Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

   Zalmoxis:
   Thank your for your honest reply. As without honesty, what do we have? What can we trust? Who can we trust?  Not much...
And, I choose to trust, first, and hope that I can be trusted, in my test results and replies, as well.
   
    I am impressed by your comments. Looks like you can understand both English as well as Russian. That's great, as I can't, only English and Spanish. Although I can understand some things in Russian, but not enough to fully grasp the whole meaning.
At least the Russian videos can be viewed, while trying to understanding at least what I can see.
   
   I am using the 37.5 meter grenade output coil, 18.75m inductor coil, two thick 37.5m aluminum ground lines going down into my water well.
   The series LC circuit capacitor is a single 0.47uf WIMA cap 1000v, and the parallel resonant capacitor is a single 0.1uf WIMA cap, I think it's also 1000v. That is what the TopRuslan schematic calls for.
  My inductor coil circuit is not using the jumper wire connected to the 28t yoke coil/grenade output coil and full bridge rectifier circuit, as is shown in some diagrams, any longer. But I also check to see if it makes any positive difference at times, anyway.
  My running frequencies are unknown at this time, as I've not paid any attention to them lately, and just tune for the best output and sync between my yoke/grenade induction circuits, and my Kacher circuit. I do look at the shape and quality of the wave forms, instead. And try to get them as clean as possible. Nor am I trying to use and tune to any known or fixed frequencies.
   I am currently using the TL494 circuit, and TC4420 fet drivers, similar to what Stalkers newest circuit is using. Although I combine 3 different schematics into one single PCB board from Ruslan, Stalker, and Pinoytech for the push-pull driver.
  My Kacher is the TopRuslan 7 type Kacher circuit, as I am trying to keep everything as simple as possible for now, while trying to obtain the proper sync between the circuits, at least until the device self runs. Further improvements will be done, afterward.

   I will post a video soon, but, I'm still waiting for a couple of components which I've ordered but have not received yet. So, I'm now using just a single 12v, 7Ah battery, as my input source, until I get some new 12v, and 15v voltage regulators to connect to my normal 24v, 10A input source.
  I hope this helps to understand my device, as I mentioned, new videos will be forthcoming soon.

[Hoppy]

   Hoppy:
   And your scepticisms have been repeated many times as well. Perhaps you can suggest a way that these things CAN be proven. Or do you not even trust witnesses going and seeing the devices and testing them, either?
What can you suggest? Are you willing to go and see for yourself? Would that do, or not.
 

Nick,

Tinsel has repeated many times what is required to get proper technical evaluation of a claimed self running device. If I were to go see for myself, I would almost certainly not be given the opportunity to properly examine a device, any more than Wesley or a.King21's team was with Kapa's devices. Any prior agreement in this respect would likely be worthless once I was on foreign territory. OK, handing over a nice big pre wedge might help but I'm not an investor, nor wish to be. So, the bottom line is until and if we ever see a self-running device that is commercially available, it all amounts to personal belief.

[apecore]

Good day all,

Nickz, since you've bin struggling with the push pull, as i had spend also simular hours and days with many frustation.....
But al this will bring good things at the end.

At this moment and i made a vid about it i'm using the lossless clamp as verpies once posted it.
The only remark i have on that schematic (maybe i have a wrong version) is that the clamp wires have to be connected reversed.
Power supply side (24V) goes to the diodes/caps and the other side goes to ground.

So with this config, there is no need of snubbers, big cooling radiators or fan's.
As you can see i m powering 3 x 100W bulbs, voltage accross my bulbs stays over 100V drawing 5-6Atotally and no heating problems.
Also important what also is being mentioned several time is the STAR ground point, this really helps to drain the HF etc.


https://youtu.be/7tO3iWucwSE

I hope it will bring you some progress.

[AlienGrey]

Good day all,

Nickz, since you've bin struggling with the push pull, as i had spend also simular hours and days with many frustation.....
But al this will bring good things at the end.

At this moment and i made a vid about it i'm using the lossless clamp as verpies once posted it.
The only remark i have on that schematic (maybe i have a wrong version) is that the clamp wires have to be connected reversed.
Power supply side (24V) goes to the diodes/caps and the other side goes to ground.

So with this config, there is no need of snubbers, big cooling radiators or fan's.
As you can see i m powering 3 x 100W bulbs, voltage accross my bulbs stays over 100V drawing 5-6Atotally and no heating problems.
Also important what also is being mentioned several time is the STAR ground point, this really helps to drain the HF etc.


https://youtu.be/7tO3iWucwSE

I hope it will bring you some progress.

All you need do is bifilar wind the yoke primary, I'm not so sure as you actually need a yoke as such testing I have found a decent toroid core will work just as well but expensive. To limit overshoots just limit them with 2 fast diodes, HV zener and feed back into the supply feed.

Another point of interest is the TL494 I have seen much argument about 'DEADTIME CONTROL'  by including this your wasting, time space, and resorces, it's just a duel control of the pulse width and pointless!

[itsu]

Hi Ape,

nice setup you have, but still some remarks if you don't mind.

You mention to have to connect the clamp wires reversed and that you might have the wrong schematic.
I doubt there are wrong versions around, so perhaps you can show which diagram you have followed.
The version i know of and which i have successfully followed was shown here:

http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?topic=1526.msg33035#msg33035    (use firefox to chrome to show the diagrams).

Another remark is about the used big electrolytic capacitors (i understand you use them as C3 and C4 in the above linked diagram)
They are not good performers at high frequencies, so they should be paralleled by some film like capacitors (i use 10nF silver mica caps)

Finally, the long wires used in your setup.
Both for going to the yoke and also between the MOSFET drivers and MOSFETs.
The extra wiring builds up stray capacitance and inductance causing unwanted oscillations etc.
Keep them as short as possible.
I personnaly fix the drivers to the MOSFET leads by soldering the drivers ground leads directly onto the MOSFET source lead.
Good luck with you experiments.

Itsu