs (1.1 pounds)

looks like its an ebay shop so if applicable i would buy that and build the pulse motor on the side for fun

thanks guys

matt