Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[verpies]

The system can also work with grounded emitters (pins 9 and 10) and pullUPs on collectors with the signal to mosfet driver chips being taken from the collectors.

Yes, that is also possible, when "active low" pulses are desired, ...as with inverting gate drivers driving N-Ch MOSFETs.
The TL494 is a flexible chip.

[NickZ]

    Itsu:
   The Stalker diagram that you posted, is not the same as the connections on the Pinoytech set up for the TL494 part of the circuit.
  I had previously tried the Stalker way of doing it, also, but it produced the same problem as the previous TopRuslan 7 set up. Which is where Stalkers circuit idea came from, in any case. So... please look at the Pinoy's layout of the TL494 part of the blue PCB circuit that I just posted in my second to last post, but I removed it afterwards due to oversize.  As that is how I have the TL circuit part connected up.
   My resistors are all 1000 ohm even though the red painted strip is almost orange on two of them, they are are also 1k. I'm trying to stick with the schematics. I did previously follow Verpie's advice and had lower value resistors on. Like 460 ohm to ground, and 10 ohm to the fet drivers. But, I changed those to new resistors as in the Stalker diagram that you just posted.
  Yes, I'm still getting interference of some sort on my scope signals from the gates, not as bad, perhaps. But, it's hard to tell exactly.
  I connected the grounds all together now, as in the STAR formation, to my earth ground line. That helps a little, but not really well enough. The fets are staying cold, so far. But, I have no output at 3t or 168t coils, as yet. Yoke is connected to the fets, and to the 24v power supply. And the grounds are all connected together in the star formation to my earth ground now. Since the cause of the problem may be bad grounding between all the circuits. At least that is what I'm checking on now.

  Sorry TK last nights tests were a dud. No fireworks... 
  Well actually, I did have another filter cap blow in my face like a big firecracker. You would have enjoyed seeing that, maybe.
It was my fault though, as I placed the wrong value cap as a filter cap by accident, somehow. Been having lots of accidents, lately. Working late at night with low lighting levels.

[NickZ]

Of course because on that schematic diagram, pins 2&15 are connected to pin 14 and on my schematic they are not.
Yes, if taking the output signals from pins 9 and 10 then these pins must be grounded through smaller resistors.
I recommend these resistors to be around R=V_CC*10, where V_CC is the voltage between pin 7 and pins 8&11.

   On my second try,  I installed 470 ohms resistors to ground, along with 10 ohms to the fets, as to your suggestion. No improvement nor difference, the scope signals were getting messed up then also. So, I went to the Stalker way of doing it, but, again, but with similar results. Now I have 1k resistors to ground, and 10 ohms to the fets. But, I think that the problem lies in the duty cycle circuit. Something is not right there. Any ideas, other than making a whole new board,
   Verpies, your diagram may work better, but remember that most all of the self runners are using the TL494/TC4420 drivers system, connected in the way that I have it. Which does seam to be working slightly better now. But, still not right.
   My scope Tektronics 2205 model does not have the trigger function controls settings that you mention. As does the video you linked to of the 2225 20MHz scope. My signals are set to DC now, but it makes no difference nor improvements in the signals.

  Please don't be concerned about my scope being blurry. I'll fix it when I can, but, that is not my main concern at the moment.
It works for what I need it to do, for now. What I'd really rather do is buy a new scope, one that does do the math, and is less than 30 years old. But, that is also not possible for me at this time. Nor do I want to be left without any scope if the fix only makes it even worse, and not use able. Believe me, I can make it worse. 

  Why is pin #3 of the TC4420 left open on Stalker's diagram. Should mine be left open, as well? It's connected to pin 2 now.

   Check Ruslan's (all in one box) 4000w output circuit, below. Notice the TL494 and possible TC4420 on the board.
That is where Stalker and most all the other guys are getting their ideas from. From Oleg. Where is that guy, now?
He must of gotten paid to shut the F up, or not,  and maybe just threatened, if he keeps  it up, and making it public through Ruslan.
   Stalker's is a more simplified circuit design, but basically the same thing, Adrian, as well, etz... Oh, and the Pinoytech design is also based on Ruslan's schematic. So, I'm following the same path, with your help, of course.
   TopRuslan 7 schematic (below) which I originally started to replicate, as it was the easiest to follow and understand for me.
   

[TinselKoala]

Pin 3 of the 4420 is "NC" meaning no connection. It has no function in the chip. It is "probably" OK to wire it together with the Pin 2 logic input, but just to be sure, I'd recommend leaving it not connected to anything on your builds.

When in doubt, check the Data Sheet...   

[NickZ]

  Ok, thanks TK, I did check but the difference schematics show pin 3 connected to pin 2, like I have it. But, some don't. Any way, it looks like it can work both ways, open or connected. I'm just trying to figure out where any interference might be caused. 
As the Pinoytech circuit does include all kinds of filters, everywhere. And I suppose that they must be there for a purpose.
Or maybe overkill? As Stalker does not use as many filters, as well needing less of some of the other components, as compared to the Ruslan (Oleg) type of circuits.
  The tricky part is figuring out what is missing in possibly all the different versions, that is, the missing link that will allow for self running. And not just a properly running TL board and driver circuits, but everything in the whole device working in sync.

   Below is what Ruslan's push pull driver (previous to the first image, "all in one box"), showing what his voltage regulators, and filters looked like at that time.
  As well as his simple Kacher circuit, which I have replicated, and am now still using.