Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

Nick,
I don' t know if you can do or did it alteady but try to compare your mazilli Fet driver (gates) signals with the TL's.

Succes

  apecor:  The Mazilli driver has been recycled and is not intact, so no, I can't compare the Mazilli with the TL board.
   What size, type, and number of windings are your yoke choke(s)?  As I can't understand how your fets are staying only warm.
How hot do your fets get when using 3 or 4 100w bulbs, while the bulbs are running at use able brightness?

   Hoppy: I am already running two chokes, a one inch yellow iron powder choke, and also a 3/4 inch iron powder core choke, as can be seen in my device images. Even they are getting way too hot, and will melt down their coils insulation coatings if I run them for over 5 or 10 minutes.
What do you suggest that I should I change to? Or, what would you consider as suitable?
Normally one choke is what most self runners are using.
  I have used as many as three chokes on the Mazilli driver to light up 700w worth of bulbs, as I've shown on previous videos. And the chokes did get hot. Way too hot, as well, but the fets stayed cooler than they are getting now, but even then the fets were also getting hot in due time.
  I was hoping that the TL board with it's duty cycle controller would not allow the fets and chokes to get as hot, nor draw so much current, as compared to the Mazilli running at 100% duty cycle.  But, I guessed wrong.

  Anyways, I just bought a couple more new fets, so I'm good to go.
  Waiting for your replies...

[AlienGrey]

  apecor:  The Mazilli driver has been recycled and is not intact, so no, I can't compare the Mazilli with the TL board.
   What size, type, and number of windings are your yoke choke(s)?  As I can't understand how your fets are staying only warm.
How hot do your fets get when using 3 or 4 100w bulbs, while the bulbs are running at use able brightness?

   Hoppy: I am already running two chokes, a one inch yellow iron powder choke, and also a 3/4 inch iron powder core choke, as can be seen in my device images. Even they are getting way too hot, and will melt down their coils insulation coatings if I run them for over 5 or 10 minutes.
What do you suggest that I should I change to? Or, what would you consider as suitable?
Normally one choke is what most self runners are using.
  I have used as many as three chokes on the Mazilli driver to light up 700w worth of bulbs, as I've shown on previous videos. And the chokes did get hot. Way too hot, as well, but the fets stayed cooler than they are getting now, but even then the fets were also getting hot in due time.
  I was hoping that the TL board with it's duty cycle controller would not allow the fets and chokes to get as hot, nor draw so much current, as compared to the Mazilli running at 100% duty cycle.  But, I guessed wrong.

  Anyways, I just bought a couple more new fets, so I'm good to go.
  Waiting for your replies...

If you have chokes that are getting hot your incurring losses most likely the cores are low frequency or windings are badly tuned or windings are too thin note some cores are very low frequency whatever driver device your using it would be a good idea to make sure it's all in tune resonance bbut not all energy should come from the fets otherwise its a switch mode converter.

AG

[Hoppy]

Nick,

The primary problem is likely to be lack of duty cycle control due to supply rail spiking adversely affecting the TL494. You should see an improvement if you use a separate supply for the TL494 and fet drivers and star ground to the primary power supply. You will need to experiment with chokes once you have gained reasonable duty cycle control. Getting the snubbing right takes experimentation whilst studying the waveforms. As you are finding, its a steep learning curve! As a start, increase the size of your heat sinks and make sure you have good thermal transfer from fets to heatsinks by using new pads or grease.

[TinselKoala]

I just completed my construction of the TL494 + TC4420 halfbridge driver board. Seems to work fine so far. I'm using IRF3205 mosfets and they do not heat up appreciably. IRF830s did heat up more than I like. I don't have any spare P260s to try at the moment. The Base signals coming out of the 4420s have a Fall Time of under 5 ns, which pleases me greatly.
I'm using 400 pF of mica caps for the frequency (Pin 5) with 10k trimpots. This allows me to cover my own frequency range of interest (from around 125 to around 280 kHz or so, single channel). Snubbers are 10 nF + 22R.
No, I do not have the Kapa coil sets made up yet but early testing with some misc. inductive and resistive loads so far have not revealed any major problems.

[NickZ]

   TK:
   Nice!!!
   It's easy to see how it's all connected up that way. You mentioned the Kapa coil set up. Is that what you will use the board for?
   I see that you have a newer digital scope now also, not the older analog Tektronics one you were using before, which was similar to mine.
   So, I'm waiting to see how it all works out for you.
   Maybe place a link to some of your newer videos, also, as I see you've got some out on YT.

    Hoppy: I believe that you are right about separating the inputs from the TL circuit and the Fet drivers circuits. That can be the cause of cross interference to the signals. I'm waiting for my new voltage regulators which I've ordered, but in the meantime I connected up an older used 12v regulator to both TL and to the fet drivers, and I do see plenty of interference to the signal between them, connecting both up together in this way.
  I'll will separate the inputs today. As I already know that it will help, and that has been one of my signal issue problems at times, as the TL circuits and the driver circuits, work fine by themselves.
   I believe that I also have found the cause of overheating. It may have been the way that I had my yoke connections set up previously.
So, I'm trying a different yoke/grenade connection set up now, as Stalker has them, and will know more about it all soon.
As my fets only heat up when I connect them up to the yoke/grenade circuits, of course. But, that IS where the problem lies.

   Good luck with your new rig TK. It's good to see you posting your work here with us, again.
   Some of the old timers from here have been posting at OUR forum, but I don't see much positive results going on over there, or anywhere else, for that matter.
                               NickZ