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Overunity Machines Forum



Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

Started by 27Bubba, September 18, 2012, 02:17:22 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 348 Guests are viewing this topic.

itsu

Quote from: Hoppy on November 18, 2014, 02:00:15 PM
Nick,

Try reversing the primary coil connections. What is the code of the transistor you are using?

Good advice, also when using a common mode choke in the plus/minus leads like in the diagram below, you might want to bypass
the minus lead to see if that will work.  Without the bypass mine won't run!

And, when running from a battery, you might want to ground the minus lead to see if that improve things.

Regards Itsu

Hoppy

Quote from: itsu on November 18, 2014, 04:16:27 PM
Good advice, also when using a common mode choke in the plus/minus leads like in the diagram below, you might want to bypass
the minus lead to see if that will work.  Without the bypass mine won't run!

And, when running from a battery, you might want to ground the minus lead to see if that improve things.

Regards Itsu

The choke minus leads can also be reversed to get the Kacher working.

I have now firmly established that any fluctuations in the brightness of the bulb whilst bringing a hand close to the antenna is due primarily to increased loading on the supply lines and not due to direct interaction between the HV field of the Kacher and the grenade coil / inductor coils. The Kacher can draw a heavy current when the antenna is capacitively loaded.

itsu

Quote from: Hoppy on November 18, 2014, 09:54:09 AM
Jeg & all,

Since I made the last post, I have found that the Kacher biasing is quite critical. I've now increased resistance from base to ground to 470R. I was finding that with 69R, transients were being setup which caused instability with the push-pull PWM, causing one IGBT to get much hotter than the other. Changing the resistor value to 470R allows both IGBT's to run warm, not hot. I have around 2K between base and supply rail. Total current draw is now between 5.9A and 6.5A while the bulb is flashing. The antenna has become very sensitive to hand capacitance, causing the bulb to flash like seen on URFA's video. I'm not sure whether this is all going in the right direction but the antenna does now seem to be interacting strongly the inductor / grenade coils.

Edit: I have also found that my duty cycle is too high, so this is the reason one IGBT was getting much hotter than the other. There is always something that catches one out!

You can say that again, i have groups of 3 pulses on the collector compared to your nice 1 pulse, so collector pulses frequency shows 5MHz, Kacher
running frequency 1.685MHz.

Varying the 10K pot from the plus rail does NOT change the frequency, it does has some influence on the 3 pulse group as i can manage it to
flip into 2 group pulses, but not further as then the Kacher stops.

Moving the primary coil along the secondary length also has some influence on the shape and amplitude of the collector pulses, but never did i find a
single pulse frequency signal which matched the real Kacher output signal  :o  (not with the antenna attached that is).

Received a 24V PSU, so doing some tests with that.....


QuoteThe choke minus leads can also be reversed to get the Kacher working.

I have now firmly established that any fluctuations in the brightness of the bulb whilst bringing a hand close to the antenna is due primarily to increased loading on the supply lines and not due to direct interaction between the HV field of the Kacher and the grenade coil / inductor coils. The Kacher can draw a heavy current when the antenna is capacitively loaded.

Good to know for both items, thanks

Regards Itsu




GeoFusion

Hi guyz :)

Check it out. Ruslan's latest.
He wanted to show something different and basically the setup is working just like what VASMUS did.

Without Bifilar Inductor :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPkHNq6Wji0

Kacher must be in a good kilovolt range in order to able to do this with good caps.
Capture the radiant.

Cheerz~

John.K1

I was just about to inform you too :)   And now you can or you do not need to agree but I believe his second video works on the principle as in this video  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTK91lHBPIs   (skip that bullshits at the start ) . I have done some experiments before and it works pretty well. With some 12V impulses I was able to charge cap to HV and brightly discharge it to my 220V bulb.  The charging to the level to lit the bulb pretty much depends on the coil used+ frequency. It took me around 1.5 - 3s, which is quite slow. Unfortunately I fried my Arduino controller as I used it to switch between pulsar and Load. After I stopped to experiment with that.  Using HV Tesla coil might make a difference and I might to go back to try to experiment with that.
I believe this is more easier way to get free energy as you can see the result by simple experiments and less hassle with all that un-clear stuff around :) As we can see Ruslan re-used his granade coil for this purpose (even if is not very ideal ) - so easy to switch :)