Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells

[NickZ]

    Guys:
   There are only two items Aluminum, and Carbon, in my cells, just those two items will give me about 3/4 volt, but if I add the carbon rod, I get higher voltages, over one volt.  This is the point that I'm trying to make, there is No Electrolyte, as none is needed. It surprises me too. 
The carbons conductivity is important, as there are a thousand types of carbon, and they are all different. The carbon rods and aluminum cathode by themselves will not generate any power at all, (0 volts, 0mA). It needs the wood carbon, as the electrolyte, if you want to call it that. A cell will still work without the carbon rod as the anodes, but it does need the wood carbon and the aluminum or Mg as the cathode. Like I said before... try it you'll like it.  Carbon is where its at... quartz helps, but is not essential.
My original capacitor cells now several months old are still generating 1.234 volts.  Time will tell, and it has...  I'll make a video one of these days, but, I'm still tinkering on it. 
  Dry cells are not as easy to get higher outputs from, but I'm getting there.  I may have to just make more of them, that's all.
 
                                          NickZ

[jbignes5]

Umm doesn't wood have crystalline material from the sap??? There is an electrolyte you just don't know it lol. Using water before you make the layers is very important. The squeeze or pressure will help dry it out and it should become more solid after it dries. I wouldn't use the battery till it is all the way dry because of electrolysis or galvanic reaction. This is why you should oxidize the aluminum first because it can help with the galvanic response and protect the aluminum while it dries.

Oh on a sidenote the first battery I made is back again, letting it rest fixed it.

Here is an interesting find. I have 4 in series which runs a 5.5 volts led light head. Usually the voltage drop is around 2.5-2.7 volts across the led. When i disconnected the negative for the batteries my hands touched the wires and it lit up a bit. The volt meter started going up from 1.5 volts to just under full capability of 2.5 volts. This connection made through my hands and arms was very unexpected. No sensation at all from that connection.

[NickZ]

   Guys:
    I've heard of other people trying the charcoal briquettes along with a piece of magnesium, and have gotten 1.3 volts.  And some others have tried the aquarium charcoal.  The important thing with the carbon is that is needs to conduct well, or it won't work. To conduct it needs to be pressed together, and not loose powder.
Normally one would combine the carbon powder with linseed oil and mineral spirits (to thin the oil) and make the carbon rod, or carbon plate, etz..  I just wanted to try it totally dry pressed inside of a capacitor can,  and it does work. But, the carbon powder needs to be pressed down hard to compress it as much as possible.
  There is no sap or resin left in a piece of carbon, as all the wood has been carbonized, along with anything else that was in it, so this is dry stuff, but different from the carbon rods that I've used, or the pencil leads. One can dope the pulverized carbon with graphite powder, quartz, aquamarine, or whatever work to raise the output.  The semiconductor treatment on the aluminum capacitor can wouldn't hurt,either. It is best to use magnesium cathodes if possible, or just add an extra cell to the line up, to get the same voltage

I just made two very small dry carbon capacitor cells, and am getting 0.93 volts from each, and 1.91 volts from both of these cells in series, and 9 mA from each cell.  Which for their size (1/4 " by  3/4" is not bad. 
I've made those two cells small as I'm still trying out different things. I had put white glue on top to seal them, and this morning after resting all night both cells has a blow hole in the glue, just like the hot dog cell has done. This can be from the wet watery glue touching  both the anode as well as the cathode, I believe.  In the future I'll use the clear 5 minute E-poxy to seal them, as it does not conduct.
This is the proof that I was looking for, that even these dry cells can produce hydrogen gas (and water). Once the water in the glue drys out completely, there should be no more gas venting, or will there be?  I'll soon find out... as this gas venting from the electrolysis action may be the root of both our oxidation, and lowering output problems, over time.
 

[NickZ]

    Jbigness5:
   Finally someone sees the same thing as I've been seeing...  that the led will light on a one wire connection.
I'm very much into working to exploit that effect, to the max.
Dr. Stiffler's thread deals with what I believe to be the same or similar thing. "Voltage out of thin air"
Like with his PSEC devices or coils set ups.   But, to make 100 leds or more to light at full brightness, takes a bit more work, though.  But I'm very exited about it, and that is what occupies my mind much of the time.
                                                                                        NickZ
   

[jbignes5]

I got pure carbon from an art store. I have tried reading the resistance and it is very conductive. I am suspecting that it should do very well in the can. I'm gonna protect the aluminum or magnesium with pre-oxidation. So that removes galvanic. Not having water in the final unit will be the results. I am gonna use it to layer the different materials then bake the unit to release the water and help setup the internal structure. It will of course have a special end cap to facilitate this procedure and be seal-able once the water is removed fully or as best as we can get it. I am thinking these batteries will need a special protective diode to keep a reverse voltage from reversing and causing any water left in the unit from doing electrolysis as well. Once we guard against these problems I'm sure there are others to be solved.