Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

  Gyula:
  The actual purpose of obtaining the weaker 10 amp PS is to form part of the feed-back circuit, not to run the Mazilli circuit.
I picked it because it has no cooling fan. All the 15 amp or higher units need to use a fan.  And Ruslan's PS does not have a fan.

   As I only have one 12v, 7ah battery currently, I used the PS as Itsu did also, to supply the 24v input to the induction oscillator  driver, for now. Unfortunately, it does not do a very good job of it, maybe part of the cause of Itsu's low output to his bulbs. But, I hope that the PS can provide enough of the needed input for the oscillators, both Kacher and Mazilli to run on, for the device to run itself, as the part of the feed-back loop.
The PS will drive the Kacher ok, but will only drive the Mazilli on very low current loading, like 25 to 50 watts, or so. So, another battery may be needed to get the full effect generation from the device.
   There are still many things that I need to look into and try to resolve.  That's why I'm here. But, the first thing is to be able to run the circuit without overheating the fets.  The answer should be simple,  run on less that 2 100w bulbs, for now, so that it won't overtax the fets, etz...  But, the problem is that it will still overheat. Therefore I'm looking for a commercial push-pull TL494 driver, instead, while I try to make what I have work to better.
   I don't think that the 75v, 200 amp fets will burn out on my circuit, as Ruslan is using them, but it's also worth trying out the lower resistance ones, as well. Although the 13 times less resistance of the other fets does sound like an important point, so also may be worth a try.

  I'm remounting the two fets on big PC motherboard processor heat-sinks, with fans, now.  Although I'd rather not have to hear 3 fans running, including the Kacher's transistor cooling fan.

  Tomtech:  I will replace the UF 306 cross-over diodes, with IN4007, or similar 1000v 1 amp non UF series diodes, and see if that helps. Somehow I doubt it, though, as I had them on before, and had similar heating problems.
  I finally found and bought a big 220v 250w bulb to try out, and the Mazilli running on just a 12v battery will partially light it. Good sign...

[jake084]

Hello everyone .
In the two pictures in the attachment, I pointed out certain measures that I don't know what they represent.
Are they measures of the length of the cable, wavelength? I'm not sure, thanks for the help.

^{\note for moderators:I'm sorry if my last two posts were mess, I resized my pictures and stated my questions clear now.[/sub]}

[Hoppy]

  I'll get it, when I do, the PS will probably be able to run both the Mazilli and the Kacher circuits ok. But this PS is known for NOT providing the 10amp output, and also dropping the voltage when running a large load. So, if it won't cut it,  I'll have to buy another new 12v battery to have two of them providing for the 24v input.

Nick,

Another 12V, 7A/hr battery to run in series with your existing battery to give 24V will not help you. As I commented way back, you need a much higher capacity battery set to run the lamp load you require. If you don't get a suitable power supply, then you may continue to have a problematic setup.

[NickZ]

    Hoppy:
    Using two 12v, 7ah batteries is not meant to run the load of the device, they are only for short duration testing purposes.
The PS is really only meant to be used for the loop, but I thought that I'd try it, as Itsu did. And like he said, I doubt that there will be much difference by using two 12v batteries instead. Looks like he used a 15amp supply with a fan incorporated, instead of the 10amp. But, maybe there is a difference, but not in the heating issue, as it's just as bad.
  I had previously used a 45ah car battery, and noticed no real difference over the 7ah battery. Even my old blotted 4.5ah battery could run the device fine for a while,  even with a 650w load, like was shown in one of my previous video. The problem is the heat issue, not lack of power.
  As you know I included the 18v zeners, that you suggested to use, and even when using the car battery in series with a 7ah battery, the heating issue was still present. Nor has any one else been able to run several hundred watt loads, and not overheat the mosfets. Just ask Geo, what that 1000w bulb he has does to his fets.
   The question is how does Akula/Ruslan manage to run 2000- 4000 watt loads, using the same mosfets, which are designed for up to a 280w limit???
 
   The IRFB3077 has a 380 watt limit, so, 100w higher than the IRFP260N, and lower resistance, which might be just what is needed, for less heating of the components.
   
   In any case after what Gyula has mentioned, I will run only up to 200w loads, for now. But, my fets heat up even with a 25 watt load, even though the fets are fine.  So, big heat sinks with fans are in order, even though I hate to have to hear them whizzing.
  Thanks for the info on the commercial induction circuit that you tried out. But, why did the IGBT burn out? Which model did you use?

[Hoppy]

Nick,

As posted before, I used the latest high voltage V2 model here, designed to run loads such as Tesla coils. The IGBT failed due to HV spiking despite having protection circuitry.

Irrespective of whether you have a 100W or 1,000W load, your small 7A/hr SLABS are not suitable. Neither your car battery if its in poor condition. Yes, you may be able to run for a short period of time until the battery terminal voltage drops too low to switch the mosfets properly.

"The question is how does Akula/Ruslan manage to run 2000- 4000 watt loads, using the same mosfets, which are designed for up to a 280w limit???"  You will have answered that question when you  eventually realise that his mosfets could not have run a load genuinely dissipating 2000 - 4000 Watts.