Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

  Gyula:
  Your suggestions are well taken. I'll be more informative, in the future.
   I removed a single turn from the center tap of the flyback coil, (one turn from each side). And connected the flyback up as before. The results was that another (second one, now) single BMR diode, popped after a few seconds running. So, there must still be too much voltage going to the rectifier. Remember that I can't properly read the AC output from the coil on my meter. 
  I also removed the flyback and replaced it with the smaller yoke core that I had on previously. But, I'm out of more diodes, until I look through my junk pile inventory, again. This second yoke core does not put out as much power as the flyback does, at least not with the current windings, so it may work better at keeping the heat down on the rectifier.  I'll adjust the AC output to lower voltage levels. As it looks like the rectifier is one of the bottle-necks in the feed back loop.  The cap that I'm using after the rectifier for the moment was a 200v 400uf electrolytic.
   I did find a set of 4 fairchild DH47Ah DFP 8896, which may be diodes, or something else. I can't find the info on them yet, but they look similar to the diodes.
Edit: Ok, I just found the info on the DFP 8896, they're mosfets instead, so, I'll keep looking for more diodes.
 
                      NickZ
 

[corry]

the resonator coil needs to be tuned by sliding and varying cap. if you have  lcr meter then its very easy to tune primary to secondary. and if you dont have lcr meter then sliding coils is onluy option but it needs patience till your frequency matches. tesla didnt have lcr meter but He tuned very effectively. so do not despair at one spot you will find the match of frequency and thats the point of overunity.

i didnt have lcr meter i tuned by hit and trial and it took me days before i got the result.

chubinidze ,dunfasto, zilano and few others have replicated sr193 and fabrice andre and don smith and even chinese replicator  did replication they had faced same problem of tunning as you are facing now but they did not loose patience and kept on working.

00

This can serve? http://www.rmcybernetics.com/projects/DIY_Devices/homemade_tesla_coil_tuner.htm

[gyulasun]

Hi NickZ,

Say you have 25 turns for your output coil and say the output AC peak voltage is 250V, then a single turn gives as 250/25=10 V voltage. So if you remove say 2 turns then the ouput amplitude reduces from 250 to 230 V only.  This would burn the lower voltage diode equally "well".

Okay on the 200V 400 uF cap, sounds good enough voltage wise that may not get hot easily, especially if you keep a certain load on it.  And if you check the DC voltage across it with a voltmeter, you can continuosly keep an eye on that limit.

Yes the FDP8896 (not DFP) is low voltage high current  power MOSFET. 

Gyula

[NickZ]

   Gyula:
   Although I don't have more of the higher voltage rectifier diodes like the two that burnt out, I do have a couple of the UF 306 749v diodes. I'll give them a try tomorrow.

  To clarify, the bigger main yoke primary white wire coil, has 6 turns on each side of the center, and 21 turns on its secondary red wire.  The flyback core is connected in parallel to the yoke core's secondary coil output, and so are all the bulbs.
  What I removed a turn on each side of, was the center tap side of the flyback, not on the yoke. So, now the flyback has 8 turns total, 4 on each side (center tap) side, instead of 10 turns, it had previously.
 
  I also have several IN 5408 diodes, as well, if needed. And I also have several electrolytic capacitors available such as:
            A single 200v 470uf,  a single 400v 200uf, a single 560v 150 uf, a single 160v 100uf, a single 25v 2200uf, and 25v 2200uf, and some others also. Which do you think would work best?

I'll be doing more tests tomorrow. I'll try to reduce some more turns on the flyback as I think that it will be needed, as the DC output voltage may still be too high. I'll look for a 12v bulb to load the feed back loop with.
I wish that I could read that voltage with the meter, but, I can't trust what my volt meter is reading.

  NickZ

[gyulasun]

Hi NickZ,

Thanks for the further detailed info on the transformers.  Now think this over:
When you have a (say) 10 turn primary and (say) a 20 turn secondary coil on a core and you drive the primary, the turn ratio is 10:20 (viewing from primary to secondary direction) and your transformer steps up 2 times the input voltage  i.e.  if you input (say) 10V AC, the secondary output is 20V, right?

Now if you reduce the number of turns at the primary to say 8 turns and the secondary stays 20 turns, the step up ratio increases to 20/8=2.5 times from the earlier ratio of 20/10=2 times.
So when you removed 1+1 turns from the primary, you effectively increased the output voltage across the red wire coil of the flyback core! (i.e. you were giving an even higher "burning bang" to your diodes)

So you may wish to restore the original number of turns for the primary white wire of the flyback core and reduce the number of turns at either the secondary red wire of this core or at the secondary output (also red wire) of the yoke core, both methods will decrease the output voltage amplitude across the red coil of the flyback core.
(Alternatively, you may increase the number of turns for (the center tapped) primary input coil on the flyback core, this will also reduce the output voltage in the red coil of this flyback core.)

Because you may have found so far the turns ratio on the yoke core is okay now,  do not change it, and just reduce the secondary coil (red wire) of the flyback core. If this latter now has 10 turns, then you may wish to make a tap at its 3rd and its 6th turn too.

Regarding your UF306 type diodes, they sound good with their 600V peak reverse voltage and 3 Amper current ratings, they are labeled as high speed switching diodes. The 1N5408 types are for 50/60 Hz, not ok for the several kHz AC power you are dealing with,  so try to avoid using them.  (Of course you can test them to see how they warm up, they have 1000V and 3A ratings.)

It would be good if you had 4 pieces from the UF306 to make a diode bridge. If you have only two such diodes, then you either make a center tap for the red coil on the flyback core and build the rectifier circuit with two diodes SeaMonkey showed (no need for reducing the turns in this case because you have 600V diodes) or you build the voltage doubler I showed with the two diodes and start with a tap on the red wire at say 6th turn. And when you see no heat or only a little, under load, on the diodes and no heat on the capacitor,  then you may use the full 10 turn of the red coil and also attempt to loop back if the heat issue is still ok.

When looping back, it is a good idea to use a few Ohm current limiting power resistor or a light bulb in series with the feedback diode, this can help to save the diode if the feedback current is too high. And this current can be high if the rectified and puffered output DC level from red coil of the flyback core is much higher than your main input DC voltage from the 12V battery. This is where a simple DC voltage meter could also help you, to explore in advance what the DC level is after the rectification and this consider the voltage difference between the input-output you are going to connect. 

Regarding your capacitors as listed, if you start with a tap at (say) the 3rd turn only as the output from the flyback core, then you may try to use first the 200V 470 uF with a load across it of course (I say the 200V cap first because last time you found it did not get heated up but the diodes did.)
The best would be to monitor the DC level across the cap,  do you have a normal DC voltage meter either digital or analog? You mean you abused the meters and this is why you cannot trust them? You can check a DC voltmeter with a 9V or 12V battery in the 20V and then in 200V range, right? IF okay, then you can trust in the DC level across a 470uF puffer cap too, this latter can give enough filtering for the remains of the AC after the full wave rectification.

Gyula