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Overunity Machines Forum



Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

Started by 27Bubba, September 18, 2012, 02:17:22 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 128 Guests are viewing this topic.

itsu


Thanks Geo,

i looked at your video's, the RF effect is amazing, it must have something to do with your wrapping together the wires instead of soldering them,
the use of clipleads and off course a good ground, which i lack here.

Thanks for your offer to help (in Dutch, which is very good by the way), but i will do some further tests with the pulser first and hook up the whole
system to see if there is any effect from the nano-pulser visible on the series LC sine wave when in resonance.

I am also working on a PLL driven TL494 system designed by verpies to stabilize the resonance, so lots to do.

Keep it comming,  regards (groeten) Itsu


Hoppy

Hi Geo,

Any chance of seeing your setup running off a battery supply?

Void

Quote from: GeoFusion on April 30, 2016, 11:27:21 AM
Thank you for the reply, It's so simple! Void  ;D follow the wire and I have it on a diagram I have posted a while ago!
which two wire are you referring too?
I had no shoes Installed around my feet  ;D, Hard core style.
But yes need to be careful with that voltage it's deadly at output.

Hi Geo. It may be obvious to you how you have the wires connected, but it is not always so easy for
a video viewer to be sure where wires are connected. :) I love how many people assume that because they
know where their hay wires are going that everyone watching just can easily see that too. ;D
Anyway, no worries. I was just curious what the wires from your 'mediator coil' were connected to.

When you have bare feet on concrete your feet are pretty well connected to ground, so if you happen to touch
a live wire (or live heat sink ;) ) you can easily get current flowing right through your body. It doesn't take much
current (low mA) flowing across a person's heart area to potentially stop a person' s heart. When your feet are
pretty well grounded, that is more of a risk. It's also for this reason that TV repairmen had a safety rule to keep
one hand in their pocket when working inside a live TV, as this reduces the chance of current flowing across the
chest from arm to arm if one hand touches a live wire, and the other hand is touching some form of ground or low potential
(if not in a person's pocket more safely out of the way).
No yoke. :)

P.S. A few comments on your video. When you tune the tesla coil/kacher frequency close to a resonance frequency on the
grenade and then turn on both the PWM and kacher at the same time, the two signals should add together to some degree
in the grenade to give a higher output than when just having one or the other turned on alone. That in itself is not unexpected.
However, if you turn them both on at the same time and you suddenly can easily light say two or three 100W light bulbs
very brightly with no corresponding increase in input current draw, then you may possibly be entering into OU territory.
From what I have seen in your latest video, based on the input current draw shown on your ammeter, it is not looking to me
like your output is higher than the input power draw. The approx. 4.5A at 24V would seem to accommodate the brightness of
the light bulbs you had connected, closely enough.


itsu


The pulser did not like the open ended coax, it blew the IGBT (all 3 leads shorted) and toke the 250V driver circuit (ir2153 and 2x irf540) with it.
A new IGBT is in, as an ir2153.    Tomorrow i will replace the both irf540's.

This reminded me to my initial plan to insert a fast fuse in the 250V supply line  ::)

Itsu

verpies

I told you so  :'(

Quote from: verpies on April 27, 2016, 11:18:15 PM
I don't remember what Dally did to the end of the coax, but if I were experimenting I would start with a properly terminated end and if that did not work then I would try a shorted and an open end, because I would be afraid that the reflected pulse would come back and blow up my pulser...

A bidirectional TVS diode that clamps the collector to emitter closely to the IGBT's maximum rated voltage, might have prevented this disaster.
Also, this is a lesson that D1 should have higher maximum ratings.

Finally, if I were you, I'd put the fuse in series with L1.