Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Grumage]

If the split ± power supply is not a problem for you, then Great!

Dear Verpies and all.

It's no problem, I just connect the 2+'s and 2-'s together and "hit the power"!! If you try a slow build up the Mos-fet's just burn out!!

Dear Nick, thanks for the link, I will view tomorrow it's really late here now.

Good night. Grum.

[NickZ]

   Those of us that were part of the Exciter or SEC Exciter groups, maybe recall Dr. Stiffler mentioned that it's not only the self resonant frequency of the coil that is important in his SEC and PSEC devices , but the SRF also. "Spacial Resonant Frequency". This is obtained in a somewhat similar manner as was showed by Wesley's group a couple of years ago. Although, some other guys did try to replicate the effect by tuning using two SGs, using that or similar method, but got nowhere with it.
This is a very tricky tuning process, not easily learned. But, I suspect that it may also apply especially well, here, as well. Even if it's not right on the money, the coils and device might work well enough to run itself, and not run away, or melt down, or just overheat itself.

  TinselKoala:  If you can show lighting a 1000 or more WATTS worth of bulbs underwater at full brightness or so, using that method, I would change my mind. But, I'm not dismissing anything. As I think this and more is possible, especially when dealing with magnetic "cold electricity", not just a higher voltage and frequency of hot electricity. 

[TinselKoala]

If the split ± power supply is not a problem for you, then Great!

If you are talking about this schematic
http://4hv.org/e107_files/public/1251129162_89_FT1630_through_hole_wireless-schematic.pdf
then you are wrong, it does not need a "split" power supply and in fact it is the exact circuit, even down to the heatsinks and PCB layout, that I used for the transmitter in the "black box" video above.

[TinselKoala]

Dear Verpies and all.

It's no problem, I just connect the 2+'s and 2-'s together and "hit the power"!! If you try a slow build up the Mos-fet's just burn out!!

Dear Nick, thanks for the link, I will view tomorrow it's really late here now.

Good night. Grum.

That's right, and also if you try to operate it without the antenna loop connected.

The first time you power up the circuit, use an inline ammeter and if the amps seem to go up uncontrollably as you  bring up the voltage, stop! Disconnect the voltage, set the power supply to at least 12 volts, and just "hit the power" as Grum says. It should start oscillating and have a reasonably low amp draw like 1-3 amps. You can go up much higher on the input once you are satisfied that it is oscillating. One great feature of this circuit is that it is "zero-voltage-switching" so the mosfets stay fairly cool during operation; if they heat up fast, something is wrong. Also be sure to use the best poly film caps you can find for the tank capacitor(s) and it's probably best to build this up from smaller units in parallel, with higher voltage ratings.

[TinselKoala]

   (snip)

  TinselKoala:  If you can show lighting a 1000 or more WATTS worth of bulbs underwater at full brightness or so, using that method, I would change my mind. But, I'm not dismissing anything. As I think this and more is possible, especially when dealing with magnetic "cold electricity", not just a higher voltage and frequency of hot electricity.

As I said, I could do it... in fact I've actually demonstrated wireless electrolysis at about 100 Watts input to the electrolysis cell.... but not with the present set of components, and I'm too broke to buy higher-rated ones right now.
Feel free to experiment with the transmitter circuit yourself, though; if you use components capable of handling the circulating power in the antenna loop and the tank... which even in my build involves 40 amps or more of peak current... then you will have great success. Put a loop of 1 inch copper pipe around the baseboards of a goodsized room, use the right capacitors and semiconductors, and you can power anything in the room with only a matching capacitor and a pickup coil for the receiver. If you need DC, a fast rectifier and a filter cap complete the receiver circuit for DC output.