Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Khwartz]

The way to loop it is by setting up a dual rail, run the circuit from one side an power out from the other.

Surely, Dave45. But looks could need a kind of "insulation" between the output and the input while connected for loop, would be just because otherwise THE INPUT COULD HAVE A TENDENCY TO FEED THE OUTPUT DIRECTLY! So no more sending its energy in the "primary circuit" but directly in the "secondary" circuit or the last stage, the output indeed.

I mind: does anybody has realised that! Lol

BTW, the solution may be to work with DC output and diodes to feed DC input, to only allow energy to come from output to feed back input, and not at all the other way.

What do you think?

[Khwartz]

  I'll put a 100 watt bulb next to my set up when I take another picture, as a comparison.
But, there is one thing that I wanted to mention... The best lumin levels are noticed when running just a single 100 watt bulb. Each additional bulb added, only drops the light output, instead of raising it, as they are only sharing the same amount of output power provided by the source battery. This may be due to my poor old battery not being able to provide enough amps for this purpose, or maybe not.
I'm still not done tuning the yoke core, or finding the best tuning caps etz...

Dear NickZ, i.m.o quite important that you insist that the overal lighting looks to stay the same.

For your old old battery, sorry if my my question is low privacy, but is that because you can't afford for a better one? If so, how it would cost in your country? to see if it is if my means to help you financially.

Cheers.

[Hoppy]

I was simply pointing out that I agree that you cannot trust batteries.
However if the batteries were replaced by a cap bank  and you had "ou" then the cap bank would rise in volts.
And vice versa of course.
That's the ultimate test of free energy.

Agreed. Thanks.

[Hoppy]

  I'll put a 100 watt bulb next to my set up when I take another picture, as a comparison.
But, there is one thing that I wanted to mention... The best lumin levels are noticed when running just a single 100 watt bulb. Each additional bulb added, only drops the light output, instead of raising it, as they are only sharing the same amount of output power provided by the source battery. This may be due to my poor old battery not being able to provide enough amps for this purpose, or maybe not.
I'm still not done tuning the yoke core, or finding the best tuning caps etz...

Nick,

Yes, the lamps are sharing current, so by just increasing the battery size will still result in a reduced brightness as additional lamps are added. Maximum brightness will be seen when the bulb(s) impedance is matched to the device. A bigger capacity battery should help to some extent as its terminal voltage should drop less when supplying the same load, dependent on battery condition. If your small battery is dropping too much voltage, your mosfets may not switch efficiently. Be aware that lamps can draw a heavy current, so make sure you have a fuse in-line with your battery for safety. I use a 20A fuse with a 12V battery supply. You should certainly be looking for a bigger battery when running 100W rated lamps.

[Hoppy]

Understand. Thanks for having specified, dear Hoppy.

What about only use of caps as mean for storage of the electrical energy for our circuits? Verpies objected me the voltage is not constant but for a battery it is the same, except that in case of caps we know exactly the curve of discharge so it is much much more accurate for calculation of the energy stored in any time; i.m.o.. And with large enough caps banks and high enough voltage, the drop in voltage may be maintained very low, even increasing if functioning close loop. What do you think?

Hi Khwartz,

There are many vagaries with batteries that can and do mislead experimenters into thinking that their systems are running OU. The most misleading is when a battery appears to charge whilst on-load. Caps offer a more reliable and measurable energy storage medium.