Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Hoppy]

  Hoppy:
 
  Try to add a filter cap after your rectifier, to see what it does when connected to the input. 
  Also try a Pc backup transformer to down step the voltage that goes to feed back the battery.  Those are the only two ways that I've seen that MAY work.

Nick,

I tried the transformer earlier and I get a nice 110V across the lamp and trafo input and around 55V open circuit on the trafo output (step-down). However, when rectified, smoothed and connected across the battery, the input current actually rises a few hundredth's of an amp and the voltage across the smoothing cap drops to zero. The transformer is being shunted by the much lower resistance of the lamp, so very little current is being drawn by the transformer and its battery load. I've tried this with several FE type setups in the past and its clearly not a way forward to improved system efficiency let alone self-running!

I have to clear my bench for a work project next week but will keep the replication intact and return to it if Geo comes up with a loop back solution.

[Hoppy]

  Hoppy:
   
  Each of the additional tuning caps provide for a higher voltage output reading, possibly at the expense of the current output levels. But just how many of those caps need to be added to both side of the flyback to see higher resonance and total output, is the question. This kind of tuning may need to be done while a 500+ load is connected.

Nick,

You can tune to a load of your choice and do not have to have a 500W plus load.

[NickZ]

  Ok, thanks Hoppy. I understand...

  Well, I reversed the flyback secondary, but it didn't make a whole lot of difference. 
  Adding a couple of tuning caps to the air core, and some flyback ferrite pieces to the inside the pvc pipe, did not give me amazing results, either. But, the bulb will hardly light without the single piece of ferrite, which is what makes it work best. Adding more ferrite pieces only decreases the output.
  My meter is connected at the bulb, and it is tapped to the right, which is on the 1000v AC setting. If that is to be trusted (I doubt it).
  The 25 watt bulb is barely lit, (about 20%, or so), 100w bulbs will not light. Adding more ferrite to the pipe does not improve performance. Just a single piece is working best, for now.
  I'll continue tuning, after a couple more beers...  May not help, but doesn't hurt either.
  Here's a pic, any suggestions are welcome.

[Hoppy]

 
Nick,

You may have the two halves your ferrite trafo primary in anti-phase. A photo of the underside of the primary winding will enable me to determine this.

[Khwartz]

.../...

A load current reading of 7.8A was taken using a 0.1R shunt resistor in series with the 24V battery. The no-load current was 5.1A.

It is straightforward to measure the current using a 'shunt' resistor simply by measuring the voltage across the resistor and using Ohms law to calculate the current. A scope is not essential for this measurement as the waveform is not very complex and can be measured fairly accurately using a DVM. I tried a Fluke DVM and a cheapo DVM and both gave very close readings to the scope measurement, as did my Fluke DC clamp meter directly reading the current. The shunt resistor can either be obtained as a single 0.1R (either 1% or 5% tolerance & min 10W) power resistor or made-up using 10 x 1R (min 1W) resistors connected in parallel. The resistor(s) should ideally be non-inductive types but for measuring this setup where we do not need high accuracy, ordinary ceramic type power resistors can be used. The shunt resistor and DVM can be permanently connected whilst experimenting so that measurements can be seen at a glance whilst connecting different loads and coil arrangements.

It will be clearly seen from this exercise that adding a load to the output winding will increase the current drawn from the battery.

In regards to looping-back. If the AC terminals of a full wave rectifier is connected across the secondary of the ferrite trafo and FWBR pos and neg connected across battery, then the current rises by 5A and the bulb reduces in brightness. If the FWBR is connected across the load, then the current reduces to 4.5A and the bulb extinguishes.

It is so glad to see there are experimenters who have true rationlity and honesty in there measurements, I would dream guys like you could join me on the enhancement of the Richard Vialle's Autogen ♡♡♡♡♡♡♡♡