Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

  My concern for the moment is to obtain some useable results even when using only 12v.
Once I get the system running cooler, I'll go for higher input, as I don't want to blow the fets, just yet.
I can even light a 100 watt bulb dimly on only 12v, 500 mAs, along with a 15w CFL at the same time.  It's fun to play around without the risk of everything going up in smoke.
Best part is that only the HV coil shocks, but nothing else.

  Hoppy, you mentioned that I should not be having heating of the input rails. So, what happens when you connect your 1000 watt halogen bulb up to the output of your circuit? Everything still running cool?  Of course, there may not be any heating noticed when running only the 40 watt bulb. But on 1000 watt bulb?
 

[magpwr]

hi everyone,

There is some similarities between

Geofusion -Igor's TROS system Mod part 3 With water, CFL's and Motor
-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FD8FcUKo-tY
&
Igor Moroz -radiant-energy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YqZ2baSP64

These are the only 2 videos which i know in english/russian which a mains bulb\bulb can be lit using only "1" bulb contact and other contact to the hand without shocking it's user.
We all know that human body is a poor conductor compared to metal.

It seems that the "Telsa coil" is responsible for this "interesting effect" lighting a bulb with one contact.
But Geofusion version does contain a "pickup coil" to bridge rectifier to motor as well.The only thing amiss there  was no caps after the bridge to smoothen/increase the output power.

If anyone recall there was a outdoor photo posted related to kapanadze device in a picnic box where there is a "metal plate" quite similar to Geofusion video  since he is using a large metal table,
I can't recall now from kapanadze photo if it was at side of box or under the box which was tilted to reveal metal.


--------------------------
2 days ago i have made an interesting discovery by

combining a enclosed spark gap from ebay GAS DISCHARGE TUBE - SPARK GAP LITTELFUSE CG21000L 10A 1KV,1 watt HV flyback transformer ultra simple circuit design http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoUivNtYFIA  with my previously assembled SR193 device which was a failure maybe because i don't live on a grounded property to actually use the ground.

By running wires through the SR193 which contain couple of ferrite TOROID in the middle as the core.I was able to intensify the spark produced for example default purple spark can become either blue 'hv" or reddish "current".The best part the current draw on battery remain the same at around 280mA for 1xLi-ion battery 3.9volts.

More work is needs to be done.I will release video with schematic to simplify understanding once i have improve on the power of the spark to red/orange. 

[Hoppy]

 
  Hoppy, you mentioned that I should not be having heating of the input rails. So, what happens when you connect your 1000 watt halogen bulb up to the output of your circuit? Everything still running cool?  Of course, there may not be any heating noticed when running only the 40 watt bulb. But on 1000 watt bulb?

Assuming your supply conductors are of sufficient gauge to carry the current drawn by the load, then there should be no appreciable heating of the conductors or at the battery terminals. A 1000W bulb will of course result in more heating of the mosfets, which is why the mosfets must have adequate heat sinking. As I commented in a previous post, the Mazillii will draw a high current when efficiently driving heavy loads, such as a number of 100W bulbs or a 1000W halogen bulb, assuming of course the supply battery has sufficient capacity and condition to supply that current.

[NickZ]

  Yes, we know that the Mazilli crt will draw lots of current, but the question is do your battery connections heat up, on 1000w load, or not.
   Geo has mentioned fried fets when not using the braid going from the battery to the circuit. Also placing the cooper strips, for additional cooling, if this were not needed, he wouldn't be doing that.

[Hoppy]

  Yes, we know that the Mazilli crt will draw lots of current, but the question is do your battery connections heat up, on 1000w load, or not.
   Geo has mentioned fried fets when not using the braid going from the battery to the circuit. Also placing the cooper strips, for additional cooling, if this were not needed, he wouldn't be doing that.

Nick,

My battery terminals are formed of lead and heavy duty like my battery and my supply wires are of sufficient gauge and properly terminated to carry the current drawn by the 1000W halogen bulb, so no, I have no heating of the battery terminals whilst lighting the bulb.