Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[NickZ]

  Ok, I'll look into borrowing a SG and use my scope probe with twin clip leads on it. I also do have some big fat resistors that came with the scope, so I imagine that those resistors are for use with the twin clip leads.

  Hoppy: I'm waiting for you to show us how well the push-pull PWM circuit that you are suggesting works for you, first.
   I'm still looking to "ditch" the Mazilli and replace it with something commercially built and more controlable, but, I'm doing what I can for now. And the Mazilli circuit is working fairly well for now, and it's not overheating like before.

  Itsu: You mentioned:
# changing the frequency of the mazilla (to match the present (hidden) resonance frequency of the inductor, 3-turn coil 0.47uF cap)   or by
# changing the frequency of the inductor, 3-turn coil, 0.47uF cap (to match the present (known) resonance frequency of the mazilla).

The first you do by using your magnet on the yoke and/or by adding/removing caps on the mazilla circuit.
The second you do by adding more caps to the 0.47uF caps parallel (more capacitance) or in series (less capacitance) but be aware of the possible high voltage there.
                                                     end quote.

  I've already done that, and those were the results, so far, with the caps that I have on hand. However, I still have only the original 12, 12, turns on the grenade inductor coil, from before, when it was running on 12v, but now is at 24v. 
So, that inductor coil may need to be changed. To what?
  Another thing is that my Kacher circuit was working much better at lower frequencies. Showing a nice 3mm steam, and stinging felt from the HV.  Now it only gives a 1mm spark, and no stinging felt. Light output from a near by CFL was also stronger, at lower frequencies.


 

[Hoppy]

  Ok, I'll look into borrowing a SG and use my scope probe with twin clip leads on it. I also do have some big fat resistors that came with the scope, so I imagine that those resistors are for use with the twin clip leads.

  Hoppy: I'm waiting for you to show us how well the push-pull PWM circuit that you are suggesting works for you, first.
   I'm still looking to "ditch" the Mazilli and replace it with something commercially built and more controlable, but, I'm doing what I can for now. And the Mazilli circuit is working fairly well for now, and it's not overheating like before.

Nick,

As I mentioned earlier, like others, I'm not wasting my time re-building at least until I'm happy that I have filled the gaps in my understanding of this contraption. However, there are plenty of circuit schematics available for the push-pull PWM which you can use as developing your circuit build skills. I've not yet found a suitable commercially built oscillator, despite searching the internet a few times. I would suggest that if you do decide to DIY, then incorporate the clamping circuitry suggested by Verpies, otherwise you could end up with more of an electric heater than an efficient oscillator!

[John.K1]

For those, who is interested as the Tesla coil is the part of this design, you might find this calculator handy  http://www.classictesla.com/java/javatc/javatc.html 

[Dog-One]

I'm unsure about the need for a really thick earth wire of 25mm sq as has been quoted on a couple of schematics. Can someone please explain the technical reason for this.

Probably not a technical explanation, but here goes...

Imagine a spring, a large heavy benchtop vice and a pair of pliers.  If you hold the spring near the middle with the pliers and tap one end, the spring will vibrate similar to a tuning fork with both ends having the highest amplitude and the middle having none or nearly no vibration.  Now if you hold the spring at one end with the pliers and tap the other end, the spring will again resonate, but at a lower frequency and most of the vibration will be at the open end.  The end held with the pliers will too vibrate, but not nearly so much due to the additional mass in contact with that end of the spring.  At some point not far from the held end, the vibration will be nearly undetectable.  Lastly, if you repeat this holding the spring at one end with the large bench vice, the frequency should again lower slightly and there should be no vibration at the end held by the vice.

My thinking is the above analogy translates pretty close to the behavior of the grenade coil, where the ground becomes the mass attached to the spring.  The more firm the ground, the lower the frequency.  The idea being that a heavy ground cable is the equivalent of a solid bench vice.

Granted, I'm sketchy as how this concept induces excess energy to enter the system, but I do think it describes the behavior of the grenade coil at its natural resonance.  Once you add a capacitor to this coil and begin exciting it at much lower frequencies, I'm inclined to think the coil itself still behaves the same way even though now it has become part of a larger circuit.  Those natural resonant frequencies are still integral to the coil regardless of what the coil is connected to.  Here's where I think the Tesla coil comes into play.  It's frequency matches or is a harmonic of the natural resonant frequency of the grenade coil.  When the Tesla coil is excited/activated, the grenade coil begins to resonant via sympathetic vibration.  So now you have this mixing of high and low frequencies riding on the grenade coil.  At certain points on this waveform you should see peak amplitudes that are additive.  If driven to a load, this electrical power cannot have a Lenz Law effect on both sources, only one, because the high frequency source is merely sympathetic and will not effect the Tesla coil that induced its excitation.  Recall the singer and wine glass--the vibrating glass has zero effect on the singer's voice, however the opposite is not true.

Call me crazy, but I can see a glimmer of hope there is something to this gizmo.

[NickZ]

  Hoppy:
  After 2770 posts, you think that you are not wasting time. 
  Wasting time is not what I'm doing, as time costs me nothing. Therefor, I'm wasting nothing. My time is free.

   A circuit that is full of resistors, diodes, capacitors, fets, choke coils, inductors, that are to be used as the adjustable frequency and control PWM, etz... are the "heaters". OR not?

   Concerning the thick ground cable with many strands.  If I connect my device to my thick 37.5 meter ground line that goes into my water well, I get an increase in output, on the scope, and at the bulbs. If I connect my device to a 5 meter earth ground line, I get no additional increase in output.  But, the thing is, that no one wants to have to buy a thick welding cable, to use as the grounding line, because it's expensive, at 37.5 or 40 meters long.