Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Void]

Void,
i did not measure the chokes resistance, but can do that when i try with schottky diodes, but as they do not get hot they seem OK.

Hi Itsu. No, that is not necessary. I was just basing my comment on your previous comment above:
"The inductor get the most hottest at about 60°C and climbing."

However, I think now maybe you meant the so called 'inductor winding' on the grenade, rather than the coils (inductors) in your non-dissipative snubbers...
In my case the coils at 24V seem to be only getting maybe just a little warm, around 25C to maybe 30C at the most
if running for a long time. I also have been monitoring component temperatures with an infrared thermometer.

I think I have solved the problem with using that 10uF cap at V+.
Either it was a bad capacitor, or it is not good to use a 10uF at the toroid center tap (V+) point.
I discovered the 10uF cap was also getting very hot. I removed it and tried a much
larger value electrolytic cap instead, and, so far, no further issues.


Welcome back Jeg. Long time no talk.
Yes, the Verpies toroid winding setup may be a good setup if someone wants to spend the time on it.
I think some people may prefer to keep their setups simpler where possible. I do anyway.
I was just posting a lot of details about my snubber tests because some people have been having overheating issues.
I have also posted suggestions on how to solve snubber overheating problems, so solutions are posted
here for anyone who is having snubber overheating issues. 

Yes, I found it interesting and useful learning about different types of snubber circuits.
I have already determined a snubber solution that should be workable for me, so I will be moving on to other things now.

All the best...

[NickZ]

How are you doing my friends? Nice to see the team again ready for new discoveries.

I just wonder, why don't you build Verpies lossless design to end this never ending push pull story? It is a rhetorical question. I know.  it is because you love to learn.. But for this specific job, i find Verpies design just what it needs. Lower consumption, no heating problems, clean drains. What else can someone may want?

All the best

   Jed:  Good to see you posting again.
   What we can also want, is for the device to self run. And neither you, apecore, nor Itsu have shown how well the lossless clamp designed by Verpies works to self run. As yet.
   Your last video made months ago did not show the Verpies clamp able to take out the spike, as far as I can remember.

   In any case, welcome back. Maybe you might want to join the snubber party, again.
   The important thing with these snubber ideas and tests, is that these snubbers should not get in their own way, and not affect the way that the Kacher/grenade sync works, in order to bring down the spikes. That is what else I would like to see.
   So, I hope that you can join us in this quest, once again.

[itsu]

Hi Jeg,

nice to see you are still around.


Void,

yes, i was meaning the inductor around the grenade that gets 60°C, not the 1mH chokes.
Good to see you have found the heating problem with the 10uF cap.


Nick,

try to collect the non dissipative snubber components, i think it might do the job for you too.



Itsu

[NickZ]

   Itsu:
   Thanks for the video.
   However, you are testing the heating of the snubber resistors and components using only a 40w bulb as a load.
   It would be better if you were to place a 400w load of bulbs on, instead. As I also don't have much heating when using only a small 50w bulb. But, not so when I use several 200w bulbs. 
   These snubbers should also be able to handle a full load of the higher wattage bulbs, and not just the smaller bulbs.

   And yes, my system does seam to work differently, as each bulb added RAISES the voltage.
   I will make the non dissapative snubber. I'll probably use 4 of my MUR1530 diodes for the application, and I may also have most of the caps other snubber components at hand, also.

   The most important thing, is not to loose the "effect". But, without a kacher, you won't know if this snubber system is really working, or not. As the wave forms and spike taming is only part of what is needed for these systems.

   apecore: How are you making out? Long time without any news from you.

   

[apecore]

   Itsu:
   Thanks for the video.
   However, you are testing the heating of the snubber resistors and components using only a 40w bulb as a load.
   It would be better if you were to place a 400w load of bulbs on, instead. As I also don't have much heating when using only a small 50w bulb. But, not so when I use several 200w

   The most important thing, is not to loose the "effect". But, without a kacher, you won't know if this snubber system is really working, or not. As the wave forms and spike taming is only part of what is needed for these systems.

   apecore: How are you making out? Long time without any news from you.

Hi Nick,
I m doing fine so now and then working at the bench.

I leave the snubber part for what it is... i don't have a heating/ destructive spike issue.
Altough i m not using the lossless Verpies clamp anymore or any snubber circuit i can lite 100w bulb almost full power without excess heating of FET's

From my own point of view i do believe that correct and using short wire leads for Pushpull/Yoke is most critical to manage bad ringing.
As i said... i will jump in at the moment  the selfrunner chapter starts.

By the way... good work on the snubbers...Void, Itsu and AG..i would say you delivered a lot of info and test results for a " snubber manual" .

Best regards