HELIS - Hydro Electro Lytic Injector System

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HELIS integrates static HHO cell technology into a compact multifunctional Turbine Nozzle capable of Closed System Crossover.

Surface Area for HHO production is greatly increased and Voltage control of Series Resistors via Neutral Tubes is achieved. Parallel Amperage control is also achieved via each Nozzle Assembly creating an individual cell.

HELISA integrates HELIS into HELP / HELT Architecture.

RM

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COMMENTARY:

Ok, so everyone knows by now I like to combine things to do two things at the same time...

We all know that the Tesla Turbine was initially designed to run on the expansive power of Steam.

So can we run it on Steam + Inert Fluid Pressure to produce the Electricity for HHO generation ?

Instead of a fire and a boiler we do it by cooking the Electrolyte... Electrically... dumping as much power as we can into the HELIS, while providing for the HHO generation needs of the HELP and HELT.

The Steam + Inert Fluid Pressure + HHO expansion is used to rotate the Turbine which powers the PMA.

As an added bonus, due to the CSC, we have an Energetic content in the form of HHO which can be released via combustion.

This HHO is combusted in the Wankel Rotary to continue Fuel generation after the DC Battery Bank and DC Motor comprising the HHO Priming Circuit are disconnected in order to achieve Self Sustaining Operation.

Question: Would the presence of Inert Steam prevent reliable combustion and Energetic exploitation of the HHO in the Wankel Combustion Chamber ?

Observation: The Kenetic Heater has proven that Cavitation of Water can be used as a power source ?

Question: What ratio of Inert Steam + Energetic HHO can be reliably combusted within a Rotary Engine Combustion Chamber ?

Observation: A spark can be suppressed via an Inert Liquids presence.

Observation: A Glow Plug combusts through Heat.

Discuss...

RM

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Here is a method for constructing a HELI that is relatively compact and can be built with off the shelf components:

I have removed the Neutral tubes to simplify construction.

To begin you will need some 1/8" (0.125") Schedule 80 (S80S) 316 Seamless Pipe like found here (at a very good price;)

http://www.zx55.com/shopexd.asp?id=5085

This is normally bought in 6 Metre lengths so you will get a lot for your money!

OD 0.405" (10.29mm)

ID 0.215" (5.46mm)

Wall Thickness 0.094" (2.414mm)

Cut to length and then thread both ends with a Die like found here:

http://www.tapdie.com/

These are in my opinion the best dies you can buy in HQS Steel, straight from the manufacturer, and are what you need for working with 316.

Make a choice on what thread form you want to use. Taper threads (NPT and BSPT) will lock and seal but do not always align perfectly  parallel, Parallel threads such as BSPP will not lock or seal themselves and I often Loctite them with a permanent grade, once aligned!. BSPP are often favoured in my designs when i need a little bit of play for alignment and then I loctite them solid, Taper are sometimes used depending on whether alignment is critical or not and what I am trying to do, ie. if I want a simple seal without sealant.

You will end up with a custom length that looks like this:

http://www.zx55.com/shopexd.asp?id=4461

(Note: 1/8" S80S Barrel Nipples can be hard to find so cutting your own can create self reliance and flexibility in design)

Also, You will probably need a longer Nipple to penetrate the turbine housing and get close to the Disc Stack.

One end of the longer Nipple you have made can be screwed into:

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/1_4x1_8_stainless_steel_Reducing_Bush-24776-p

The reducing bush would be inside the housing, if you choose to follow my method of casting the housing they can be pre positioned at the correct angle before pouring the resin and will provide a permanent mount for the barrel nipple.

Now that should provide you with a DC Neg (-) tube that you can screw in and out if you need too.

The DC Neg (-) connection can also be made to the bush and hard wired into the housing structure with connections to the outside. The Nipple will make an electrical connection via the mating threads, Taper thread would work best for this, Parallel thread will be unreliable as it will be loose and vibrate.

We should now have a nipple with one free end connection, to this we screw on a 1/8" 316 150LB Tee:

http://www.colglo.co.uk/product.php?product=STSTA1896&category=218510401815

The bottom part of the Tee that comes off at a right angle will have a 1/8" Nylon Nipple:

http://www.premiair-pneumatics.co.uk/webcat/Detprod.asp?ProductCode=S010135

To this Nipple is screwed a Quick Release fitting either pneumatic or hydraulic depending on your preference. This will be the fluid inlet.

Now to the important bit... The "Insert"...

The insert MUST be centred exactly in the Nipple, to achieve this I suggest the following:

A Nylon Male Taper Nipple like the one above is screwed into the last remaining opening in the Tee, inline with the Barrel Nipple.

We then take our 3x7 size Round Spike:

http://www.crazy-factory.com/product_info.php?products_id=3231

And screw it onto a 50mm x 1.6mm loose bar bell pin:

http://www.crazy-factory.com/product_info.php?products_id=751

The pin then needs to be "sheathed"

To do this you must use brass telescoping tubing:

http://www.technobotsonline.com/materials/model-engineering-materials/round-tubing.html

2.38mm OD x 1.6mm ID fits the barbell perfectly, then sleeve out using the next largest size until you reach the ID of the Nylon Nipple. You may have to "swage" the last tube to get it to fit. Upon final assembly all the tubes and barbell are loctited into permanent position. You will have the opportunity to check the centering of the Round Spike before final fit by shining a light in the fluid inlet port and looking down the "barrel" to check there is equal distance between the Round Spike and the 316 Barrel Nipple ID. This is exactly the same process as examining the barrel of a gun. You guys in USA should have no problem with this bit

The end of the barbell should be left sticking out enough so that it will fit through a central hole drilled in the end cap when the end cap is screwed onto the nylon nipple:

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/stainless_1_8_inch_BSP_Hexagon_Blanking_Cap-24923-p

It is then secured with a nut which makes your positive connection:

http://www.crazy-factory.com/product_info.php?products_id=1457

1.6mm Nuts can be a pain in the ass to find but luckily the same site that provides the round spike and barbell provide the locking nuts! They have some interesting designs too so you could pimp your HELI lol

And there you go, thats how I was going to build it. It is not perfect, I would prefer the fluid inlet to be inline with the "insert" but this was the best I could do with off the shelf components. And it WILL work!

POINTS TO NOTE:

1) 1/8" S80S 316 Seamless hydraulic tubing will come in with a bore about 5.4mm, The round spike insert is 3mm OD.

(5.4-3) = 2.4mm

2.4mm/2 = 1.2mm

The gap between tube ID and spike OD is going to be about 1.2mm if perfectly centred.

Boundary layer is about 0.5mm (0.020") so the majority of the flow on both the tube ID and spike OD is going to be laminar with around 0.2mm in the centre being turbulent. This is acceptable for prototyping.

2) Schedule 40 pipe or bigger is recommended for threading, DO NOT USE Schedule 10, it is too thin and will be dangerous.

3) The Nylon nipples provide isolation of the circuit where necessary.

4) The round spike insert must go far enough into the tube so that the entire spike is "just inside", a couple of mm. This will create the correct compression phase.

5) The brass sheathing can provide support right up to 5mm from the spike providing rigidity and preventing vibration that might give us a short circuit and prevent fatigue of the barbell. Stainless Tubing can be used instead here is a good place. Note the sizes available... The same method described herein with some minor modifications can provide the Neutral Tubes

http://www.steelexpress.co.uk/non-ferrous/stainlesssteel-seamlesstube.html#_316seamlessmetric

316L seamless metric and imperial is what you want to be looking at  

6) The entire exposed HELI assembly is conducting electricity and we cannot afford sparks or short circuits so must be sheathed in heat shrink tubing or Liquid electrical tape:

http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Liquid_Tape_-_Electrical_Insulation

7) Whether you want an entire HELI array wired in Parallel or a Single HELI dumping the entire PMA output through it is a range of possibilities that should be fun exploring.

My HELI resembles a jet nozzle because it is one, IF the HELP ever progresses to a point where it produces a gas mixture that comprises enough energetic content for reliable ignition be very carefull about pumping too many Watts across the "spark gap". You might just get a bang... and you DO NOT want that bang getting fired into the HELT at supersonic speed. You might just find you ended up with a PCT , not built to handle it, and blow yourself up. SO PLEASE BE CAREFULL!

9) I am particularly interested in what will happen along the Supersonic boundary layer of the DC - Tube inner wall. I do not believe anyone has experimented thus far with HHO production using a supersonic liquid.

10) I have been keeping an eye on my work via targeted searches ever since the HELT publication back in August last year. Up until now there has been no problem with availability. In the last few weeks my work has disappeared from search engines. It is still hosted on sites that have published it but you have to know its there to find it. Interesting.

I am wrapping it up there, I hope you all have 'carefull' fun with this

RM

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1.6mm Nut (would not let me post it with the others, exceeded my limit)

A point to note that I forgot to mention is that the round spike insert WILL vibrate loose and unscrew itself and get fired into your disc stack at supersonic velocity!

This is undesirable. Normally I would say loctite the thing on permanent however we need it to make an electrical connection through "some" threads. Just a little drop on the very tip of the barbell at final assembly should hold it tight and at the same time allow some "clean" threads to make the connection.

Check it with a multimeter

People with machining abilities can come up with a better "one piece" design without this "threaded" flaw.

Just be mindfull that an insert coming loose will destroy your HELT disc stack.

RM

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Lets talk a little bit about Boundary Layers:

When deciding on the spacing required for the HELP Disc Stack the diagram I have provided below may be of help to you...

Taking these one at a time:

Gap Spacing 0.25mm / 0.010"

We can see that 50% MECHANICAL Boundary Layer Compression is taking place. This means that a layer of liquid that "wants to be" 0.5mm / 0.020" thick is being forced via pumping to compress to half that size. Each Disc surface will "want to have" its own Boundary Layer but there is not enough room for that to occur and so the boundary Layers are "forced to cross" and produce Compressed Crossed Laminar Interference Flow.

Gap Spacing 0.50mm / 0.020"

We can see that there is room enough for one Boundary Layer between the Disc surfaces. This forces the "two" Boundary Layers to occupy the same space at the same time and creates 100% Crossed Laminar Interference Flow.

Gap Spacing 0.75mm / 0.030"

We can see that half of "two" individual Boundary Layers are forced to cross and create 50% Crossed Laminar Interference Flow. Along each Disc surface 50% of each Boundary Layer runs naturally and creates 50% Laminar Pure Flow.

Gap Spacing 1.0mm / 0.040"

The Boundary Layers along each Disc surface are spaced perfectly without interference and creates 100% Laminar Pure Flow along each Disc surface.

Gap Spacing 1.25mm / 0.050"

There is more room than the Boundary Layers along each Disc surface require and so 100% Laminar Pure Flow is created along each Disc surface and a region is created between them that is 100% Turbulent Flow.

Have a look here for some potential Nylon Washer Spacers in suitable Thickness Dimensions to prototype:

http://www.nylonalloys.co.uk/

Now, Nylon has a maximum operating temperature of about 80 degrees C before it softens. This is not ideal as the HELP being an Electro Lytic Heat Pump "may" go over this temperature. The same manufacturer does offer PolyPropylene Washers but the range available off the shelf is not suitable.

Polypropylene would be an acceptable solution for spacer shims as it has an operating temperature well in excess of 100 degrees C. If you can speak to a manufacturer they may make some for you at the required dimensions.

Alternatively get hold of some Polypropylene Sheet at the required thickness dimension and stamp your own using "sharpened" stainless steel seamless tubing and a mallet.

The goal in all this will be to experimentally test each "Disc Gap" for efficiency of conversion from Liquid to Gas. The resultant gas must then be tested for "Energetic Content". The simplest way to do this would be to run it into the combustion chamber of a Wankel Rotary and if the engine runs the resultant gas has "enough" Energetic Content. The Mini Wankel may be the easiest and cheapest way to test this and the Multi Spark Buzz Coil providing the ignition and timing.

Now, Lets talk about the HELI:

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES RUN THE HELP / HELIS / HELT TOGETHER UNTIL IT HAS BEEN ESTABLISHED WHETHER OR NOT THE HELI IS CAPABLE OF IGNITING THE RESULTANT GAS FROM THE HELP.

The reason this is important is because the HELT is producing HHO and any Ignition in the HELI is going to be fired at supersonic velocity into the HELT. The HELT IS NOT A COMBUSTION CHAMBER, it is a Turbine, and will not handle the stresses of combustion.

However, IF you were to run a standard Tesla Turbine, without the HHO producing aspect, then it may handle the stresses involved. The reason for this is that as the standard Tesla turbine does not produce HHO and is not an electronic circuit it can be made entirely out of Stainless Steel for the housing and  components.

So a HELI that has a Multi Spark Buzz Coil discharging across the "spark gap" may provide the opportunity for Pulsed Combustion with the timing set by the magnet on the Standard Tesla Pulse Combustion Turbine. Alternatively you could use a High Voltage Ignition Coil from an automobile but would have to figure out a way to "time" it, like an old fashioned distributor cap. The other alternative is to use a large Capacitor discharge event, and once again figure out a way to time it.

I favour the Buzz Coil at present as it is cheap, available off the shelf, and comes as standard with a timing circuit.

The other possibility for the HELI is that if it can be lit a "constant burn" may result. Instantly vaporising any remaining "unconverted" liquid Electrolyte into Steam. The conversion to Steam "may" absorb the Heat from the HHO combustion and prevent a constant burn from "melting" your turbine. The other possibility is that the presence of the unconverted liquid water will simply put the flame out.

The Pulse Combustion Turbine may be more favourable as it leaves "a gap" between combustion pulses which may aid cooling, and makes the steady state burn unnecessary as it will be rapidly re-lit on each discharge from the ignition coil. IF reliable ignition from the HELI can be achieved.

Some things for you all to think about...

RM