Ibpointless2 Crystal Cells

[jbignes5]

The big Crystal cell is just Elmer's glue, salt substitute, and Epsom salt with copper tube and a lot of magnesium ribbon. The key to the power is to use both sides of the magnesium ribbon, you must think in three dimensions. I'm working on a way to simplify it and then i'll make a how to video on how to make this cell and even bigger ones. The crystal glue cell (the big blue one and others) and the Stove top cells (the one that runs Lidmotor penny oscillator) are the ones that are doing good. I may have a new crystal cell (Elmers glue, Cream of tartar, Epsom salt, and Salt substitute) that i'm testing out.

I don't think weight of the metal is important. The amount of metal touching the crystal is important. This why John Bedini likes using the star shape, it gives him the most surface area.

From my experiences with these cells I've found that Borax would super charge the cells, but it came at a price. Some but not all of the cells that had borax would never fully recharge back to the original voltage. The borax can be a hit or miss, but if used right it can make a powerful cell.

Woo hoo I can post again!

I agree that if one was to use the entire potential from all around the magnesium then you would have a stranger potential.

I am thinking the boron in the borax is the super charger element for the crystal structure.

I think the mass and density is also very important. The more mass the more charge that is contained in the matter. Also I believe different layers of metals tend to focus the internal potential into tighter configurations. Think of it like cheese cloth of different pore sizes. The internal metal would be less dense then the external metal that was plated onto it. This would tend to split the potential into a finer structure and have a better, tighter filter to present to the medium of the crystalline structure. This should only be done to the external electrode and only to the presenting side or inner facing surface that the crystal is exposed to. The external surface would be better off left as magnesium. One method that I have seen work well is to use an oxide to coat the electrode. I am assuming this should only be for the contact area of the crystalline medium so that the exposed surface can access the environmental charges and pass them into the compression area of the crystalline structure.

The price of this borax substance is water and it's ability to dissolve the metal. The oxide layer is good for protecting the electrodes so that will eliminate erosion of the metal. As for the ability to hold the potential up under load I am thinking this is a mixture problem. If the structure has too many holes it will become weaker. The mixture is mean to fill the holes.

Seeing that carbon is being used as an electrode proves to me it is not the matter that is responsible for the flow of current. It is geometry of the surface areas of the structure of crystals and the geometry we can get out of these cells. The metal is merely aligning the structure into a tighter and tighter configuration all flowing twords the center electrode.

[NickZ]

 There is a relation to the size of the cell and its ability to produce and store an output, and especially of a current of more than just a few mAs.
That is why the higher farad capacitors are made much bigger than the lower farads one. If they could get the same output, they would be making the bigger and stronger ones, small also.
   But the idea of using both sides of the negative electrode to further increase the output is of interest.
  I have made cells similar to Ib's last larger blue cell, although not using the salts electrolyte, yet.   By placing several winds of cathode electrode wire in series on the same copper tube, the output voltage can be raised to several volts, that can light several white leds, with no oscillator needed.
This is in relation to the number of coils windings that are placed on just that one single copper tube. When placed in parallel higher current can also be obtained. As that system works both in series, as well as when placed in parallel. But, I am very interested in the use of a dry sealed electrolyte, instead of the using a wet paper towel.
  It is also a bit strange that little output was obtained by Ib when he used the same mix on the flat 4" cu/mg  plates. This I don't understand, as I do get some voltage even with my set up, (pictured below).
  My table salt glue cell in now incased in a metal holder, and is still working after about 3 months time. So, even just using regular salt does work, too, raw sea salt has more minerals and would probably work better yet.

[jbignes5]

There is a relation to the size of the cell and its ability to produce and store an output, and especially of a current of more than just a few mAs.
That is why the higher farad capacitors are made much bigger than the lower farads one. If they could get the same output, they would be making the bigger and stronger ones, small also.
   But the idea of using both sides of the negative electrode to further increase the output is of interest.
  I have made cells similar to Ib's last larger blue cell, although not using the salts electrolyte, yet.   By placing several winds of cathode electrode wire in series on the same copper tube, the output voltage can be raised to several volts, that can light several white leds, with no oscillator needed.
This is in relation to the number of coils windings that are placed on just that one single copper tube. When placed in parallel higher current can also be obtained. As that system works both in series, as well as when placed in parallel. But, I am very interested in the use of a dry sealed electrolyte, instead of the using a wet paper towel.
  It is also a bit strange that little output was obtained by Ib when he used the same mix on the flat 4" cu/mg  plates. This I don't understand, as I do get some voltage even with my set up, (pictured below).
  My table salt glue cell in now incased in a metal holder, and is still working after about 3 months time. So, even just using regular salt does work, too, raw sea salt has more minerals and would probably work better yet.

Right nick it is just a fancy transformer. With one single wrap to many outer wraps. The medium of induction is actually the crystal lattice. In the action of the induction it focuses the charges and raises the potential. The material of the electrode merely provides the bias to open the channel (diode). Size may not be an issue if the lattice is able to hold it's form. The problem is that we are using soft crystalline material. The fix would be to use a harder lattice with the perfect lattice being a diamond.

The other issue you mentioned flat versus concentric. I mentioned this before. Round will always be better. This is because the lattice will compress itself as it grows. This allows a better induction path, closer having more effect. In using the heating and cooling phase transitions we are letting the material cool from the outside twords the inner electrode. This creates a focus.

[NickZ]

  You may be right about it acting as a transformer.  I did see a video where a  guy obtained a nice output with only a just few wraps of mg ribbon, over the solid copper core.. So, more tests are needed. There is some hidden magic there...
  I had a thought about making my own large toroid core made out of carbon, (inside a toroid shaped mold), then after removing the core from the mold, winding aluminum or mag wire around it.  I'll probably make a smaller version, like a two or three inch carbon toroid first.  It has to work, but how well is the question. I have a feeling that it would work very well, with low impedance, and a higher running output, conserving its output levels instead of dissipating them, as the flat plates may do. 

[ibpointless2]

Crystal Cell powering a pulse motor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmY778UXyPk