Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[AlienGrey]

Nick,

Its likely that the damage to your PSU was caused by disconnecting the output bulbs, resulting in a sudden increase in voltage input to the feedback PSU. Make sure you have a permanently connected load at all times when testing. The bulb wattage for the permanent load should be chosen to ensure that the voltage across it always stays within the rated input of the feedback PSU. The main supply battery will only present a load to the feedback PSU when its terminal voltage falls below the PSU output voltage.

It's usually only the self oscillating cheep'o devices from china that stall and blow the driver's (but a good few I have running here, and are as much as 7 or 8 years in the running, any duds I would put in my 'rubbish bin', but it's plain and simple over voltage on the input and or over heating or caps drying out! that destroys them, but always replace caps with 105 c variate.


Now let's look at the Henry Morey device !  come on   let's have a look at it ! 
this is a circuit of the device.

Any one see the similarity ? the magic looks to be the input frequency ? and sustaining it! How did he find it ?

https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/19/81/34/1a05c66cb4c369/US2460707.pdf

[Hoppy]

It's usually only the self oscillating cheep'o devices from china that stall and blow the driver's (but a good few I have running here are as much as 7 or 8 years running, I would put my 'rubbish bin' on a plain and simple over voltage on the input and or over heating or caps drying out!.....

Given that's Nick's PSU was new and given that its most unusual that these cheapo PSU's are used in these type of FE contraptions generating very high voltages, then its most likely that high voltage caused the damage. C'mon Alien, ruling out reverse polarity in Nick's case, other than over voltage, how else could the tops blow off both new caps and spew out their contents all over the PCB!

[NickZ]

   I think that what may have happened was that I was trying to get the feed back PS to produce a steady output signal at the green led indicator. And not just blinking, which means that the PS is NOT getting a proper input into it.
At first I had a hard time getting that to happen, with any load of bulbs on, except for a small 10w bulb. A 100w bulb would not allow the PS to obtain it's needed input.
But, then I found that the smaller 0.1uf WIMA cap at the grenade's output, had blown, and so I replaced it. At that point I was getting much higher output from the grenade. And following what Ruslan and other guys do when they start their device, I turned the device on, first, then afterwards I turned on the bulb load. This caused over 310v to go into the feed back PS, and you know the results.
  Why that does not happen to Ruslan's device, is still unknown to me. And why they do that, is also not clear to me. 
But, keeping in mind that my particular PS is only a 120v one, that may be the reason why this happened to me.
So, I advice the rest of the guys here to not buy that type of PS, and get the 110v-220v, instead. So, learn from my mistakes, and buy the right 220v PS. Even if you like me, live where 110v is the norm, and are using 120v bulbs.
I blew out 3 different bulbs, even before this happened, after I changed the WIMA 0.1uf cap, and before I killed the PS.
I am glad to be able to fix the PS, in any case. Which I had brought to me from the US, and which are not available locally here.

[Hoppy]

Nick,

Ruslan and the other guys may have used a 240V PSU which use caps with a higher voltage rating, typically 400V. Experimenting with this type of device calls for careful attention to component voltage ratings. However, even with a 240V PSU, its unlikely that you will be able to drive it with the heavy device bulb loading you require, without the PSU becoming under voltaged when looped back to the main battery. As we have established, there is much missing from the information so far posted in the schematics etc for a self-runner.

[NickZ]

    Hoppy:
   The 240v caps that I replaced on my PS came out of my previous 120v- 240v PS.  They are the same value caps that came on my 120v PS. The 240v unit's caps are not higher in value, but are the same value.

  Itsu:  How is it possible to see both the HV and the grenade output BOTH on the same scope setting?
First image of Stalker's scope shot.
  Is this something that I can do on my scope? Or not?
  This is what I can do on my scope. Second image.
  I understand that Stalker is using a controllable Kacher circuit, and I am using the simple Kacher circuit.
But, I'd like to be able to see both HV, and grenade outputs, (to match both frequencies at the same time). Which I have not been able to do, like Stalker is showing.