Trawoeer Power Pyramid Version 12 - Electrical output from a homemade pyramid

[k4zep]

Hi Ben,

I'm going to build V.12 also - I built V.6 back in 2007 and it set in my garage up until about 3 months ago. Then I threw it away. Seems you never know what your going to need...

I'll be working on the pyramid mornings, when it's cooler in the garage,  and the maybe the reactor in the afternoon.  I'm not a fast builder - wanna make sure I get this right.

It will be interesting to see how you handle the pyramid construction in the condo...

Hi Duff,

Great, glad to have another builder along too, misery loves company but it will be a new adventure.  Had all the fun I could out of the RomeroUK motor/generator, but might use/try my mini motor as the exciter!  But will use a "fan first.  I'm not a fast builder either as I like to look and dream at each part as I build.  I would like a bit stiffer mount for the reactor using 3/8's plastic rod but not sure if that is allowed inside the Pyramid.  I do have everything but that darn plastic rod for the tuning coils which is in the mail. I wonder if in later builds if 1" CPVC or PVC pipe would be OK.    I'm using 14THHN solid building wire,  3/8's and 1 1/4" CU.  Already have about $120 bucks in materials.  That hard CU is expensive at McMasters Carr but gotta do what we gotta do.
 
The gypsum board walls of the reactor are a mess for me as I simply have no place to keep it unless I can make if fold-able but I then have to make it fold out true for the correct reflectivity. As you say, we have to do it right!   Should have some pictures of the reactor tomorrow night to post.  I also have to bring the sand up and "cook" a quart of it in the oven and then seal in in a jar till I need it to keep it dry. 

I know what you mean about throwing stuff away and needing it a few weeks later, ALWAYS happens if you say, "Junk" toss it and then...

Later all,

Ben K4ZEP

[duff]

For Reference, here are quotes from Thomas Trawöeger regarding the pyramid frame construction.

TPP 1.2 The Frame
« on: November 26, 2007, 01:28:29 »

So we want to start now...

The first step will be to construct the Pyramides Frame.
I decided to give the V12 a fully new design, with special Focus in easy Construction. So we will keep anything unusual away, and make it so easy as it is.

For the first step, we need the following Material:

1 cheap Wood-Plate 1000mm x 1000mm (you can use the pressed construction-Plates, because we need this only for construction-help.

8 pc. Metal Tube square 20mm x 20mm x 2mm
1pc. metal Tube rounded 3/8" (watertube) approx. 1000mm (only for Constructionhelp)

The following tools will be necessary:

1 Marker Black approx. 2mm thickness
1 Driller
1 Welding-Machine (system is equal, i prefer MAG)
Something to cut Metal in different Angles (I use some FLEX)
Soemthing to create straight lines and a 90° Angle

Start:
Keep the Wood-Plate and sign in two diagonales with the marker. Do this very carefully, because it will help you for all the future work.
In the Center of the Plate (where the two diagonales will cross) drill a hole for the 3/8" Waterpipe. It will help you, if you have a thread on the tube.

Now be shure, that the Tube is in a correct 90° Angle on the Plate (in all directions) and fix the Tube with some Glue or hot-plastic glue.

This is your mounting Frame, and you will need this only for Construction. Check the Angle from time to time during installation for the correct angle.

Now you keep the square-tubes (2pc. with 1000mm) and give them to 2 opposite sides of the plate.
Cut 2 pc. of square-tubes to 960mm and give them to the plate to create a square.

Weld this now only with a few points to fix the square, and control that the square is in correct angle of 90° on all 4 Corners :-)

If anything is correct, weld the Corners on the Corners complete. (It doesn´t matter if you burn the plate Grin)

Control the angles after welding again, and check, that the square have "floor contact" to the plate.

The next step is a little bit more complicated, because we have to find the right cutting angle, and the right lenght for the next 4 Squaretubes. To keep the whole lengt of this tubes, we have to give away the 20mm of the groundframe. On the other side, we have to measure exactly 1000mm to the 3/8" Tube in the Center of the plate.

Mark exatly 1000mm from the bottom of our Metalsquare (in the corners) to the 3/8" Tube and mark it from each Corner.

This 4 Marks should be exactly in the same height of the 3/8" Tube.

Now cut the angles in the 20/20 squaretube for the Bottom and for the Top, and weld it together.

VERY IMPORTANT:
Don´t forget, that we will install some gypsum-plates on the pyramide. So it is helpful, to turn the 20/20 Squaretubes in a angle to give us mounting possibility for some screws.

I hope, the first step is understandable. We made some pictures from this stage, but the Camera was corrupted.
(The next steps are reported better :-), because we changed the Cam...)

Re: TPP 1.2 The Frame
« Reply #1 on: November 26, 2007, 07:28:42 »
Thanks to our Moderator Tigrotto, we have to explain a few Details a little bit closer:

When you keep the 4 pc. of 20/20 for the Top-Construction, you have to look for the right angles! So take the 20/20´s in approx. lenght, and mark the correct angle with the marker on this tube.
THE 3/8" round-tube will be a part of the Pyramide in the top-area, so you can weld the 4 Top-Peaces directly to the roundpipe.

If you measure from the absolutely Bottom of the 20/20 ground-structure (without wood-plate) to the TOP, you have to measure exactly 100 cm. (on the Corners)

The round-pipe (3/8") you can cut on the upper end of the 20/20´s.
Inside the pyramide, you cut the 3/8"" approx. 7-8 cm measured from the top.

(We need this Peace of Pipe for hanging in the inner parts)

If you want, you can weld a ring of metal to the Top (for better transportation with a stapler), but this ring will have no use, and it doesn´t disturb the system)

The welding of the upper part of the pyramide is a little bit tricky: keep the marker, and mark the curve of the 3/8" tube and the right angle, then cut the iron as best as possible, and control the total lenght of 100cm from Top to bottom before welding!

I hope, this is understandable, and i will go ahead if everbody checked this first part.

I will stop the timebased skript for 24 hours, and i will describe the future parts a little bit better

TPP 1.3 The Coating
« on: December 12, 2007, 01:14:53 »

Well Guys, we are late in Time, and we lost a day, because i had some Problems in my Job. But now it´s necessary, to go ahead

If we fixed the tricky Construction of the Frame, we have to do some cosmetic Work for our V12. You can paint the Pyramide in each Color you want for prevent it to get rusty. I prefer some cheap acrylic-color in black.
(You can believe, the kind of color doesn´t matter, so please don´t open a Thread with asking for the right color..)

You can paint ALL parts of the Frame, because on the final of Construction, we will need a small part with good electrical Contact, and we will put away the color only on this spot.

If the frame is colored, we go to Step 1.3 and will construct the hull.

For this hull, we need some gypsum-plates (you will get them worldwide)

I use the 12,5 mm Plates, but you can use even other dimensions, because it doesn´t affect the output.

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO USE GYPSUM-PLATES, BECAUSE OTHER MATERIALS DOESN´T WORK !

We need Material for all the 4 Sides of the Pyramide.

I use the 130 X 90cm Plates with 12,5mm, and we will need 4 pc of this plates.

The Bottom of our Pyramide will stay open, without any plate.
(So you can give your mounting-plate from Chapter 1.2 to the Junk, but if you want, you can fix the Plate too..)

The next Steps are really easy:
Put a Plate to the Floor, keep the pyramide with the first side (turned) to the gypsum-plate, and mark the cutting lines with some marker to the Plate.

Cut the Plate, and glue it with strong Construction glue to the frame.

Prepare the next Plate to the floor, turn the Pyramide in 90° and mark the next cutting-lines.
(This time, the gypsum-plate-part will become a little bit greater, because you will get the overlap of the first Plate.)

This Plate you can cut twice, because this plate will fit on the opposite site too.

On the end, you will glue this 2 pieces on the "left" andd on the "right" side of your Pyramide, and now you should have a pyramide, with 3 closed sides.

For the next step you should drill some holes (3-4 per each side) between gypsum-plate and metal frame, and fix it with metal-screws. (This will give your construction a better stability) I use some special screws (selbsttreiber) and with this screws, it´s not necessary to drill some holes before screwing. (see picture)

Now, put the last gypsum-plate to the floor, and lay the pyramide with the last open end downwards.
mark the Cutting-line and cut this part.

The 4th part isn´t glued or screwed yet!!!!!! Keep this piece byside, we will need it later!!!!

THE NEXT PART IS A LITTLE BIT TRICKY AGAIN!

Now, we have to find the Centerpoint of all the 4 gypsum-plates. You can use a circle (tool) to mark the Centerpoint of each side of the pyramide.
Please don´t forget, that you have to use the TOTAL MEASUREMENT of every side. (Thats, because the outsides of the pyramide are more than 1000mm now!!!!)

With a circle, you can mark from each Corner to get the Center.

If you found the Center of all 4 plates, drill a small hole in all the 4 Centers (2,5mm) and stick some welding Stick (3mm) inside.

Control, that all the Sticks are in correct 90° Angle to the plates, and you have the correct Center of the Pyramide.

(For this, you can fix the 4th Plate only with a few holding screws, and turn the pyramide to the side, to watch in from the bottom.

Now you need some Plastic-Tube wich fits prefectly into your 3/8" Tube on the top of the Pyramide. (Installation-tube for electricals)

Stick in the Plastic-Tube and fit it good. Then mark the Center of your Pyramide on this tube.

Now you can give away the welding-sticks, remove the 4.th Plate and you have done everything neccesary for this step.

Now we have the complete Pyramide, and we have the Centerpoint of our Pyramide..

If you want, you can Paint the Pyramide with Wall-Color, and you can make any system to open and close the 4.th Plate of the Pyramide.
(I don´t wasted time wich such mechanism, but it would look better)

This is the end of Chapter 1.

The next step will come with Chapter 2 (the inside)

We have to hurry, because i want to get ready at Christmas Grin

[duff]

Hi Ben,

I would like a bit stiffer mount for the reactor using 3/8's plastic rod but not sure if that is allowed inside the Pyramid.

I think a plastic rod would work - Thomas used plexiglass mounting a capacitor directly on the reactor of earlier models.

I do have everything but that darn plastic rod for the tuning coils which is in the mail. I wonder if in later builds if 1" CPVC or PVC pipe would be OK.    I'm using 14THHN solid building wire,  3/8's and 1 1/4" CU.  Already have about $120 bucks in materials.  That hard CU is expensive at McMasters Carr but gotta do what we gotta do.

Did you really mean 3/8's CU?

The small tube was 20mm - approx 3/4"

[k4zep]

For Reference, here are quotes from Thomas Trawöeger regarding the pyramid frame construction.

THANKS FOR THE INFO ON THE PYRAMID!!!  EXCELLENT

Ben K4ZEP

[k4zep]

Hi Ben,

I think a plastic rod would work - Thomas used plexiglass mounting a capacitor directly on the reactor of earlier models.

Did you really mean 3/8's CU?

The small tube was 20mm - approx 3/4"

Hi Duff,

Check the #2 Video at around 5:10 into it.  The small tube is 10mm X 36cm, elsewhere the big tube is 29/30 mm X 29 cm.
1 1/4 and 3/8 tubing Diameter is as close as I could get, considered 1/4 but a bit too small I think.

Hope that helps.

Ben K4ZEP