Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of these Archives, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above.
You can visit us or register at my main site at:
Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Motor

Started by Lynxsteam, July 22, 2012, 11:54:57 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Magluvin

Hey Lynx

I noticed in your motor vid that the batt starts at 12.55v, but once you started the motor and you got it to jump to a higher rpm, shortly after starting, the meter went up to 12.6.

What was it that you were doing that made the motor speed up/voltage up, at the time?

Something happened there. ;] Cuz if anything, while the motor was running, we should have only seen a voltage drop. ;]

Mags

Lynxsteam

Magluvin,

I think what happens is the capacitor is charged up from the last run sometimes and when I hook up the battery to the motor that charge feeds back to the battery in a quick charge. 

Timing is everything with this setup.  Now I am not using the AC feedback at all.  Just the basic circuit with a bridge rectifier/capacitor in the power line.  The AC now comes from antenna and earth ground.  This is like alchemy.  I have no idea what I am doing sometimes, just trying things.  This is sort of the electron pump idea.  If the DC is pulsing across the capacitor I am trying to siphon some energy from a 50 ft antenna and a solid earth ground.  If the capacitor is bouncing back and forth like a timpani drum I am trying to pull in charge from air and ground.

I definitely see a very slow decline in battery voltage while running, but when I check the battery resting voltage it can be higher than starting voltage.  I think this is significant because if you ran a screaming RS motor for five minutes you would see a decline in battery voltage and a hot motor.

synchro1

This closed loop Hall effect spinner circuit of Lidmotor's returns back spikes to the source capacitor:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=729qGYl7pTw

Lynxsteam

Lidmotor inspires me to try new things.  I love his videos and his easy style.  (We are both sailors)

I can easily light led's run fans, etc off the Joule Motor.  I have made a lot of Joule Thiefs.  They are fun and amazing.  But, I have moved past that.  A Bedini motor uses the magnet to trigger the transistor to push the magnet away and the flyback is a high voltage spike.  But the trigger coil doesn't do much other than trigger the transistor.

Naively, I am trying really hard to do something more amazing in my experimenting.  I love a challenge.

The challenge is to fool the motor rpm into running fast enough to put out a higher voltage than the source battery.  To do that we need to have the magnet spin past the coils and in such an orientation to run on top of the flyback charge voltage.  Also, timing the induced current so that the it flows through the other coil back to the battery in a way that increases rpm.

I wont succeed in achieving OU, but I will exhaust this line of experimenting and maybe something will come of it.

Lynxsteam

Here are the instructions for making this Lynx Joule Motor as simple as I can make it.  Feel free to use your own scraps and techniques.  Avoid using metals, even aluminum which will cause the magnetic field to drag.
You can trigger the transistor in other ways, but the magnetic fields are pretty strong.
Neodymium magnets would be better but aren't necessary.  Any ceramic magnets will do for experimenting.
When you come to the point of orienting the coil leads, just hook up a 1.5 volt battery straight to the coil and see which way the magnets move.  You can mark the magnets N/S and see which way the field is oriented.  Solder the coils to the circuit.
Remember with air core coils the center will act as a pole when energized, but when induction occurs it is only when the magnet pole aligns with a leg of the coil, (not the center of the coil).
Adjust the base resistor (33 for high amp draw, 400 for low amp draw, 1k potentiometer would be ideal))  for the best speed and lowest amp draw.  You will be looking for a point at which the battery drain while running is near zero. 
Fine tuning the transistor on and off time and base resistor value is fun!