Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[r2fpl]

Don Smith theory

[Void]

Void:    I did not know that there was a resistor in the spark plug

Hi r2fpl. Well, I have read that some spark plugs have resistors. I guess if you short the
gap with a wire and measure the resistance with an ohmmeter you should be able
to tell if there is a resistor inside or not.
All the best...

[r2fpl]

Void: Yes,> MOhm , Thanks.

[GeoFusion]

   Geo:
   Have you connected the rest of your system up? Such as the 28t coil, tuning caps, rectifier, etz...

   Can you show us what your voltage readings are at the output bulbs, and your TL494 running frequency, Kacher's running frequency, etz...

   My device works a bit differently, and can light the big bulbs on just the induction circuits, no problem. The nearness of the yoke to the grenade coils makes no difference on my set up, and also the hand movement can't completely kill the output, either. Nor can the hand movements near the antenna make as big a difference, as on your device.
  Also, my voltages at the TL board (drains) go UP with each added bulb, also the amp draw goes up, while the light (lumin levels) at the bulbs goes down with each additional bulb. I'm mentioning this as a comparison, to try to understand what is happening and why these things are happening, and what to look for and tune to for the best results.

Hi Nick,

I still have to connect the rest, as I am testing various stages with the new mods.
After that i will add up the rest of the connection for sure .
Sure, I'll show some scope shots as well , freq and more.

I viewed your recent recording, yes, the Induction circuit has good driving power as how it should be, I could make mines also drive the same way but keep tuning it to the RM one, and try it with 1 60W bulb or even a 100 what and get it to the highest effect spot where it's
brighten because of the Kacher. till you can dim the light significantly with your hands, you know you are there .
You are on the right path Nick, the RM sounds are where these manifestations start to happen.
Keep up the work and we will keep on sharing

Cheerz~

[NickZ]

   Geo:
   Ok, now I understand why your device is showing such low output from just the induction circuits. You are not tuning it to it's best lumin levels, but are tuning it to the RM mode, instead. Which does not light the bulbs very bright by itself, without the Kacher.

   Last night I did the same thing, and tuned to the RM mode using a single 100w bulb, and was able to totally kill the bulb(s) using the hand movements, as you are showing. But, my output at the bulbs, even with the Kacher on is not high enough to power the feed back circuit. As the PS used used for the feed back loop needs to have a minimum of 85v to run it. And my PS does not get that high a voltage to it, yet, after the bulbs, to kick on the PS properly. As I only have about 60v at the bulbs.

   I notice that you do not readjust the TL494 controller trim pots after adding or removing bulbs. This normally needs to be done with every new bulb added. Otherwise you won't get the best frequency sweet spot, as each bulb added changes the running frequency, and so this new frequency needs to be readjusted with every new bulb.  At least that's what I see on my device.
 
   Also now, if the full 600w load of bulbs is on, the device sometimes won't start up depending on the set frequency, and one of the bulbs needs to be unscrewed to allow the system to start up. Once started the third bulb can be added. Just like Ruslan has also shown on his videos.
 
  Any way, I think that I'm getting closer to the way that this device is supposed to work. But, I wish that some of the other guys like Hoppy, apecore, Jed, etz... were also in the game. I'm glad to see that you Geo are still posting your results. Sometimes I feel like I'm the only one left.  But, I know that's not the case.