Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[itsu]

Nick,   i still think the kacher and Grenade/ground should resonate at the same frequency (eg 1.7Mhz), but the inductor (which is the coil around the grenade)
suppose to resonate in the KHz range (27, 24, 15 what ever) which is 1/60th, 1/50th, 1/100th of the kacher/grenade resonance and is set by the wima caps.
I guess that is what i wanted to say in that quote.

The problem is, what frequency, thus what relationship is the correct one?

Yes, the less turns, the higher the frequency, but the lower the voltage, so perhaps therefor the latest video's show an inductor resonance of 15Khz.
Having a 1:100 relationship with the kacher means then 1.5Mhz for the kacher which is doable while maintaining some voltage.
You might want to change the kacher primary number of turns and/or position (bottom / middle etc.) compared to the secondary to regain some voltage.
I did wound my kacher "all the way" with spacing inbetween the wires.

I am sure, by now, you must be able to figure out the resonance frequency of the kacher when looking at the scope.



Regards Itsu

[Tomtech29]

I suppose it could be that Tesla was powered by an inverter found the moment where you see the signal on the oscilloscope lower
What also interesting.
good luck.

[NickZ]

  Itsu:
  Although I don't see any improvement yet towards brighter bulbs at the output using this new Kacher secondary, there are some important differences. First of all the Kacher no longer needs or is benefited by the use of ferite inside of the core, as before.
And second, the ferite pieces inside of the grenade, also don't act like they did before, and don't seam to help much any more.
  So, once I removed the ferite from the Kacher former pipe, the output increased, so did the output, and intensity of sparks.
So, no ferite needed anywhere now, except for the yoke core, of course.
  Another difference is that if I short out one of my chokes, as Hoppy had suggested previously, not much happens now. When before the output was noticeably higher. So, as this choke happens to like to heat up, I'll remove it, as it may no longer be needed.
  I realize now that it is extremely important to properly space the winding on the Kacher secondary, and I'll try to improve on that, next, and possibly spray some clear varnish on top of the windings, so they won't move around as they are doing now.
 
  Edit: I've almost obtain the same brightness from a CFL now, as I had previously. Just tuning away....
 
  I wonder if the 1:100, or 1:50, frequency ratios etz,  are just different resonant points,  some are higher peaks, with stronger output, than others. They may all work to some degree.

[Thaelin]

@ itsu and NickZ
   
   As I was into ham radio I understand what itsu is stating about the spacing of the winding of a coil. In the early ARRL manuals its plainly states that it brings up the Q or goodness of the coil. This brings down the attenuation of the signal passed through it. Hence the reason for high Q in the final tank circuit. 
   They say to space the coil winds by the diameter of the wire being used for best results.

[Dog-One]

   As I was into ham radio I understand what itsu is stating about the spacing of the winding of a coil. In the early ARRL manuals its plainly states that it brings up the Q or goodness of the coil. This brings down the attenuation of the signal passed through it. Hence the reason for high Q in the final tank circuit. 
   They say to space the coil winds by the diameter of the wire being used for best results.

We also have an engineering issue to consider here.  We want a high Q, but not too high, because at a very high Q, the frequency must be spot-on in order for the coil to respond as intended.  Like all devices, there is a sweet spot we are shooting for and in this application, high voltage at the correct frequency is paramount.  This along with tunability and stability should get the job done.

I'm thinking if one were to wind this coil with the correct gauge wire and at the same time use a spool of the correct thickness plastic fishing wire for the separation, this should be easily repeatable so anyone can do it right the first time.