Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

   If the only way to see this shorting affect is with mechanical devices, I'm not into it, at all.
   Like I said, Akula has done it to some degree, so I'm still going that route, for now. The capacitor may be the key, and I also don't have the right ones, whichever ones they may be.
   I'm having some mayor problems with my computer motherboard, again, as they only last a year or two in this tropical humid climate. So, in case you don't hear from me, you'll know what happened.  The worse part is that I can't really afford another motherboard, as the shipping alone on the last one was $80 just for that alone.
  Now that they have $60 flashdrive size android pc, I'm tempted to go that route instead. But my monitor is VGA, and won't work with them, I think.
 
 

[Hoppy]

Dear Void.

Deeply sorry for the confusion. I was in such haste to post the video because of the findings.

Yes you are quite right, a simple reed switch shorts the genrating coil and the results are what you witnessed. And no, there was no load resistor connected across the cap.

To all, sorry if I have gone off topic a little but I was trying to find the simplest method to see the results of coil shorting for myself. To Hoppy, in resuming test's this morning I can now short without affecting the rotor's speed. However catastrophy...... Now burnt out my Reed switches........ Thank goodness for Maplin!!!

Will be trying later to provide a BEMF as suggested by T-1000... Gates of Hell await??

Cheers to one and all. Grum.

Afternoon Grum,

My findings are that it can take time to slow the rotor and register clearly on an IR tacho. Also, it is necessary to dump the charge from the cap off at pre-set intervals as would be done in a practical application, so that a realistic loading is applied to the rotor by virtue of the cap having to be repeatedly re-charged from the voltage spikes. Simply re-spiking a fully charged cap is not applying a realistic loading on the rotor.

[TinselKoala]

You can probably "short" the coil by using a fast diode in the right part of the circuit instead of a mechanical switch.
You can probably greatly extend the life of your expensive and fragile reed switches by putting a ceramic capacitor of 0.01 uF or so directly across the contacts as close to the switch as possible. Experiment with the cap value, to minimize arcing and the effect on the rest of the circuit.
You can also affect the behaviour of reed switches in interesting ways by using a "biasing" magnet on the opposite side of the reed from the triggering magnet. Experiment with spacing, etc.
You can put a simple, constant load on the charging-up cap by using a voltage divider and an LED. You'll be wasting power in the resistors of the divider, but better loads can be designed later. By balancing the output load to the spike input charging, you can keep the cap charging and discharging on every magnet passage and thus apply a realistic load to the rotor system.

[NickZ]

  Ok, I been working on my computer today, as the screen would turn black, and turn itself off, then on again, and off, on again, then off an on... Then the keyboard finally stopped working, also. So, I replaced the keyboard, and now everything works fine, as it should. So, I'm in like Flynn again.
  Now I can get back to work on the Akula replication. Hope others can join me as well. 
Bring your own spoon...
                                        NickZ

[NickZ]

  Now this video (below) has got me wondering, is this an Akula supercharger unit, or what? Same electrical junction box as he used in the last video, maybe. Looks what's inside,  no batteries?

  I didn't know that some of my corny comments were also to be found on Goggle. Now I have to watch what I say.
  Any way, that's life in the jungle.

   Akula video
http://video.yandex.ru/users/akula0083/view/5/user-tag/%D0%B4%D0%B2%D1%81/#