Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Jeg]

Excellent video Jeg. Thanks for showing the two meters working together.

As you say in the video, it is important to initially ensure that the Kacher can be seen to light the bulb without the mosfet oscillator running.

Thanks Hoppy.
I don't know if you notice it, but when mosfets are working the impact of katcher is stronger at the output bulb. See 24V without mosfets, and 24V with mosfets. The difference when I press katcher's button is much noticeable in terms of brightness.

[Hoppy]

Thanks Hoppy.
I don't know if you notice it, but when mosfets are working the impact of katcher is stronger at the output bulb. See 24V without mosfets, and 24V with mosfets. The difference when I press katcher's button is much noticeable in terms of brightness.

Yes, its a bit like mine. If my Kacher is off, I get no bulb lit, even with the mosfets. With the Kacher switched on at 24V, I get full bulb brightness. Its a clean switching.

[Void]

I don't know if you notice it, but when mosfets are working the impact of katcher is stronger at the output bulb. See 24V without mosfets, and 24V with mosfets. The difference when I press katcher's button is much noticeable in terms of brightness.

Nice video Jeg. The bulb will light brighter with higher kacher drive voltages,
but you are pulling some serious current into your kacher driver to do so.
I saw about 2A at 24V, about 3A at 36V, and your ammeter was pegged at 48V,
so the current was somewhere above 6A it seems. 6+A x 48V = 288W at least.
Your PWM driver is drawing about 6A x 24V = 144W.
That's a lot of input power consumption. I personally don't think this is what Ruslan is doing.
He may actually be running the kacher only at 24V. My suggestion would be to try to find a
kacher frequency (running the kacher at 24V) that causes the PWM input current to drop
quite a lot. If you can find such a frequency, then you may well hit the jackpot.
All the best...

[a.king21]

I would rather put it that the demonstrated device is a fake but that he intended it as a decoy. Everything about its operation was shouting fake to me. As you rightly say, anyone can charge a small cap up to high voltage. This in itself proved nothing. The lamps he kicked under the table never pulsed or flashed once and to top it all, the meter was clearly showing that the supply feeding the HV generator was dropping like it was battery backed.

I must admit that I cannot explain why my bulb can be switched from full brightness to cleanly off, just by moving my hand towards the Kacher antenna. The current draw does drop when the bulb extinguishes, so this is to be expected but what is causing the sudden switching? My initial thought is that it is caused by the kacher field being induced into the induction coil which in turn was working anti-phase with the Grenade coil. However, reversing the inductor leads has no effect. I can even remove the tuning caps from the inductor / 3-wire yoke circuit and earth this side of the inductor coil straight to the main ground point and the effect is the same. Disconnecting the inductor lead will extinguish the bulb but placing just a 100pF capacitor between the lead and ground will fully light the bulb with maximum voltage across it. Can anyone offer an explanation for this?

If you replace the 100pf capacitor with an incandescent bulb, the effect should be the same, if what I am thinking is correct. Could you try that please?

[Hoppy]

If you replace the 100pf capacitor with an incandescent bulb, the effect should be the same, if what I am thinking is correct. Could you try that please?

Yes, I did try that and it is the same. In fact I tried all sorts of things in the circuit. A 39R resistor will turn on the bulb at full brightness but a 100R resistor will not turn it on at all!