Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Jeg]

Nice Job Void, well done! I am thinking to buy such a module these days. When this will be done, i 'll post some pics of its inside to see all together if Mag's idea is possible!

[Void]

If you are replacing the input stage FWBR with fast diodes, please check the following components as they are probably designed to block unwanted noise, i.e. filter stage that might need adjustment (i.e. diff cap and/or inductor).

Hi starcruiser. Yeah, that sounds like it could be more trouble than it is worth, if there are
low pass filtering components right at the input. 

Jeg's idea of stepping down the voltage using a step down transformer could work
if you wound the step down transformer on a large torroid core or yoke core. You
may be drawing as much as 6 or 7 Amps, so you would need a hefty ferrite torroid core.
Ruslan's approach of converting to DC right at the output of the bifilar coil might be
a simpler solution if you don't want to mess around too much.
All the best...

[GeoFusion]

Hi guyz,

Take a look. 
This is what I have and anothor from 115V / 230V ac to 12V 5amps .

Enjoy

[NickZ]

  Ok, now I get it...  What confused me was the use of the word INVERTER, as it is NOT and inverter, but a 110v-220v to 12v down stepping power supply, instead. As Hoppy had mentioned.
So, lets not use the word "inverter", as it's a misnomer.

  The $30 PSU that was linked to is only a 5 amp unit, and we probably need a 12 to 20 amp one, instead. Like Geos 16amp PSU, or similar.

  I will however use my already wound flyback to rectifier diodes/capacitor set up to convert the 3 combined frequencies at the bulb output location, to a useable 12v dc output source, and send that back to the input side of my device.
If that doesn't work, then I'll have to obtain the right power supply, such as the one that Geo has.
  I've already tested the above set up previously, and it works, but not with enough power for the device to self run when I tried it.
It needed about 10 amps, or so. But, I'll give it another go at it though.
 

[Void]

The $30 PSU that was linked to is only a 5 amp unit, and we probably need a 12 to 20 amp one, instead. Like Geos 16amp PSU, or similar.

Hi Nickz. If you mean the power supply I linked to on EBay, which appears to be the same model that Ruslan is using (S-120-12),
as I mentioned in my comment above it is rated at 10 amps maximum output current. This is apparently sufficient to self
run Ruslan's last few devices. If it is rated at 10 Amps max, and the circuit is drawing say 6 or 7 amps, the power supply
might well run quite hot. A switch mode power supply with a higher output current rating should run cooler. I believe when
you use the TL494 to drive the push pull inverter and get everything working right (over unity), I think Ruslan said that it
shouldn't pull more than about 6 amps and maybe less to power the driver circuits. This would seem to indicate that if you
are getting over unity that it is taking some load off of the inverter driver circuit, which Ruslan also mentioned in his comments.
All the best...